Is there a bearing maker recommended for axle seal rplmt

[CocoLoco74]

so was excited to get new breaks, rotors and suspension, was bummed to find that I think, not only are my dust shields deteriorating, but may have to replace drivers side rear seal. Found liquid over e brake when replacing them. Is there a guide on how to do this, does the universe have to line up at the same time you insert the shaft into the axle?

 

[TerryD]

Year, trim and transmission will help ID your axle.

You'll need a press either way.

 

[JeffPro4x]

Sometimes its easier, but more expensive to swap in a new, loaded shaft.

 

[TerryD]

Sometimes its easier, but more expensive to swap in a new, loaded shaft.

I had to on my M226, the flange was bent. $500 and I did the work. Best price I could find.

 

[JeffPro4x]

Yeah. I think mine were around $445 each

 

[jsexton]

dana/spicer for the collar/bearing retainer, timken bearings (skf and koyo are good too), and national seals if you can. It's not too bad to do it yourself. It's also not very hard to get the splines to line up.

Not sure which rear axle you have, but there is a nice writeup on thx for the m226. I believe the c200k is very similar. I found it easier to slot the bearing retainer like you do the race rather than drill it like he did in the writeup. If i remember correctly, i drove the bearing and bearing keeper back on with a 24" long 1.5" schedule 40 black iron pipe with a cap on the end. You definitely want to heat the keeper before putting it on - that thing is tight.

https://www.thenewx.org/threads/how-to-m226-axle-seal-replacement.269492/

 

[jsexton]

oh, do one side at a time and lift that end of the axle tube up higher so diff fluid doesn't run out. Also, you don't really need a slide hammer. I used a pry bar to get it out easily. I've also seen people use an old rotor as the slide hammer. pry bar method was easy though, just don't pry on the tone ring. I was able to slide the axle out without taking the abs sensor off - do this at your own risk though.

 

[Zack.]

Old rotor as slide hammer did the trick for me. I just replaced with a loaded shaft rather than trying to deal with getting a new bearing on there.

 

[Prime]

If you want to replace just the seal, you need a dremel to cut the old inner race off the axle shaft, new outer axle bearing, new axle seal, and a shop press to put it all back together.

I've done both sides. Definitely cheaper than replacing the entire loaded axle. But way more work.

 

[CocoLoco74]

Thank you guys, you are the best, my x is a 09 4x4 S model. Hen mention in the stand alone pipe that is to drive new items onto shaft? In lue of press correct?

 

[CocoLoco74]

Automatic unfortunately

 

[jsexton]

Thank you guys, you are the best, my x is a 09 4x4 S model. Hen mention in the stand alone pipe that is to drive new items onto shaft? In lue of press correct?

I did not use a press when I did the one in my m226.

 

[Tryggr]

I am in the middle of replacing my axle seals after finding both seals leaking when I was working on my brakes. 06 4x4 s model, 6 speed. I purchased fully loaded replacement axles, to install if I can ever get the old axles out. I have tried a slide hammer, a pry bar and using the old disk as a slide hammer, it will not budge. I have driven the retainer bolts out to make sure they weren't hanging up. I am currently working on the driver side, was planning on doing one side at a time and got stuck. Is there any trick that I haven't found or something I missed?

 

[TerryD]

Sometimes they really suck.

Spray them with PB blaster and just keep whaling on them.

I had to pull one from my Titan axle with chisels between the housing flange and the retainer plate to get it out.

Since you have the whole shaft to go back, you don't have to worry about messing up the tone ring or retainer plate. Just don't damage the caliper mounting plate. Those are EXPENSIVE.

 

[Tryggr]

Sometimes they really suck.

Spray them with PB blaster and just keep whaling on them.

I had to pull one from my Titan axle with chisels between the housing flange and the retainer plate to get it out.

Since you have the whole shaft to go back, you don't have to worry about messing up the tone ring or retainer plate. Just don't damage the caliper mounting plate. Those are EXPENSIVE.

Thanks