Installed Ironman lift yesterday, got a vibration now

C3NK0

Bought an X
Supporting Member
Location
Rockville, MD
I will verify @C3NK0 on the addition of the rear bumper tire carrier to the improved ride quality. VERY noticeable + difference. And still minimal sway without the sway bar. Unless I’m just used to it for being bar-less for 5 years now. I highly recommend the maXTERRA Rear bumper/tire carrier if you don’t want to remove leaves and sacrifice load capacity of those springs. Plus, you only lose 1/4 - 1/2” of lift. Not a bad trade off (sporting the shiat-eating grin). How’s that for a sales pitch?
Brilliant sales pitch! I’m gonna order another one
 

Maxxpags

Bought an X
Here’s where I’m at now, 2 degree shims installed (correct direction), had a front end alignment set up for Saturday but think I’m going to hold off at the moment because I seriously think the alignment improved since the lift was installed. I just thought of something driving home from work today, while driving at 30 mph where vibration is most noticeable I popped into neutral & smooth as silk… definitely in the drivetrain, should I go with 3 degree shims? 4 degree shims? If the universal joint was wearing out I might’ve had something before lift, not necessarily but what’s next bigger shims? I will do the alignment, just want this vibration solved right now.
 

C3NK0

Bought an X
Supporting Member
Location
Rockville, MD
I was in the same boat when @ffxcores said lets replace the ujoint. I was like yo it was OK before, his reasoning was that maybe ujoint is so old, can’t handle the new angle. Just so you know I am running 4 degree shims and I was still having drive line vibrations until ujoints replaced.

Ujoint is a much easier job then new shims and new ubolts. I went through 3 set of ubolts just to change shims.

Now I recall even nisstec suggested ujoint when ı was ordering their shims, ı was like nah I need bigger shims haha
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
I was in the same boat when @ffxcores said lets replace the ujoint. I was like yo it was OK before, his reasoning was that maybe ujoint is so old, can’t handle the new angle. Just so you know I am running 4 degree shims and I was still having drive line vibrations until ujoints replaced.

Ujoint is a much easier job then new shims and new ubolts. I went through 3 set of ubolts just to change shims.

Now I recall even nisstec suggested ujoint when ı was ordering their shims, ı was like nah I need bigger shims haha
I can’t take credit for the idea but I don’t remember where I read it. Someone had posted that the ujoint can wear relative to the original angle, and that the ujoint is actually the source of the vibration. The theory was that you could replace the ujoint instead of adding shims. I don’t know how true it is but wanted to test it out since it was cheap and easy to do.
 

Maxxpags

Bought an X
Ya, I do have like 180,000 miles on it & absolutely dreading the idea of doing another shim. I’ll have to agree with the idea that after that many miles it is definitely worn in the factory position + the fact I’ve been driving with broken leaf springs for 3 years. I’ll give it a shot, Tanx again
 

Maxxpags

Bought an X
The plot thickens… universal joints are solid, no play whatsoever, front driveshaft & rear. Now keeping that in mind… if I grab the rear driveshaft & try & turn it, it’s rock solid. When I do the same to the front driveshaft I get about a 1/4” play while trying to turn it. I put it in 4 high drove it (same vibration), & parked it in 4 high, still had the little bit of play. Could this be the source???
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
The plot thickens… universal joints are solid, no play whatsoever, front driveshaft & rear. Now keeping that in mind… if I grab the rear driveshaft & try & turn it, it’s rock solid. When I do the same to the front driveshaft I get about a 1/4” play while trying to turn it. I put it in 4 high drove it (same vibration), & parked it in 4 high, still had the little bit of play. Could this be the source???
Your fronts do spin but I don’t think they would be the source of the vibration. For what it’s worth, none of mine had any play but the fronts definitely had weep stains and all of them had at least one cap with lots of rust and gunk inside. I think the play comes in when it’s completely shot, but the vibration comes from the angle slightly changing and other than noticing it the ujoint is still working as intended.
 

Maxxpags

Bought an X
After talking to a few buddies, they think the front shaft with a little “rotation” is normal, the rear being tight is not so normal. WTF do I do now? Thought for sure “dead balls” it was the u joints but noooo! I thinking the rear shaft pinion is still the issue. Just not sure where to take this to resolve my issue
 

Maxxpags

Bought an X
Well, here’s my plan for today… due to the fact that everything with the rear driveshaft is pretty solid & within 2 degrees of angle & the front driveshaft has that little bit of a wiggle (not at the u joints, the shaft itself), I’m going to remove the front driveshaft and test drive it & see if the vibration is still there or gone. If it’s gone I’ll replace the u joints & reinstall and see what happens. If it’s still there I’ll drop the rear driveshaft & replace those u joints. Hopefully it’ll be the front driveshaft that is culprit.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
The plot thickens… universal joints are solid, no play whatsoever, front driveshaft & rear. Now keeping that in mind… if I grab the rear driveshaft & try & turn it, it’s rock solid. When I do the same to the front driveshaft I get about a 1/4” play while trying to turn it. I put it in 4 high drove it (same vibration), & parked it in 4 high, still had the little bit of play. Could this be the source???
Are you checking the rear ones with the vehicle in neutral or the rear tires off the ground?
 

Maxxpags

Bought an X
Checking front & rear with it in park & on the ground, 0 play anywhere in the rear, got the 1/4” wobble in the front driveshaft (not at the u joints… the whole shaft including the yoke… could be yoke splines???? That’s where my brain is at now. Heading over to my friends garage right now because it on & off rain here today
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
You need to take the stress off the rear shaft to accurately check the joints. Scotch the front tires and raise the rear tires off the ground, then check the rear shaft. Preferably with the transmission in neutral.
 

Maxxpags

Bought an X
I believe I’ve figured out the issue… thank you whoever it was that suggested loading the back up with weight. I loaded the cargo area up with close to 450 lbs. of 45 lb. Weightlifting steel plates, took it for a ride… just about eliminated the vibration. I think another 50-100 lbs would have done the job. I knew from the start that the heavy spring pack’s were over kill but Ironman didn’t give me the option of medium or light duty spring packs. Never thought it would cause the vibration but shiat that’s it… taking the X to a spring shop with the information I have & have them remove what springs are required to get me good. I figured getting the HD spring pack might come in handy in the future. Thanks for the information & support…. Love fourm’s
 
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