Forester1949
Test Drive
- Location
- Gehring nebraska
3.3l
It started Nov of last year. Was idling in front of a friends it was cold but not real cold maybe 45 and drizzling rain. About 3 or 4 minutes idling my engine started to lower rpm and just died. I didnt go back and try it right away. About 30 min later I crank it and it wouldnt start. Nothing not even a whimper.
So i get it to a place i can look at it and i pulled the cap cranked the motor and the dizzy wasnt getting dizzy it was just sitting there. So i pulled it, inspected it and it was fine no bearing seized or any extra play so i pulled the front of the motor off and sure enough broken belt but looking at it coolant had been leaking out of that freakin pain in the tuckuss bypass elbow hose just a drip once in a while. Never reached the ground though. So the coolant deteriorated the belt. I rebuilt the motor about 17,000 miles ago. So I was wondering why the belt broke. And there we have our answer coolant made the belt crack prematurely and it broke this the motor quit running. Oh if I were in some dream land maybe but no did the belt and same same cranks and barely fires. Like it's running on 3 cylinders. Runs rough as 60 grit then slowly sputters to a final chug.
So fuel pump, yes, no. Still doing exactly the same thing. I had done the fuel filter a month prior . So I do some more reading and figure out it has to be the camshaft pos sensor new dizzy yes, no. Still it remains the same. Saw that maybe the dizzy is bad or incompatible so I go through a process to get a new one in exchange and yes, no. Still exactly the same. Ohms tested every sensor and back probes every one I could. Took the front of the motor off again to check timing belt. Took it off and lined up all three marks. New water pump and timing mark is almost non existent but I'm pretty sure it's on the money.
I wonder would 1 tooth on the crankshaft make it not run?
There is so much more to this but I guess maybe I should pull out a timing light?
1 tooth on the crankshaft timing belt gear? Enough to make it not run except for some 60 grit and a final grasp of air.
I did psi test on all 6 cylinders and got 155 160 on all 6 cylinders.
Has spark az best as I could tell by myself looking through the windshield while cranking the key. Saw spark at any rate from the plug. Has fuel at fuel rail new fuel pressure regulator new cap new rotor used programmed to my vin ECM checked every relay one at a time 180 off on dizzy nope.
I'm lost.
It started Nov of last year. Was idling in front of a friends it was cold but not real cold maybe 45 and drizzling rain. About 3 or 4 minutes idling my engine started to lower rpm and just died. I didnt go back and try it right away. About 30 min later I crank it and it wouldnt start. Nothing not even a whimper.
So i get it to a place i can look at it and i pulled the cap cranked the motor and the dizzy wasnt getting dizzy it was just sitting there. So i pulled it, inspected it and it was fine no bearing seized or any extra play so i pulled the front of the motor off and sure enough broken belt but looking at it coolant had been leaking out of that freakin pain in the tuckuss bypass elbow hose just a drip once in a while. Never reached the ground though. So the coolant deteriorated the belt. I rebuilt the motor about 17,000 miles ago. So I was wondering why the belt broke. And there we have our answer coolant made the belt crack prematurely and it broke this the motor quit running. Oh if I were in some dream land maybe but no did the belt and same same cranks and barely fires. Like it's running on 3 cylinders. Runs rough as 60 grit then slowly sputters to a final chug.
So fuel pump, yes, no. Still doing exactly the same thing. I had done the fuel filter a month prior . So I do some more reading and figure out it has to be the camshaft pos sensor new dizzy yes, no. Still it remains the same. Saw that maybe the dizzy is bad or incompatible so I go through a process to get a new one in exchange and yes, no. Still exactly the same. Ohms tested every sensor and back probes every one I could. Took the front of the motor off again to check timing belt. Took it off and lined up all three marks. New water pump and timing mark is almost non existent but I'm pretty sure it's on the money.
I wonder would 1 tooth on the crankshaft make it not run?
There is so much more to this but I guess maybe I should pull out a timing light?
1 tooth on the crankshaft timing belt gear? Enough to make it not run except for some 60 grit and a final grasp of air.
I did psi test on all 6 cylinders and got 155 160 on all 6 cylinders.
Has spark az best as I could tell by myself looking through the windshield while cranking the key. Saw spark at any rate from the plug. Has fuel at fuel rail new fuel pressure regulator new cap new rotor used programmed to my vin ECM checked every relay one at a time 180 off on dizzy nope.
I'm lost.