How To: Replace Plastic Tees in Heater Lines

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
We all have these two plastic pieces in our heater hoses that decay and eventually fail in one way or another. I'm not a fan of proprietary pieces like this that can leave you stranded.

First off, the tee in the line closest to the IPDM. This is basically a place holder for a fitting that came on Pathfinders with rear heat. On those vehicles, there is another pipe exiting the bottom of the tee that went to the rear heater. Why the felt the need to have it on the Xterra I'm not sure. This piece is easy to eliminate, you simply remove it and attach the heater hose directly to the heater core. I didn't bother draining the system to change this piece and I probably lost less than a couple cups of antifreeze doing it.

OE tee:

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Hose directly on heater core:

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You can see here that the plastic clamp holding the short section of hose on mine had broken and it was just a matter of time before it blew off on me.

Next we have to deal with the other plastic tee in the system. This is a little more tricky and requires a few pieces to be purchased.

OE piece:

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You'll need to get a PEX 1" x 3/4" x 1" tee. Sharkbite part number UC418LF.
I also bought a Dayco 80416 premolded 90* 3/4" hose. This hose is quite a bit longer than you need but gives you plenty to make the jumper from the tee to the heater core as well as some spare hose for the tool box. I'm sure they make a shorter one, but this was what my local AutoZone had in stock.

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For this you'll want to drain your cooling system. My antifreeze was due to be changed so I just did it all at once here.

Draining is easy, remove any skids or fairings in your way and using a large phillips head screwdriver, remove the drain on the bottom of the passenger side of the radiator.

Drain plug

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With the system drained, take the pipe that runs along the firewall behind the engine loose. This is two 10mm nuts. Be careful not to loose the sleeves that are in the bushings in the mounts. One of mine kept falling out and rattling down through the engine compartment.

You can see them here:

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With the nuts off and the pipe loose, take the hose off the drivers side end of the pipe. I found it helpful to pull it forward off the mounts to access the clamp with pliers.

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Now that the drivers side hose off, the pipe will be loose and make it easier to remove the hoses on the passenger side. You may have to split the hose going onto the heater core tube to make it easier to get off. I found that a light twist with a pair of channellocks really helps to free it up after you get the clamps off.

The pipe can then be removed from the vehicle. Make sure to turn it up over your drain pan to remove any residual coolant from it.

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Next cut the tee off the pipe just past the first bend.

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TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
I took a flaring tool for 3/4" tubing and put a little bit of a bubble on the end of the tube to help retain the hose under pressure. Some have done without this but I feel a lot better about having it here.

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It's now time to reinstall the pipe behind the block. Don't forget to hook up the hose on the drivers side before securing the pipe with the nuts. Once that's done, cut a section of your hose about 5" long or as long as you feel like you need so that the pipe behind the block is pointing toward the tee. Then install the hose onto the heater core fitting and the tee into the hose.

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Trim your 90* hose so that there's enough hose left on the short end of it to fit up over the tee's lower fitting and then hold it in place to determine how long it needs to be to fit up on the pipe behind the engine and have room for a clamp.

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Also, don't forget to check that you hooked up the hose on the driver's side again.

To fill it, I drove the front tires up on stands and slowly poured coolant into the radiator till it ran out of the top fitting on the tee. Then with some petroleum jelly on the fitting, install the hose that goes to the degassing bottle.

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Finish filling the radiator with coolant and replace the cap. Then fill the degassing bottle all the way up. I took mine on a drive and then allowed it to cool off and refilled the degassing bottle. Some people have reported issues with cooling after this and recommend you get a vacuum rig to help with filling the cooling system again as well.

While the engine was cooling off, for no other reason than personal curiosity, I sawed the OE tee into pieces just to see what it was made of. It's simply a hollow plastic piece. I managed to snap the top fitting off easily with just my fingers so it was also a ticking time bomb under my hood.

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TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Genius. Definitely something I didn't know that needed watching.

Thanks! Just the execution here is mine, the use of the PEX tee was someone else's. I was in auto parts for several years so I knew those 90° hoses were usually stocked.

I hate the thoughts of having to get that proprietary piece way out in the woods. This way I should be able to patch it well enough to get off the trail is something busts.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Mine isn't actually a double flare kit. It's a $30 refrigeration flare and swage kit. It took a bit of creativity and a file to get the proper shape.
 

Brunnie

Bumpers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Colorado Springs
Mine isn't actually a double flare kit. It's a $30 refrigeration flare and swage kit. It took a bit of creativity and a file to get the proper shape.

Hmmmmm...... I've got one that was my dad's but it still only goes to 5/8. Might have to get a bit creative. :rolleyes:
 
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