Aug 6, 2016
Return line from the cooler?
I've also thought about adding two, one right before and right after the cooler. So in theory you have readings at the warmest and coolest. Do you already have a sensor picked out?
Hope this isn't really a threadjack haha it's still fairly pertinent to the topic
I was gonna just use the Glowshift stuff to keep my guages all the same. I thought about having 2, but really the oil going back into the trans is what you would want to be worried about. If it gets too hot you would know right away.
Is this the fitting you'd need?
Actually, I think that might work.
Mr Rat <- I like saying that lol
I think these radiators are 2 core and not 3 core. Or atleast that's what I'm reading on the interwebs. I have been following your progress with this mod. I agree with you that the real bonus of doing this mod over the SC rad is that it is all alum. No more broken plastic bits. The durability of R34 is much improved over the SC rad.
I hope you will post the trans temp gauge and how you connected it. I will be wanting to do this also. Thanks in advance.
I now see that I was not correct. The R34 rad comes as a 2 or a 3 core. Its tricky to order. But its done, I have one on the way. that is a 3 core
Good deal! Cant wait to see what you come up with
Status update. This morning when I went out to warm my X up it was -15*F once fired up I let it idle for about 15-20 minutes before I headed to work. Temps held pretty steady at 150* and that is with my heater up full blast. Everything is working how it should?!
150 seems a bit low for normal operating Temps. I thought the vg likes 190-210?
I mean.... it was -15* outside. But like I have stated my truck never really makes it above 170* even in watmer weather. I may actually have a 170* thermo come to think about it. I did change it sometime last year
All a 170 thermostat means is when the passage between the engine and the radiator opens. Until the coolant in the engine side reaches that temperature, It's a closed loop never hitting the radiator.
sent from a heretic phone via wild ferrets
fully understand that, but it would explain why I never really get above 170*
Have you installed a trans temp gauge yet?
I havent. Other things going on currently lol
We its done an R-34 rad. install with trans cooler. This mod is pretty straight forward, thank you Mr. Rat!
I don't know why my pictures are not down loading correctly.
how are you hosting them?
Right now I'm up loading to XN, I also have them on google photo's. Prime is on it he say that within a couple of days he should beable to correct the issue. Who do you host your pictures with?
If your wondering what happened at the spring fling lets just say I have a new motor on a stand that I'm in the process of overhauling. No it wasn't the rad or the cooler that was the problem. It was however my stupidity of trying to drive thru 3ft of water 4 different time. Dam I was going to make it you hear me.
These are the pictures of my R-34
Glad to see it wasnt the rad that let go, it will be interesting to see how the new motor handles the R34
Little GoneMOAB Rad performance update. Throughout the week it was high 80s with some slight breeze. With the slow and barely moving pace and very little airflow I was seeing 200* fairly often. I was able to somewhat control my temps and bring them closer to 180* I will take that as a win considering how warm it was and how little airflow I was getting. I am currently contemplating putting a small puller fan behind the rad with an on/off switch as well as a JK hood louver panel to allow the hot air to rise. We will see where things progress and I will continue to chase a constant cold running rig
I've got a OEM 1st gen pusher fan in my garage if you want to play with it. Mounts in front of the condenser core on the grill side of the radiator support.
would it work to rotate the pusher and turn it into a puller? I dont want to add another pusher up front as I dont think it would push enough air through the condenser and oil coolers. I so however have a good 4-5" of space between the radiator and the clutch fan so maybe I could fit a slim 12" puller fan and a hood louver to help move air
Think I might have found the golden ticket to get my lower coolant temps!
Am I reading that correctly? The temp on that tstat is 143°?
Typically, efficient combustion typically doesn't happen until at LEAST 160°. So are we saying that all these engines run hot and expect a 20° bump over the tstat temperature?
Im more concerned with keeping the temps closer to that 160* mark while on the trail. Usually for myself just commuting I never reach full temp inless Im doing some running around in town. I feel like even at 143* I will still jump up quite a bit. Only way to know is to try it.
Working on a fan shroud design. Hopefully have a working prototype next week.
Thanks for this. I'm a fan of all aluminum radiators and was a little pissed when I couldn't find one for the xterra.
For the shroud, I'm curious what material you end up using.
Regarding that nismo thermostat - that's way cold. It's designed for use on race engines where you want them to just flow as soon as they start to warm up. You want something along the lines of a 80c thermostat. I need to get a stock one and measure it, I made a custom thermostat housing for my BMW and the Tstats for that setup are only about $20 each in a variety of flavors/temps.
Are Nissan skyline radiators interchangeable with first gen Nissan Xterra? Found some reasonably priced all aluminum units on !Fleabay for 90.00$ and they are R33/R34 but for a manual trans and even tho mine is an auto, I am running and external only cooler as a mechanic told me that the factory radiator cooler could leak thus mixing trans fluid with coolant. I am located in Mojave Valley, AZ and hitting the trails with a/c on is non optional.
The thing your mechanic told about coolant and transmission fluid mixing is true for 2nd gen but you don't have to worry about with 1st gen (2000 - 2004).
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