How To: Fuse Block Installation

[dhyde79]

Ok, someone said they wanted a how to on installing fuse blocks on a second gen so, here it is.

I installed a pair of fuse blocks today, took a few pics for all of ya, so, here ya go.

As a none, each "part used" is a link to where I purchased it if I purchased it online.

Parts Used:
6 circuit blue sea box
6 circuit ATC fuse box
6 terminal distribution block
female blade/spade connectors
butt connectors
12ga wire
18ga wire
male "fork" spade connectors
electrical tape
zip ties
heat shrink tubing
wiring loom
(if I forgot any parts, I apologize)

What I did:
the blue sea box is under the hood, while the distro block and other fuse block are in the cabin, behind the glove boxes on the passenger side. The blue sea is fused and run direct to the battery on both the positive and negative sides. One of the fused circuits on the blue sea is run into the vehicle (12ga) to the distro block. The second fuse block is simply a series of fuses, I've run the hot side of all of the fuses off of the hot side of the distro block, I cheated and ran the CB direct to the distro block as well since it comes direct from the battery, and shouldn't have the issue with the ground noise to be picked up through the ground through the body that it had previously.

Now for the pics...

Initial Survey of the engine compartment:

I put the box around in a few places trying to find a spot to make it fit, and decided to put it ontop of the stock fuse box, so, I pulled the lid, and looked very closely at the INSIDE to find a spot that I can put screws through without getting into the fuse diagram, turns out that the front drivers side corner is the perfect place to start it.
mounting the bluesea box

with the lid put back after attaching the bluesea box.

The hot I'd previously run for my hella's in the grille, but, it was all 10GA wiring and had a 30A fuse inline so I snipped the old connector off, put a new connector on it, and ran it to the bluesea, and ran a 12GA line to the ground. I made a point of zip tying it all so everything stays nice and tight so that it's not flopping about and getting into things.

they were turned to tuck toward the body, and the connectors used were waterproof as well.

re-ran the wiring for my hellas....now it's connected through the bluesea

now it became time to pull the passenger side of the dash apart to figure out where I'm gonna get the other parts to fit.

well, the perfect spot for the fuse block happened to be behind the top glovebox, tucked to the side by the AC vent.

6 lines running to the distro block

one line run for the switch for the hellas

distro block tucked against one of the rails supporting the dash, out of the way of the gloveboxes, CB's already wired direct to the distro block.

overview of the spot where the distro block went

drivers side under the dash where the wiring came through (before I ran the 12ga wiring through)

12ga run through with wiring loom covering the wiring

loom runs behind the lower dash trim (is zip tied to the support brace right behind there) then behind the lower part of the center console

wiring hooked to the distro block.

fuse block tucked up and off to the side

distro block ziptied off to the side so that it can't move.

ok, so, it's in, it works nicely, the only thing I realized after I buttoned everything up that I left hot terminals exposed, so, I've got to take it all back out and slip my other terminals back onto it so it stays safe in there amongst the other wires....the only thing that I'll be running through that internal fuse block is internal accessories, or, the switches for the lights that're coming.

(as a side thought, I'm now hunting down one of the CB/FM adapters, the little box that lets you use your FM antenna as a CB antenna) since I have seen that it's VERY easy to install in this vehicle)

 

[Macland]

Great write up man!

 

[dhyde79]

thx.....hopefully it does some others some good.

I'll probably run a 12ga line from the distro block up onto the roof and stash another bluesea up there where the stock lights are on the roof to run a power source for for all of the relays that'll be running the lights up there....I'll have to get 3 18ga lines through as well to run the switch side of the relays....but, I'd say it's totally worth the added cost to do it right....doing it that way I don't have to worry about something going bad down the road.

 

[TN4x4Xterra]

Awesome write up! I think I may follow this...

 

[dhyde79]

the one thing I would recommend is this. instead of using the distro block, use two of *THESE*. one with a hot going to it and the other with the ground coming through to it. the one thing to point out obviously, the way I've got it wired, EVERYTHING will be full time hot, which means if you forget to turn something off, I hope you have a set of jumper cables or a jump start box. I did it intentionally, I don't like having to leave my keys in the vehicle to be able to have lights kicking...

 

[CISO1969]

Im confused. Why so many fuse blocks? Most write ups with that blue sea block show it being used solo and also relays for lights etc.

I plan to do this and have had the blue sea block for a while, just need some guidance.

Also is you negative from blue sea block ran back to the battery?

CISO

 

[dhyde79]

Ciso, great question. I ran it this way because I don't like having to punch too many wires through the firewall, so, the bs under the hood covers any external wiring needs, a pair of wires go through to the distribution block with a positive only fuse block for the inside wiring mods, and I'll be adding a bluesea on the roof for my roof lights.

When I add rock lights I'll have a total of 4 wires passing through the firewall and 5 running up through an A pillar to the roof, where doing it with one block would have been a truly obscene number of wires running in the pillar and running through great firewall. The way around that obviously is to ground to wherever and run one hot to a distribution block and then you have to run one hot and a switch lead for each pair of lights, which only eliminates running the ground back down so the lights are grounded back to the battery instead of worrying about ground quality.

The simple answer was scale, I knew I had a lot of wiring I'd be doing, so, I went big so I didn't have to re-do anything later.

 

[TN4x4Xterra]

Would it have been easier to run a bluesea in the engine compartment, then have another bluesea for the cabin? Use a red/black wire from the BS in the engine bay and write and use it as a power port for the interior BS with a in-line fuse between those two BS? After rereading all this, it just sounds a bit complicated/complex?

 

[Oz_X]

Nice write up! I agree, great place to mount it:

 

[dhyde79]

Would it have been easier to run a bluesea in the engine compartment, then have another bluesea for the cabin? Use a red/black wire from the BS in the engine bay and write and use it as a power port for the interior BS with a in-line fuse between those two BS? After rereading all this, it just sounds a bit complicated/complex?

Sure, the way I did it is so if I want my CB only live on acc power or rock lights or anything like that, I can easily with minimal wiring...a blue sea box is only one power source, which is how I'm wired right now, when I put my rear roof lights on they'll need a bit of creative wiring, as they'll be tied to two different switches (one breaking. The power from reverse lights and one tied to an always hot)

If you only need one power source, by all means use a second blue sea, on a 2nd Gen you'll probably have to put it on the driver's side or cut it into your glove box or upper compartment to make it fit. I used what I did because it fit my specific needs and goals. Feel free to adapt to your personal needs. My internal fuse block is separate circuits without a common power source, which is why I used it instead of a bluesea inside.

 

[CISO1969]

My head is swimming. I need to read thes again and work out a diagram for myself on paper too (highly recommended to always do a diagram)

I have a first gen too--so my placement may be more or less the same depends on whether I want it on top of fuse box or the firewall or insde fender.

I also have a winch but my gut tells me that one should be direct to the battery

Thanks guys,

Lee

 

[TN4x4Xterra]

My head is swimming. I need to read thes again and work out a diagram for myself on paper too (highly recommended to always do a diagram)

I have a first gen too--so my placement may be more or less the same depends on whether I want it on top of fuse box or the firewall or insde fender.

I also have a winch but my gut tells me that one should be direct to the battery

Thanks guys,

Lee

Winches should ALWAYS be connected to the battery.

 

[dhyde79]

Yep, winch is always direct to battery, the bluesea maxes out at 30A per circuit, 60A for the whole block....I have a 30A inline fuse between the battery and the box and 15A fuses in each circuit...

 

[Diadaga]

My brain hurts now, not looking forward to wiring up my lights and goodies. I'm not very electrically inclined so I'm sure I'll be relying on one you smart people for some help with this.

 

[dhyde79]

no problem....Let me know what you're wiring, how you want to wire it, and I'll get you a schematic that you should be able to follow easily, with part numbers even

 

[Diadaga]

no problem....Let me know what you're wiring, how you want to wire it, and I'll get you a schematic that you should be able to follow easily, with part numbers even

Awesome I will definitely hit you up once I start ordering the components that will need to be wired. Right now everything is still in the planning stages.

 

[dhyde79]

Awesome I will definitely hit you up once I start ordering the components that will need to be wired. Right now everything is still in the planning stages.

now's when you actually need to do the schematic, so that you can work out wire lengths, relay placement, fuse requirements, and where you're going to stash all of your wiring.

what all are you looking at needing to wire up, and do you want to pass as few wires through the firewall as possible or do you really care?

 

[Diadaga]

Right now it is looking like its going to be 4 front roof lights, up to 4 rear roof lights, cb radio, ham radio, and anything else that comes along. I am planning on taking out a large portion of the center console and installing one like they use in emergency services vehicles. That will leave a nice area for wiring storage. I would rather go with less wires through the firewall.

 

[dhyde79]

ok, so, lets do this step by step. 4 front roof lights, up to 4 rear roof lights, cb radio, ham radio.

Forward Roof Lights:
do you want them all powered by one switch, or do you want to be able to turn on outer/inner separately?

Rear Roof Lights:
same as front, except, there's an added kicker. one switch, or two (inner/outer), and, regardless of which you answer, do you want any of them to come on when the vehicle is in reverse? if yes, do you want it to be only inner/outer, and do you want an on/off switch so you can turn that function on only when offroading?

CB:
do you want an external switch to disable power to it completely, or are you happy with the on/off switch on the CB itself?

HAM:
do you want an external switch to disable power to it completely, or are you happy with the on/off switch on the HAM itself?


The only other thing to decide before the point arises, is to decide where you're running your power wires through to the roof, and how you want to run those, as there are a few ways to make it all happen.

 

[Diadaga]

Forward Roof Lights:
Inner and outer separately

Rear Roof Lights:
Inner and outer separately, inner lights hooked up to brake lights, outer lights come on in reverse and also be able to turn on with switch

CB and Ham:
Fine with on/off switch on radios

Currently can't look at my X to figure out where the best spot to run power through the roof is, completely open to suggestions.

Thanks again for all the help man. (You'll probably get thanked alot more as we work on this.)


Had a brain fart and completely forgot about the 2 or 3 lights that will be going on the front bumper. Those would just operate on a switch.

 

[dhyde79]

ok, I'll start sketching you a diagram shortly.

Forward Roof Lights:
Inner and outer separately.

easily done.

Rear Roof Lights:
Inner and outer separately, inner lights hooked up to brake lights, outer lights come on in reverse and also be able to turn on with switch

easily done as well, but, unless the "inner lights" will be red, you do ***NOT*** want them set up to come on with your brake lights, that'd be illegal in most every state, not to mention annoying as hell on the trail for anyone following you, especially if they aren't aimed almost straight down. if you're going to put 4 back there, make sure they're not exceedingly bright, or, not pointed straight back....test your aim by having someone park about 2 car lengths behind you after they're installed but before they're tightened down so you can adjust point of aim, you'll want em set up so that you aren't blinding the person in that car...aimed lower or to the sides = good, even aimed to the side you'll have plenty of light behind you for backing up. I'm doing 3 lights rear facing, outer two will be flood/fog beam, center will be a spotlight and point of aim being at 1.5 car lengths behind me. all three will be on the one switch that enables/disables with reverse lights.

CB and Ham:
Fine with on/off switch on radios

easy to do, we'll run a pair of power lines through for a bluesea or something similar so that you can run the fuse block inside the vehicle easily.

Currently can't look at my X to figure out where the best spot to run power through the roof is, completely open to suggestions.

Thanks again for all the help man. (You'll probably get thanked alot more as we work on this.)

well, I haven't gotten onto my roof to look at wiring it yet, I know that it *should* be a matter of pulling my headliner and my wetbox/airdam off and finding where my stock lights are already run through and running a few wires through there.

Had a brain fart and completely forgot about the 2 or 3 lights that will be going on the front bumper. Those would just operate on a switch.

those are the easiest, other than the fact that we'll have to run an extra wire through the firewall for the switch for that one (I have the same issue already)


like I said above, I'll start sketching for ya in a bit, you need to start thinking where and what kind of switches you'll be after for these. one creative spot I'm about to do is I'm finding an old school "floor switch" like pickups used to have for their high-beams and I'm going to split it so that either the toggle or the floor switch will turn on my hellas in my grille, and, it's going to be cake to wire in.

 

[Macland]

I loved how my old truck had the high beams turn on by stepping on the switch!

 

[Diadaga]

Yeah the rear middle lights are going to bed red. Right now the plan is using an EMS style console in the center and setting up the switches in it.

 

[mudchet]

Hi guys, is there a rule that tells you what gauge wire to run if you know the max amps and the wire length?
Also, what about alternators? I have a stock gen 2 alternator. What amps does that thing generate? I am planning to install an inverter and want to make sure that everything is spec'd properly from alternator all the way to the inverter. I'm thinking about a 2000w inverter so I can run power tools.

Thanks.

 

[Mirage]

Hi guys, is there a rule that tells you what gauge wire to run if you know the max amps and the wire length?
Also, what about alternators? I have a stock gen 2 alternator. What amps does that thing generate? I am planning to install an inverter and want to make sure that everything is spec'd properly from alternator all the way to the inverter. I'm thinking about a 2000w inverter so I can run power tools.

Thanks.

I've seen a couple different charts, but here is one after a quick google http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-volt-wire-gauge-amps.htm . Also to get amp draw from watts use: watts/voltage=amps

 

[mudchet]

Perfect. Thank you

 

[FaroutX]

Nice How to, look's good! I put my Bluesea on the inside and used a breaker and relay for ignition control:

 

[TN4x4Xterra]

Did you make a bracket for the circuit breaker in the engine bay?

 

[TN4x4Xterra]

Double post (delete)

 

[FaroutX]

^^^Yes! For the breaker and the relay:

I also put another fuse holder on top of the bracket that powers my stereo system: