HOW TO: 6-SPEED W/ VK56

[XB3TERRA]

This was turning into a how-to thread over at the TNX so I guess I'll transfer it over. Stand-by while I move this over and sort through all the photos.

Donor vehicle was (RIP) a 2008 Titan Pro-4x (purchased for $1500), factory locker,
VK56 (E85), 336 gear ratio with 130K miles.
My Xterra (aka XB3) is a 2010 Off Road with 6-speed (369 gear ratio).

- remove both Titan & Xterra engine harness and Xterra alternator harnesses (minus the Titan knock sensor harness) and send to Driven Desire to modify for turn key installation- $350
- using Titan ECU, purchase Uprev laptop cable for datalogging (speed density, real world driving), disable VATS, email files to tuner and program to work with Xterra using UpRev software
- notch transmission for crank position sensor
- dual in, single out muffler with resonator to prevent drone
- upgrade power steering cooler with B&M suerpcooler w/ A/N fittings

I will clean up the thread as I go so if someone wants to do the swap as well so it won't be confusing. Transparency is key. I will posts costs, pics, and the carnage.

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$PURCHASE LIST$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

PRG Titan motor/trans mounts- $278
Driven Desire VK56 to Xterra 6-speed adapter kit- $925
Up Rev data cable- $225 (Z1 Motorsports or Cajun B-pipes)
Driven Desire engine harness (merge Titan/Xterra alternator/Xterra engine)-$350~
Cajun Remote Tuning, ECU register, flash and tune- $600

EXHAUST SYSTEM
Exhaust manifold nuts (X16) -14094jg30a- $68 (Amazon)
Doug Thorley Long Tube 1 5/8 headers 2.25 collector THY-481Y-LSO-C; built to order, 4-week wait- $655 EBAY
Cajun B-pipes- $305
Magnaflow reversible 2 in/1 out 2.5" muffler- P#12265- $120 (Amazon)
2.5" Stainless exhaust clamps X2- Espeeder- $18
2.5" 2 bolt(elongated), Stainless, Exhaust Flanges X2- Stainless Bros- $40(Amazon)
OEM VK56 EXHAUST MANIFOLD GASKETS x2 (14036-7S001)- $42.36 (AMAZON)
OEM CONNECTION PIPE GASKETS x4 (20692-65J00)- $47.16 (AMAZON)
Denso Upstream O2 sensors, pair- 234-9038 - $135 (Amazon)
Vibrant Resonator

VK56 REFRESH PARTS

Dipstick O-ring- 15066-7S020-
Oil Cooler O-ring- 21304-JA11A
Thermostat- 21200-1LA1AOil
pump to oil pan o-rings- 15066-7S010, 15066-7S000, 15066-AR000 (Courtesy)
Oil pressure regulator- 15241-43U00 (^^^^$19^^^)(Courtesy)
Power steering line; pump to rack (Gates)- $58 (eBay)
Intake manifold gasket kit; comes with throttle body seal (Felpro MS96945)- $32 (Amazon)
Timing cover crankshaft seal- 13510-0Z400- $8 (Amazon)
Injector upper/lower O-rings- ES70599,ES72004- $9 (Rock Auto)
Denso Iridium Sparkplugs (flexfuel,.44gap)- Denso 3450- $81 (Rock Auto)
Gates idle pulley- 36222 - $31 (Amazon)
OEM oil pressure switch- 25240-4m40e - $24 (Amazon)
OEM VK56 REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL (122794Z001)- $28(EBAY)

COOLING SYSTEM

OFFROAD GORILLA VQ40 to VK56de aluminum radiator/silicon hoses- $504
V8 Pathfinder fan shroud- 21476-ZS20A (trim to fit)
LWR Fan Shroud- 21477-ZS20A (trim to fit)
Fan Clutch- 21082-7S00A
Water Pump- 21010-7S000
Water Pump Gasket- 21014-7S000
Heater Hose outlet- 92413-ea000- $14 (Courtesy)
Heater Hose Inlet- 92400-ea000- $12 (Courtesy)
Heater Hose Outlet- 92410-ea000- $13 (Courtesy)


TRANSMISSION PARTS

Z1 PERFORMANCE STREET FULL FACED CLUTCH/MID WEIGHT FLYWHEEL- $718 !!!!Got $100 off for BLACKFRIDAY!!! ($618)
350Z 3.5DE KOYO Release Bearing
Flexplate OEM bolts X9- 01121-0072- $16 (Courtesy Nissan)
Shifter lever boot- 32862-ea200- $12 (Courtesy Nissan)
OEM Rear output seal, Transfer case- 33140-7S110- $25 (Amazon)
Crankshaft Position Sensor (Same as VQ40D/VQ3.5DE driver cam sensor) - 23731-AL61D

Refrigeration (using Titan A/C compressor)

V8 Pathfinder Low Pressure Hose (Compressor to fire wall)- 92480-ZS21A
Filter Drier- 83255- $23 (Amazon)
R134a Refrig (no additives)
Compressor oil (have some oil to lubricate all your o-rings before assembly)
If recovering and charging yourself....Tools required...do your homework or watch YouTube
Vacuum pump
R134 Manifold Gauges w/ 1/4" hoses and low/high side QDs 1/4" shutoff valve (for vucuum pump)
RobinAir Reclaimer (if you hug trees or want to reuse your refrigerant)
Refrigerant Recovery Tank
Vacuum gauge or watch manifold gauges
Gas leak (optional for troubleshooting leaks or just use thick soap dawn soap solution)

 

[Prime]

This is one of the most exciting thread transfers for me. In a long enough time line, everything gets a v8.

 

[XB3TERRA]

I know people buy tools for one time use but I for one use them more than that. I purchased equipment based on certain features that I find convenient and aid in overall safety. This crap is all made in China so bounce around the different sites and see what kind of deal you can get. Prices have increased since the whole tariff bs. Expect it to be scratched up during shipping.

I'll update this as I review back over the process and most can be acquired from locally. You will need the normal tools (mostly metric), but the following I recommend to make things easier along with some materials:

Haynes Manual (Chilton sucks)
Fuel line removal assorted tool kit
Ratcheting wrenches
Torque wrench
Trans jack with strap
24" lift height Floor jack (if your lifted) and 2-Ton jack stands
3/8" and 1/2" swivel joints and extensions for ratchet
Red Loctite
Lucas marine lithium based grease
White Lithium grease
aluminum and copper anti-seize
2x4 wood or whatever you have lying around
rubber mallet, soft and hard faced
Race and seal driver kit
shop rags (lint free)
brake and carb cleaner
Permatex Ultra Gray
White or Green (high visual) white out markers for orientation/torque markings
pry and crowbars (trans cross member is B.I.T.C.H)
Old tire (16" preferred)
drip pan
bucket of carb cleaner (soak the oil cooler and clean misc parts)
painters tape (GREEN)
zip ties

Engine crane leveler:
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/81062/10002/-1
Reason:
-The VK has a large top end
-If installing with transmission it allows you to do minor adjustments by changing the angle to avoid the fire wall.
-Better weight distribution
Engine crane
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sxt-5218
Reason:
-rapid rise dual piston pump
-swivel hook
-rear handle for steering
Engine stand (if your going in for surgery)
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80042/10002/-1
-more stable than a three leg stand
-folds up for easier storage
-more adjustability for various engines
-the design makes easier to transfer the engine from crane to stand
Engine lift slings X2
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cws-11645/overview/
-use the above mentioned slings or tow straps if your installing w/headers bolted on (see below pics)

 

[XB3TERRA]

ENGINE REMOVAL

If you do not have the equipment to recover refrigerant I recommend you have it recovered ahead of time by a certified shop. After purchasing the recovery tank and reclaimer you could have paid less to recover the refrigerant. I have all the equipment so I didn't have to.

Before removing the engine you will need to disconenect anything connected to frame, differentials and body of the truck along with draining antifreeze and power stearing fluid. This is also where you will need the assorted plastic fuel line disconnect tool kit. A standard GM fuel disconnect line tool will not work. I didn't have the tool at the time so I rigged a couple of feeler gauges and wrestled it off. Also, you might want to spray all hardware down with PB blaster ahead of time to allow easier removal later. Leave the harness connected to the engine and trans during removal because it's easier to remove it with the engine out of the vehicle.

The transmission/transfercase crossmember is rough to get out depending on the rust. I had to walk it out one side at a time with a rubber mallet and a crowbar. You of course want to support and leave a floor jack under the transmission the whole time during cross member removal. Position the the floor jack to when you take the engine out the floor jack helps roll it during removal. Don't forget to remove the shifter lever and cap off the opening to prevent anything from falling into the trans. No need to cap off the rear output shaft of the transfer case since it doesn't leak during removal.

I pulled the engine and trasmission/transfer case as one assembly. I found it easier to remove the front wheels while leaving the front on short 2-Ton jackstands. If your truck is lifted this is helpful and allows your engine crane more lifting height. Removing engines from both vehicles had something in common, oil pan hitting the front differential during removal and catylitic converters hitting the frame. You can either remove the oil pan, which I was going to anyways on the VK, or drop the front dif (the easier way). By removing the two front bolts and loosening the rear dif bolt along with a floor jack, it allowed easier removal of the engine. I also recommend removing the front heat shields and cats because they prevent you from pulling with the trans. They hit the frame engine mounts as it comes out. The heat shield bolts will prob break and that's common.

 

[XB3TERRA]

I'm still moving photos so please be patient...

My VK56 had 140k miles so I wanted to test everything out before installation. I performed a compression check and while turning it over oil slung out of cylinder one. The valve cover seals were worn and leaking down into the chamber just like all other Nissans. Engine had been sitting for two years so I removed the oil pan which led to replacing the below pictured o-rings, rear crank engine seal and oil pressure regulator. After I cleaned out all the sludge and checked all the rods and cylinder walls, I buttoned it back up with ultra gray rtv. This is where Haynes manuls becomes usefel because it has the torque specs and sequence of all hardware mentioned.

Take notice of the rtv placement after taking the valve covers off. This is important or prepare for some oil leaks. The valve covers purchased from Nissan do not come with head matting seals but do come with spark plug seals and new PCVs. Torque all valve covers bolts to sequence as well.

While the engine is out replace anything else you don't want to fix with the engine in the car. The water pump, serpertine, idler pullies, alternator, intake/throttle body seals and thermastat are straight forward concerning replacement. Don't forget the serpentine tensioner puller is REVERSED thread. You will also notice a small coolant outlet below the thermastat. You want to cap that off because it originally went to an overflow bottle which is not needed (pictured below).

The engine oil cooler, which is built into the oil filter mount, has an o-ring behind it that is pronged to leaking. Before replacing the o-ring I recommend dunking the oil cooler into a bucket of carb cleaner. You will be amazed at what comes out especially if the last owner used conventional oil or the engine sat for a long time.

 

[XB3TERRA]

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[maillet282]

added to master list of How To's

 

[XB3TERRA]

I should have an update this weekend. Thanks to a fellow Nissan owner I should hopefully have it fully functional. I will post the results once everything is installed and clear.

 

[Prime]

Much excite!

 

[XB3TERRA]

It's finally complete. I just have to drive it around and break it in hoping it's reliable. Give me a while to piece everything together. It's been a long process.

TEST VIDEO:

EXHAUST VIDEO:

 

[jsexton]

So what in the was the problem with the clutch? I know you fought that for a long time

 

[XB3TERRA]

At this point it's not my place to say. I won't be 100% satisified until I've driven on it for a while. At the moment I'm trying fix gremlins that are preventing me from driving it at the moment. I'm sure it will be something stupid once I find it.

 

[Prime]

Keep us posted. This is relevant to my interests.

 

[XB3TERRA]

Shake down run:

 

[XB3TERRA]

I know it's been a while, but I finally got everything operating perfectly. Here's a wide open throttle video showing proof it works.

 

[Prime]

Thats ufcking awesome!