Deadpilot's Conversion from 2wd to 4x4 SAS

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
Well for those of you who arent over on thenewX I thought I'd share this build with you guys too. That way I can get more input and what not with this build.

So my plans are to convert my 2wd X to a 4x4 Soild Axle beast. From all the reading I have done I am going to go with a Dana 44 front axle and divorced transfer case and either a Dana 44 or Ford 9 Rear Axle.

The front axle I have found and looking at buying is a Dana 44 out of a 94-01 Dodge 1500 4x4. The only down fall is its a low pinion and I wanted to have a high pinion but then again I am not gonna crazy rock crawling so I think this will work for what I am doing. This axle doesnt have the axle shafts but those would have been replaced anyways and the rotors are gone but that is fine by me. Best part of the deal it is only $80.

I am still looking for a divorced tc because that is gonna be eaisest to hook up to the X and the rear axle will be found sooner or later.

I plan on running a 3 link with coilovers and the rear I may go with a 4 link and coilovers or go with spring over axle set up. Dont know yet. I am not too worried about ABS and VDC yet, and if I want them then I just need to mod the axles alittle to add a tone ring and what not.
 

Cyclemut

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
Morrison, CO
Well, Jordan (Ponyboy) moved before I could fix his speedo, ABS and what-not. I'd use a 9" rear with a tone ring carrier to keep everything working in the rear. You can tie both rear senors together, and using a Dakota Digital box, keep your speedo working. It will also keep your odo and tripmeter working normally as well.
 

civicjoe

lone wolf mod
Founding Member
Location
Nevada
wow bro best of luck to you on this, always wondered why all the gear and only 2wd, i now get it!
If you were closer id give ya hand, but youre further than LV, holy hell. I am bad at american geography
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
Well, Jordan (Ponyboy) moved before I could fix his speedo, ABS and what-not. I'd use a 9" rear with a tone ring carrier to keep everything working in the rear. You can tie both rear senors together, and using a Dakota Digital box, keep your speedo working. It will also keep your odo and tripmeter working normally as well.

Good advice. I'll look into find a 9" that has tone rings and look into a Dakota Digital Box. Having a speedo working right along with the odo and trip kinda important. I dont think the cops would like the that, we'll sir I dont have it working right thats why I was speeding. lol

wow bro best of luck to you on this, always wondered why all the gear and only 2wd, i now get it!
If you were closer id give ya hand, but youre further than LV, holy hell. I am bad at american geography

Yup, I always want to be a 4x4 kinda wish I bought one but Ca sucks and didnt have any close by when I went to buy mine. So I am slowly building it to how I want it to be.
Yea Yuma is next to Mexico so just a ways from LV lol
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
Hmmm, I'd consider the D44 or Ford 9" a downgrade from a H233B, but if the 2wd's came with a weaker axle than that anyway, I'd consider a D60 as a more appropriate rear swap...unless planning to beef up the 9".

Most people doing a SAS are going to run at LEAST 35's to 37's, and the D44 fighting the X's weight is not an easy battle if you're not easy on the go go juice, etc....with the 9" being generally tougher than the D44/less vulnerable to trail damage (Drop-in 3rd Member, etc...).
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
^ Yea the 2wd Auto has the C200 in it so its not as good as the 233B, but that is basically a D44 from what I read any ways. Part will be eaiser to get to for either the D44 or the Ford 9". I thought about the D60 but a beefed up D44 or Ford 9" will do fine in the X even with 37" as long as you get the right gearing.
 

Cyclemut

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
Morrison, CO
D60's or even the venerable 14 bolts are worth gold nowadays. With the lockers and gearing for them also being higher in price than the D44 or 9".

I ran a mini-spool in my 9", rated to around 300hp with gearing. A full spool can be had around $150 for a name brand unit, less if you look around. I paid $16 or so for the mini. Well worth it, but perhaps not for the DD. Lockers for a 9" can also be had for cheap-ish. D44 lockers abound, depending only on wants/needs/tire sizes. I personally like the OX lockers with electric actuator (vs. cable) due to being able to run the wiring easily.

Gearing for either the 9" or the D44 is also cheap as hell! And the gearing is fairly close and well within tolerances for acceptable percentages. I liked that part.

Does the front axle have places for sensors?
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
Thats why Im leaning to the D44 or the 9". So much eaiser to find stuff for and shouldnt cost me an arm and leg.

Im guessing it does since its coming off a newer dodge ram.
 

Cyclemut

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
Morrison, CO
Then you're really in business! The newer style bearing assemblies will have a tone ring on them. With the use of the Dakota Digital boxes, you can calibrate all of the sensors to read at the same rate and then continue to adjust for speeds and get your speedo to read dead on, all of the lights will remain off. Sounds like you've got yourself a winning combo and really, unless you went out and bought a Rubi rear end (like John and Dave did) and regeared it for optimal whatever with your tires, you'll have a rig similar to their rigs. And be like Dave and John in that all your lights and whatnot are still working normally.
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
^ Nice. So this front axle is seem to be a better find. The only down fall is its a low pinion but oh well. And I'll look for a rear that is newer as well so that way I can keep everything reading right. That should be end of my computer nightmare since I have a divorced TC that will be manual so I'll have the sticks in the cab and the hub I will have to get the manaul locking hubs and atleast a rear locker but might as well go with a locking front to while I am building it
 

J Everett

Suspension Lift
Founding Member
Location
Houma, LA
Watching and learning. I'm also planning a divorced T/C 4x4 conversion, but I plan to do a Titan swap in the front and keep the IFS.
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
My buddy just picked up my front axle. 80 bucks so its a win. This dream is slowly coming together which is so amazing!!

And heres the proof in the pics!

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Cyclemut

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
Morrison, CO
Wow, there's even a speed sensor still hanging on the passenger's side! Nice catch. But, the hub conversion for the outers will cost a fortune. I'd stick with the standard, non-hub outer bearings and do the conversion that way. One plus to doing it this way is the shift-on-the-fly aspect that you'll be getting, like the original version, because the entire front end will be spinning at speed. Unless the gears aren't exactly the same (even the 1-2% difference proved to be a bit difficult shifting on the fly when I had my hubs locked in and was running at speed), then shifting could be a tad difficult once in a while.

Nice job on getting the axle! :)
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
Yea that is what I was thinking and just keep the stock set up dodge has for the front axle. I think there was a way to change the way it engages the one axle since there other one is always engaged (I think). But manual locking hub may be alittle bit of pain when on the trail. Might as well go with the newer tech stuff.
 

RATTFINK

XN OG Admin.
Founding Member
Location
Conroe, TX
Let the fun begin! Looks like you are off to a great start.

Sent from my HTC Thunderbolt thru Time and Space, using Tapatalk.
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
Yup its a good start. Now I just need to find a divorced tcase and a new rear end since my stock one isn't the greatest.

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Cyclemut

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
Morrison, CO
There is a heavy duty axle coupler available for the Dodge axles. I always thought about running a spool in the front of one of those (mini spool would be just fine) and it would be 3 wheel drive when the 4WD is engaged. When you needed the extra wheel, lock in the other shaft and you're fully locked! Kick out the axle lock when you're over the obstacle and you're back to 3 wheel drive. With the mini spool, the driver's side wheel will have power. That would be one of the cheapest 'selectable' lockers in the front that you can get! I paid around $16 for my mini spool. ;)
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
I was looking at that earlier. So correct me if im wrong when in 4x4 drive the driver side axle is engagned and the passengerside isnt intill the sleeve connects the passenger axle with the intermediate shaft which then makes the front axle one? So does that mean i wont need a front locker? Im still at alittle bit of lost with this axle. I havent had too much time to fully read up on it thanks to work.
 

Cyclemut

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
Morrison, CO
If you have an open front diff and you engage 4WD without the passenger's side axle engaged, the front axle won't do anything (due to the open front diff).

Once you engage the pass side axle, then the front diff will work (until one wheel spins, like a regular axle, and you lose front diff power [due to the open front diff]).

But, if you put in a mini spool and shift into 4WD, the driver's side tire will have power and turn, regardless of whether or not the pass side axle is engaged. If the pass side axle is engaged, then both front wheels will have power. All this would also be true with a selectable locker as well, if the locker is engaged, same as the spool. If the locker is not engaged, then the same as the open diff, until the locker is engaged.

But, and I just tried doing some prelim research on it (can't find it off hand), I thought there was even a single piece passenger's side axle shaft conversion for that axle. But you might want to call 4 Wheel Parts, or even your local 4WD shop, and see if they know who makes it. It's a special axle shaft, with the sealing surface in the correct spot. The front diff seal isn't in the pumpkin area on that axle, it's to the right of the vacuum actuator housing on the passenger's side tube.
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
If you have an open front diff and you engage 4WD without the passenger's side axle engaged, the front axle won't do anything (due to the open front diff).

Once you engage the pass side axle, then the front diff will work (until one wheel spins, like a regular axle, and you lose front diff power [due to the open front diff]).

But, if you put in a mini spool and shift into 4WD, the driver's side tire will have power and turn, regardless of whether or not the pass side axle is engaged. If the pass side axle is engaged, then both front wheels will have power. All this would also be true with a selectable locker as well, if the locker is engaged, same as the spool. If the locker is not engaged, then the same as the open diff, until the locker is engaged.

But, and I just tried doing some prelim research on it (can't find it off hand), I thought there was even a single piece passenger's side axle shaft conversion for that axle. But you might want to call 4 Wheel Parts, or even your local 4WD shop, and see if they know who makes it. It's a special axle shaft, with the sealing surface in the correct spot. The front diff seal isn't in the pumpkin area on that axle, it's to the right of the vacuum actuator housing on the passenger's side tube.

Oh ok I think I kinda understand how this axle works. So Ill add a mini spool to my parts list. Thanks for explanation on that.

Okay....

So are you done yet????
Lmao I wish I was done. If I won the lottery or if santa brings me all the part I need then ill be able to finish sooner lol
 

Cyclemut

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
Morrison, CO
A buddy of mine just became a dealer of these guys, he owns Battlement Fabrications (in Grand Junction, CO).

http://spyntec.com/

0002_Dodge_Complete_1-300x300.jpg


It's the conversion for hubs on your Dodge axle. Not that it's necessary by any means. But since he just posted up that he's now a dealer, I figured I would let you in on it too. ;)
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
I've got some fantastic ideas for ya, but, that's very price oriented, so, depending on what your price range is, it might not work, but, I found a total BAMF transfer case, and actually have it sketched up to be a fully electronically actuated one, instead of having to punch three shifters through for the T-Case. (3 speed T-Case, in which the Middle gear ratio is considerably lower than what low range is on a stock X's T-case, and LOW is crawler low/stump puller low.....their "low geared" config is 5.44:1, 3.05:1, and 1:1 with a stock X being 2.625:1 and 1:1)

http://stak4x4.com/Transfer_Cases/3speed.htm

I'm seriously putting thought into plotting one of these with a pair of D60 axles on a rock buggy with 37's or 40's if I can find a way to make the money come together....
 
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Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
I've got some fantastic ideas for ya, but, that's very price oriented, so, depending on what your price range is, it might not work, but, I found a total BAMF transfer case, and actually have it sketched up to be a fully electronically actuated one, instead of having to punch three shifters through for the T-Case. (3 speed T-Case, in which the Middle gear ratio is considerably lower than what low range is on a stock X's T-case, and LOW is crawler low/stump puller low.....their "low geared" config is 5.44:1, 3.05:1, and 1:1 with a stock X being 2.625:1 and 1:1)

http://stak4x4.com/Transfer_Cases/3speed.htm

I'm seriously putting thought into plotting one of these with a pair of D60 axles on a rock buggy with 37's or 40's if I can find a way to make the money come together....

That thing is supper nice! But very costly lol. Im trying to stay on the semi low cost side but we shall see how well that works.
 

Jmac289gt

Sliders
Founding Member
Location
Dickinson, TX
I always did like the way your X looked so im watching this now to see the progress cause...well it will prolly be really sweet when done.
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
Deadpilot, what T/C are you planning to use? Atlas?
If I can afford an atlas I would love to get one. But I think im gonna go with a dana 300.

I always did like the way your X looked so im watching this now to see the progress cause...well it will prolly be really sweet when done.
Thanks and it will look amazing or so I hope lol



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Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
So I have a rear axle now. Its out of Nissan Titan and has the factory elocker in it. The only problem is the spyder gears are blown. But for a 150 bucks it really aint that bad of deal. Once I get some pics of it I'll post them up here.
So now its off to find a transefer case, axles shafts and hubs. Still along way to go but under budget as of right now since Im only into this project for $230. Not bad I think
 
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