Deadpilot's Conversion from 2wd to 4x4 SAS

drbandkgb

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Well in about to drop some money on gears ;-)
Did you have your drive shafts custom cut? What did his cost
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
Gears will cost ya some. My 4.09 gears weren't cheap.
Yea I had custom ones made. I needed to have them made to have slip joints since the transfer case isn't stock. Those set me back $800
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
So I got some steering work done today. Really more money spent. Lol. And more customizing. I just spent about 2 hours on the phone with a two different companies and ended up ordering a high performance Toyota power steering pump and a couple hose kits to getting my steering lines plumbed. And also ordered a 11/16 36 spline coupler to make a custom steering shaft. Oh also new yokes and hardware for them that are 1350 for my transfer case. So today hurt the wallet and the X isn't happy since the power steering pump got removed.

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Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
More parts came in.
New power steering pump from psc
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And the other thing I decided to do. New tires. 35s Goodyear Wrangler MT/R

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Compared the new and old ones. (Well those are new too lol)
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Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
Thanks they are similar to one's the hmmwvs use but 37s on a 16.5 rim. Once I get it set up and tested I can give ya more info on it.
 

CaptainMorgan_SOS

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Alamogordo, NM
The old style MTRs are similar to the hmmwv tires, but these new ones are different. I have them in 37s. They grip well, are strong and seem like they will last a while. I did manage to punture a sidewall on one of mine though on a ridiculously sharp rock.

As for the hydro assist, I am really just wondering how the lines are run. I am planning on using my stock pump, but I see you got a Toyota one, so it's going to be a bit different.
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
The old style MTRs are similar to the hmmwv tires, but these new ones are different. I have them in 37s. They grip well, are strong and seem like they will last a while. I did manage to punture a sidewall on one of mine though on a ridiculously sharp rock.

As for the hydro assist, I am really just wondering how the lines are run. I am planning on using my stock pump, but I see you got a Toyota one, so it's going to be a bit different.

Well we use a couple of different tires on the hmmwvs now the old style are used then one similar to these.

Well you won't be able to use to the stock pump unless you can talk with the company you are going with the assist ram. I'll post good pics of all the lines and what not when all the parts come in.
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
Ah true. But but the stock pump still may not have enough power to pump the fluid to get use out of the ram. That's why I to get a high performance one from psc and they don't do nissan. So I'll make do with the toyota pump.
 

TheFauxFox

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Huntsville, AL
Ah true. But but the stock pump still may not have enough power to pump the fluid to get use out of the ram. That's why I to get a high performance one from psc and they don't do nissan. So I'll make do with the toyota pump.

Thats what I've heard. I met a guy who just tapped the stock box. He said it was fine for his 37"s, but I would still go your route, fo sho.
 

OregonX

Test Drive
Location
Eugene, OR
Both are 14 in springs since the shock has a 12 in travel. Have to wait till i get full weight on it to make sure all is good but it should be close

When glancing at some of you photos at ride height it looks like you have quite a bit of shock shaft showing. Most guys are running a spring combo on their dual rate C/O's that equals twice the length of their shock travel, and in some cases 2" over that. If you took that approach with your truck you would want the total combined spring length to be between 24-26" total. With two 14" springs you're at 28" total. I would give some thought to running a shorter top spring on each side. It might help bring your ride height down a bit and give you some more droop capability with a shock that is more compresed at ride height.

Also, just some food for thought. There is going to be a ton of stress on the single upper link in the front. A ton. I would reconsider welding your axle side bracket to the cast center section, or at least find some way to run a truss. Welding to a cast center section and making it strong is tricky. If you've ever read up on the Calmini SAS kit for the first gens you may recall that a common failure point is where part of one of the radius arm brackets gets welded to the center section. I would reinforce the crap out of that factory tranny crossmember if you're going to attach your link brackets to it.

Glad to see all of the progress you're making! Good luck man!
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
Thanks for that advice. I'll look into changing the upper spring for shorter ones.

That's good point. I was thinking about it and should have just done it then but it's not too late. I never read the calmini SAS kit so that's good info and I got drop the transfer case anyways so I'll drop that too.

I'm thinking about getting rid of of the body lift too. Not sure yet...
 

Trexx

Bought an X
Location
Colorado
Curious to see the specs, when you have the ride height adjusted to your preference but looks great! My plan (when
that **** happens) Is to have sas 2nd gen on 35-s and then cut the fenders for 37s, so low profile, but has that travel. Keep it up!
 

SASXA

First Fill-Up (of many)
I'm not one to be a debbie downer, but a couple things, do you even have a clue what your RAA and AD are, because those link angles look like crap, the coilovers were not set-up properly at full bump unless you want to stay a monster truck and is your hydro assist going to hit the diff cover when you turn driver? Also, I don't know what size coilovers you're running but you should run a softer spring rate and run a lower that's 2" longer than your shaft length and a upper that's exactly your shaft length with a 2" preload on the springs.
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
So this week has been a good week for progress on the X. The whole steering system is done and works. No rubbing of the tires at full crank. Hydro assit ram doesn't hit anything when it moves. So that's all good. Tires are aligned close enough to do a quick test run and then get true alignment. Brake system is up and working now. No leaks and full petal pressure is back.

Next thing to finish up is the shifter linkage for transfer case reinstall the transfer case and put the rear drive shaft in and if that cross member isn't in the way the front one will go in tomorrow too. So this weekend the X will move out of its stall for the 1st time in 10 months.
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
Right now super bright. But that could be the light at the end of the tunnel or just a freight train headed my direction lol
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
Guess what??

She is out of her stall finally. Drove in it around the yard to test it out. And little things here and there with the brakes but bleed them again and all better.

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Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
So yesterday I took her on her 1st test drive. A 5 mile drive to mod day. She handled great. A lot of body roll though. Steering needs some more adjusting and brakes need some more work since I blew out a seal on the caliper up front. Also was stuck in rear low because there is a piece of angle in the way to shift in rear high. And the other major issue is bad vibration in the drive train. But I think it's cause the transfer case is hard mounted and motor and transmission is soft mounted. So I ordering some bushing and changing how the transfer case is mounted. And that should fix the problem. I hoping for this Friday to do another test run.
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
So got the front end put back together. All the lights work again same does the winch. I also got all the ARB compressor stuff hooked up.

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Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
So was finally able to get working on the X again today. Got the custom Trans mount in took care of the wobble. Got the brakes bleed out and have most of the pressure back. Just have to bleed them again. Hooked up the front abs sensors and even though I don't have tone rings up front I got my speedo back and some warning lights are gone. But I blew a hydraulic line so tomorrow I'll look at that more and see what happened and where it broke.

But I'm getting closer I think.....
 

Deadpilot

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Founding Member
Location
Fallbrook, CA
She is alive!!! Drive train wobble gone for the most part. Very little is there. Brakes are good. Speedo is working not sure how off it is yet. I put a new battery in a blue top in with 900 CCA.
Tomorrow the X goes in for a trans fluid flush and then Tues it will get its alignment.
 
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