Crabby's Mild Lift (ome Lift)

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
@TheCrabby1 Thought we'd move this here for discussion.

So the bilstien's are a direct fit on the S model , I know they were standard on the pro's/off road model's . Could they be used with a leveling spacer on the top so I wouldn't have to notch it up and lose a little dampening or travel ? The leaf's will be replaced ; they are that rusty and look to be original at 98,000+ mile's. Everything I've ever driven or owned has been kept stock, with the exception of a 69 Buick GS and my first daughter's mom ;)

The 5100's are a direct fit. The 5100s are the silver ones, not the yellow/blue but either are a direct fit.

If you go with the yellow/blue 4600s, you'll have to use a spacer but you'll have to have custom top-hats with longer studs. I think Nisstec sells those and would probably install them with new springs on a set of 4600's to ship to you. A 1" lift (0.5" thick) spacer shouldn't cause any issues what so ever with your setup.

If you use the silver 5100s, using adjustable spring seat they come with won't affect ride or travel at all. They still have the same limits and on such a low amount of lift, you'll never know the difference. They have slightly different dampening than the 4600s because they are designed to use on lifted applications. You'll still have to have the special top hats to run the lift spacers if you decide to go that route though.

I hear good things about General spring replacement leaves but I'm not sure what options there are available from them in regard to lift/capacity. You'll have to do some research there.

I know it's a lot of $$ and more lift than you want, but the OME full suspension setup is a great kit but you're looking at probably 1.75-2" of total lift but an increase in capacity all around and a well engineered system that was developed to be used together so it performs very well in vehicles that aren't hard core off-roaders. It's a great setup for the average outdoorsman or overlander.
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Okay , Thanx . I'm gonna look into them with the ez550 spring setup. Maybe the OME could be ordered with a smaller shackle's to level it out . So many different piece's to the X puzzle it's just mind boggling for a rookie like me ! It also justifies the What are you drinking thread ..............
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Okay , Thanx . I'm gonna look into them with the ez550 spring setup. Maybe the OME could be ordered with a smaller shackle's to level it out . So many different piece's to the X puzzle it's just mind boggling for a rookie like me ! It also justifies the What are you drinking thread ..............

I don't think much of the OME lift is accomplished with the shackle but that could be an option. PRG makes the best adjustable shackle AFAIK. The Nisstec one doesn't fit as well unless they've redesigned it recently.
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
@TheCrabby1 Thought we'd move this here for discussion.



The 5100's are a direct fit. The 5100s are the silver ones, not the yellow/blue but either are a direct fit.

If you go with the yellow/blue 4600s, you'll have to use a spacer but you'll have to have custom top-hats with longer studs. I think Nisstec sells those and would probably install them with new springs on a set of 4600's to ship to you. A 1" lift (0.5" thick) spacer shouldn't cause any issues what so ever with your setup.

If you use the silver 5100s, using adjustable spring seat they come with won't affect ride or travel at all. They still have the same limits and on such a low amount of lift, you'll never know the difference. They have slightly different dampening than the 4600s because they are designed to use on lifted applications. You'll still have to have the special top hats to run the lift spacers if you decide to go that route though.

I hear good things about General spring replacement leaves but I'm not sure what options there are available from them in regard to lift/capacity. You'll have to do some research there.

I know it's a lot of $$ and more lift than you want, but the OME full suspension setup is a great kit but you're looking at probably 1.75-2" of total lift but an increase in capacity all around and a well engineered system that was developed to be used together so it performs very well in vehicles that aren't hard core off-roaders. It's a great setup for the average outdoorsman or overlander.

Just to clarify, you don't need custom tophats to run a spacer, just longer studs if you want 1" of lift or more. You can pop out your old studs from the tophats and swap in the longer ones. Keep in mind you will have to disassemble/reassemble the coil spring/shock using something like spring compressors or pay a shop to do it regardless if you go for a spacer or a shock swap.

On an Xterra as old as yours the OEM pack is probably not worth saving. The helper springs will buy you a bit of time (like a year) but eventually the pack will break a leaf or go flat.

Given the above two, I agree the OME package is great if you are revamping the suspension (front and rear). It will ride stiffer though, that has to be said because it is the primary complaint from people. Cost is about $1300 if you install yourself.

If you want to just swap out the front shocks (coil springs are still good) and will get the lift from the collar adjustment on the 5100's, your cost (if you do it yourself) is just the cost of the two shocks. For the rear this is also a good alternative. It's a replacement leaf pack at about $400 but is medium duty (ie better than OEM + about 1" lift). You can combine that with a lift shackle from PRG or Nisstec. If you don't want to order from PRG you can get their shackles from performancelifts.com. The total cost breakdown is $210 (shocks)+ $402 (leaf pack)+ $129 (shackle) = $741 if you install yourself

Edit: The shackle is optional, it is just nice to be able to adjust the rear if it sags over time.
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Well after going on different site's from distributor's to manufacturer's [ ufck there's quite a few, and too many option's ! ] and looking and reading reviews and going thru the thread's all I got was a headache , carpel tunnel in my right hand/wrist and a big brown spot in my chair from looking at some of the price's !! NO JUST KIDDING ? [about the headache] Thanx TerryD,PhullD and everyone else who had post's in the suspension thread's . After all has been said and read I've decided to.. [DRUMROLL].............Buy a Ford..... NO,NO,..HELL NO.... I'm gonna to go OME from Nisstec. I'll do the full package with Dakar leaf's and add greaseable shackle's. Heading down the dark path of No return to Mod city...............some one please throw me a rope. LOL
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Well after going on different site's from distributor's to manufacturer's [ ufck there's quite a few, and too many option's ! ] and looking and reading reviews and going thru the thread's all I got was a headache , carpel tunnel in my right hand/wrist and a big brown spot in my chair from looking at some of the price's !! NO JUST KIDDING ? [about the headache] Thanx TerryD,PhullD and everyone else who had post's in the suspension thread's . After all has been said and read I've decided to.. [DRUMROLL].............Buy a Ford..... NO,NO,..HELL NO.... I'm gonna to go OME from Nisstec. I'll do the full package with Dakar leaf's and add greaseable shackle's. Heading down the dark path of No return to Mod city...............some one please throw me a rope. LOL

You'll be happy with that, no regrets. While everything is apart you should check your ball joints and end links etc. for play. I'd also suggest SuperPro polyurethane bushings for the steering rack. It will be a new vehicle under there.
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
You'll be happy with that, no regrets. While everything is apart you should check your ball joints and end links etc. for play. I'd also suggest SuperPro polyurethane bushings for the steering rack. It will be a new vehicle under there.
Thanx again ,I'll have my buddy look them over when it's apart. Were gonna do this over his house in a garage, probably do the front end one weekend then the rear end the next available time for him. Just got to wait another week or two to have all cash fund's in hand to give to the admiral so she don't blow a fuse [apparently musical equipment and Xterra mod's don't fall into House need's program ] Imagine that !!
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Almost forgot , is my stock jack still going to work ?
It'll still lift the tires from the axle in the rear. The front should work too since you're not increasing the droop much with that kit.

I think you'll be really happy with that set-up though. OME builds good stuff and the kit is all matched and designed to work together very well. I was very happy with my OME leaves on my Cherokee years ago.

You should do cam bolts too to guarantee you can align it afterward since you're in there.
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
It'll still lift the tires from the axle in the rear. The front should work too since you're not increasing the droop much with that kit.

I think you'll be really happy with that set-up though. OME builds good stuff and the kit is all matched and designed to work together very well. I was very happy with my OME leaves on my Cherokee years ago.

You should do cam bolts too to guarantee you can align it afterward since you're in there.
I'm definitely grabbing the cam bolt's , somewhere I read the first half of 05 some had adjustable bolt's, then they didn't. Or maybe that person was mistaken ?With new tire's I'd rather have them then not. I just figured if everything come's from one place and I have a part that fail's it sure make's it easier to know where it came from plus like you said" they should be designed to all work together.
 

meisanerd

Need Bigger Tires
From what I have heard, it is very hit/miss on whether the vehicle came with the adjustable bolts or not, didnt even seem to be related to the trim level or year, there seemed to be no rhyme or reason for which ones had them.
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
You'll be happy with that, no regrets. While everything is apart you should check your ball joints and end links etc. for play. I'd also suggest SuperPro polyurethane bushings for the steering rack. It will be a new vehicle under there.
I went on the website and checked stuff out, THANX !! I wouldn't mind buying the complete front end rebuild and stashing away until needed , good stuff !
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
You want the USA site and you only need the steering rack and pinion kit from SuperPro searching for the Frontier (same as the Xterra). It's like $60-$65. Also it should be mentioned there is a chance your upper control arm will hit your coil bucket when your suspension droops with the OME kit. Once installed lift the front by the cross member and let the suspension sag. Look at the control arm and make sure it isn't resting on the coil bucket. IF it is, you have two options, $500 SPC upper control arms (should clear the bucket and allow a bit more travel) or bumpstops to lessen the bang noise.
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
You want the USA site and you only need the steering rack and pinion kit from SuperPro searching for the Frontier (same as the Xterra). It's like $60-$65. Also it should be mentioned there is a chance your upper control arm will hit your coil bucket when your suspension droops with the OME kit. Once installed lift the front by the cross member and let the suspension sag. Look at the control arm and make sure it isn't resting on the coil bucket. IF it is, you have two options, $500 SPC upper control arms (should clear the bucket and allow a bit more travel) or bumpstops to lessen the bang noise.
Okay , when I looked I saw the one's for the frontier but not the X and it had me wondering:cool: I'll check out bumpstops, 5 hundred more right now ain't gonna happen. Thanx
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
Old Man Emu is a solid choice, I think you'll really like that setup. Did you go with MD or HD? My '06 is MD front and rear, the '09 is HD front and MD rear. But the '09 has a winch.

I know this can vary, and it's no guarantee on your truck, but on both of ours I didn't need to install aftermarket UCA's. The stock ones have been just fine. Good call on adjustable camber bolts, those you'll almost always need.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
You want the USA site and you only need the steering rack and pinion kit from SuperPro searching for the Frontier (same as the Xterra). It's like $60-$65. Also it should be mentioned there is a chance your upper control arm will hit your coil bucket when your suspension droops with the OME kit. Once installed lift the front by the cross member and let the suspension sag. Look at the control arm and make sure it isn't resting on the coil bucket. IF it is, you have two options, $500 SPC upper control arms (should clear the bucket and allow a bit more travel) or bumpstops to lessen the bang noise.

I thought that the OME kit operated inside the OE travel limits?
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Old Man Emu is a solid choice, I think you'll really like that setup. Did you go with MD or HD? My '06 is MD front and rear, the '09 is HD front and MD rear. But the '09 has a winch.

I know this can vary, and it's no guarantee on your truck, but on both of ours I didn't need to install aftermarket UCA's. The stock ones have been just fine. Good call on adjustable camber bolts, those you'll almost always need.
MD on the front , guy at Nisstec said that would be fine with a hefty aluminium bumper and no winch, and the back will have a tire carrier bumper EVENTUALLY. Just trying to figure out if I want to have a rough ride until I can afford the bumper's or MD and switch stuff out to HD later. It's gonna be a couple week's before I order anything so I got time to mull it over , read more post's and gather intel from my X-tended family ;) I'm not looking to build a rock crawling / double black diamond double Z trail concurring beast ! But I want to be more then capable on the old man tra.....I mean kiddie trail's .
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Definitely don't go HD in the front, it will rattle your teeth out. Later on if the rear sags you can get the OME extra leaf to stiffen the rear (basically all the HD rear pack is). Also your stock truck can handle most trails, all you need is a good set of tires and a decent spotter.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Definitely don't go HD in the front, it will rattle your teeth out. Later on if the rear sags you can get the OME extra leaf to stiffen the rear (basically all the HD rear pack is). Also your stock truck can handle most trails, all you need is a good set of tires and a decent spotter.

This.

Bur I will add that I ran Rads w/ 650lb springs for about 6mos with the stock bumper and it wasn't horrible. But my reference is a 3/4t pick-up that was designed in the 80s. So you may see that differently...
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Definitely don't go HD in the front, it will rattle your teeth out. Later on if the rear sags you can get the OME extra leaf to stiffen the rear (basically all the HD rear pack is). Also your stock truck can handle most trails, all you need is a good set of tires and a decent spotter.
I was thinking maybe a smaller winch with the synthetic rope and the hefty aluminum bumper may be alright with MD on front. Especially if I get down to 200lb's !! LOL Maybe do the rear shock's but not the dakar leaf's on until I actually have the rear tire carrier bumper in my possession. One OME pack is complete and the other is with the AAL . It'll be between those two and finance's when I order. I can alway's get the OME leaf down the road.. ""Just so much thinking about it"""
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
I was thinking maybe a smaller winch with the synthetic rope and the hefty aluminum bumper may be alright with MD on front. Especially if I get down to 200lb's !! LOL Maybe do the rear shock's but not the dakar leaf's on until I actually have the rear tire carrier bumper in my possession. One OME pack is complete and the other is with the AAL . It'll be between those two and finance's when I order. I can alway's get the OME leaf down the road.. ""Just so much thinking about it"""

I'd go medium f&r then. You can always upgrade if you need to later on.
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Okay , it's all down hill from here !! Just ordered OME , Shock's ,coil's, cam bolt's and 1" top spacer's for the front . Have to do the rear end mid-summer/fall as other expense's have gotten in the way :(................this waiting SUCK'S , why ain't they here yet !! LOL
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Okay , it's all down hill from here !! Just ordered OME , Shock's ,coil's, cam bolt's and 1" top spacer's for the front . Have to do the rear end mid-summer/fall as other expense's have gotten in the way :(................this waiting SUCK'S , why ain't they here yet !! LOL

The 1" spacer (I'm assuming a 0.5" thick spacer that gives 1" of lift) probably won't work out the way you think it will with the OME stuff. You will get 1-2" of lift with the OME setup and that runs the risk of touching the coil bucket at droop with that, adding another spacer will push your control arms further down nearly sitting on your coil buckets as per my earlier posts, guaranteed 100% to hit upon suspension cycling without SPC arms. The result is a loud bang noise.

This is a response from Nisstec after someone asked about adding a spacer to an OME HD setup. The Light Racing arms are the SPC arms I'm referring to. The take away from this is you need SPC arms (or PRG ones) to make the spacer work.
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
As always I appreciate every body's insight. I'm going to see where it sit's without the spacer's after a 1-2 month's of use. The guy at Nisstec said the same thing as the web site that it's 1.5-2 inch's of lift. when I said [ which ] is it ? he said it should start at 2 then gradually settle into it's position after a little time. It could be at 2 or a hair under 2 or could be at 1.5 . If I don't like where it sit's I'll get the arm's and use the spacer's and if not I'll throw them on the shelf. Maybe make beer coaster's out of them :eek: or probably return them . Are most arm's the same or is their one you would recommend for my application ?? Thanx
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
The 1" spacer (I'm assuming a 0.5" thick spacer that gives 1" of lift) probably won't work out the way you think it will with the OME stuff. You will get 1-2" of lift with the OME setup and that runs the risk of touching the coil bucket at droop with that, adding another spacer will push your control arms further down nearly sitting on your coil buckets as per my earlier posts, guaranteed 100% to hit upon suspension cycling without SPC arms. The result is a loud bang noise.

This is a response from Nisstec after someone asked about adding a spacer to an OME HD setup. The Light Racing arms are the SPC arms I'm referring to. The take away from this is you need SPC arms (or PRG ones) to make the spacer work.

I would do the SPC arms with the ball joints vs the uniball joints for a primarily road driven vehicle.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Hey TerryD , Is SPC an abbreviated name or is that the brand name ??
Both. Specialty Products Company I think but Nisstec sells their UCAs under SPC branding. They're good stuff. I really like the sealed ball joints vs the open uniballs and the ability to easily dial in the alignment.
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Rockauto.com also sells higher end mevotech arms that are basically SPC arms with SPC ball joints. They are about $425, they occasionally go on sale on Amazon or something.
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Well I remembered I forgot bumpstop's ,so I checked in with Nisstec and since there waiting for OME stuff that's back ordered I bought a set to b shipped with everything else when it get's there . Back to the Heinz Ketchup commercial....................................................................................:confused:
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Well I remembered I forgot bumpstop's ,so I checked in with Nisstec and since there waiting for OME stuff that's back ordered I bought a set to b shipped with everything else when it get's there . Back to the Heinz Ketchup commercial....................................................................................:confused:
That's all part of the fun!!! You always forget SOMETHING!

Looking forward to seeing you X after you get the lift on.
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
That's all part of the fun!!! You always forget SOMETHING!

Looking forward to seeing you X after you get the lift on.
The guy at nisstec said most OME stuff is back ordered a little but the rear shock's are reallllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllly back odered so I might just order them ,leaf's and shackle's before the end of march so I could have by early summer. Just my luck !! If I ordered bilstein's the worker's probably would have gone on strike for 6 month's . I've had the luck of schleprock from the flintstone's when it's come to my X. o_O
 

TerryD

Total Tease
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Location
Covington, Va
The guy at nisstec said most OME stuff is back ordered a little but the rear shock's are reallllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllly back odered so I might just order them ,leaf's and shackle's before the end of march so I could have by early summer. Just my luck !! If I ordered bilstein's the worker's probably would have gone on strike for 6 month's . I've had the luck of schleprock from the flintstone's when it's come to my X. o_O
Everyone is trying to get ready for summer trips! I've still got to decide on and order a rear diff cover or skid for my M226 swap.
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Everyone is trying to get ready for summer trips! I've still got to decide on and order a rear diff cover or skid for my M226 swap.
Would you know if any year 05-15 X auto trans would be a direct fit or did they change stuff around on that around 10-11 like they did on a few thing's ? And is it possible to put a Manuel trans in it's place or does that have altogether different gearing which would require the diff's to come along also ? thanx
 

TerryD

Total Tease
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Location
Covington, Va
Would you know if any year 05-15 X auto trans would be a direct fit or did they change stuff around on that around 10-11 like they did on a few thing's ? And is it possible to put a Manuel trans in it's place or does that have altogether different gearing which would require the diff's to come along also ? thanx

I think they made some changes to the later autos but someone else will have to say for sure.

You can do the manual swap but you need the wiring harness and ECM as well as the t-case from the manual transmission X. Plus the manuals had different gearing (lower) so you'd want to swap diffs too. At that point you'd be better off just trading for a manual transmission X in my opinion. You'd basically have to have a complete manual X to do the swap so....
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
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Location
Burtonsville, Md
I think they made some changes to the later autos but someone else will have to say for sure.

You can do the manual swap but you need the wiring harness and ECM as well as the t-case from the manual transmission X. Plus the manuals had different gearing (lower) so you'd want to swap diffs too. At that point you'd be better off just trading for a manual transmission X in my opinion. You'd basically have to have a complete manual X to do the swap so....
I figured I would ask just in case I ran across one at a junk yard , I meant[ Salvage reclamation yard ] Not that it's easy to find 05+ X's anywhere, I had to call 6-8 different yard's to find a alloy rim in S trim to put the spare on so I can do a 5 way rotation .
 
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TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
I think they made some changes to the later autos but someone else will have to say for sure.

You can do the manual swap but you need the wiring harness and ECM as well as the t-case from the manual transmission X. Plus the manuals had different gearing (lower) so you'd want to swap diffs too. At that point you'd be better off just trading for a manual transmission X in my opinion. You'd basically have to have a complete manual X to do the swap so....
Ole Man Emu should be delivered sometime Friday . Happy Happy Happy :D
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
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Location
Burtonsville, Md
In the word's of Alice Copper , Welcome to my nightmare !!! Lol The first thing I will say is if I EVER DO THIS AGAIN I WILL BUY EVERYTHING NEW THAT MAKES UP THE ENTIRE FRONT SUSPENSION !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There's a reason that rust is the color of $HIT , now I have a better understanding of that. Here's the short story of The Shock Absorber Adventure , 8 AM , Go to friend's house across the bay bridge . Did I mention I'm scared of height's [bridge is tall enough for 95% of all freighter's and the Queen Mary] normal pucker factor at 7! But this mourning wind blowing 20-25 with higher gust's !! Pucker factor now at 8.5 . Glad I have brown leather seat's :eek: and some air freshener ! Anyway we get the tire's off in his garage and put down huge piece's of cardboard to catch everything that fall's off [mainly the rust and penetrating lubricant droplet's] After failing to loosen lower shock bolt's with wrench's out came the sawzall and this didn't do much either.:( Out come's the pneumatic cutting wheel and spark's be flying ; 2 cutting wheel's later we got the shock's off :) top bolt's backed right off. Go figure . Here's the problem's we had reinstalling the new stuff (1) the store's that have AUTO in their name apparently don't know what shock bolt's are, they carry a universal bolt with rubber over metal between nut's on each end. Don't ask I cant explain it. Found some #8 hardened bolt's at ace hardware with the right shank size. YEA !! (2) When getting shock's into position we cant finagle them in without breaking the upper knuckle ! The really rusted up into a big rust ball knuckle, OFMR ! SCRAP/WIRE BRUSH/HAMMER-MAUL/SPRAY/HEAT/CUSS- REPEAT multiple time's , Hour's! Bolt loosen's Yea:) Beat on a while longer then UCA drop's down enough to get the shock in :D (3) When we go to tighten the 3 top hat bolt's they don't tighten all the way down to the top hat and we broke 2 of them loose. Now this is my fault because I ordered the pressed in stud's made for a spacer's [longer stud's, for all size spacer's ?] That I wasn't going to use at this time anyway . Now we stop and go look at the other shock and realize the thread's don't go to the bottom we have to use the spacer's . OK , we Now lock 2 nut's together on top of the the tophat stud's so we can loosen the nut already on there PIA but it work's then remove shock put on spacer and reinstall. Talk about frustrating ? probably a good thing Not To B drinking , we'd never got the second one in (4) We start installing 2nd shock and we can't get the knuckle nut to break lose PERIOD ! Okay let's put a nut on each tophat stud down about a half inch and use the cutting wheel to make them smaller then take off the nut to make the threads good for the reinstall . Of course as soon as we start tightening the top hat bolt's on the knuckle break's loose and the arm slide's down. Really ? Yes Really !! (5) Now we have to drill out cotterpin's that r broke off in the rusty cotterpin hole's ! It only took 2 drill bit's to accomplish this, just Ufcking amazing . All back together all good , Almost ! we didn't install cam bolt's because of a time constraint so they'll get done at the auto shop I normally use [ I HOPE ] BY FRIDAY ! The X actually track's straight down the road after all the beating we put on the front end and being out of camber . I'm ufcking amazed !! The reason for this aggravation is me trying to do this on a budget a little at a time . Knowing what I know now I would wait till I purchased everything I need Then JUST CUT ALL THE $HIT OFF AT ONCE..........PERIOD......Let's see if I can get a pic loaded
 
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