Cam And Crank Position Sensors

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
These are very common failures on our aging Second Gen Xterras and I wanted to get the information out there for those who are in need of it.

First and foremost: If you've changed one of these with an auto parts store or Amazon part and are still having issues or getting the same code, it's because no one has any luck with the cheap knockoff parts. Buy Nissan or Hitachi (OE part provider). Courtesy Nissan or Rock Auto have the best prices on them but your local dealer might match Courtesy and I've heard that AutoZone can get the Hitachi but have never tried to verify that.

Signs of failure are VDC, ABS and CEL all illuminated and need to be verified with a code reader (I'm not responsible for you dumping a bunch of money into sensors because you won't buy a code reader). Generally the vehicle will run but suffers from loss of power, although a dead Crankshaft Position Sensor will cause a no-start condition.

Camshaft Position Sensors:

The cam sensors are on the rear of each cylinder head. I was able to change mine going over the top of the engine and using a 10mm wrench. I'll try to get some pictures to add when I have the hood up again.

Being foreign designed, Bank 1 is the right or Passenger side in North America. Bank 2 is left or Driver side.

Part Numbers:

Bank 1:
Nissan: 23731-9J90D
Hitachi: CPS0008

Bank 2:
Nissan: 23731-AL61D
Hitachi: CPS0005

As far as I've found, everything from 05-15 with the VQ40DE uses the same sensors but there have been updates to them so the sensor you take out might not be EXACTLY identical to the one you replace it with.

Crankshaft Position Sensor:

This is a little trickier to get at and it is necessary to remove the right front inner fender liner to access it. If you haven't done this before, it takes a hand full of Phillips head screws and 1-3 push style fasteners depending on how many times it's been done before. Learn to do this because just about anything you do will require it in the future.

The Crank Sensor is located on the side of the block, just behind the cylinder head above the catalytic converter flange. The connector is covered with a rubber boot. It's been a while since I did mine but I believe I used a deep well 10mm socket and stubby ratchet to remove the bolt. Others find a swivel socket on a short extension to be handy for this.

You'll notice when you remove the sensor that there's no o-ring on it. This sensor is in the bell housing and doesn't need sealing but some people have ordered the o-ring and used it. Either way is fine. I did not use an o-ring when I did mine.

Part Numbers:

Nissan: 23731-EA20D
Hitachi: CPS0017

11641eda6ad723c42dedce49cae6b840(1).jpg

Nissan (and Hitachi I believe) have updated the Crank Position Sensor since most of our vehicles were manufactured. The new part comes with a metal sleeve over the lower portion and the connector is clocked 180° from the original. Gently twist your harness plug and it will work just fine.

Original:
1541878279199.jpg

New:
1541878241322.jpg

I like to use a light coating of dielectric grease on my connectors and o-rings when I install new sensors to seal moisture out of the connectors and help with installation.

I'll try to add pictures as soon as I get some. If anyone has pictures I can use, pm me and I'll add them to the thread in the proper place.

Thanks to:
@CAchief for the crank sensor pictures
 
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TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Well I put the buggy n front of the horse's , I went ahead and ordered the 2 Hitachi cam sensor's before I ordered a code reader !! Lol Maybe next week . :confused:

Thanx TerryD for the write up !!!
 

AlbatrossCafe

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Western WA
Get the OBD2 ELM327 from Amazon and the Torque app if you use an android phone. It'll read codes and pull a lot of live sensor data.

This one has good reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXGX8V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_S7cKFbBKMDN17

Ugh this is definitely a way better option than the $100 code reader I bought from the auto parts store that I now also have to find room to store in the vehicle. I pretty much only read codes, so there is really no reason for anything nicer.
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Alright, they came in today. So what are the pros and cons of simply replacing them now instead of carrying them with me and waiting for them to die? I know the obvious is that if my current ones have 10k miles left I may be "wasting" parts before I have to, but other than that any reason? For example, is it the part itself that dies, or is something else happening somewhere else in the line that causes them to fail (thus making a new one fail anyway)?
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
Alright, they came in today. So what are the pros and cons of simply replacing them now instead of carrying them with me and waiting for them to die? I know the obvious is that if my current ones have 10k miles left I may be "wasting" parts before I have to, but other than that any reason? For example, is it the part itself that dies, or is something else happening somewhere else in the line that causes them to fail (thus making a new one fail anyway)?

You could replace them and keep them as trail spares in case you or someone else in your group needs them.

One benefit is that you're replacing them in a more comfortable setting at your leisure rather than on the side of the road or trail in who knows what weather conditions.

Not that I've followed my own advice; I only have the crankshaft pos. sensor and haven't gotten around to buying the cam ones yet.
 

AlbatrossCafe

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Western WA
Alright, they came in today. So what are the pros and cons of simply replacing them now instead of carrying them with me and waiting for them to die? I know the obvious is that if my current ones have 10k miles left I may be "wasting" parts before I have to, but other than that any reason? For example, is it the part itself that dies, or is something else happening somewhere else in the line that causes them to fail (thus making a new one fail anyway)?

What is your mileage? I hit 100k and had a cam and 2 crank sensor fails within 3000 miles afterwards. They are cheap-ish enough that honestly I would replace all and also keep another round as spares... haha. Coming from someone who had to change one at a truck stop, one in the middle of the bushes in a hole on the side of the road, and the last in a small town after pushing my truck through an intersection... you will welcome getting to do it in a less stressful environment.

BFTq1YI.jpg
54wx725.jpg
8weR0tp.jpg
 
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ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
What is your mileage? I hit 100k and had a cam and 2 crank sensor fails within 3000 miles afterwards. They are cheap-ish enough that honestly I would replace all and also keep another round as spares... haha. Coming from someone who had to change one at a truck stop, one in the middle of the bushes in a hole on the side of the road, and the last in a small town after pushing my truck through an intersection... you will welcome getting to do it in a less stressful environment.

BFTq1YI.jpg
54wx725.jpg
8weR0tp.jpg

Your build (or repair haha) thread was my main motivation. I'm at 76k now. Maybe I'll just go ahead and do it at 95k.
 

CAchief

First Fill-Up (of many)
My crankshaft failed at around 100k. Loss of power, check engine light. Let the X sit for a bit and I was able to drive home. It's actually the first code I ever read with my OBD2 reader and was an easy enough fix.

Great thread @TerryD, articulate and well explained.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Yea @TerryD , good info. I haven't ordered sensors yet but I do have amazon bringing that code reader you mentioned to Crabby.

With 218k miles now and having OE suspension when I dug in and zero records, do you think mine have been replaced at some point already or could they be original too? I'm worried with everything looking original that I may have cat problems or timing, etc coming but it runs like a top..
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
@TerryD this thread has now saved two others. Because I ordered the parts preemptively, I had them on the shelf when @C3NK0 had driver cam sensor go bad. I gave him all three of mine and he just had new ones ordered and sent directly to me. He replaced the one, but luckily hadn’t done the other two yet and had them in the back of the truck.

One of the guys in the early group was having “power issues” when we caught up with them. He said it was going for a bit, lurching, then shutting off. I asked how many miles, he said 104k, and I said yeah, I know what it is. My reader gave us the code, but I couldn’t remember which code went to which. @TheCrabby1 had his fancy reader that clarified it was the crankshaft sensor, and between all of us remembering this thread and the pictures, we got him fixed up on the side of the trail.

Now I’m definitely going to do mine sooner just to get it done, then I’ll put mine (presumably with 15-20k miles left) in my truck as trail spares, and I’ll write the corresponding error codes on the side of the box.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
@TerryD this thread has now saved two others. Because I ordered the parts preemptively, I had them on the shelf when @C3NK0 had driver cam sensor go bad. I gave him all three of mine and he just had new ones ordered and sent directly to me. He replaced the one, but luckily hadn’t done the other two yet and had them in the back of the truck.

One of the guys in the early group was having “power issues” when we caught up with them. He said it was going for a bit, lurching, then shutting off. I asked how many miles, he said 104k, and I said yeah, I know what it is. My reader gave us the code, but I couldn’t remember which code went to which. @TheCrabby1 had his fancy reader that clarified it was the crankshaft sensor, and between all of us remembering this thread and the pictures, we got him fixed up on the side of the trail.

Now I’m definitely going to do mine sooner just to get it done, then I’ll put mine (presumably with 15-20k miles left) in my truck as trail spares, and I’ll write the corresponding error codes on the side of the box.
Good to hear! Glad you got him going. I saw some folks talking about it on FB but didn't know exactly what was going on.
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Good to hear! Glad you got him going. I saw some folks talking about it on FB but didn't know exactly what was going on.
The guy was driving a 2011 with less mile's then mine . I replaced the one in Odo but I'm going to order another for this 2011 .
We also figured out why spending more $$ for an actual code reader would help . NO cell service - No definitive clarification of the code . Jay still forgot to teach me how to use it !! :D
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Just ordered 2 CPS sensor's from Rockauto . Install a new one upon arrival then have a backup for the backup !
Still have new L/R cam sensor's in offroad bag .
 

C3NK0

Bought an X
Location
Rockville, MD
Just ordered 2 CPS sensor's from Rockauto . Install a new one upon arrival then have a backup for the backup !
Still have new L/R cam sensor's in offroad bag .
I just put an order for the crankshaft sensor, it's shipping from Laurel, MD

I need to address the passenger side Cam and of course the crankshaft sensor before my trip to New York. Hopefully arrives before Friday
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
I just put an order for the crankshaft sensor, it's shipping from Laurel, MD

I need to address the passenger side Cam and of course the crankshaft sensor before my trip to New York. Hopefully arrives before Friday
Ha, let me know if you need another immediate supply.
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
Thread bump to say thanks for answering my question about whether the crank position sensor has an o ring. Apparently not necessary. Neither my original one nor the replacement have one.
 
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