Bottobro's Build. Laura let's get SASSY

bottobro

I'm a pretty girl!
Supporting Member
Location
Long Island NY
Ya might be able to get away with using some no-hub ya got lying around from work.

Mine was pieced together from some Honda Accord scrap. I doubt I could reproduce it…

Thats what I figured, a 4x3 Fernco might squeeze around it. Plus I need to install the Volant still. I need some intake parts to convert whatever the past owner did to the intake
 

bottobro

I'm a pretty girl!
Supporting Member
Location
Long Island NY
ECXC 2018 was a blast as always. But what it sparked was for me to get my SAS rolling. That and finding my gas tank rotted out from stupid NY road salt.

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Starting the teardown of my Dana 44! Now the real fun starts
 

bottobro

I'm a pretty girl!
Supporting Member
Location
Long Island NY
Primed my ruffstuff diff cover after adding some LED shop lights to my garage.

This thing is beefy compared to the original

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bottobro

I'm a pretty girl!
Supporting Member
Location
Long Island NY
You start tearing down your d44?


...yes I have been hesitant on it until I was kinda fully educated on it. I didnt want to bend the wrong part or mess up the wrong screw. But yea today I tore down the driver side hub. Everything actually looked good on it though. The only pain I had was the locking hub bolts stripping out.
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I went to do the passenger side and every hex head stripped on me, so they all have to be drilled out. Figured I'd quit while I was ahead. Gotta pick up some parts cleaner and primer and paint. Order the new rotors, calipers, and maybe the new ring and pinion. Threw some paint on the diff cover and man gotta love the red

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Thinking now about my locker option and what route to take. I cant afford an arb so what other options are there?

P.s. will trade plumbing work/ plumbing fixtures for regearing lol
 

BEEFY

I Smile when Gasoline Can Freeze
Just something to try before drilling out all the stripped hex head hub bolts. Hammer a slightly larger torx bit into the hex head and try removing it that way. It has worked for me on quite a few stuck hub bolts. And use some heat if you can.
 

bottobro

I'm a pretty girl!
Supporting Member
Location
Long Island NY
Just something to try before drilling out all the stripped hex head hub bolts. Hammer a slightly larger torx bit into the hex head and try removing it that way. It has worked for me on quite a few stuck hub bolts. And use some heat if you can.

Nah no heat, I'll never use heat again after my tbar incident. I already ordered new ones to replace. I had 2 on the other hub that stripped and 5 on this one.
 

bottobro

I'm a pretty girl!
Supporting Member
Location
Long Island NY
Locker options anyone? I know the arb is the bees knees. I'm open to other suggestions or things people are running.

This is a trail rig but I do want to keep it pavement friendly for severe weather driving and trips to the beach
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Locker options anyone? I know the arb is the bees knees. I'm open to other suggestions or things people are running.

This is a trail rig but I do want to keep it pavement friendly for severe weather driving and trips to the beach

Few options.

Since hubs, you can run a lunchbox locker without too much trouble. If you need 4wd on the street you can just lock one hub. You'll have 3wd, but a lunchbox on the street is bad in the front.

Ox makes a cable operated locker.

http://www.ox-usa.com/78-dana-44

It's about the same price as the arb without the cost of air. If you already have a power tank or something it may be redundant to install a compressor.

If you have a compressor already, then just do the ARB.

Other option would be a Detroit Tru-Trac. It's not a 100% locker, it's a posi diff. But in the front it'd be almost like having a locker and still be 100%street friendly.
 

Riz98

Test Drive
Location
lemoore, ca
I would go with the Ox locker just due to the ease of operation. Even if the cable breaks on the trail you can lock the diff right at the axle. Break an air line or loose a compressor and your stuck replacing the air line if you have one or going without a locker for the rest of the trail. I currently run the ARB's front/rear but would go with the Ox Locker if I had to do it again.
 

bottobro

I'm a pretty girl!
Supporting Member
Location
Long Island NY
Still deciding on a locker. If I decide to go with ARB or OX it puts my SAS way back due to budget. The only way those will happen is if I can find some parts on facebook marketplace, letgo, or CL from some sap that abandoned a project or something. (I watch for parts almost every day)


Imma just put this here for safe keeping for others working on Dana 44s

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Hopefully today I get around to dismantling the other side of the axle. I just cant bring myself around in this heat lately. I sweat my balls off 5 days a week at work, and I cant bring myself to working in my hot garage in my time off.

I'll prob be ordering rotors and calipers today, and need to finish investigating gears. I am still at a stalemate between just putting 4.56 gears in the DANA and getting the SAS done, or just say ufck it and 5.13 the entire truck.


My head is spinning with all this and I like having my ducks in a row before spending money........ and I dont feel like ordering wrong parts thats all
 

bottobro

I'm a pretty girl!
Supporting Member
Location
Long Island NY
and another thing, if others can chime in. I see reg ring and pinion and thick ring an pinion. Is there a beneficial difference? Which ones can be ran in what aspect? I think it was 3.31 in the case currently, the next order will be gears so which one? I have so many thoughts on my mind during the week with work that by the time I get to thinking about this project all places are closed lol
 

bottobro

I'm a pretty girl!
Supporting Member
Location
Long Island NY
Alright shes finally apart. Those ball joints did not want to give up! I guess that's what 30 years does.

Next step is ordering gears. Probably going to wait for the weather to cool a bit for parts clean up and paint just so I can work with the garage door open
Holy rust!

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Bklyn.X

Skid Plates
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Brooklyn, NY
Locker options anyone? I know the arb is the bees knees. I'm open to other suggestions or things people are running.


This is a trail rig but I do want to keep it pavement friendly for severe weather driving and trips to the beach

IMHO ARB is the way. Mine is a RD116 I got along with the Yukon 5:13 R&P from a friend that decided not to go through with his SAS (bought a built Jeep instead). If you plan to run 35’s ya might as well put the 5:13’s in there with the locker.

You’re going want a Master install kit when you start putting it back together.

You’re going to need a TX-10 Front CV Flange Yoke and a drive shaft. I had my drive shaft made but if you search there are junk yard options that will save you much $.

I had to get new spindle studs, wheel bearings, bearing seals, Calipers w/ pads, hubs, lud studs, lug nuts, wheel spacers and brake lines. I had to upgrade my master cylinder...I could go on...

Are you going to upgrade the axle shafts or hold off on that?

What’s the plan for steering?

Is your H233 locked?

This is your last chance. After this, there is no turning back. You take the blue pill—the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pillyou stay in Wonderland, and I show you how deep the rabbit hole goes
 

bottobro

I'm a pretty girl!
Supporting Member
Location
Long Island NY
IMHO ARB is the way. Mine is a RD116 I got along with the Yukon 5:13 R&P from a friend that decided not to go through with his SAS (bought a built Jeep instead). If you plan to run 35’s ya might as well put the 5:13’s in there with the locker.

I'm still undecided about the locker. When that time comes and the money I have will kinda decide. But one things for sure I learned that do it right the first time.

You’re going want a Master install kit when you start putting it back together.

Yep that's on the list to get

You’re going to need a TX-10 Front CV Flange Yoke and a drive shaft. I had my drive shaft made but if you search there are junk yard options that will save you much $.

I know driveshats have been part of the equation that I am learning. I know I was going to need the yoke but still thanks for the info

I had to get new spindle studs, wheel bearings, bearing seals, Calipers w/ pads, hubs, lud studs, lug nuts, wheel spacers and brake lines. I had to upgrade my master cylinder...I could go on...
Master cylinder will be upgraded. Looking into the ram cylinder. The bearings that came out of my axle were actually in good shape. The only thing I'm needing is calipars, rotors, pads, and ball joints.

Are you going to upgrade the axle shafts or hold off on that?

If I can't find axle shafts for a decent price I'll run the originals for the time being. And save for RVC


What’s the plan for steering?

Ruffstuff 1ton steering.

is your H233 locked?

No, I've been running open open all these years. Haven't decided on this. I can always add later down the road.

This is your last chance. After this, there is no turning back. You take the blue pill—the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pillyou stay in Wonderland, and I show you how deep the rabbit hole goes

I think I took the red pill the min I started hanging with all you guys back at that northern exposure run.


I know there is still much to do and many parts to get. And I appreciate all the input.
 

Bklyn.X

Skid Plates
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Brooklyn, NY
bottobro said:
I know driveshafts have been part of the equation that I am learning…

Yeah, most guys I know got them from a junkyard. I ended up having one made; double cardan 1330 at the flange, 1310 at the yoke…pricey…



bottobro said:
Master cylinder will be upgraded. Looking into the ram cylinder.

I’ve heard that works. Our stock one did not instill any kind of confidence even after I removed all the ABS crap. I installed a Wilwood…pricey… Running new hard lines was a lot of fun…


bottobro said:
The only thing I'm needing is calipars, rotors, pads, and ball joints.

The rotors I had were good but the other stuff I got from rock auto. If ya want I can post up the links.

The locking hubs are good?


bottobro said:
If I can't find axle shafts for a decent price I'll run the originals for the time being. And save for RVC


If you plan to run the originals ya might want to carry a spare or two…especially if you’re running a locker.


bottobro said:
Ruffstuff 1ton steering.


Nice.


bottobro said:
No, I've been running open all these years. Haven't decided on this. I can always add later down the road.

So if you did go with an ARB you’d need to buy and install air, wiring and switches…something to consider when making your choice. I still would get an ARB but to be honest I’ve never run anything else.


That said, I might have a line on a H233 with 5:13’s and an ARB installed ready to go. It could be available in the spring. It would be “plug & play” so to speak. Just drop yours out, replace it with this, hook up the ARB to some air and your brake lines...away you go!
There’s another guy that’s got first dibbs but if he passes would you be interested?
 
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bottobro

I'm a pretty girl!
Supporting Member
Location
Long Island NY
That said, I might have a line on a H233 with 5:13’s and an ARB installed ready to go. It could be available in the spring. It would be “plug & play” so to speak. Just drop yours out, replace it with this, hook up the ARB to some air and your brake lines...away you go!
There’s another guy that’s got first dibbs but if he passes would you be interested?


Links are always helpful. I was just going to go all off rock auto.

Hubs were good, just need new hex head bolts for them. Warn premium hubs

I dont think the truck I got this off of had a lit of miles on it.

And this has sparked my interest. I would be interested since my schedule is looking like it's going to be a springtime swap
 

Bklyn.X

Skid Plates
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Brooklyn, NY
Here are part numbers (I can't seem to link to Rock Auto) I purchased for my 1989 Jeep Wagoner D44.

Calipers with pads L/R; 164208/164209

Nice and cheap with the core. Work great.

Ball joints (upper, ya need two); K8195T

Ball joints (Lower, ya need two); K8194T

Like I said, my rotors were good so did not get new.

My locking hubs were shot so got new...also WARN Premium. I did have to upgrade the hub gear so they would work with the RCV but otherwise they work fine. I was going to get the Yukon Hard Core but figure these are good enough and readily available "in stock" almost everywhere.
 

Monster85

Test Drive
Location
Morgantown Wv
ECXC 2018 was a blast as always. But what it sparked was for me to get my SAS rolling. That and finding my gas tank rotted out from stupid NY road salt.

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37698124_10156151486469821_8725772510513070080_o.jpg
37639543_10156151486364821_8363029554196905984_o.jpg
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37954470_10156164626894821_3621457063244201984_n.jpg



Starting the teardown of my Dana 44! Now the real fun starts

I just replaced the gas tank in mine as well. Awesome thread. This make me want to get rolling with mine.
 
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