1st Gen Brake Upgrade Megathread

StupidFish

Need Bigger Tires
Location
The moon
Even though I gain nothing from any of this, it's still a very interesting thread. I'm anxiously awaiting the conclusion!
As am I. Curious to see if there is any noticeable improvement over the stock setup. Never had any complaints about it before but hey, when stuff breaks its your chance to build back stronger.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
That's one of the reasons I'm doing this now. The the truck is in desperate need for a brake job. And why do maintenance when you can make things better.
 

Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
If getting a Harbor freight press get the 20 ton. It's fully welded not bolted like the other ones and has been very useful around the shop. Distributer bearings, transmission bearings or even just bending steel.

Good to see the project rolling right along. The savaged parts even look quite useable haven't been sitting for to long.

I don't know what the nut looks like but maybe a special tool can be fabricated from a cut socket welded to a pipe. It's the first I've heard of such nut being a problem.

It's a shame we all can't feel or witness the difference after.

Looks like a fun project.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I'm going to swing by the dealership and find out if they had any traction on that nut tool. I'll take some better pictures of it once I get there. I looked up the Harbor Freight 20 ton and it's on sale for 150. So I'll get that this week.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Update. Pathy axles are all stripped down and ready to remove the backing plates. Once removed I'm going to clean the entire assembly, cut off the rusted to crap dust shields and paint everything.

b152781ebafcee187b0705966f231235.jpg


I totally scored on the tool front. The shop manager at the dealership is super excited for this swap and has agreed to let me borrow the complete axle disassembly kit. Complete with the proper wrench for the nut and puller for the ABS ring and axle shaft.

Also, managed to shoot brake fluid into my left eye. So that was fun.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Also going to buy new parking brake cables for the X so that I can bench assemble everything on the X axles. I don't feel like messing with the parking brake and putting together a drum brake assembly behind the axle shaft while it's on the truck.

There's not a lot of room to work here.

c7b4c552d9f3489218aa7d38f6563ebb.jpg
 

NismoFire

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Smyrna, TN
Tag.


I chew through brake pads like nobody's business for some reason. Could be because I can't keep my foot out of it so downshifting isn't enough, could also be because I can't afford EBC brakes.





Oh haaaaaaaiiiiii.

That could be because your drums are not properly adjusted. If they're not doing their share of the stopping the fronts will wear faster.

Also, haii


...or the 3 of 4 caliper pins were seized. New brackets, pins, boots, and pads FTW. 200k miles, lots of PB and a hefty cheater bar because the impact wouldn't fit.



I'm curious why we never had rear discs to begin with. If the Pathy had it, why couldn't we?
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
...or the 3 of 4 caliper pins were seized. New brackets, pins, boots, and pads FTW. 200k miles, lots of PB and a hefty cheater bar because the impact wouldn't fit.



I'm curious why we never had rear discs to begin with. If the Pathy had it, why couldn't we?

Nice! New brakes always feel good.

And I don't know why we never got the disc brakes. Drums were still standard kit on the Pathy, but the SE 4x4 got discs.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I'm going to make a new thread just for the Pathy swap and link it back to here as a primary reference. There's just way too much going on with this swap to muddy up this thread with it.
 

Jbat

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Utah
'99 Dodge Ram 1500 master cylinder, larger bore, pushes and holds more fluid, bolts right to the stock mount and hooks the pedal the same one. Just a couple simple line adapters needed, on the front brake line you will need a m10x1.0 bubble flare to m10x1.0 inverted flare adapter and on the rear brake line you will need a m12x1.0 bubble flare to m10x1.0 inverted flare adapter. I haven't driven mine with it but other SAS guys have and prefer it over the stocker.
 
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Jbat

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Utah
updated post with necessary adapters, you may be able to get away without the bubble to inverted flare on the front line as it will screw in but it may not seal. I used an adapter just to be on the safe side.
 

Datvi

Test Drive
Location
Georgia
I think this is something we need.

This post will serve as a reference for anyone looking for brake upgrade information. I'll be linking to other threads where relevant as well as posting upgrade info to this thread.

If any SAS guys want to bring threads to my attention that are brake related, I'll add them in.

Front upgrades

Easy one is slotted rotors in the front. The rotors are already 11.14 inches in diameter. Which is plenty big enough to stop the truck. The reason for slotted rotors is that it allows the easier expulsion of heat and gasses produced by braking. So if you have to brake hard it allows the for less brake fade. There are also cross drilled options which puts little holes through the rotor, but to me those little holes are just something to fill with mud when wheeling. Then they're serving no purpose.

Front Xterra slotted rotors
- There are two different parts. Specific ones for left and right.
- Source: Rock Auto
- P/N: 12642063SL & 12642063SR
- Cost: $65.97 Each

We already have dual piston calipers. But, what if you want more stopping power?

96-04 Pathys have a 12" rotor and the same dual piston caliper. So that kind of move would necessitate 16" or larger wheels, but that may also be an option. Larger rotor == more stopping force.

The Z32 had a 4 piston caliper and almost identical rotor dimensions. I'm currently looking around to see the potential of a caliper upgrade. More pistons == more clamping force. If those calipers will work, they'd still fit under 15" wheels. I'll be ordering one of these soon and we'll see if they fit.

Another easy upgrade is stainless steel lines. The steel webbing over the rubber line prevents expansion of the line and ensures that all of the hydraulic pressure makes it to the actual brakes. The kit linked below covers the stock setup on the X. The longer rear line is required for anyone with a full 3" suspension lift in the rear and suggested for anyone with a PML using longer shackles.

IFS Xterra Stainless steel lines
- Source: 4x4Parts
- P/N: APSB00022
- Cost: $87.50
- Link

The picture just shows the rear line but the description reads all three w/ suspension lift. Thanks to SRStaff for pointing that out.
_____________________________________

Rear Pathy disc upgrade

I've made a How-to thread for the swap. It can be found here -> Pathfinder Disc Brake Swap How-To

This thread will include a full parts list and instructions on the swap. It's an involved process requiring special tools and some mechanical know-how.

______________________________________

Master Cylinder Upgrade

This one comes from the SAS side of things.

Credit to Jbat for the information.

1999 Dodge RAM 1500 master cylinder. Same bolt configuration, requires two line adapters, has a 1¼" bore, and larger reservoir. Stock X master cylinder only has a 1" bore. The larger bore pushes more fluid down the lines. Also, on the front brake line you will need a m10x1.0 bubble flare to m10x1.0 inverted flare adapter and on the rear brake line you will need a m12x1.0 bubble flare to m10x1.0 inverted flare adapter. Alternatively, you can cut and reflare with the appropriate flare nuts (if you're so inclined).

With going to rear disc, this may be a good upgrade as well and I will investigate further.

Part Specifics
99 Dodge RAM 1500 master cylinder
- Source: Rock Auto
- P/N: DORMAN M390426
- Cost: $40.79
Thanks for the great info! I want to upgrade my front brakes but couldn't find slotted rotors on Rock Auto with your part number. I know this post is from 2015 and these parts might not be available anymore, but if you have any updated part numbers, that would be a great help. Thanks in advance!
 

Pauly

Bought an X
Couple things I've found over the years...

My Z32 writeup here: DIY: 1st Gen Frontier/Xterra Big Brake Upgrade (from Z32/300ZX)

I did a couple version of the Z32 brakes on my 2000 Frontier, but I got better stopping power out of the stock Xterra calipers. The pad coverage is smaller on the Z32 4-piston brakes. notes.jpg


Some 1st gen Frontiers (honestly not sure exactly which ones...) had a different spindles/calipers and even smaller brakes. Even though the brakes were smaller, the mounting tabs were further out, so you can use the Z32 brakes and a 300mm rotor from the R50 Pathfinder on these spindles.


Using a 2000-2004 Xterra spindle, you can use the Z32 brakes and the 283mm rotor that's already on the Xterra; just have to use a sleeve on the caliper bolts because the caliper bolt bore in the spindle is 1 size up from the Z32 bolt size.
bolt sleeve.jpg

Master Cylinders
- There are a few different versions - early 1st gens got a weird MC with a weird dual cylinder thing going on... Not sure what to call it... Supposedly the bore is the same according to online sources, but both times I've done this swap, I get better braking power out of the Late model MC (2003-2004 Xterra/Frontier) compared to the Early model MCs.
MC Compare.jpg


Just a few notes, for posterity, even though this thread is 10 years old...
 
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