The Dumb Question Thread

ffxcores · Aug 2, 2021

How much thread does there need to be on a lug at minimum? For my spare, I bought the rotopax mount, which is a 1/4” plate that sits behind the spare. Problem is, the lugs on the rear tire carrier are minimal already, and they’re welded in so I can’t just replace them.

Measuring with a caliper, if I tighten the wheel down and then take one of the three lug nuts back off, I have about 6-7mm of lug available. I can get several full rotations with the ratchet to get it tight. Is that going to hold it?

My only potential workaround is to try and find a single wheel spacer with lugs built in, but that will rotate the rotopax holder, so the plate has to sit behind that and I may end up with the same issue.

Prime · Aug 3, 2021

That doesn't feel like enough. I mean it's what, ¼" max? (25.4mm/in, 6ish mm)

I don't think I'd trust it.

ffxcores · Aug 3, 2021

Prime said:
That doesn't feel like enough. I mean it's what, ¼" max? (25.4mm/in, 6ish mm)

I don't think I'd trust it.

Yeah, definitely not enough for a wheel in use, but still makes me nervous with the spare bouncing around offroad. I’ll have to price out a local welder putting longer bolts in (or nuts so I can change lengths) vs the $100 I spent on the plate.

Does the shrock rear carrier have bolts welded in or press studs?

IM1RU · Aug 3, 2021

I wouldn't mount roto pax there. It's too much weight cantilevered off the back. You'll wear out the hinge on your tire swing in a hurry.

ffxcores · Aug 3, 2021

IM1RU said:
I wouldn't mount roto pax there. It's too much weight cantilevered off the back. You'll wear out the hinge on your tire swing in a hurry.

I'll consider that, and yes hanging farther out will put more stress, but I think it's well within Dave's design specs. If it's made to support a 33" or larger LT tire, my stock size passenger tire weighs 20 pounds less, and sits closer to the hatch/trunk than a larger tire would. Just under three gallons of gas with the weight of the container should be at or below 20 pounds, and is maybe an inch or two at most farther out.

And I know for example @AlbatrossCafe has 35" tires and a hitch carrying bikes and stuff on the swing arm with the same hinge and has reported that after a couple years he's had no issues. My load, even cantilevered, is much less.

TerryD · Aug 3, 2021

ffxcores said:
Yeah, definitely not enough for a wheel in use, but still makes me nervous with the spare bouncing around offroad. I’ll have to price out a local welder putting longer bolts in (or nuts so I can change lengths) vs the $100 I spent on the plate.

Does the shrock rear carrier have bolts welded in or press studs?

Do you have pictures of the studs welded in?

ffxcores · Aug 3, 2021

TerryD said:
Do you have pictures of the studs welded in?

Will get one when I'm down there in a bit.

ffxcores · Aug 3, 2021

TerryD said:
Do you have pictures of the studs welded in?

@TerryD

TerryD · Aug 3, 2021

ffxcores said:
@TerryD
View attachment 19041

Easy. When you coming down?

outback97 · Aug 3, 2021

Got a wild hair idea to install a small aftermarket powered subwoofer under the seat.

My dumb question is if I can just remove this plastic duct from the HVAC system. And if so… what to plug it with, or where to redirect it.

I don’t care about any backseat passengers toe temperatures. No real need for air back there and if I remove this it’ll make a much easier flat area for install.

XterraRising · Aug 3, 2021

You could make a block off plate out of thin sheet steel and screw it on from the sides. Then epoxy the edges, maybe. My kids tell me that duct is utterly useless anyway. Might have something to do with the rubber floor mat I have back there. I was considering blocking it off myself to maybe make the air blow a bit harder at the dash.

AlbatrossCafe · Aug 4, 2021

ffxcores said:
I'll consider that, and yes hanging farther out will put more stress, but I think it's well within Dave's design specs. If it's made to support a 33" or larger LT tire, my stock size passenger tire weighs 20 pounds less, and sits closer to the hatch/trunk than a larger tire would. Just under three gallons of gas with the weight of the container should be at or below 20 pounds, and is maybe an inch or two at most farther out.

And I know for example @AlbatrossCafe has 35" tires and a hitch carrying bikes and stuff on the swing arm with the same hinge and has reported that after a couple years he's had no issues. My load, even cantilevered, is much less.

True, that is probably 75lbs of bike + bike rack, hanging out ~3 feet behind the spare. I have to tighten the hinge bolt semi-frequently (every few thousand miles?) as it starts to loosen up & the arm becomes out of alignment, but that only takes about 90 seconds.

IM1RU · Aug 4, 2021

ffxcores said:
but I think it's well within Dave's design specs.

Ah... Didn't know you had a MaxGear.

ffxcores · Aug 4, 2021

TerryD said:
Easy. When you coming down?

Many thanks. I’ll talk to you Saturday and see if we can work out some time. Although obviously welding is better, since the weld is just to hold them in place and not necessarily for strength, would there be any drawback to just doing JB Weld for the longer bolts? (Assuming the old ones cut out cleanly.)

TerryD · Aug 4, 2021

ffxcores said:
Many thanks. I’ll talk to you Saturday and see if we can work out some time. Although obviously welding is better, since the weld is just to hold them in place and not necessarily for strength, would there be any drawback to just doing JB Weld for the longer bolts? (Assuming the old ones cut out cleanly.)

I think we can come up with a better way than JB weld. I'll look at it Saturday.

ffxcores · Aug 4, 2021

TerryD said:
I think we can come up with a better way than JB weld. I'll look at it Saturday.

Sounds good! The other option would be to use the hi-lift mounting points and have the rotopax sit on the side of the spare. I’m not going to use it for a hi-lift.

Prime · Aug 8, 2021

Which UCA goes on which side? The PRG ones arent labeled like the OE stuff.

jsexton · Aug 8, 2021

Zack. said:
Front brake dust shields - are the needed? Finding conflicting info online. Anyone been running without them long term?

I took them off a while back. Got tired of rocks getting stuck in them. No issues.

jsexton · Aug 8, 2021

Prime said:
Which UCA goes on which side? The PRG ones arent labeled like the OE stuff.

Whichever way has the uniball closer to the rear of the wheel well

jsexton · Aug 8, 2021

This is apparently the best pic I have of them on

ffxcores · Aug 9, 2021

potentially dumb question: Does removal of the rear sway bar allow the axle to go lower? Or just allow it to do so easier/faster? I’m asking because as-is at full droop my brake lines are at their limit. I don’t want to find out the answer to the question myself by ripping out my brake lines.

Prime · Aug 9, 2021

No. you are limited by the arch of the spring/shackle setup and/or shock length on the droop.

The rear sway bar isn't big enough to limit articulation in the rear.

Eliminating the rear sway bar simply makes it easier and more comfortable for the axle to articulate.

Muadeeb · Aug 9, 2021

And prevents you from blowing out your right shock. Or was that only a 1st Gen problem?

ffxcores · Aug 9, 2021

Prime said:
No. you are limited by the arch of the spring/shackle setup and/or shock length on the droop.

The rear sway bar isn't big enough to limit articulation in the rear.

Eliminating the rear sway bar simply makes it easier and more comfortable for the axle to articulate.

Thanks. I’m gonna remove it. My leaf pack + Timbrens I think should make it so I don’t have to worry about anything body-roll wise (even with the RTT), but obviously I don’t want to rip out a brake line.

Prime · Aug 9, 2021

Muadeeb said:
And prevents you from blowing out your right shock. Or was that only a 1st Gen problem?

that was 1st gen problems.

Prime · Aug 9, 2021

ffxcores said:
Thanks. I’m gonna remove it. My leaf pack + Timbrens I think should make it so I don’t have to worry about anything body-roll wise (even with the RTT), but obviously I don’t want to rip out a brake line.

I'd change them for longer stainless lines just for insurance. and stainless lines all the brakes.

ffxcores · Aug 9, 2021

Prime said:
I'd change them for longer stainless lines just for insurance. and stainless lines all the brakes.

It never ends....

Prime · Aug 9, 2021

ffxcores said:
It never ends....

It absolutely does not. haha

ffxcores · Aug 9, 2021

The other question I have - for the AFE Power hi-tuck exhaust, will it degrade performance or sound weird if I drill a weep/drain hold in it? I've reached out to AFE but haven't heard back yet.

Prime · Aug 9, 2021

Don't drill holes in your exhaust. don't do it.

SledheadX · Aug 9, 2021

ffxcores said:
It never ends....

Prime said:
It absolutely does not. haha

Don’t we just LOOOOVE the rabbit hole??? Can we get another stimulus check please?

TerryD · Aug 9, 2021

ffxcores said:
The other question I have - for the AFE Power hi-tuck exhaust, will it degrade performance or sound weird if I drill a weep/drain hold in it? I've reached out to AFE but haven't heard back yet.

Drilling Borla S-Types was good idea....

www.allfordmustangs.com

In that thread, Borla actually recommended he do it and provided instructions.

Like we talked about, I still think it's a good idea.....

Prime · Aug 9, 2021

TerryD said:
Drilling Borla S-Types was good idea....

www.allfordmustangs.com

In that thread, Borla actually recommended he do it and provided instructions.

Like we talked about, I still think it's a good idea.....

Learn something new every day

TheCrabby1 · Aug 9, 2021

TerryD said:
Drilling Borla S-Types was good idea....

www.allfordmustangs.com

In that thread, Borla actually recommended he do it and provided instructions.

Like we talked about, I still think it's a good idea.....

The exhaust shop I use left a very small [ very-very small ] area un-welded at the bottom where flowmaster backend meet's tube and when I let Odo warmup you can always see a small spot from the exhaust condensation there. So unless your muffler/exhaust is all stainless It make's sense to me . Just my 2.5 cent's.

SledheadX · Aug 9, 2021

TheCrabby1 said:
The exhaust shop I use left a very small [ very-very small ] area un-welded at the bottom where flowmaster backend meet's tube and when I let Odo warmup you can always see a small spot from the exhaust condensation there. So unless your muffler/exhaust is all stainless It make's sense to me . Just my 2.5 cent's.

Ok, now you’re hiking up your prices too? But doesn’t that muffler already have a weep hole on the bottom at the back end?

TheCrabby1 · Aug 9, 2021

SledheadX said:
Ok, now you’re hiking up your prices too? But doesn’t that muffler already have a weep hole on the bottom at the back end?

Looked to me like they left a spot un-welded . But next time I'm under/looking around I'll put the cheater's on and verify . I figured I'd get a half cent rebate since everything give's you one now-a-day's so why not charge more ??

ffxcores · Aug 9, 2021

TerryD said:
Drilling Borla S-Types was good idea....

www.allfordmustangs.com

In that thread, Borla actually recommended he do it and provided instructions.

Like we talked about, I still think it's a good idea.....

Yeah I found that in my searching around. I reached out to AFE today just to see what they’d say. I’ll post if I get a response. Even though it’s stainless, it goes up pretty high after the muffler and with the humidity here and how much water I see from my exhaust now, I don’t want all that water making it back forward after I stop.

Unless AFE tells me it’s going to horribly degrade performance or something I’m going to do it.

ffxcores · Aug 9, 2021

Where the heck can I find stock length front stainless brake lines? 4x4parts, Nisstec, ADO, Bilsteinlifts, and I even checked PRG and no dice.

Zack. · Aug 9, 2021

I believe goodridge makes them in stock and extended lengths. I’m not sure where a good place to buy them is though.

Prime · Aug 9, 2021

ffxcores said:
Where the heck can I find stock length front stainless brake lines? 4x4parts, Nisstec, ADO, Bilsteinlifts, and I even checked PRG and no dice.

Crown Performance: Stainless Steel Brake Lines - Braided Hoses for Cars, Trucks & SUV

Crown Performance home of the Kevlar reinforced stainless steel brake line and brake hose.

www.crownperformance.com

You might have to call them. But they're fantastic.

The Dumb Question Thread

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