The Dumb Question Thread

ffxcores

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
TerryD said:
Well, try this: Turn the radio on and the lights. Disconnect the antenna connector on the radio. If the static goes away, it's RF coming in from the coax or antenna. If it doesn't, it's coming in on the DC line.
Click to expand...
I disconnected and no static. Plugged it back in and... no static. Then I got static after turning both sets of lights off then back on. Now if I turn on just the front I get two bars reception (as if receiving), then turning on the back creates static.

If I turn squelch up to 6 I get no static at all. But with the handheld I can tap the lights (turned on) with the antenna and no static or any blips. I’m wondering if either the antenna or antenna mount is not properly installed or functioning. It seems like it has no resistance at all to interference. I’m going to pull out the magnet mount antenna tomorrow and try that out as well.
 
ffxcores

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Prime said:
GROUNDS! ADD MORE GROUNDS! GROUND ALL THE THINGS!
Click to expand...
Since it's painted, the only real ground is the little set screws that pierce through the paint. I tried tightening those more yesterday and it just pushed the bracket away. Maybe I'll grind down a couple spots and put a separate ground cable and see if that helps.
 
29erClan

29erClan

Bought an X
Location
Meh
Besides grounds and LEDs (any crappy power regulator), you may want to look into putting ferrite chokes in key places.

More info:
https://www.kf7p.com/KF7P/Tech_Resources.html

They might actually help with the tail light LED if the rfi is mostly feedback through it's wiring. Snap a choke at the connector - filter out the noise heading out that "antenna" it gets powered by.

Like Terry said, you gotta experiment a lot to find the sources. Last year-ish my 10yo spark plug coils were throwing massive rfi. Only solution is to replace them.

What size ferrite and how many coils depends on what is causing the rfi and what frequency range you want to limit. GMRS is around 450Mhz I thought, but I don't use it and am not sure.

Are your roof lights LEDs?
 
ffxcores

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
29erClan said:
Besides grounds and LEDs (any crappy power regulator), you may want to look into putting ferrite chokes in key places.

More info:
https://www.kf7p.com/KF7P/Tech_Resources.html

They might actually help with the tail light LED if the rfi is mostly feedback through it's wiring. Snap a choke at the connector - filter out the noise heading out that "antenna" it gets powered by.

Like Terry said, you gotta experiment a lot to find the sources. Last year-ish my 10yo spark plug coils were throwing massive rfi. Only solution is to replace them.

What size ferrite and how many coils depends on what is causing the rfi and what frequency range you want to limit. GMRS is around 450Mhz I thought, but I don't use it and am not sure.

Are your roof lights LEDs?
Click to expand...
They are all LEDs, yes. Diode Dynamics SS3 in front and SS C2 in the back.

I may order some ferrites to try, but I think first I need to make an actual ground. I’m considering relocating the antenna anyway to not interfere with the RTT so I have some figuring to do.
 
Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
meisanerd said:
I might have to do this. And add a better ground to the head unit. Keep getting a stupid squeal in the rear speakers when the RPMs go up...
Click to expand...
My squeal is gone. But I still have the random wandering static. It picks a speaker and starts a static noise that ends in a pop and then goes quiet. I thought the amp was going bad. But now with the extra ground I'm wondering if it's the head unit that's producing it.
 
meisanerd

meisanerd

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Edmonton, AB, Canada
Prime said:
My squeal is gone. But I still have the random wandering static. It picks a speaker and starts a static noise that ends in a pop and then goes quiet. I thought the amp was going bad. But now with the extra ground I'm wondering if it's the head unit that's producing it.
Click to expand...
Mine sqeals out the right rear speaker, pitch is directly tied to rpm. Not sure if it is a bad ground, bad ground-loop isolator, or bad head unit. And I've been too lazy to try to track it down. Also, winter in Canada and I don't have a heated garage...
 
ffxcores

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
My roof top tent was marketed as not needing an anti-condensation mat, but it clearly does. I need two things — air flow and insulation. The mattress is a 3” dense foam.
My solution is hypervent (air flow) and a layer of reflectix insulation.

The million dollar question: do I put the reflectix on the floor (fiberglass/aluminum) with hypervent above then the mattress? Or hypervent first then the reflectix?

The reflectix first I can see insulating and working with the air pocket formed by the hypervent to increase R-value, and hopefully keep the area directly under the mattress from reaching the dew point. But if the air flow is working like it should and venting the tent, the dew point might be reached anyway, in which case the air flow might still dry it out.

If hypervent first and the reflectix against the mattress, I’d worry the reflectix would act as a moisture barrier and there would just be condensation between it and the mattress. With no air gap, the R-value is very low on that side.

Anybody have additional insight?
 
ffxcores

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Anybody changed out their bump stops? Seems like the consensus is the bolts will shear off due to rust, but it's pretty easy to knock out the nut and replace with new nut and bolt. But what size/length? I'm going with Timbren if that matters.
 
1

11ORX

Test Drive
Location
South Dakota
I was able to keep the stock bolts when I installed Firestone airbags on my 2011 (one of the mounting plates is sandwiched between the bump stops and the frame), but when I swapped out the airbags for Timbren bump stops I broke one of the bolts and decided to replace all of them. The stock nuts are only tack welded to the frame and are easy to knock off with a hammer and cold chisel. A big flathead screwdriver would probably work as well. My Timbrens came with new mounting bolts that fit just fine.
 
IM1RU

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
ffxcores said:
Anybody changed out their bump stops? Seems like the consensus is the bolts will shear off due to rust, but it's pretty easy to knock out the nut and replace with new nut and bolt. But what size/length? I'm going with Timbren if that matters.
Click to expand...
Yep, Yep, and Yep

3/8" or 1/2" grade 8 I don't remember which, whatever fits

If you clean out the dirt, douche with PB Blaster for days ahead of time, use some heat, and do the loosen / tighten / loosen method, you can sometimes get them out without breaking them.
 
ffxcores

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
11ORX said:
I was able to keep the stock bolts when I installed Firestone airbags on my 2011 (one of the mounting plates is sandwiched between the bump stops and the frame), but when I swapped out the airbags for Timbren bump stops I broke one of the bolts and decided to replace all of them. The stock nuts are only tack welded to the frame and are easy to knock off with a hammer and cold chisel. A big flathead screwdriver would probably work as well. My Timbrens came with new mounting bolts that fit just fine.
Click to expand...

IM1RU said:
Yep, Yep, and Yep

3/8" or 1/2" grade 8 I don't remember which, whatever fits

If you clean out the dirt, douche with PB Blaster for days ahead of time, use some heat, and do the loosen / tighten / loosen method, you can sometimes get them out without breaking them.
Click to expand...

thanks guys. I was debating whether it was really a “dumb” question and then after reading this I went back and looked at the product description and it does come with new hardware included. Verified dumb question.
 
AlbatrossCafe

AlbatrossCafe

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Western WA
Wtf is happening with this CV boot? This is the inner on my passenger side. I found it recently during an oil change. There was some oily stuff on my skid plate... I'm wondering if maybe it came out of the inner joint? Do you think it could have squeezed some grease out?

BKf56jE.jpg
ZywqVwg.jpg
 
AlbatrossCafe

AlbatrossCafe

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Western WA
IM1RU said:
You've blown the CV.
Click to expand...

Nooo.... I do occasionally hear a weird clicking in 4wd, but it is intermittent and I don't seem to have any reduced 4wd functionality. That sucks. I'm guessing the joint is caved in or something in there which is why the boot looks sucked in?
 
Last edited:
Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
AlbatrossCafe said:
Wtf is happening with this CV boot? This is the inner on my passenger side. I found it recently during an oil change. There was some oily stuff on my skid plate... I'm wondering if maybe it came out of the inner joint? Do you think it could have squeezed some grease out?

BKf56jE.jpg
ZywqVwg.jpg
Click to expand...
Yeah. Das broke.
 
1L19

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
My current stupid question... I am trying to develop a list of spare parts I should carry with me but all I can find for the X is a "serpentine" belt. Is that really the only belt I'd need to car for backup?

Thank you!
 
Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
The 1st Gen is a single belt. As far as other spare parts...

U-joints for the driveshaft, at least one half shaft, at least one OE auto hub (a junk yard pull to be sure). That's really all that can break on a 1st Gen that you can repair in the field.
 
1L19

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
Prime said:
The 1st Gen is a single belt. As far as other spare parts...

U-joints for the driveshaft, at least one half shaft, at least one OE auto hub (a junk yard pull to be sure). That's really all that can break on a 1st Gen that you can repair in the field.
Click to expand...
My new baby is a 2015 so I'm guessing that's second generation. Changing a CV shaft in the field? I could probably do that if I'd done it once at home. Both the u-joints an the half shaft added to my review list. Thank you very much!
 
Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
1L19 said:
My new baby is a 2015 so I'm guessing that's second generation. Changing a CV shaft in the field? I could probably do that if I'd done it once at home. Both the u-joints an the half shaft added to my review list. Thank you very much!
Click to expand...
There's been times that I've been too drunk to tell posts apart. So you right. Let's. Regroup tomorrow.
 
1L19

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
Prime said:
And I might have been answering 1st Gen stuff all day. So. I have it on the brain.
Click to expand...
Brother have I been there... last night after an 11 hour day I deployed my production code straight into the development space. It took me 3 hours to figure out why my changes weren't showing. Thankfully I work from home so a quick smoke straightened me out in the end. Thank you for taking your time to help even if you are too drunk to tell a 1 from a 2. :)
 
1L19

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
Zack. said:
spark plug, ignition coil, both cam sensors, crank sensor, tools needed to change all of the above.
Click to expand...
Thank you Zack good stuff right there. I'm also building my toolkit from a bunch of separate posts. I would like to have all of the tools I need to address issues in the field as well as enough common tools to be helpful if needed. If there is a quality "master X tool list" somewhere I would be most interested. Maybe I should try that "search" thing?
 
1L19

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
What "size" bottle jack should I buy? 3, 4, 8,10,12 or 20 tons? I don't really know the multiplier. The internet says the gross weight is 5,399 lbs, multiplied by 2x and you get 10,798 divided by 2000 lbs and you get 5.4 tons. But I don't know if the multiplier is 2x, 10x or whatever?

Please oh gobbles of stupid questions... please set me straight.
 
CAchief

CAchief

First Fill-Up (of many)
1L19 said:
What "size" bottle jack should I buy? 3, 4, 8,10,12 or 20 tons? I don't really know the multiplier. The internet says the gross weight is 5,399 lbs, multiplied by 2x and you get 10,798 divided by 2000 lbs and you get 5.4 tons. But I don't know if the multiplier is 2x, 10x or whatever?

Please oh gobbles of stupid questions... please set me straight.
Click to expand...

Pretty sure the general consensus for the X is a 6 ton bottle jack.
 
Xterrorista

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
1L19 said:
Thank you Zack good stuff right there. I'm also building my toolkit from a bunch of separate posts. I would like to have all of the tools I need to address issues in the field as well as enough common tools to be helpful if needed. If there is a quality "master X tool list" somewhere I would be most interested. Maybe I should try that "search" thing?
Click to expand...

TerryD said:
Make sure you get Hitachi or Nissan sensors. Varied results with aftermarket parts, mostly bad.
Click to expand...
Prime said:
U-joints for the driveshaft, at least one half shaft
Click to expand...
Man.. I've so meant to make a kit with sensors and underhood /drivetrain specific parts 'n tools and corresponding Uboob videos saved to my phone.

I'm putting this back on my soon-to-do-list..
 
1L19

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
Another dumb question. I found these at the bottom of my toolbox so they must be my Dad's. I have no idea what they are though they resemble trimming scissors but too big. Anyone?

IMG_20210412_194239514.jpg IMG_20210412_194254889.jpg
 
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