The Strengths (and Pitfalls) Of Bilstein 5100's

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Yes, the zero to 2 inch lift design does appear to be misleading advertising.

But for a stock height set up, the 5100s seem to work well. Are there shocks that would work better for a stock height set up?

4600s from a Pro4X if you aren't adding heavier spring rates. Valved pretty much identical to 5100s but don't have the adjustable spring seat.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
20200502_134343.jpg 20200502_134409.jpg 20200502_134401.jpg So my coil springs are 500# not 650# and All Dogs thinks the shocks might not be put together correctly and thinks it's a washer or gromet missing for it to be making clanking noises.

He assured me after more than 2yrs of these coils and 5100s it's not the 5100 topping out...
 
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westslope

Wheeling
4600s from a Pro4X if you aren't adding heavier spring rates. Valved pretty much identical to 5100s but don't have the adjustable spring seat.

Well, the B6 4600 rears are $10 less expensive and the B6 4600 fronts are ~$50 less expensive than the B8 5100 equivalents (using RockAuto.com).

Where can I find the technical specifications for these shocks? I see the MSDS sheets on the bilstein.com/us/en site but no technical specifications.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Well, the B6 4600 rears are $10 less expensive and the B6 4600 fronts are ~$50 less expensive than the B8 5100 equivalents (using RockAuto.com).

Where can I find the technical specifications for these shocks? I see the MSDS sheets on the bilstein.com/us/en site but no technical specifications.
If you are looking for valving info I called Bilstein about it once and they wouldn't release that information.
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
Yes, the zero to 2 inch lift design does appear to be misleading advertising.

But for a stock height set up, the 5100s seem to work well. Are there shocks that would work better for a stock height set up?

The first time I replaced the shocks on mine was going from the factory non-Bilsteins to the Bilstein 4600's keeping the stock coil and I thought they were great. I really didn't have any complaints at all except the coils had sagged quite a bit over the years (they had over 100k on them), even with the sag the ride quality was fine. I have the stock bumper and no winch or anything up front so it makes sense that the weight was handled pretty well by them I guess. That's the main reason I decided to order the OE coils for mine this time around, they're pricey but at least last time around I had no complaints and got way more mileage out of them than the moogs.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Do you have any pictures of the lower spring seat?
I just got off the phone for the 2nd time with All Dogs and they're pretty sure the shop didn't use a piece or maybe assembled them wrong. He mentioned there not being enuff pooch to the bushings on the top end and wanted to know how much threading I had on the top bolt.
20200502_134355.jpg
20200502_160002.jpg
I pulled the nipple off the bolt for this pic. He said if I had 1/2-3/4" of threads that it was bottomed out and the shop forgot something or did something wrong...
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
I just got off the phone for the 2nd time with All Dogs and they're pretty sure the shop didn't use a piece or maybe assembled them wrong. He mentioned there not being enuff pooch to the bushings on the top end and wanted to know how much threading I had on the top bolt.
View attachment 13992
View attachment 13994
I pulled the nipple off the bolt for this pic. He said if I had 1/2-3/4" of threads that it was bottomed out and the shop forgot something or did something wrong...

Looks to me like they might have left out the bottom washer.
 

westslope

Wheeling
If you are looking for valving info I called Bilstein about it once and they wouldn't release that information.
Good to know. So all these descriptions of 'valving' I am reading on the boards are qualitative assessments by enthusiasts?

I kept looking and wound up in the lifted trucks/SUV 2020 Bilstein catalogue. The B8 5100s, B8 6112 and B8 5160s are recommended for 2nd generation Xterras. The B6 4600s are recommended for 1st generation Xterras with a 0-3" front lift and a 0-2" rear lift.

Curious that B6 4600s are recommended for stock 2nd generation Xterras and for lifted 1st generation Xterras. I am assuming for the moment that the two are valved almost identically and both are just as durable.

Judging from the descriptions, I am surprised that the B8 6112 and B8 5160s are not more popular with off-roaders.
 

westslope

Wheeling
TerryD said:
If you are looking for valving info I called Bilstein about it once and they wouldn't release that information.
Same, I don't remember the reason but it was something about it being a custom application.

Sharing that information might reduce Bilstein's market power (pricing power). Price discrimination strategies -- all firms use them for manufactured products -- are to some extent based on barriers to information.

Be thankful this is the case as otherwise, companies would have far less resources for innovation. Earning 'economic rents' (above market rate profits) is typically a very good thing. Companies will invest considerable resources in order to maintain and protect that profit flow.

I am an economist by training, I love freemarket capitalism and do apologize to those of you who might be offended.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Good to know. So all these descriptions of 'valving' I am reading on the boards are qualitative assessments by enthusiasts?

I kept looking and wound up in the lifted trucks/SUV 2020 Bilstein catalogue. The B8 5100s, B8 6112 and B8 5160s are recommended for 2nd generation Xterras. The B6 4600s are recommended for 1st generation Xterras with a 0-3" front lift and a 0-2" rear lift.

Curious that B6 4600s are recommended for stock 2nd generation Xterras and for lifted 1st generation Xterras. I am assuming for the moment that the two are valved almost identically and both are just as durable.

Judging from the descriptions, I am surprised that the B8 6112 and B8 5160s are not more popular with off-roaders.
According to my conversation with Bilstein the 4600s and 5100s are different valving but it's because the 5100s are valved to act like the 4600s when you've lifted the vehicle. I don't know what that actually means but it's what the tech on the phone said to me...
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Update on the 5100 issues I was having.

I found out after pulling the coil and springs back apart that the top hats/top strut mounts were worn out and cracked...figures being original at 214k miles. I wonder if it was from having heavier lift springs (2", 500#) and those mounts being the next weakest link..? We got the OEM parts from Napa for $21/ea and had them back together in under an hour.

The ride is much, much better and is close to stock feeling again with just a bit of slop in the wheel at ~70. I still have both sway bars on and plan to test pulling those soon and then getting off road..
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
Just realized I should probably put my 5100 update here as well to keep the thread a good info source. The problem I was having with a crap ride was resolved by replacing the old Moog coil with an OE Nissan (Part Number: 54010-EA061) coil, dropping the preload to 0 and using a spacer to regain lift.

What I found during the coil swap was that the Moog coils were binding to the point where it was so often/harsh that the snap rings were both on the verge of failing from the impacts being transferred to them once the coil couldn't compress anymore. On one side as soon as the weight was off the coil the ring just completely fell off under the truck and rolled away, the other side had maybe an inch or so of ring still attached to the shock body but was severely bent. Thankfully caught this in a parking lot at home, considering I'd driven 1000 miles/15 hours across the country the day it could have been worse.

Here are some pics of the original rings next to a set of spares I bought:
j5OVbk8.jpg

ANWmdDo.jpg


And here's the side with the ring still attached:
YTjNwvR.jpg
 

Survey20

Test Drive
I got the Alldogs bilstein 5100 kit with Broverland leaf springs and the medium coil spring.
Sort of worried about my choice after reading this thread lol
I’ve got the 4 shocks and front coil springs in. Waiting on one bolt to finish installing the leafs and I’ll see how it rides.
 

scoyoc

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Fort Collins, CO
I got the Alldogs bilstein 5100 kit with Broverland leaf springs and the medium coil spring.
Sort of worried about my choice after reading this thread lol
I’ve got the 4 shocks and front coil springs in. Waiting on one bolt to finish installing the leafs and I’ll see how it rides.

You know, I actually think they are pretty good if you are not trying to push too far beyond stock. I'll be interested to hear what you think after you hit a couple trails and get a feel for the new setup.
 

Survey20

Test Drive
You know, I actually think they are pretty good if you are not trying to push too far beyond stock. I'll be interested to hear what you think after you hit a couple trails and get a feel for the new setup.

Well that’s good, but what do you mean when you write “not trying to push it too far beyond stock?”

As in, the lift height? Or like performance wise while I’m out on the trails?

I got the 2” lift coil springs and the 2” lift leaf packs. Needed to replace all my old stuff and this seemed like a decent upgrade with a slight lift. Hoping it rides nice on and off-road as I take this puppy to work everyday on highway.
 

scoyoc

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Fort Collins, CO
Well that’s good, but what do you mean when you write “not trying to push it too far beyond stock?”

As in, the lift height? Or like performance wise while I’m out on the trails?

I got the 2” lift coil springs and the 2” lift leaf packs. Needed to replace all my old stuff and this seemed like a decent upgrade with a slight lift. Hoping it rides nice on and off-road as I take this puppy to work everyday on highway.

From what I gather (mostly here and that other Xterra forum, and not having personally test other options...) is that 5100's on the front don't preform well with heaver spring rates. I think we discussed that earlier in this thread. So, if your spring rate is similar to stock you will be happy. I can only guess that the medium spring rate you chose is close to stock.

I'm mostly happy with mine. Generally they ride nice on and off pavement. I think I'm getting some extra wheel lift in more rugged terrain because of my spring perch setting, 1-inch, which is pre-loading my spring to give me the lift. The pre-loaded spring is then limiting my up-travel, and causing front wheels to lift off the ground. Honestly, it only happens in really rugged terrain when I max out my articulation. So not a big deal really.
 

Survey20

Test Drive
From what I gather (mostly here and that other Xterra forum, and not having personally test other options...) is that 5100's on the front don't preform well with heaver spring rates. I think we discussed that earlier in this thread. So, if your spring rate is similar to stock you will be happy. I can only guess that the medium spring rate you chose is close to stock.

I'm mostly happy with mine. Generally they ride nice on and off pavement. I think I'm getting some extra wheel lift in more rugged terrain because of my spring perch setting, 1-inch, which is pre-loading my spring to give me the lift. The pre-loaded spring is then limiting my up-travel, and causing front wheels to lift off the ground. Honestly, it only happens in really rugged terrain when I max out my articulation. So not a big deal really.

ah okay I understand. I did read that earlier about extra spring Weight and 5100 performance.
These springs are rated “+100lbs”,
But I’m not sure if that means 100 over stock, or able to handle 100lbs extra constant load.

either way, I got the leaf springs in today and I’ll see how everything rides to and from work for a while until I can get off pavement.
Oh and my 5100’s are set at the lowest setting. No spacer or anything.
Hoping everything performs better than my stock shocks and leafs that had 140k
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
@Survey20 did you get extended length 5100s for the rear to accommodate the lift from the new leaf pack? I have new 5100s all around with ADO coils in the front and it's been great on and off the road. Very happy several months later. In the rear I did add-a-leaf though. If ADO had their leaf packs back then I would've done that.
 

Survey20

Test Drive
@Survey20 did you get extended length 5100s for the rear to accommodate the lift from the new leaf pack? I have new 5100s all around with ADO coils in the front and it's been great on and off the road. Very happy several months later. In the rear I did add-a-leaf though. If ADO had their leaf packs back then I would've done that.

I actually don’t know. I’m assuming they’re extended? It doesn’t say in their website which model # they are.
I got exactly 2” of lift in the back and I think 2” in the front, but I didn’t measure the front before install.

I’m not seeing any issue with the rear sway bar either. I know people have relocate kits for that as the shock can rub. Maybe I just haven’t had the full extension yet though To hit it
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
I actually don’t know. I’m assuming they’re extended? It doesn’t say in their website which model # they are.
I got exactly 2” of lift in the back and I think 2” in the front, but I didn’t measure the front before install.

I’m not seeing any issue with the rear sway bar either. I know people have relocate kits for that as the shock can rub. Maybe I just haven’t had the full extension yet though To hit it

If you got them from ADO they're likely good. I bought mine separate and had to specify the length. I think they're technically the 5100 for the Frontier stock.

I did the rear sway relocate from here: https://www.bilsteinlifts.com/shop/...-relocation-kit-fk42-nissan-xterra-2005-2018/ but it was $34.99 and free shipping back in March. I'm not sure if I *needed* it but I figured why wonder.
 

Survey20

Test Drive
Nic
If you got them from ADO they're likely good. I bought mine separate and had to specify the length. I think they're technically the 5100 for the Frontier stock.

I did the rear sway relocate from here: https://www.bilsteinlifts.com/shop/...-relocation-kit-fk42-nissan-xterra-2005-2018/ but it was $34.99 and free shipping back in March. I'm not sure if I *needed* it but I figured why wonder.
nice, thanks for the link. I’ll check it out to see if will need that or not.
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
I actually don’t know. I’m assuming they’re extended? It doesn’t say in their website which model # they are.
I got exactly 2” of lift in the back and I think 2” in the front, but I didn’t measure the front before install.

I’m not seeing any issue with the rear sway bar either. I know people have relocate kits for that as the shock can rub. Maybe I just haven’t had the full extension yet though To hit it


The extended versions are the 5125 model, the 5100's an extra inch so with your lift you should be good. I didn't need to swap my 5100's for the 5125's until I lifted into the 3-4 inch range. You'll know if you need them because the rear will top out and clunk over stuff like speedbumps where the rear gets fully extended.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Well, I was just about to order the performance leaf packs from ADO and bored on break last night I looked at CL first.

I'm meeting a fellow Xer tonight to p/u some factory take offs with low mileage and just had add a leafs put on them. He lucked into a set of Alcans..

100$ vs 900$, ALL DAY LONG. I'll upgrade later if needed. Now I can spend that dough on TLC for the other vehicles.
 

Survey20

Test Drive
The extended versions are the 5125 model, the 5100's an extra inch so with your lift you should be good. I didn't need to swap my 5100's for the 5125's until I lifted into the 3-4 inch range. You'll know if you need them because the rear will top out and clunk over stuff like speedbumps where the rear gets fully extended.
Ah okay, great. Thanks for the info.

random question - do either of you have aN after market rear differential cover? My stock cover is raggedly dirty, I’d like a little more protection and honestly just an excuse to pull it, clean it and paint it, and add a cover.
I saw a shrock brand that looked decent, but wasn’t sure if it actually did anything or not.
 

Survey20

Test Drive
Well, I was just about to order the performance leaf packs from ADO and bored on break last night I looked at CL first.

I'm meeting a fellow Xer tonight to p/u some factory take offs with low mileage and just had add a leafs put on them. He lucked into a set of Alcans..

100$ vs 900$, ALL DAY LONG. I'll upgrade later if needed. Now I can spend that dough on TLC for the other vehicles.
Well, I was just about to order the performance leaf packs from ADO and bored on break last night I looked at CL first.

I'm meeting a fellow Xer tonight to p/u some factory take offs with low mileage and just had add a leafs put on them. He lucked into a set of Alcans..

100$ vs 900$, ALL DAY LONG. I'll upgrade later if needed. Now I can spend that dough on TLC for the other vehicles.

nice, I’d take that savings anyday.
Great find
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Ah okay, great. Thanks for the info.

random question - do either of you have aN after market rear differential cover? My stock cover is raggedly dirty, I’d like a little more protection and honestly just an excuse to pull it, clean it and paint it, and add a cover.
I saw a shrock brand that looked decent, but wasn’t sure if it actually did anything or not.
I have the shrockworks diff cover but it's for the M226 I plan to swap for my c200. It looks hella strong and heavy, should be a bunch of extra protection.

I've got the 2-4" 5100s in the rear with nisstec 2" shackles at the 2" lift setting. Old leaves with new shocks and shackles and I'm still at 2" of increased height after about 4 months. I didn't need to deal with bumpstops or brake lines yet with that amount of lift.
 

Survey20

Test Drive
I have the shrockworks diff cover but it's for the M226 I plan to swap for my c200. It looks hella strong and heavy, should be a bunch of extra protection.

I've got the 2-4" 5100s in the rear with nisstec 2" shackles at the 2" lift setting. Old leaves with new shocks and shackles and I'm still at 2" of increased height after about 4 months. I didn't need to deal with bumpstops or brake lines yet with that amount of lift.

cool, I’ve got the m226 in back and I was leaning towards the shrock cover. I’ve seen some other designs. Just wasn’t sure what to go with
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
cool, I’ve got the m226 in back and I was leaning towards the shrock cover. I’ve seen some other designs. Just wasn’t sure what to go with
I like it but have zero experience with them on anything. I have seen several pics of busted diffs from sliding into rocks so when I came across a nice "coopin'" from them I ordered a bumper, some skids and the diff cover last blk Friday I think..
 

Survey20

Test Drive
I like it but have zero experience with them on anything. I have seen several pics of busted diffs from sliding into rocks so when I came across a nice "coopin'" from them I ordered a bumper, some skids and the diff cover last blk Friday I think..
Wait, you ordered those items last November and don’t have them yet??
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
No they're on the truck. Haha, it did take about 4-5 months tho.. I just haven't gotten the M226 yet so that's still patiently waiting..
 

Survey20

Test Drive
Oh
No they're on the truck. Haha, it did take about 4-5 months tho.. I just haven't gotten the M226 yet so that's still patiently waiting..
ohh I understand. you have the shrock gear and differential cover, but haven’t hit anything with it before, if I’m understanding you correctly. You like it otherwise though right?
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
I have the Shrock cover on a C200. I feel much better with it on there. I'm jealous of you guys with the M226 because you can get a complete replacement instead of just armor and they make LubeLocker for your diff.

You can see my Shrock cover in a few different spots in this video:
View: https://youtu.be/RMacxunCGbw
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
ohh I understand. you have the shrock gear and differential cover, but haven’t hit anything with it before, if I’m understanding you correctly. You like it otherwise though right?
The SW bumper, tcase n rad skids are on and I like how they look..

I'm still looking at the diff cover sitting in the corner of the dining room because I'm waiting for an M226 and matching r180 in 3.69.

Once someone I know upgrades I'll be swapping axles for the locker and better gear set..
 

Glenlivet

Test Drive
Well that’s good, but what do you mean when you write “not trying to push it too far beyond stock?”

As in, the lift height? Or like performance wise while I’m out on the trails?

I got the 2” lift coil springs and the 2” lift leaf packs. Needed to replace all my old stuff and this seemed like a decent upgrade with a slight lift. Hoping it rides nice on and off-road as I take this puppy to work everyday on highway.

I just ordered the same kit for my 2010 AT/S. The original suspension still feels okay, but the dirt shrouds on the rear shocks rusted through and there's a layer of crud on top of the seals that made me think it was only a question of time. AllDogOffroad said I needed either shackles to raise the rear to match the height gain up front...or new leafs. With that many miles on the truck I opted for the ADO BrOverland leaf pack. Should be fine for dirt road exploring in our little town that has just one paved road.

From what I gather (mostly here and that other Xterra forum, and not having personally test other options...) is that 5100's on the front don't preform well with heaver spring rates. I think we discussed that earlier in this thread. So, if your spring rate is similar to stock you will be happy. I can only guess that the medium spring rate you chose is close to stock.

I'm mostly happy with mine. Generally they ride nice on and off pavement. I think I'm getting some extra wheel lift in more rugged terrain because of my spring perch setting, 1-inch, which is pre-loading my spring to give me the lift. The pre-loaded spring is then limiting my up-travel, and causing front wheels to lift off the ground. Honestly, it only happens in really rugged terrain when I max out my articulation. So not a big deal really.

Just curious why you chose the 1 inch setting? In their description ADO recommends keeping it at zero.

Pete
 

scoyoc

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Fort Collins, CO
Just curious why you chose the 1 inch setting? In their description ADO recommends keeping it at zero.

To be honest, I was (and still am) wingin' it and didn't really know what I was doing... LOL. I went off of recommendations on this forum, "that other forum", and descriptions on Nisstec and 4x4Parts.com (I'm not sure I've been on ADO website yet). What I was trying to do is level the X out in the front to compensate for the 2" in the back. Now I'm thinking that keeping the spring perch at zero and adding a 1" body lift might be the way to do that and maintain full up and down travel. But honestly, the spring pre-loading isn't that bad at 1" and an easy way to level out the truck.

I actually ordered a set of Radflo's with 600# coils and will see how they ride, then if needed I'll might add the body spacer to level it out a little and give me room for bigger tires.
 

ScaryFatKidGT

Test Drive
Location
MN
My post from Dumb Question thread:
Lemme try this. It may take a few renditions...

View attachment 13414

The shock sets the travel window for the suspension. Your suspension can not move more than the shock's travel. A spacer lift moves the travel window down.

You have the same travel as when it was stock but you've moved that window down to gain the lift. You "up travel/down travel %" is unchanged from stock (assuming you don't have coil bucket contact but that's for later). If you had 4" down travel, you still have 4" of down travel.

When you lift by using heavier rate springs, longer springs or the preload adjustment on the 5100s or Rads or whatever, you are keeping the travel window the same as without the spacer and changing your "up travel/down travel %" within that window.

Let's say (because I don't have a stock X or access to the actual measurements) you have a shock that has a total stroke of 8". At OE ride height you have a 50/50% of up/ down travel. 4" up and 4" down.

You add a x" lift top spacer to that shock to lift the vehicle. You have not changed the weight of the vehicle or the spring rate. So you get x" of lift by lowering the entire travel of the shock but you maintain your 50/50 split in up/ down travel.

Now. Let's say you pull that spacer and instead you use the 5100's adjustable spring seat to get x" lift. Now what you've done is gained x" of lift by subtracting x" from your down travel amount and adding it to the up travel amount. You are still operating in the same hypothetical 8" of travel, but you are in a different location in that travel window. (4" + x") up and (4" - x") down. Adding a heavier rate spring to lift or a longer spring will have the same effect as moving the spring seat.


First things first, we're playing with IFS. IFS with short OE control arms will not post impressive travel numbers. You can get usable travel out of them but even in highly modified form they will not do what a SFA does in mostly stock trim. It's the nature of the beast.

Bilstein 5100:
  • Affordable good quality front shock
  • Valved to provide OE ride with OE spring rate (~430in/lb IIRC)
  • Same mounting length as an Extended Radflow (+0.25")
  • Not rebuildable so you just order two new ones and dumpster the old ones
In my experience, having had the Fat Bob's Garage coil-over converted 5100s with 600lb/in springs on them, they will not control those spring rates. I even spoke with Greg at PRG and he said that the 5100 isn't designed for that and that it would suffer. Having run them for even the little amount of time I did, I will agree whole heartedly. It hopped and bounced and just wasn't good. I bought a set of Extended Rads with 650lb/in coils ASAP and the ride was 1000x better, even going with a heavier spring rate and still running an OE bumper and no winch or skids.


Stock Width Suspension: You are very limited in what you can do to it and maintain any down travel that won't adversely affect the life of your ball joints, TREs and CVs. According to PRG's suspension post, you have about 2" of down travel over stock that you can gain before you bind the CVs and start causing issues. That requires some form of aftermarket control arm to get that added droop and either longer shocks or a spacer.

My setup is as follows in the front:
  • Extended Rads w/ 650lb/in coils
  • SPC UCAs and coil buckets ground for full swing clearance
  • 0.5" thick (1" lift) spacer on top of the Rads
With this setup, I have roughly 2.75" of lift the way my coil overs are set, carrying a full Shockworks bumper and Warn Zeon winch with synthetic line. I only have about 2 inches of down travel though. It can ride a little rough in the rocks because of this. Am I happy with this setup? Mostly... On the highway it rides GREAT. It carries that heavy load on the front end very well and handles good. We take it on family trips all the time. It's 80% my DD. With this setup, I have enough up travel that my upper ball joints are hitting my inner wheel wells on full compression.

Now, some things I've been thinking about:

THE most common lift for a 2nd Gen Xterra is spacers in the front. It's cheap, quick and gains you clearance. It also operates within the limits of the ball joints, TREs and CVs. I've been wanting to put a 1.5" lift spacer on top of my Rads and then adjust the preload to where I wind up with about the same 2.5-2.75" of total lift.

That would increase my down travel in the front by roughly 1". That's a lot of work (but not much money really) for an increase in down travel of 1" but I'd like to try it. That will put me right up against the maximum amount of down travel that the OE width front suspension is capable of.

And with all that said:

To buy just my front setup as it sits from Nisstec would be $1631.05 before tax or shipping. Add another $180 to that because I put new LCAs on when I did the lift anyways.

A Titan swap using 2.0" body Rads, SPC UCAs, and the extended brake hoses from Nisstec is $1675.60 + shipping and tax. Add in $180 worth of LCAs and a set of the QX56 CVs (can't find part # right now) and that's only about $200-300 more total than my setup and almost double the total travel.

And it's not written anywhere that you HAVE to try to run 35's or really high lift on a Titan Swap. You could easily run ~3" of lift total and 285s on stock wheels and have great wheel travel, the same ground clearance as my setup and for not much more monies. I've actually considered this as my next step. I'm happy on my 285s, I'm happy on my 2-3" lift but that little bit of added front travel would be helpful.
So 5100's, 6112's, Rancho's, Dobison's, OME don't increase travel at all? Not even a little, with or without UCA's and/or spacers? (I get spacers don't add more travel but if you had a small spacer and UCA and a longer spring than stock wouldn't you gain travel in at least droop?) Another point not mentioned is if you have bigger tires that will rub at full compression a spacer might be the best way to go.

So the only option in existence not going long travel to increase travel are the extended Radflo's?

What is the difference between the extended Radflo's and non extended? I'm confused because both say up to 2.5" of travel...

My plan right now for a budget lift is 1/2" spacers giving me 1" of lift with 5100's or 6112's 1 up from the bottom setting and adjustable shackles in the rear set to 1" sense I don't have any extra weight in the back yet.

What is the best replacement top mount to get? OE? KYB? Also thinking about ADO UCA sense they are the cheapest and use stock bushings/ball joints unless I'm told the SPC's are that much better, I get they are adjustable but that just seems like an extra point of failure and they use proprietary ball joints.

I, like a lot of people dream about long travel and flying across the desert, soaking up big hits and I also like driving fast, the titan stuff all bolting up is very nice vs like a 4Runner where it all needs to be custom, but I also like fitting down jeep trails, seems like almost all the trails around here have tight spots I don't think I would fit through if I was 6" wider.
 
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