What have you done for your X?

BrettX · Jun 3, 2020

Just picked up a Bully Dog GT Platinum (40417) Hoping to get a mpg or two more to make going to see the in-laws a bit easier. Yes, I don't mind going. Otherwise I'm going a few miles per hour under the speed limit for 4 hours. Hopefully with the Volante, and the Magnaflow it's a decent enough improvement. I am pretty sure I've got a slightly cracked manifold but I haven't wanted to deal with it yet. If I do, it'll be Doug Thorley short tube headers so hopefully it'll help with the Bully Dog further in the future.

29erClan · Jun 5, 2020

Nobody bought the extra shelf brackets I made a while back. So I put a cheapo HF hitch rack on em.

Xterrorista · Jun 5, 2020

29erClan said:
View attachment 14455

Nobody bought the extra shelf brackets I made a while back. So I put a cheapo HF hitch rack on em.

Cool idea, what did you originally make the brackets for?

29erClan · Jun 6, 2020

Xterrorista said:
Cool idea, what did you originally make the brackets for?

Must be around 3 years ago now. The build thread is on the other forum.

Anyway these brackets were a prototype that didn't fit until I trimmed the feet a bit and drilled some more holes. The original finished rack was made of aluminum round tubing. Sold it when the family road trip plans fell through.

SledheadX · Jun 6, 2020

Had a couple of dumb audio questions on the dumb question thread and now have my own dumb answers. But better yet, had some smart answers from General_Tarfun, Brunnie, and TheCrabby1. Now my X has a serious heartbeat!! “New” 30 year old 8” sub and amp I had from my old camaro added to the mix, along with some really new JBL component speakers all the way around. The sub box is 1/4” lexan that uses the tire jack well as the bottom half. It’s basically a sealed box even though there is slight bleed that can get through the carpet. I’m keeping it sealed to maintain tight bass. With suggestions, I routed the driver side duct under the stock sub leftward and around my sandwiched amp. Blows right next to the speaker terminals on the amp. Took a few days (nights actually) to tune the system again but it came together well. Once this sub dies, I may treat her to a nice Skar Audio VD-8. I’m hearing good things about them, especially the price.

Xterrorista · Jun 8, 2020

SledheadX said:
Had a couple of dumb audio questions on the dumb question thread and now have my own dumb answers. But better yet, had some smart answers from General_Tarfun, Brunnie, and TheCrabby1. Now my X has a serious heartbeat!! “New” 30 year old 8” sub and amp I had from my old camaro added to the mix, along with some really new JBL component speakers all the way around. The sub box is 1/4” lexan that uses the tire jack well as the bottom half. It’s basically a sealed box even though there is slight bleed that can get through the carpet. I’m keeping it sealed to maintain tight bass. With suggestions, I routed the driver side duct under the stock sub leftward and around my sandwiched amp. Blows right next to the speaker terminals on the amp. Took a few days (nights actually) to tune the system again but it came together well. Once this sub dies, I may treat her to a nice Skar Audio VD-8.

I've got an Alpine V12 MVR-T303 just waiting on you to ship it to yourself..

Since losing the hearing in my right ear and the constant tinnitus now, I don't listen to anything loud anymore so this will just sit..

SledheadX · Jun 8, 2020

Xterrorista said:
I've got an Alpine V12 MVR-T303 just waiting on you to ship it to yourself.. View attachment 14491
Since losing the hearing in my right ear and the constant tinnitus now, I don't listen to anything loud anymore so this will just sit..

It’s not just about the volume. With more power comes cleaner sound at any volume. My added sub brings a new level of bass even when I turn it down, and the JBL’s bring back the highs that were missing from those factory paper cones up front without changing the factory amp there.

TheCrabby1 · Jun 8, 2020

Is it just me or is there enough room in that housing/under the seat that maybe would have housed two of those sub's...........

SledheadX · Jun 9, 2020

TheCrabby1 said:
Is it just me or is there enough room in that housing/under the seat that maybe would have housed two of those sub's...........

It’s possible, but it all depends on the specs for the sub. That coustic 8” optimum sealed volume is 0.76 cu-ft. which is close to what’s there now. I had 2 restrictions I worked with. The scrap lexan I used was already that wide so I couldn’t make a longer box to utilize more space under the seats. Second was that I only had 1 sub. I had another but used it in my daughter’s car. So for what I saw, it’s possible to physically get 2 8” subs to work in that well. Maybe even a 10” but it’d probably have to be one of those shallow subs.

BrettX · Jun 9, 2020

@SledheadX Turned out nicely! I've got JBLs in my xterra too, pretty pleased with them!

Got my Bully Dog in the mail yesterday, programmed it last night. I've got to mount it yet, but it's working!

BEEFY · Jun 9, 2020

Reinstalled front drive shaft, winch and bumper.

Zack. · Jun 10, 2020

Looked at it sitting in the garage out of commission, fantasized about hopefully having a day soon to sort things out.

Xterrorista · Jun 10, 2020

I screwed it up..
I took it camping and while paying attention to my right side so I didn't get rock rash around a tight corner I somehow got jousted by a downed pine that stuck right into my qtr panel just behind the driver front tire. I heard the crunch and immediately stopped as I was creeping.
When I opened my door it only opened a few inches before binding up and popping.

I'm not even sure what to try first to get the door to open again and stop the binding.. Time for a wash and inspect closer.

General_Tarfun · Jun 10, 2020

Xterrorista said:
I screwed it up..
I took it camping and while paying attention to my right side so I didn't get rock rash around a tight corner I somehow got jousted by a downed pine that stuck right into my qtr panel just behind the driver front tire. I heard the crunch and immediately stopped as I was creeping.
When I opened my door it only opened a few inches before binding up and popping.
I'm not even sure what to try first to get the door to open again and stop the binding.. Time for a wash and inspect closer.

That looks exactly like what happened to me in 07, I was backing up (except I had the drivers door wide open) and a small tree caught it and over extended it resulting in a bend just like what you have. The body shop ended up replacing door completely but in your case you might be able to get it straightened back out if you pull the door off to get better leverage. Did your fender get pushed backwards or something? I'm wondering because it looks like when you opened the door it caught the fender and that's what bent it.

Muadeeb · Jun 10, 2020

Fender tweak is my thought. If the door didn't close right, then you'll need to adjust the hinges before you break the latch. Ask me how I know...

Brunnie · Jun 10, 2020

Xterrorista said:
I screwed it up..
I took it camping and while paying attention to my right side so I didn't get rock rash around a tight corner I somehow got jousted by a downed pine that stuck right into my qtr panel just behind the driver front tire.

What??? No Spotter??? Always take a spotter so you have someone to blame.

Xterrorista · Jun 11, 2020

Muadeeb said:
Fender tweak is my thought. If the door didn't close right, then you'll need to adjust the hinges before you break the latch. Ask me how I know...

Yep, the tree caught the fender and pushed it back about 1/8" and the door is catching it.

Brunnie said:
What??? No Spotter???

No one wants to play with me..

TheCrabby1 · Jun 11, 2020

Dam Xterrorista , If it wasn't for bad luck , you wouldn't etc etc etc ............... Maybe we need a new thread { YOU DID WHAT ?? to your Xterra lately } It would be about the Ufck up's we do to our own X's . So the tree entered thru the wheel well and pushed the whole quarter panel back ? or just pushed some metal back where it's binding ? Maybe with the door off and a good rubber mallet [ like a rubber tipped flooring mallet ] you could bang it forward and throw some touch up on it !! Gotta love a women with a scare or two ...

General_Tarfun · Jun 11, 2020

TheCrabby1 said:
Dam Xterrorista , If it wasn't for bad luck , you wouldn't etc etc etc ............... Maybe we need a new thread { YOU DID WHAT ?? to your Xterra lately } It would be about the Ufck up's we do to our own X's . So the tree entered thru the wheel well and pushed the whole quarter panel back ? or just pushed some metal back where it's binding ? Maybe with the door off and a good rubber mallet [ like a rubber tipped flooring mallet ] you could bang it forward and throw some touch up on it !! Gotta love a women with a scare or two ...

I feel like this would include a lot of mod installation pics too haha.

TheCrabby1 · Jun 11, 2020

General_Tarfun said:
I feel like this would include a lot of mod installation pics too haha.

Like Odo X with a bull guard

Lol , But on the up side a lady came and bought it today for her X

Xterrorista · Jun 12, 2020

TheCrabby1 said:
Dam Xterrorista , If it wasn't for bad luck , you wouldn't etc etc etc ............... Maybe we need a new thread { YOU DID WHAT ?? to your Xterra lately } It would be about the Ufck up's we do to our own X's . So the tree entered thru the wheel well and pushed the whole quarter panel back ? or just pushed some metal back where it's binding ? Maybe with the door off and a good rubber mallet [ like a rubber tipped flooring mallet ] you could bang it forward and throw some touch up on it !! Gotta love a women with a scare or two ...

Yeah, it's my luck.. it was about a 3" diam tree top that stuck into the fender like a joust. I didn't get a pic of the culprit but this was the area.

Xterrorista · Jun 13, 2020

Muadeeb said:
Fender tweak is my thought. If the door didn't close right, then you'll need to adjust the hinges before you break the latch. Ask me how I know...

The door closes fine no problem and is flush. It's about 8" after opening that it binds with the fender and is bending the door panel back. Is it a big deal removing the door and getting it reinstalled correctly? I'm nervous about pulling it..

General_Tarfun · Jun 13, 2020

Xterrorista said:
The door closes fine no problem and is flush. It's about 8" after opening that it binds with the fender and is bending the door panel back. Is it a big deal removing the door and getting it reinstalled correctly? I'm nervous about pulling it..

Nah, just a few bolts. You might have to shim it if the mounting points got bent though.

Xterrorista · Jun 13, 2020

General_Tarfun said:
Nah, just a few bolts. You might have to shim it if the mounting points got bent though.

That's what I wanna hear.

*I should order a new door now with my luck

General_Tarfun · Jun 13, 2020

Xterrorista said:
That's what I wanna hear.

*I should order a new door now with my luck

Complete removal is a little more involved but adjusting it is pretty straightforward, here's the page on it from the FSM:

Richard · Jun 13, 2020

Found snow....in ....June.

kryter · Jun 13, 2020

I'm not a Painter thank gobble

13ADVX · Jun 14, 2020

Damn @Xterrorista that much be going around. I slid into the tree going through a narrow path. Mines going to a body shop tomorrow.

I also put some protection on after my last trail mishap.

SledheadX · Jun 14, 2020

13ADVX said:
Damn @Xterrorista that much be going around. I slid into the tree going through a narrow path. Mines going to a body shop tomorrow.

I also put some protection on after my last trail mishap.

I think it was a good thing for me that ECXC was cancelled this year. I still don’t have armor setup under the rig. With my luck, I’d be the one to rupture my gas tank or worse. Just gives me time to save up I guess (or buy new bumpers/tire carrier‍).

RM975 · Jun 14, 2020

Instead of starting on re gearing, I am going into trip prep for a week long loop through Sedona/Crown King/Mogollon Rim with two to three other rigs.

Replace radiator with an all aluminum unit (suggestions welcome)
Replace all coolant/heater system hoses, including upgrading the plastic pieces at the firewall / heater. I have the Z1 piece and the brass T. I'm going to pick up a tool to bead roll that firewall tube to accept this mod.
New front pads and rotors. They're warped AF.
Finish wiring my new lights
Finish out the roof antenna mount plate I started. Convert the GMRS antenna from the mag mount unit to a NMO mount. Cut some lightening holes, maybe dimple then, paint.
Chase down a slow OBA leak.
Pull the rear rotors off and adjust the parking brake. Probably just do rear brakes while I'm in there anyway, they're original ('06).
Perform the ECU relay bulletin
Pull my evap tank and clean it out, do the filter mod

Oh, and build some more DLCU bypass harnesses.

13ADVX · Jun 14, 2020

SledheadX said:
I think it was a good thing for me that ECXC was cancelled this year. I still don’t have armor setup under the rig. With my luck, I’d be the one to rupture my gas tank or worse. Just gives me time to save up I guess (or buy new bumpers/tire carrier‍).

In my opinion skids are first.

Xterrorista · Jun 15, 2020

Thx

General_Tarfun said:
Complete removal is a little more involved but adjusting it is pretty straightforward, here's the page on it from the FSM:

This wknd I went back out and hit some easy trails and camped.
I noticed while checking out the door closer it will only open about 20" or so and stops. I have access to the door check but not the door mount hardware.
I also noticed that now that the door and fender are slightly bent (1/8"-1/4") where they're meeting, they're only barely touching and the millimeter I pressed the fender in with a finger stopped the binding and popping. So that's nice..er

Xterrorista · Jun 15, 2020

13ADVX said:
Damn @Xterrorista that much be going around. I slid into the tree going through a narrow path. Mines going to a body shop tomorrow.

I also put some protection on after my last trail mishap.

Ouch! I'll be curious to find out what all work they end up doing..

13ADVX · Jun 15, 2020

Xterrorista said:
Ouch! I'll be curious to find out what all work they end up doing..

The guy didn't seem fazed all and quoted me under $400 for the repair. Its a really good shop so I'm optimistic it'll come out like new.

General_Tarfun · Jun 15, 2020

Xterrorista said:
Thx This wknd I went back out and hit some easy trails and camped.
I noticed while checking out the door closer it will only open about 20" or so and stops. I have access to the door check but not the door mount hardware.
I also noticed that now that the door and fender are slightly bent (1/8"-1/4") where they're meeting, they're only barely touching and the millimeter I pressed the fender in with a finger stopped the binding and popping. So that's nice..er

Yeah you have to pull the fender to get access to the mounting bolts but it comes off pretty easily, it's held on by only a few (I think 3) bolts.

Xterrorista · Jun 15, 2020

13ADVX said:
The guy didn't seem fazed all and quoted me under $400 for the repair. Its a really good shop so I'm optimistic it'll come out like new.

Nice, although for $400, my door isn't binding or making noise anymore and now that it won't open all the way I don't need to replace the door check. Win win? I think so.

RM975 · Jun 16, 2020

Gonnsta makes it.......cooooool

General_Tarfun · Jun 17, 2020

Needed to burnish the brakes again after getting the rotors covered in sil-glide when I was installing the new coil springs but can't seem to find anywhere in Atlanta where I could get up to speed and brake over and over. I figured out if just left foot the brake pedal and right foot the gas pedal at the same time (lightly to firm on the brake) you can get them nice and hot in about 2 miles. Vibrations gone.

Zack. · Jun 19, 2020

Changed driver side CPS, started pulling valve cover but ran out of time just when I got it loose. Will finish tomorrow then move on to the other side.

SledheadX · Jun 27, 2020

I know it’s not a Dephep but for $60 it works for me for now. Wanted something to carry some extra camping gear on top when I hit the George Washington Nat’l Forest near Rawley Springs the week after next for a solo trip.

The rack is a recycled materials half pallet 24” x 32” from Graingers. The mounts are my 2” tube clamps that I had bored out to 2 1/8” to use for my hi-lift jack. Found 2.2” tube clamps on eBay for the hi-lift that fit better and much stronger. I feel better with the larger ones now for the jack. Safety with that thing on the roof is a must. All the more $ for when I order armor for the spring.

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What have you done for your X?

Test Drive

Bought an X

Charcoal Briquette

Bought an X

Wheeling

Charcoal Briquette

Wheeling

I Smell Fishy

Wheeling

Test Drive

I Smile when Gasoline Can Freeze

Has been dubbed Arnold

Charcoal Briquette

Sliders

Nissan al Gaib

Bumpers Installed

Charcoal Briquette

I Smell Fishy

Sliders

I Smell Fishy

Charcoal Briquette

Charcoal Briquette

Sliders

Charcoal Briquette

Sliders

First Fill-Up (of many)

First Fill-Up (of many)

Bought an X

Wheeling

First Fill-Up (of many)

Bought an X

Charcoal Briquette

Charcoal Briquette

Bought an X

Sliders

Charcoal Briquette

First Fill-Up (of many)

Sliders

Has been dubbed Arnold

Wheeling