Bklyn.X

Bklyn.X

Skid Plates
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Brooklyn, NY
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Rausch+12-1-17.jpg
 

Bklyn.X

Skid Plates
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Location
Brooklyn, NY
Kinda curious how this pans out. I have heard mixed things about high steer and calmini kit
Uh-oh, what have you heard?

The only problem I heard and can foresee would be when using the steering part of the Calmini kit. As you know, it uses a piece of pipe to extend the top tube of the Jeep OEM steering linkage. I thought it was kind of weak and never put it on; I have a 7/8 Heim set up on the truck now.

It should handle the stress of a high steer set up without a problem (as should your 1 Ton set up).
 

Bklyn.X

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Brooklyn, NY
Hmmm, haven’t been in this thread for a bit. Not much to update you with besides;

Here's a video shot during ECXC2018;


I re wired my ARB switches so that the front and rear lockers can be turned on and off independently.

ARB+re-wire.jpg


Yikes, what a bird’s nest! Definitely not a "Leo wiring job" but nothing has caught on fire and it seems to work...

Ya need that plastic tool to remove the top of the switch without breaking it. :roll:


I hard wired my iPhone plug to my Kenwood DDX371 Head Unit. This way I can plug my phone in and hold it with the RAM mount up near the rear-view mirror where I like it.

iPhone+hard+wire.jpg



I hard wired my Rexing V1 Dash Cam using a Rexing Mini-USB Hardwire Kit. It runs from an accessory plug in the trucks fuse panel, inside the driver’s side pillar, under the headliner and comes out near the rear-view mirror.

RExing+hard+wire.jpg


No more wires hanging!



For those of you that don't follow my silliness on instagram here's a photo of my new back window;

38B19C1D-27DC-4689-B5E6-69687CB058CB.jpeg


...and a short video Dave made of my egg crate from the GPAX run 3/16/19;


That’s all I got for ya for now, thanks for looking.
 
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Bklyn.X

Skid Plates
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Brooklyn, NY
If ya haven’t seen already;


Besides my secondary cat being unnecessary in NYS they melted the protective cover on my front driveshaft. Walker Exhaust makes sections that replace the secondary cats and include bungs for the o2 sensors.

53345 (driver side), 54338 (passenger side).

6268B4F1-4B7F-423D-B5ED-8EB26123EB88.jpeg



Top right in montage is an Irwin impact ez out and the F’d up busted bolt I was able to extract using an impact gun…sweet little tool.


Now I need to get a new driveshaft cover…


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


I’m not sure what is the true cause of knocking my back window out a couple of times within the past year. Larger tire size (35 from 33”), running tougher trials since my SAS, my bad driving or some combination… I seem to be hitting the tire and pushing it and the hilift into the glass when I’m dropping off an obstacle.


I doubt I’ll pick up any new skills anytime soon so I’m going to try wheeling the truck with the spare and hilift inside instead of hanging off the back.


I got a three point off-road spare tire tie-down and some heavy anchors that are almost flush when not in use. This way I can still have the back seats when the tire is back outside.


826AAA7D-3B5E-4236-8ACE-0D9BE608045A.jpeg



These are tested to 5000lb Minimum Breaking Strength in vertical pull.


I hooked the ratchet part into the baby seat anchor in the back of the truck and secured the anchors through the body.


36383B23-E11E-4131-9431-DB6BD4C17E86.jpeg



D7EC8455-F956-422D-AE1E-0F8B23E89ADA.jpeg



A0E3639F-A701-4334-9CF6-647507AC4496.jpeg



So far three days wheeling with all glass intact!



A couple of weeks ago I went down to Dave’s so that he could help change a bushing in my passenger side control arm that had backed out and might be the cause of the noise the truck makes when climbing. I needed his expertise and press.

After getting that done we realized that the drivers side arm was a bit bent;


7FD453E9-4DF4-4EE2-9E3A-FEB3B64A2E50.jpeg



So we pulled it;


D219893B-2DCE-486A-A248-328266560177.jpeg



Yikes! Man my lack of driving skill is becoming kinda blatant… :oops:


Anyways after some discussion it was decided Dave would make a jig to hold the arm and we could then put it in his press and try to straighten it;


0738E563-5B7A-4954-885D-9EB9A104A712.jpeg



A915E722-DB9A-4FB0-A996-EA9C7DE1D146.jpeg



It worked!

Dave then welded on some tabs we’ve had for some time now to hold my ARB line onto the arm;


75757612-3B40-4E98-8432-B5D5D1A1DEBF.jpeg



0783DF7A-7ED0-49CB-B89C-5541FB04D363.jpeg



Primer & paint.


761D1C1C-7645-4DA3-99EC-A3A38563CEAA.jpeg



…and back on the truck;


0855B0C6-D700-4828-B288-70ED92DB542F.jpeg



I’ve purchased a set of Universal Tube reinforcements from Ruff Stuff with the hope Dave can stitch weld them on before I ufck the arms up…again.


We also finally got the antisway set up on the truck;


D30E34C8-86C0-4C4C-AB91-1CFDBD4DDB62.jpeg


9A056037-5ED7-4032-8A05-2CBBF4702D0D.jpeg



After driving without it for more than a year I didn’t think I’d care…but yeah, it makes a difference.

That's all I got for now, thanks for looking!
 

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
If you go look back at Alpine Spirits build him and Grandpa X welded some heavy angle iron down the bottom of the radius arm to help prevent bending and deflect hits. I may look into building some new arms for my rig with a chunk of aluminum inside to help keep shape. Then again, I will be going to 38s so I need all the help I can get
 

paulforeman02

Test Drive
Wilwood+261-13270.jpg



MC+8.jpg



MC+11.jpg



This is a Wilwood Aluminum Tandem Chamber Master Cylinder with the Combination Proportioning Valve and Wilwood ten pound residual pressure valve. You can access the specs by clicking the links.


I went with this MC on Dave’s (http://bandit4x4.com/) recommendation. He has one in his truck and said he’d help install it (basically install it while I handed him tools).


It is a direct swap; take out the OEM MC, the pin part of the output rod length adjuster and ABS module. Bench bleed the Wilwood MC, bolt it to the brake booster with the OEM hardware, connect the fluid lines, connect the pressure valve, bleed the system.


This MC kit ain’t cheap but you get what you pay for, again, check the specs HERE. Considering that lack of specific info on others SAS brake setups on 1st Gen SAS’d trucks I could find, that I knew it would fit, that Dave was going to install it and that I would learn how to do something it was kinda a no brainer.


OEM out, residual pressure valve installed.

MC+12.jpg



MC installed;


MC+13.jpg



Bleeding a brake system is always a PITA even with speed bleeders but after a few times around we got it done.


The brakes felt spongy with the OEM MC even after the ABS delete but would stop the truck. I took it to the NEXTerra B2SR17 and they held fine on the trail. The system just didn’t instill any kind of confidence.

With the Wilwood installed I was able to stop the truck in about 30 feet from 30mph leaving a skid mark. On the drive back to Brooklyn the brakes felt stronger than the OEM system pre SAS. I’m happy, money and time well spent.


Thanks Dave!

Hello. I think I'm going to go ahead and order these parts and do the upgrade on my 2000 Frontier. I have a couple questions if you have time. Is this write-up pretty much all you had to do? Assuming I don't have any huge problems, how long did it take you?

Secondly, what are the copper lines you're running? Did you have to flare them? (can't see the detail very well, but I'm assuming I'll need to get a flare kit and stuff too).

Finally, can you send me a few more detailed pictures so I can see the routing, connectors, etc? That would be awesome. Thank you in advance!
 

Bklyn.X

Skid Plates
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Brooklyn, NY
I had taken out the ABS and ran straight lines to see if I could run the OEM MC before I put in the Wilwood MC. It helped a little but not enough. So the ABS was already out before I put the Wilwood in.

The write up is really all I did. It’s always a pain working on a brake system without getting brake fluid all over. Draining, filling and bleeding is a tedious sometimes frustrating exercise and ya really need at least one extra guy…I had two.

We used a standard roll of copper brake line and common fittings from NAPA. Used a tube cutter and flare kit.

Even with the three of us it took a day to figure out what to do, chase down leaks on sloppy flares and bleed the MF’er.

I don’t know if you’ve ever bled a system that is new or been drained but it sucks.

I’ll try and get more pictures this weekend. If there is a specific angle you want let me know. I can try and find the receipts for the line and fittings if you want the exact numbers.
 

paulforeman02

Test Drive
I had taken out the ABS and ran straight lines to see if I could run the OEM MC before I put in the Wilwood MC. It helped a little but not enough. So the ABS was already out before I put the Wilwood in.

The write up is really all I did. It’s always a pain working on a brake system without getting brake fluid all over. Draining, filling and bleeding is a tedious sometimes frustrating exercise and ya really need at least one extra guy…I had two.

We used a standard roll of copper brake line and common fittings from NAPA. Used a tube cutter and flare kit.

Even with the three of us it took a day to figure out what to do, chase down leaks on sloppy flares and bleed the MF’er.

I don’t know if you’ve ever bled a system that is new or been drained but it sucks.

I’ll try and get more pictures this weekend. If there is a specific angle you want let me know. I can try and find the receipts for the line and fittings if you want the exact numbers.

Thank you. Yes, I've worked on brakes plenty of times, just haven't done something like this. Do you know if I could still run the ABS with this master cylinder? I'm assuming I could, but I wouldn't really care if I had to lose it.

One more picture that shows the routing of each copper hose is all I really want. Thanks again, and no rush on that photo.
 

Bklyn.X

Skid Plates
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Brooklyn, NY
I would guess you could run the ABS with it but never seen any OEM MC replaced on an Xterra with the ABS.
Why are you changing the MC?
 

HolyGhost

First Fill-Up (of many)
I am curios on how the master works with ABS too. I was going to try and figure out a remote mount reservoir for mine as the turbo is starting to melt the nylon stock reservoir.

The willwood reservoir is metal right? Bklyn.x do you have any info on the difference on profile of the willwood vs the stock X reservoirs?
 

paulforeman02

Test Drive
I would guess you could run the ABS with it but never seen any OEM MC replaced on an Xterra with the ABS.
Why are you changing the MC?

Just trying to get the brake system upgraded a bit to compensate for all the added weight of bumpers/sliders/topper/gear I carry.
 

Bklyn.X

Skid Plates
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The Wilwood is Aluminum. I no longer have the OEM MC.

The Wilwood kit that includes Proportioning Valve, mounting bracket, fluid tubes and mounting hardware kit on my truck;

261-13270_dwg-lg.jpg


Specs including a bench bleed vid HERE


Specs on the Residual Pressure Valve used to compensate for return spring tension in the rear drums HERE.



I’m the last MF’r to tell anyone not to do a mod but I want to be honest and say I don’t know if swapping in this MC will help you.

I put it in because the OEM MC, though big enough to push an ample amount of fluid to my modern and beefy 2001 multi piston OEM caliper, could not adequately feed the large out dated single piston ’89 caliper on my d44.

The only gain I was looking for with the Wilwood MC was to move more fluid.

Unless you’re currently pushing your brake pedal to the floor to try and bring your truck to a stop, I’d rethink this move.

I would think that, theoretically, you could run the ABS with the Wilwood but again, why change the MC?

Are you running steel lines throughout your system?
 

paulforeman02

Test Drive
The Wilwood is Aluminum. I no longer have the OEM MC.

The Wilwood kit that includes Proportioning Valve, mounting bracket, fluid tubes and mounting hardware kit on my truck;

261-13270_dwg-lg.jpg


Specs including a bench bleed vid HERE


Specs on the Residual Pressure Valve used to compensate for return spring tension in the rear drums HERE.



I’m the last MF’r to tell anyone not to do a mod but I want to be honest and say I don’t know if swapping in this MC will help you.

I put it in because the OEM MC, though big enough to push an ample amount of fluid to my modern and beefy 2001 multi piston OEM caliper, could not adequately feed the large out dated single piston ’89 caliper on my d44.

The only gain I was looking for with the Wilwood MC was to move more fluid.

Unless you’re currently pushing your brake pedal to the floor to try and bring your truck to a stop, I’d rethink this move.

I would think that, theoretically, you could run the ABS with the Wilwood but again, why change the MC?

Are you running steel lines throughout your system?

Thanks for all the info and for not being a know-it-all. Yes, running steel lines throughout, good quality pads, and yes, I am pushing the pedal to the floor (I've bled it, and had a shop to it to make sure it wasn't a problem on my end). The truck stops, but not like it should. Seems like the OE MC or maybe the diaphragm may be weak or leaking past one of the seals, so rather than just replace it with the OE or a cheap aftermarket one, I'd rather do the upgrade and know I have good parts in there.
 

Bklyn.X

Skid Plates
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Location
Brooklyn, NY
Ah, I got ya.

I’m no expert but am thinking that if you run the Wilwood MC with the OEM ABS you wouldn’t need the "Residual Pressure Valve", "Proportioning Valve" or the rest of that hardware…that the solenoid valves within the ABS actuator and electric unit would be doing all that.

Maybe you could get just the MC and even run the OEM hard lines from the MC to the unit! Would save ya more than $100 and a lot of pain!

MC+2.jpg


Oh man, that would be too cool and easy to work…Ha ha
 
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Bklyn.X

Skid Plates
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Brooklyn, NY
One other thing you might want to keep in mind; the Wilwood MC with its larger “Bore” will move more fluid with less “Stroke” than the OEM MC. In other words, I’m thinking there might be less brake pedal travel than when your OEM MC was new. It might be tough to manage…lock up with just a tap.

I don't know shiat, just thinking out loud…
 

Bklyn.X

Skid Plates
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MC+14


MC+15


So I don’t know if the pictures above help.


The Wilwood Aluminum Tandem Master Cylinder has fluid outlet ports on both sides of the bore. Two ports.

Mine runs to the two inlet ports of a proportioning valve.


The proportioning valve has three fluid outlet ports. Two into the OEM lines for the front calipers on the d44 and one from the adjustable valve to the ten pound residual pressure valve (explained above) then to the OEM line that runs to the back of the truck.



All of this was worked out and installed by my friend Dave from https://bandit4x4.com/ with my friend Andy and I at the https://bandit4x4.com/ garage.


I hope this helps.
 

Bklyn.X

Skid Plates
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Location
Brooklyn, NY
As some of you know the 1310 U-Joint and/or strap in my front driveshaft failed last time I was out (post above^) and like an idiot I had no spare.


Front+Driveshaft+1310



Since I had no plan to wheel soon and wasn’t expecting any snow in Brooklyn I decided (with encouragement from friends I know and trust) to upgrade rather than replace.


My friend Dave from Bandit4x4 sourced a flange (forged 5140 material) from “Parts Mike” to replace the 1310 Yoke on my D44


1310+Yoke



Parts+Mike+Flange.jpg



D44+Flange+Installed.jpg



and got the 1310 Yoke on the driveshaft changed to a 1330 Cardan at “Mr. Driveshaft”.


Front+Driveshaft+Modified.jpg



Modified+Front+Driveshaft+2

Modified+Front+Driveshaft+2



Front+Modified+Driveshaft+Installed.jpg



Looks pretty beefy!


The only trouble I had with this upgrade was finding “standard hardware”.
In present day Brooklyn such things do not readily exist. What a pain.

Anyways it’s on and I’m hoping to get some revenge on the uphill “Black” section at the end of trail “13” at Rausch that took the MF’er out in a month or so.

Thanks for looking, hope to see you on the trails sometime soon!
 
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Bklyn.X

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That’s a nice looking shaft.

Are you talking about the trail 16 hill climb?

That's what she said!
beer1.gif


Yes, “16”! I didn’t even know its name. What disrespect…no wonder it’s always treated me harshly.
banging.gif




Walking+13.gif


I’ve only seen one other group tackle it in all my times on “13” and they were “buggies” going down it (weak). I can’t remember ever seeing or hearing of another Xterra running it other than Dave (Bandit4x4). Have you run it?

I’ve only tried it twice and have always been the least equipped (truck and talent).

First time I made it kinda following Ernie’s lead (I can’t really follow his Toy on 44’s in my little egg crate) and he had to expertly spot me through a couple of sections.

The second time I made it halfway before I broke and had to get strapped out.

I never had the balls or crew (no one wanting to run it with me) pre-SAS. I think it could be done but it would take some time.

After running the better part of “13” it would be a pretty ballsy choice; you don’t want to F up the rest of your day if it’s your first trail or you’re there early and you don’t want to get stuck in there at the end of the day.

Anyways thanks for clearing up the trail name…maybe we can try running it together next time out!

beer1.gif
 
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