Stupid brakes

ChillyX

Test Drive
Location
Denver
im having issues with the brakes and i avoid taking my trucks to a shop if i can help it so hopefully someone can help me here.

My brakes started squeaking so i replaced the pads that were on when i bought it even though they were only half worn. It still squeaked.

I had the rotors turned because they were shiny and could have been the issue. It still squeaked.

I re-lubed everything except the mating surfaces with anti-seize because i didnt have any more grease. It still squeaked.

Now it not only squeaks but it also makes a shook shook shook sound like its warped and grinding. And makes an occasional pop or clank sound.

Through all this the truck has not had a problem stopping and i cant visually see anything wrong. So if anyone can point me in the right direction id be grateful. If you think i should just get it to a shop let me know. Thanks!
 

Just a Hunter

Bought an X
Location
Georgia
Two questions

1. What brand pads did you purchase?
2. What material is your current pad made from? ( re ceramic, semi-metallic etc)

Brake squeal is basically a resonant frequency which we can hear.
It's possible, changing to a different pad may resolve your problem.
Basically, changing to a different pad may alter the resonant frequency and thus eliminate the noise.

Use a quality brake grease on all sliding surfaces. ( CRC)
Napa Sil-Glyde is an excellent product for use on the brake caliper pin boots.

Ps: confirm there is no rust of any sort on the sliding surfaces of your pads and calipers.
 

ChillyX

Test Drive
Location
Denver
I dont remember which pad i used but i know i avoided metallic and bought a more expensive pad especially since i upgraded tire/wheel size. Im more concerned with the other noises that have become more noticeable. Could a caliper failure be to blame? It seems to be only the front driver that makes noises - squealing, grinding, popping.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I dont remember which pad i used but i know i avoided metallic and bought a more expensive pad especially since i upgraded tire/wheel size. Im more concerned with the other noises that have become more noticeable. Could a caliper failure be to blame? It seems to be only the front driver that makes noises - squealing, grinding, popping.
Popping isn't good. Smooth face rotors?
 

bigjim247365

Anime boobs & male genitals? Sign me up!
Supporting Member
Location
Hainesville IL
I dont remember which pad i used but i know i avoided metallic and bought a more expensive pad especially since i upgraded tire/wheel size. Im more concerned with the other noises that have become more noticeable. Could a caliper failure be to blame? It seems to be only the front driver that makes noises - squealing, grinding, popping.

caliper failure could cause some of the noise you may be hearing. when you did the brakes last, did the slide pins move freely? was one more stuck than the other? if they arent both moving smoothly they can cause the caliper to apply unevenly.

I did rear brakes on my gen 2 a few weeks ago but i replaced everything so no noise at all. but i did my father's car this past weekend. i replaced everything but the rotors. the back side of the pass side rotor had a rougher wear pattern since the pad was down to the metal. there was a small grind noise after wards but as we drove it it started to go away as everything wore into one another.
 

maillet282

If you bleeding, Imma fix you
Moderator
Location
Ontario Canada
Also. Check the dust shield that goes around the rotors. Sometimes they get pinched and end up rubbing and can cause squeezing or whooshing sounds
 

ChillyX

Test Drive
Location
Denver
The rotors were glossy and turning them didnt help. Ive also checked the dust shield and it had plenty of clearsnce. Im thinking ill get some good grease and tonight ill lube again and hit the slide pins with pb to make sure they are both moving.

Has anyone upgraded rotors to the ones with the fancy holes? Do they actually resist warping?
 

Me!Here!

Bought an X
Location
Somerville, MA
The rotors were glossy and turning them didnt help. Ive also checked the dust shield and it had plenty of clearsnce. Im thinking ill get some good grease and tonight ill lube again and hit the slide pins with pb to make sure they are both moving.

Has anyone upgraded rotors to the ones with the fancy holes? Do they actually resist warping?

I've read too many articles where the holes and or slotted are not as good, not the same amount of braking power, brakes work off of friction, the more mass the more friction, holes and slots create less mass making for less friction making less stopping power...go to RockAuto and look at the Raysbestos rotors/pads
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
For a an Offroad rig that sees mud, crawls on trails, etc....drilled and slotted rotors are a waste. The purpose of them is to disapate heat. But when you're off road you are moving slow and don't need to do that. Plus you now have a lot of places on the rotor that can collect mud, grit, etc and mess up your pads.

I'd recommend drilled and slotted rotors for road cars all day long. They will produce better braking distances at interstate speeds and not be as subject to brake fade on long downhill drives.

But not for wheeling rigs.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
I've read too many articles where the holes and or slotted are not as good, not the same amount of braking power, brakes work off of friction, the more mass the more friction, holes and slots create less mass making for less friction making less stopping power...go to RockAuto and look at the Raysbestos rotors/pads

Second the Raybestos EHT pads. I have them on the front and they work great. I just got a set to put on the wife's Malibu as well.

For a an Offroad rig that sees mud, crawls on trails, etc....drilled and slotted rotors are a waste. The purpose of them is to disapate heat. But when you're off road you are moving slow and don't need to do that. Plus you now have a lot of places on the rotor that can collect mud, grit, etc and mess up your pads.

I'd recommend drilled and slotted rotors for road cars all day long. They will produce better braking distances at interstate speeds and not be as subject to brake fade on long downhill drives.

But not for wheeling rigs.

x2. You don't need the extra cooling, you need surface area for friction off-road. Also, don't drive a heavily loaded 4x4 like it's a 370Z. Let off earlier, go slower between lights you know are going to catch you, gear down for corners and turns and going down steep grades. Run lower gears in town (I run in 4th under 45 and 3rd under 35 with my auto and 3.13s on 285s) and brake hard to shed about 5-10mph going down hills then let off and let your brakes cool while the vehicle speeds back up like road trucks do.
 

ChillyX

Test Drive
Location
Denver
I have an auto and use lower gears pretty often. Ill take the advice and put on the raybestos premium pads. Would the heavy duty rotors be overkill? I can tell that mine are warped after just having them turned so ill replace them (the guy that turned them told me they probably would warp because the material is low quality). If problems persist ill look at new calipers.

I appreciate all the advice/input
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
I re-lubed everything except the mating surfaces with anti-seize because i didnt have any more grease.

If you put anti-seize on the slide pins you'll need to clean that out and use sil-glide instead. It won't take long for the anti-seize to dry out and turn into the consistency of dry clay, I know personally because I tried the same thing once too haha.

That's interesting that the squeaking was there before you did any work on it, is it one long noise or is it repetitive?

I'd check out the rear brakes as well, there's been a few times that I heard suspension noise I would swear was coming from the front that turned out to actually be the rear end. This also applies to brakes, I used to have a set of Raysbestos on the rear and started getting a loud foghorn-like shrieking noise when I'd start driving the truck after it rained or the humidity was high. Took me months to track down the noise, it turned out to be that the pads were just slightly taller than they should have been so over time as they wore down at the end of he pad would be a millimeter of material that would rub the outside edge of the rotor. Just that little bit of material would produce an unbelievable amount of noise, it was ridiculous.


Also check out the hardware that holds the brake pads in place, some of the lower end kits are generic and the fit isn't great. They can easily get bent and contact the rotor.
 

ChillyX

Test Drive
Location
Denver
Ive replaced the front rotors and pads with raybestos. Also picked up a tube of sil glide which i applied to slide pins as well. Everything seems peachy. Thanks for all the info guys!
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
Ive replaced the front rotors and pads with raybestos. Also picked up a tube of sil glide which i applied to slide pins as well. Everything seems peachy. Thanks for all the info guys!

You should be in good shape then. I replaced my front brake pads yesterday and the set I removed had sil-glide on the pins for most of their lifetime, the pad wear was basically even across all 4.
 
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