- Location
- Livermore, CA
What kind of stuff might get ufcked up by running without a heat shield at the passenger exhaust manifold?
I just got Dave's PDF and now i gotta have his Maxterra rear bump.. Are you guys running anything better?
The only thing I can think of is photoshop. But other than saying that, no help. No photoshop skills.My lazy question of the day..
I just ordered bare steel bumper, skids and sliders and I've got a lil rust on the top roof channels, rear hatch, hood and a tad where I've removed the mudflaps..
My original plan was to bedliner the add on's and then maybe put a 1-1.5' racing type strip of bedliner from the front to back of drivers side and another along the rockers on both sides..
Is there an easy way or a website where I could " mock up " a paint job? Like photoshop or something I thought I wanted black but there are alot of blk on white X's. I think I wanna see how a grey tint would look...
Tanks~
There is none better imo.I just got Dave's PDF and now i gotta have his Maxterra rear bump.. Are you guys running anything better?
You should get upgraded torsion bars.So after adding a 150 lb ARB bumper (or whatever it weighs) and a Smittybilt XRC 10000 lb winch, should I get new shocks for the added weight?
Does that affect ride qualityYou should get upgraded torsion bars.
I'm wondering the same thing.. About to add a shrock front with probably a 9500 of some make, not sure on the winch yet. I bought some 1" coil spacers and 2" shackles and 5100's for the rear and adj 5100's up front. Still haven't had the time or energy to put them in yet but I'm gettin' there.So after adding a 150 lb ARB bumper (or whatever it weighs) and a Smittybilt XRC 10000 lb winch, should I get new shocks for the added weight?
They have a higher spring rate and will help balance the extra load. I'd also suggest new shocks.Does that affect ride quality
You're definitely going to need stiffer springs. 650lb-in is recommended for a steel bumper and winch.I'm wondering the same thing.. About to add a shrock front with probably a 9500 of some make, not sure on the winch yet. I bought some 1" coil spacers and 2" shackles and 5100's for the rear and adj 5100's up front. Still haven't had the time or energy to put them in yet but I'm gettin' there.
At what point with additional weight up front is it time to upgrade springs? I've got 211k on them as I'm sure they and the leaves are stock..
https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/15-f...ra-by-old-man-emu-p-36029.html?search=SpringsYou're definitely going to need stiffer springs. 650lb-in is recommended for a steel bumper and winch.
Those would definitely be an improvement.https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/15-f...ra-by-old-man-emu-p-36029.html?search=Springs
Would you recommend something different?
Thx,
L
Those springs didn't state what in-lb they were, just had options for light or heavy.. Am I ok in assuming these will fit with the adj 5100's I've got nd be a direct fit?Those would definitely be an improvement
I'd give RR a call to verify, but sounds correct.Those springs didn't state what in-lb they were, just had options for light or heavy.. Am I ok in assuming these will fit with the adj 5100's I've got nd be a direct fit?
What kind of stuff might get ufcked up by running without a heat shield at the passenger exhaust manifold?
Today when I was replacing the lower control arms I tried to check out the inner tie rods to see if they had any play. There's wasn't any I could notice (by hand) but the arm could move around up/down/left/right with basically no resistance at all. I know when I installed them they were tight and were not easy to move around like that. Are they fine or is that a reason to start looking at replacements?
Technically there should be a minimum force to get it to move. Here's a screen clip from my year saying 9-69 in*lb, anything outside that range to be replaced. Mine had no noticeable end play but were very loose and floppy on the swing test. I just decided to do all 4 inners and outers so I'd only have to get the alignment done once. They were all 10 years old anyway. $150 for all 4 hitachi's and hopefully no worries for 10 more years.
View attachment 10684
Not enough to make a substantial difference and you know. Have an alignment.Could a Titan swap width gain be minimized by clocking lower cams and SPC uppers inboard?
Could a Titan swap width gain be minimized by clocking lower cams and SPC uppers inboard?
Best of luckTheorizing how possible it would be to t-swap on the down low
So maybe I'm just an idiot but I can't figure out how to get the map lights out to swap for LEDs. I've got the housing down and can see the bulb but can't figure out how to get at it...
I'd just woke up when I tried, that may have been the problem too.
That's what I figured but hadn't ever really looked at the rear end closely. In my head I was thinking it had a hose on it already, just not long enough.It’s the thing in between the brake line and the e brake cable hold down.
Better give it a good clean before you blast it and pull it..... as opposed to pull it and blast it, which is quite different. Lol.
That's what I figured but hadn't ever really looked at the rear end closely. In my head I was thinking it had a hose on it already, just not long enough.
Of all the reading and research I've done for this X I hadn't given any thought to this.