SnickerDoodle's Build Thread

SnickerDoodle

SnickerDoodle

Life's Better Seeing Pink
Founding Member
Location
Winlsow Twsp, NJ
Year: 2002
Make: Nissan (duh)
Model: Xterra (double duh)
Trim: title states XE/SE so who knows!
Color: Super Black (with a splash of hot pink)
Codename: Chance
Pilot: Dani
Co-pilot: Norman/Walter and Keith

Tires/Wheels:
33" Nitto Mud Grapplers 305/70r16
33'' TreadWright Guard Dog M/T’s (since removed)
16” Pro Comp Rock Crawlers

Suspension:
PML
2” BL
Bilstein 5100 Series
3 pack AAL
Calmini UCA's
Low Pro bump stops

Armor:
InSain Fabrication one off custom tube bumper. (winch to follow)
Fully armored- SkidRow Skids
EOE Sliders (cut to fit 35's)

Electronics:
Midland 75
4' Firestik coated Hot Pink

Lighting:
B&M Lo Pro Light bar
20' Alien LED Light Bar

Other:
Bedlined & Trimmed Plastics
WeatherTech Floor Mats
FlipHitch Mod Doodle Style
Yakima Load Warrior roof rack
Gobi Ladder
Stock radiator replaced with 02' Super Charged.
Safari Snorkel
Custom camo head liner
JVC navi with dvd and back up cam

Steering:
Calimini Steering

Removed:
Mud flaps
Stock step rails
Majority of lower front bumper
Plastic door trim
Stock headliner


Many more mods to come.. stay tuned!

Bought stock March 2nd 2011.
photo2-1.jpg


March 2015




Merica!
PicsArt_1380915699167_Ingrid_zpsbc5d05f7.jpg
 
Last edited:
SnickerDoodle

SnickerDoodle

Life's Better Seeing Pink
Founding Member
Location
Winlsow Twsp, NJ
Haha I did... but so far my build is nothing compared to everyone elses. With the new job will come new mods! Driving to work today with the new tires... wow. I def know where some of the new raise is going towards... GAS!

Thanks!
 
T

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
SnickerDoodle said:
Haha I did... but so far my build is nothing compared to everyone elses. With the new job will come new mods! Driving to work today with the new tires... wow. I def know where some of the new raise is going towards... GAS!

Thanks!
Click to expand...


LOL

Yeah, for every extra pound of rim/tire, its the same as adding ~ 3 lb of cargo as far as the power required to move it....and, that's times four, for each of the tires.

So, if the rim/tire combo is only 1 lb more than before, that's like adding 12 lb to the rig weight.

If the tire has a higher rolling resistance, that adds a lot of power needed to move too.

My 33 x 13.5/16 Interco LTBs' were 59 lb each, my 305/70/16 BFG AT ko's were 61 lb each, pretty close....and bothere were 33" diameter....and they were both mounted on stock rims...but I got ~ 20 mpg on the AT ko's, and ~ 16 mpg on the LTB's....JUST because of the higher rolling resistance of the LTB's.

My 305/70/16 BFG KM2's are also 59 lb....also 33", and on stock rims....and the mpg is closer to 18 mpg with them.

So, as the TW's have a lot of weight, and, a high rolling resistance, plus, you might have heavier rims too...you will be best friends with the local petroleum purveyors.

:D
 
SnickerDoodle

SnickerDoodle

Life's Better Seeing Pink
Founding Member
Location
Winlsow Twsp, NJ
Well, a little bit of cutting was done over the weekend. This will allow me to cut the wheel and turn and not worry about rubbing. I still have to flex her out to see what rubs when the tire is tucked into the wheel well. But for now, with it being freezing out, this will do.

The line of cutting.
cut.jpg


The first cut.
cut1.jpg


The final product.
done.jpg


I thought enough was cut, however a few months later and a day in the Pine Barrens the wheels have been tucked so much that I realize that more has to be cut.
 
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SnickerDoodle

SnickerDoodle

Life's Better Seeing Pink
Founding Member
Location
Winlsow Twsp, NJ
Used a angle grinder because I assumed a sawzall would be too choppy of a cut. Then took a little sander air tool (not sure what it's called and sanded down the rough edges and used a body hammer to roll the edge in. Finished it off with bedliner to the bare edge to prevent from rusting.
 
SnickerDoodle

SnickerDoodle

Life's Better Seeing Pink
Founding Member
Location
Winlsow Twsp, NJ
Thanks. It's crazy how while working on something makes you think of so many other mods you want to do. I'm thinking that after I do more cutting to fit the stuffing of the tire when its tucked up in there that i may take some C channel molding and wrap the edges from what i cut. Just to give it a clean look. It's the same molding that Ricel used to finish off his fliphitch and what i will also be using to finish my fliphitch.
 
J Everett

J Everett

Suspension Lift
Founding Member
Location
Houma, LA
SnickerDoodle said:
Thanks. It's crazy how while working on something makes you think of so many other mods you want to do. I'm thinking that after I do more cutting to fit the stuffing of the tire when its tucked up in there that i may take some C channel molding and wrap the edges from what i cut. Just to give it a clean look. It's the same molding that Ricel used to finish off his fliphitch and what i will also be using to finish my fliphitch.
Click to expand...


That will be a nice way to finish it off. Man, that hitch flip mod was truly inspired.
 
SnickerDoodle

SnickerDoodle

Life's Better Seeing Pink
Founding Member
Location
Winlsow Twsp, NJ
Thanks Guys! :-D

Once i find the perfect black and pink checkered pattern the headliner will be getting a make over. I have the total sag going and i found someone to do it for $40 and if i want the doors done i can add another $75.
 
Xterra Mike

Xterra Mike

Test Drive
Founding Member
Location
Philly
Lookin good. Keep an eye out for steering stuff. That should be next on your list. Those 33's will kill stock steering.
 
Jmac289gt

Jmac289gt

Sliders
Founding Member
Location
Dickinson, TX
Sorry for the stupid question, I went back and reread your list of mods, I guess that tire and wheel combo seems very tall for some reason in your pictures.

Off topic: I have to laugh at your stick people everytime I see it, it reminds me of my wife and I.
 
SnickerDoodle

SnickerDoodle

Life's Better Seeing Pink
Founding Member
Location
Winlsow Twsp, NJ
Well this weekend I FINALLY replaced my heater core. And to be quite honest... it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be. My core was still good, but seeing as though NO ONE sells the hard plastic tubes that connect from the core and run thru the firewall I had no choice but to buy a whole new core. I did keep my old core and the lower of the two hard plastics tubes, incase anyone is to need these later on down the line.

I wasn't sure why there was cause to take out the entire dash, but I then realized while doing the break down... there are two bolts that are NOT accessable without taking the entire dash out.

I'll try to break down the pics for ya, sorry I didnt take one with each step but.. hey it's taking apart the dash.. it's TONS of screws. LoL

Mind you I already had my core bypassed before starting this.

Remove glove box
IMAG1114.jpg


Remove center colsole, steering column plastic, trim for radio, heater controls, the radio, etc. I removed two metal brackets that are behind the plastic trim as well.
IMAG1115.jpg


Unattach the A/C hoses from the engine side of the fire wall. Be mindful to loosen the cap for the antifreeze on the rad before loosening the connectors. If you don't do this you will have a lovey mist of antifreeze spew all over your engine.
IMAG1116.jpg


I can see the witch of a heater core! ::Insert many curse words sworn at the core:: I have already removed the black box that contains the AC unit.
IMAG1117.jpg


*sorry for the blurry shot* The center black unit is what you will be removing.
IMAG1118.jpg


Driver side shot... you can thank the boyfriend for it being a crappy picture.
IMAG1119.jpg


After I went Office Space on the old core are retreived it back from the other side of the front yard. The old core gets the finger. The whole core had to be replaced because of this little break in the heater core tube that was not even an inch of tubing.
IMAG1121.jpg


You can't see it but I can feel it! She's blowing hot!!! However, the blower only works on 3 and 4. I have to play around with the blower cable to get it to go back to the original setting.
IMAG1125.jpg
 
RacerXXL

RacerXXL

First Fill-Up (of many)
Founding Member
Location
North Alabama
Outstanding Doodle. :D My heater core starts to leak I'm gonna chuck in 5 gallons of gasoline and a road flare. :happy:
 
R

ryandavenport

Guest
RacerXXL said:
Outstanding Doodle. :D My heater core starts to leak I'm gonna chuck in 5 gallons of gasoline and a road flare. :happy:
Click to expand...

I agree. Now I will pray every night that mine doesn't go out lol
 
SnickerDoodle

SnickerDoodle

Life's Better Seeing Pink
Founding Member
Location
Winlsow Twsp, NJ
Lmao.. Its odd I didn't see it as being a hassle at all. It was a nice day and it was nice spending time with the bf doing something we both enjoy. oddly enough I didn't get frustrated once the whole day. Good thing is, now if someone else.locally goes I can help lol
 
civicjoe

civicjoe

lone wolf mod
Founding Member
Location
Nevada
SnickerDoodle said:
Well this weekend I FINALLY replaced my heater core. And to be quite honest... it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be. My core was still good, but seeing as though NO ONE sells the hard plastic tubes that connect from the core and run thru the firewall I had no choice but to buy a whole new core. I did keep my old core and the lower of the two hard plastics tubes, incase anyone is to need these later on down the line.

I wasn't sure why there was cause to take out the entire dash, but I then realized while doing the break down... there are two bolts that are NOT accessable without taking the entire dash out.

I'll try to break down the pics for ya, sorry I didnt take one with each step but.. hey it's taking apart the dash.. it's TONS of screws. LoL

Mind you I already had my core bypassed before starting this.

Remove glove box
IMAG1114.jpg


Remove center colsole, steering column plastic, trim for radio, heater controls, the radio, etc. I removed two metal brackets that are behind the plastic trim as well.
IMAG1115.jpg


Unattach the A/C hoses from the engine side of the fire wall. Be mindful to loosen the cap for the antifreeze on the rad before loosening the connectors. If you don't do this you will have a lovey mist of antifreeze spew all over your engine.
IMAG1116.jpg


I can see the witch of a heater core! ::Insert many curse words sworn at the core:: I have already removed the black box that contains the AC unit.
IMAG1117.jpg


*sorry for the blurry shot* The center black unit is what you will be removing.
IMAG1118.jpg


Driver side shot... you can thank the boyfriend for it being a crappy picture.
IMAG1119.jpg


After I went Office Space on the old core are retreived it back from the other side of the front yard. The old core gets the finger. The whole core had to be replaced because of this little break in the heater core tube that was not even an inch of tubing.
IMAG1121.jpg


You can't see it but I can feel it! She's blowing hot!!! However, the blower only works on 3 and 4. I have to play around with the blower cable to get it to go back to the original setting.
IMAG1125.jpg
Click to expand...

You going to write up an independent how to on this doodle?


Sent from the Nighthog mobile command unit.
 
SnickerDoodle

SnickerDoodle

Life's Better Seeing Pink
Founding Member
Location
Winlsow Twsp, NJ
Welp.. Xterra Mike was correct... Seems as though just the rear is shot but why do only one right?! RIGHT! That's what I thought, so i'll replace both this weekend. While i'm at it i think i may pick up some wheel bearings to have on hand as well. Sounds like the front passenger may be going. But instead of tearing it all apart i'm going to do the u-joints first and then see if the noise goes away when i turn left. lol

gobble I need a garage with heat!
 
SnickerDoodle

SnickerDoodle

Life's Better Seeing Pink
Founding Member
Location
Winlsow Twsp, NJ
Finally had a nice enough weekend to change out my u-joints.

First off I couldn't get the drive shaft out after finally getting it out I had to take all the darn tootin clips out of the u-joints. The biotch to follow that was actually getting the joints out. Rented a press... which didnt do jack! I ended up driving my BFs lexis over to my friends shop and taking a torch to to the u-joints. The easiest thing was to just melt them away. 5 mins of a nice hot flame and Bam! old joints are now a pile of melted metal. *Warning- the grease in them will pop and can land on skin- Thankfully I was wearing gloves* The new u-joints are now in and running smooth as butter! And a extra bonus, realizing that i bought grease-able u-joints!
 
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