Here are the WKO slider instructions in regular font, and I’m adding my notes, corrections, and additions in green. Instructions can be found here in PDF, but pictures are in black and white. I took some video that’s not great, but I’m including improved visuals via screenshot where I can.
Tools Needed
3/8” Drill
1/8”, 1/4", 5/16”, & 7/16” Drill Bits (7/16” is just for marking, so any quality is fine. For the others, have multiple and/or high quality bits, as well as lube.)
Center Punch and Hammer
Air Impact Wrench if available
3/4”, 16mm, 19mm Wrenches (3/4” is not used at any point)
9/16” Socket and Ratchet
“C” Clamps
2 Axle Stands
Bottle Jack
Needle Nose Pliers
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Prestep 1. Clean! You don’t want to trap rust, dirt, and whatever else between your sliders and frame. Don’t forget the inside of the frame like I did at first. I cleaned, wire-brushed, and hit a couple areas with Rustoleum rust reformer.
Prestep 2. For the passenger side at least in my case, I had to disconnect a plastic clip holding the wire loom to the frame. This would’ve been easier before getting on the jack.
1. Place the axle stands or jack directly under the rocker panel. Place the slider on the axle stands or jack Figure 1.
2. The factory holes in the frame should be aligned to allow the 1/2” bolts to go thru the mounting plates and the frame. The main rail should be level and around 1/2” to 1” below the rocker panel.
3. Thread the 1/2” x 4” bolt and flat washer thru the frame and the backing plate in the front and center mounting plates Figure 2. Begin the nuts but keep them loose for the time being to allow for adjustment of the slider position.
4. Insert the 1/4” x 1-1/4” backing plate with welded nut (nut facing away from the bolt hole) through the slot in the bottom of the frame near the rear mounting plate and start the 1/2” x 2” bolt, lock washer, and flat washer Figure 3. Needle nose pliers work best to insert the backing plate through the slot. Keep all of the 1/2" fasteners loose to allow adjustment of the slider.
5. Push the M12 x 30mm Grade 10.9 bolt and washer through the bottom of the front mounting plate Figure 4. Begin the nuts but keep them loose for the time being to allow for adjustment of the slider position.
6. Now adjust the slider front to rear and make sure the bottom of the “L” mounting plates are snug under the frame (a bottle jack is best for this). Clamp the mounting plates to the frame or tighten the 1/2" bolts thru the factory frame holes in the desired position. “C” clamps, if used, should be as high as possible on the mounting plate to eliminate any gap between the frame and the top of the vertical portion of the mounting plate.
7. Stand back to take a look at the slider in relation to the vehicle body. Make sure the rock slider is in the desired position, level, and no gaps between the frame and the mounting plates. Mark the holes to be drilled on the underside and face of the frame with the 7/16” drill bit by turning the bit back and forth by hand Figure 5. This will help you find the exact center of each hole. Now remove the rock slider to drill the holes needed.
8. Find the marks on the frame made by the drill bit. Use the center punch on each of these marks for pre-drilling Figure 6. Use a BIG hammer.
9. Drill a pilot hole thru each of the marks with a 1/8” drill bit and then a 1/4” drill bit and finally a 5/16” drill bit. Make sure to keep the drill perpendicular to the frame when drilling the holes to insure the bolts go in straight Figure 7. (I don’t have a picture of this one, but you don’t need one.) Use a quality bit, and spray lube as you go so you don’t overheat and break your bits.
10. Using the 9/16” socket and ratchet or air impact wrench (recommended), begin the supplied 3/8” X 1” Thread Cutting bolts. Keep the bolts perpendicular to the frame with significant pressure against the back of the ratchet as you begin cutting the threads in the frame Figure 8. Continue tightening the bolts until they are easy to turn. The impact wrench is best for this procedure if available. Do not attempt to unscrew the bolt until the threads have been completely cut. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN or you may strip out the threads you just cut. I actually put my sliders back up and on first. If you do, just make sure the holes are lined up first.
11. Repeat steps 1 thru 6 to install bolts and backing plates along with the 3/8” x 1” thread cutting bolts. Rotate from bolt to bolt and end to end to insure the mounting plates have no gaps between them and the frame and continue until all bolts are tight.
Tools Needed
3/8” Drill
1/8”, 1/4", 5/16”, & 7/16” Drill Bits (7/16” is just for marking, so any quality is fine. For the others, have multiple and/or high quality bits, as well as lube.)
Center Punch and Hammer
Air Impact Wrench if available
3/4”, 16mm, 19mm Wrenches (3/4” is not used at any point)
9/16” Socket and Ratchet
“C” Clamps
2 Axle Stands
Bottle Jack
Needle Nose Pliers
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Prestep 1. Clean! You don’t want to trap rust, dirt, and whatever else between your sliders and frame. Don’t forget the inside of the frame like I did at first. I cleaned, wire-brushed, and hit a couple areas with Rustoleum rust reformer.
Prestep 2. For the passenger side at least in my case, I had to disconnect a plastic clip holding the wire loom to the frame. This would’ve been easier before getting on the jack.
1. Place the axle stands or jack directly under the rocker panel. Place the slider on the axle stands or jack Figure 1.
2. The factory holes in the frame should be aligned to allow the 1/2” bolts to go thru the mounting plates and the frame. The main rail should be level and around 1/2” to 1” below the rocker panel.
3. Thread the 1/2” x 4” bolt and flat washer thru the frame and the backing plate in the front and center mounting plates Figure 2. Begin the nuts but keep them loose for the time being to allow for adjustment of the slider position.
4. Insert the 1/4” x 1-1/4” backing plate with welded nut (nut facing away from the bolt hole) through the slot in the bottom of the frame near the rear mounting plate and start the 1/2” x 2” bolt, lock washer, and flat washer Figure 3. Needle nose pliers work best to insert the backing plate through the slot. Keep all of the 1/2" fasteners loose to allow adjustment of the slider.
5. Push the M12 x 30mm Grade 10.9 bolt and washer through the bottom of the front mounting plate Figure 4. Begin the nuts but keep them loose for the time being to allow for adjustment of the slider position.
6. Now adjust the slider front to rear and make sure the bottom of the “L” mounting plates are snug under the frame (a bottle jack is best for this). Clamp the mounting plates to the frame or tighten the 1/2" bolts thru the factory frame holes in the desired position. “C” clamps, if used, should be as high as possible on the mounting plate to eliminate any gap between the frame and the top of the vertical portion of the mounting plate.
7. Stand back to take a look at the slider in relation to the vehicle body. Make sure the rock slider is in the desired position, level, and no gaps between the frame and the mounting plates. Mark the holes to be drilled on the underside and face of the frame with the 7/16” drill bit by turning the bit back and forth by hand Figure 5. This will help you find the exact center of each hole. Now remove the rock slider to drill the holes needed.
8. Find the marks on the frame made by the drill bit. Use the center punch on each of these marks for pre-drilling Figure 6. Use a BIG hammer.
9. Drill a pilot hole thru each of the marks with a 1/8” drill bit and then a 1/4” drill bit and finally a 5/16” drill bit. Make sure to keep the drill perpendicular to the frame when drilling the holes to insure the bolts go in straight Figure 7. (I don’t have a picture of this one, but you don’t need one.) Use a quality bit, and spray lube as you go so you don’t overheat and break your bits.
10. Using the 9/16” socket and ratchet or air impact wrench (recommended), begin the supplied 3/8” X 1” Thread Cutting bolts. Keep the bolts perpendicular to the frame with significant pressure against the back of the ratchet as you begin cutting the threads in the frame Figure 8. Continue tightening the bolts until they are easy to turn. The impact wrench is best for this procedure if available. Do not attempt to unscrew the bolt until the threads have been completely cut. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN or you may strip out the threads you just cut. I actually put my sliders back up and on first. If you do, just make sure the holes are lined up first.
11. Repeat steps 1 thru 6 to install bolts and backing plates along with the 3/8” x 1” thread cutting bolts. Rotate from bolt to bolt and end to end to insure the mounting plates have no gaps between them and the frame and continue until all bolts are tight.
