The Dumb Question Thread

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
Anyone else ever have extra good aftermarket parts think ‘maybe I should buy another rig to use this on’ instead of ‘good spare to have’ or ‘maybe I should try selling this’?

When I have the storage space I usually hang onto stuff unless it's something I know I'll never end up using.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
So I'm waiting on my other leaf pack to arrive and had a question on hardware..
I just put nisstec shackles on about 1500 miles ago and had to get new bushings for the leaf packs when we did it. I also put on a u bolt flip kit with new hardware at the same time.

Am I ok using the bushings and ubolts/nuts or would you guys put in new stuffs?
 

kryter

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Aurora Colorado
So I'm waiting on my other leaf pack to arrive and had a question on hardware..
I just put nisstec shackles on about 1500 miles ago and had to get new bushings for the leaf packs when we did it. I also put on a u bolt flip kit with new hardware at the same time.

Am I ok using the bushings and ubolts/nuts or would you guys put in new stuffs?
make sure to get the sticky grease and coat the shiat out of those bushings..also when I put on my leaf packs I broke them down and lubed those as well still no squeaking yet btw ome as well modified
 

CAchief

First Fill-Up (of many)
I got the common ABS/VDC OFF/SLIP lights about a week ago. Figured I would invest in a blue driver scanner and these are the codes it pulled:
Screenshot_20201222-213722_BlueDriver.jpg

Brake fluid is good, pads were replaced ~7k miles ago and I'm still able to activate 4wd.

I was optimistic I would get a speed sensor code, but I'm starting to think this is a bigger issue.

Any ideas before I head to the dealer??
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
That's a bummer.. I don't have any ideas and I don't think Terry is up this late. I'm sure by 630a MT you'll have some traffic.

How's it running?
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
I would get a diagram of the ground connections. It logs like your CANBUS system is the issue. It's best to start with cleaning and reattaching all the grounds to the harness around the pump to to eliminate that issue.
 

westslope

Wheeling
I would get a diagram of the ground connections. It logs like your CANBUS system is the issue. It's best to start with cleaning and reattaching all the grounds to the harness around the pump to to eliminate that issue.
Maintaining the ground connections -- I totally get -- and I am wondering if this is smart preventative maintenance for some of us.

DQ: What pump are you referring to?
 

29erClan

Bought an X
Location
Meh
U1000 can cause all those if the root cause is the ABS controller not getting good power supply. A controller not getting good power can throw all kinds of random codes pointing at things that aren't really failing.

The trans and transfer case both rely on the ABS unit sending out a good speed signal. In turn it needs good signal from all 4 wheels. But if it really was a wheel sensor you would probably get a specific sensor code. The U1000 is a general communications fault code.

Besides the stuff Terry said, you may also want check the battery, alternator, and IPDM/fuses. Basically everything power related needs to be checked. Then the CAN wiring, etc, until you get the U1000 clear. It says in the FSM that those are priority 1 and trying to fix other things first is pretty much chasing your tail.
 

CAchief

First Fill-Up (of many)
I would get a diagram of the ground connections. It logs like your CANBUS system is the issue. It's best to start with cleaning and reattaching all the grounds to the harness around the pump to to eliminate that issue.

U1000 can cause all those if the root cause is the ABS controller not getting good power supply. A controller not getting good power can throw all kinds of random codes pointing at things that aren't really failing.

The trans and transfer case both rely on the ABS unit sending out a good speed signal. In turn it needs good signal from all 4 wheels. But if it really was a wheel sensor you would probably get a specific sensor code. The U1000 is a general communications fault code.

Besides the stuff Terry said, you may also want check the battery, alternator, and IPDM/fuses. Basically everything power related needs to be checked. Then the CAN wiring, etc, until you get the U1000 clear. It says in the FSM that those are priority 1 and trying to fix other things first is pretty much chasing your tail.

Thanks guys! Of course when I was driving around this morning the lights disappear and codes clear. I've tested the battery and alternator. Need to look at the IPDM/fuses I guess.
 

CocoLoco74

Bought an X
Location
Virginia
Does anyone know if Nissan has changed coolant mixes? I purchased my Xterra a few months ago, the coolant color looks yellow, I read of other colors used, never this. It still looks clean and clear I keep checking for signs of Smod with nothing presently. Would this be a brand specific thing? The dealer stated they were selling with no known recalls. Getting close to purchasing new rad for it. The parts number present is one in the Smod list on site. Wondering if they magically created a mix that retards the occurrence of Smod? Thanks for any advice.
 

CocoLoco74

Bought an X
Location
Virginia
Greetings all getting close to maintenance time, have lots of concerns and questions, with not much to spend. I am great full for this community and your knowledge, wondering would there be a members build list that uses quality budget supplies, liquids, parts etc?
 

CAchief

First Fill-Up (of many)
Greetings all getting close to maintenance time, have lots of concerns and questions, with not much to spend. I am great full for this community and your knowledge, wondering would there be a members build list that uses quality budget supplies, liquids, parts etc?

What's your mileage?
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
PXL_20201221_210834547.jpg How the heck do I get my door panel to stay clipped into place? A year ago I took all four off to replace the speakers, and the back two doors always stay popped off on the bottom. I can pop it back in and it stays until I close the door, when it pops back off. All the clips are fine and functional, and there's nothing out of place causing it to push away. Could it just be the plastic clips are worn slightly but not fully broke?
 

Brunnie

Bumpers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Colorado Springs
View attachment 16420 How the heck do I get my door panel to stay clipped into place? A year ago I took all four off to replace the speakers, and the back two doors always stay popped off on the bottom. I can pop it back in and it stays until I close the door, when it pops back off. All the clips are fine and functional, and there's nothing out of place causing it to push away. Could it just be the plastic clips are worn slightly but not fully broke?
Quite possibly, more than likely if you have had the door panel off several times. If you think you will be taking the panel off several more times, or other panels for that matter, go to Amazon and buy a bag of clips.
https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Panel...88059&sprefix=nissan+interior+,aps,248&sr=8-3
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Quite possibly, more than likely if you have had the door panel off several times. If you think you will be taking the panel off several more times, or other panels for that matter, go to Amazon and buy a bag of clips.
https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Panel-Retainer-90467-10188-Sienna/dp/B0040CTTH4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=8GABOXRTQR47&dchild=1&keywords=nissan+interior+trim+clips&qid=1609388059&sprefix=nissan+interior+,aps,248&sr=8-3

Thanks. For that cheap I went ahead and ordered and I'll replace one side to see what happens.
 

11ORX

Test Drive
Location
South Dakota
View attachment 16420 How the heck do I get my door panel to stay clipped into place?

Are you sure you are using the clips correctly? Each clip is designed to separate into two pieces - one piece that stays attached to the trim and the other piece that stays attached to the body. In my experience, they rarely separate when you pull the panel off. Either the entire clip stays attached to the panel or to the body. If it doesn't separate you have to use a claw-shaped trim removal tool (or two flathead screwdrivers) to break the clip apart. Attach the male half to the trim and the female half to the body and then snap the trim into place. If you don't separate the halves before reattaching the trim, chances are good that one of the halves isn't properly seated into the trim or body.
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Are you sure you are using the clips correctly? Each clip is designed to separate into two pieces - one piece that stays attached to the trim and the other piece that stays attached to the body. In my experience, they rarely separate when you pull the panel off. Either the entire clip stays attached to the panel or to the body. If it doesn't separate you have to use a claw-shaped trim removal tool (or two flathead screwdrivers) to break the clip apart. Attach the male half to the trim and the female half to the body and then snap the trim into place. If you don't separate the halves before reattaching the trim, chances are good that one of the halves isn't properly seated into the trim or body.

If that's the case, then yeah I'm doing it wrong. I think they're attached to the door panel only. I'll see if I can separate them and make one half stick in the actual door. Thanks.
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
Ok, been looking at a 1st gen X to get as a graduation gift for my son. For starters, prices are lower, had a ‘01 and loved it, track record in here is worthy. Since living in NY, I’m digging further south for cancer free prospects. During my search, I’m seeing a bunch on Craigslist and Facebook marketplace. One in particular on Facebook is a supercharged ‘02 SE for $3900 near Weatherly, Pa. I won’t mention the owners name, but I bring it up because of the supercharger. Is that package something I should avoid for its age and that it’d be driven by my 18 yr old? Anyone here who checked out my ‘12 since I bought it knows what I did to it. No assistance, so I’m comfortable with mechanicals with the exception of a garage lift or engine hoist. Any key aspects I should look at first besides fluids, timing belt, water pump as I’ve read elsewhere so far? Funds aren’t bottomless, so I’m balancing a better X for more $ that’s negotiable for maintenance repairs and TLC. Ooooor, anyone here knows someone in Pa parting with one of these 1st gen X’s that I could be leaned towards before I start my 4-7 hr treks?
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
Are Pro4x (front passenger) seats only leather or fold flat cloth, or did any ship with non-fold flat cloth seats?
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Are you sure you are using the clips correctly? Each clip is designed to separate into two pieces - one piece that stays attached to the trim and the other piece that stays attached to the body. In my experience, they rarely separate when you pull the panel off. Either the entire clip stays attached to the panel or to the body. If it doesn't separate you have to use a claw-shaped trim removal tool (or two flathead screwdrivers) to break the clip apart. Attach the male half to the trim and the female half to the body and then snap the trim into place. If you don't separate the halves before reattaching the trim, chances are good that one of the halves isn't properly seated into the trim or body.

If that's the case, then yeah I'm doing it wrong. I think they're attached to the door panel only. I'll see if I can separate them and make one half stick in the actual door. Thanks.

I never did update this... in my case (2015, S trim) they were all indeed one piece. There was no separating. It turns out the issue was that the speaker mounts I used were just slightly too thick and were catching the door panel. A couple minutes with a box cutter blade and the issue is 100% fixed. I didn't realize until just recently from @roXterra1 doing door molle panels that the 2015 has slightly different door plastic.
 

Blind_Io

Test Drive
I have PRG UCAs and the ball joints (non-sealed style) are making horrible noises - does anyone know the part number for replacement ball joints that fit those UCAs?
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I have PRG UCAs and the ball joints (non-sealed style) are making horrible noises - does anyone know the part number for replacement ball joints that fit those UCAs?
Sounds to me like a call to Greg and get a uniball rebuild kit.

 

Blind_Io

Test Drive
Sounds to me like a call to Greg and get a uniball rebuild kit.

Nuts. So those should arrive some time in late 2022.

Thanks
 
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