Shock Length?

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
I was doing some investigating and IIRC my OE Extended travel 2.0 Rads are only 1" shorter full extension than TS 2.0 Rads.

Since most folks aren't using the full amount of up travel anyways, I was considering running my Rads with a 2" lift spacer and bump stopping to keep from bottoming them out.
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
Do you know what your fully extended length is? There’s a lot of good research around this (which I’m sure you’ve seen) on CF in Glamisdude’s threads.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Do you know what your fully extended length is? There’s a lot of good research around this (which I’m sure you’ve seen) on CF in Glamisdude’s threads.
I haven't seriously started reading up on it yet but I've measured my Rads and a buddy's TS Rads and there was only an inch difference.

I was ORIGINALLY considering running his Rads in my OE width setup for the added travel since I'm running a spacer on my Rads now.

I'll havento check out that thread though.
 

KC!

Bought an X
That would definitely work but it would mainly be dependent on your bump stop length, I believe. Also, I thought the Radflos has internal bump stops?
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
That would definitely work but it would mainly be dependent on your bump stop length, I believe. Also, I thought the Radflos has internal bump stops?
Adjusting the bump stops isn't a big deal, I'm using some Energy Suspension pieces to limit my up travel now because my SPCs hit my inner wheel wells hard enough to bend some bolts behind the plastic liner.
 

AdventureRider81

Bought an X
Location
Savannah, GA
That would definitely work but it would mainly be dependent on your bump stop length, I believe. Also, I thought the Radflos has internal bump stops?

They do but........ If you go through Albatross Cafe's build thread there is some info in there where he sent out is RAD's for a rebuild and the internal bump stops where toast. The shocks had a fairly low amount of miles on them and the rebuild was pricey. A strap and bump up front could save the headache of rebuilding shocks often.
 

AlbatrossCafe

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Western WA
They do but........ If you go through Albatross Cafe's build thread there is some info in there where he sent out is RAD's for a rebuild and the internal bump stops where toast. The shocks had a fairly low amount of miles on them and the rebuild was pricey. A strap and bump up front could save the headache of rebuilding shocks often.

True, and I think I am at that point again lol. I was supposed to put limit straps on after the first rebuild... now I think I finally learned my lesson. The coilovers clunk SUPER LOUDLY when dropping off a rock or going into a pothole. It's terrible. Feels like a 50 year old car in the front. IDK if that is just Radflo or what.

Bottoming out isn't a problem though with nice progressive bump stops. I think using the spacer so he doesn't lose the down travel is gonna be better than nothing.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Got a good price on some MOOG lcas, factory ucas and QX56 shafts. Really leaning toward the swap.

Run OE wheels and 285s to keep it narrow as I can and low. Maybe add adjustable rear shackles and bump the lift up closer to 3" so I can use more of my rear shock travel. The arch and capacity of the Alcans keep me from getting full droop as it sits.
 

AdventureRider81

Bought an X
Location
Savannah, GA
True, and I think I am at that point again lol. I was supposed to put limit straps on after the first rebuild... now I think I finally learned my lesson. The coilovers clunk SUPER LOUDLY when dropping off a rock or going into a pothole. It's terrible. Feels like a 50 year old car in the front. IDK if that is just Radflo or what.

Bottoming out isn't a problem though with nice progressive bump stops. I think using the spacer so he doesn't lose the down travel is gonna be better than nothing.

I'm in the same boat. Everything polyurethane squeaks horribly and greasing only cures it temporarily. I did find quite a bit of the "clunk" comes from the stock Titan LCA's. They're may be a cure for that. PRG makes a Delrin spacer for it. Link here https://www.prgproducts.com/product-page/delrin-lower-a-arm-bushing-donuts. I just get them but, haven't had time to install yet. Talking to Greg on the phone his explanation was over time the rubber bushings on the LCA's deteriorate and can cause the LCA to have a tiny bit of forward and aft play, resulting in a "clunk". The Delrin doughnuts removes the play, and holds up longer then the rubber, in thoery.



Must of the hideous noises on my X come from the forward leaf spring poly bushings on the Alcan's. I am looking for something better there. I'm tired of lubing those things all the time. Atlas makes leaf springs with rubber bushings that would be quit but, likely won't hold up long for off road use.
 
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General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
I'm in the same boat. Everything polyurethane squeaks horribly and greasing only cures it temporarily. I did find quite a bit of the "clunk" comes from the stock Titan LCA's. They're may be a cure for that. PRG makes a Delrin spacer for it. Link here https://www.prgproducts.com/product-page/delrin-lower-a-arm-bushing-donuts. I just get them but, haven't had time to install yet. Talking to Greg on the phone his explanation was over time the rubber bushings on the LCA's deteriorate and can cause the LCA to have a tiny bit of forward and aft play, resulting in a "clunk". The Delrin doughnuts removes the play, and holds up longer then the rubber, in thoery.



Must of the hideous noises on my X come from the forward leaf spring poly bushings on the Alcan's. I am looking for something better there. I'm tired of lubing those things all the time. Atlas makes leaf springs with rubber bushings that would be quit but, likely won't hold up long for off road use.

I have those Delrin donuts on mine, I installed them at the same time as new LCA's with the theory that they would help the rubber bushings hold up a bit longer than if they were flexing back and forth. I think they make the ride a bit harsher by not letting the arms move around at their mounts but other than that I have no complaints.

I'm not a big fan of poly, it's sold as a lifetime product but they deteriorate just like rubber does over time. I had poly rack bushings that turned into cottage cheese after a few years one time.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
It took several years but I finally went through with this.

I'm currently running:
Extended OE Rads with 650lb/in Springs
1.5" thick (2" lift) PRG tophat spacer
SPC Titan UCAs
OE Titan LCAs
Nisstec Titan Swap Brake Hoses
Energy Suspension 9.9101G Bump Stops tapped into the factory bump pad on the frame

I have full (safe) range of motion in my suspension. From just below the fender lip at full compression on the bump stops to just before the budget QX56 CV shafts begin to bind at full droop.

20230506_111938.jpg

So far I'm really happy with this setup. I'll be on the lookout for some OE QX56 shafts or someone selling some R180 T-swap shafts I can put factory CV joints on to see if there's any more droop to be had in the front and decide where to go on the front shocks at that point.
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
I'll be on the lookout for some OE QX56 shafts or someone selling some R180 T-swap shafts I can put factory CV joints on to see if there's any more droop to be had in the front and decide where to go on the front shocks at that point

As you may have read in my build thread, I am about to install the M205 I have since my R180 has decided it's all done.

That said, I will have 3 OEM / Rugged Rocks / CVJ R180 Titan Swap CV shafts available.

All three have OEM CV's, the shafts are all Rugged Rocks R180/Titan Length, and the boot's are all CVJ neoprene.

PM me and we can discuss getting them to you, if you like...... I know we're on opposite sides of the country.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Can someone with 2.5" Rads verify length from the top of the mounting surface of the shock to center of the lower mounting bolt at full extension for me?
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
Well I measured a 2.0 Titan Length Raflo at 17.5" so I need verification on the 2.5s.
18 3/8" is the optimal titan swap length. That is from Greg at PRG. It's the length he specd his Radflo's. And it's now the length I'm running in the 2.5 remote res. But it's also the length Greg spec'd for all his titan swap shocks regardless of shock body width.
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
Can you pull a tape on yours and verify? Not saying you're wrong but I'm looking for imperial data, not "theoretical ideal".
I have, many times. It's 18 3/8" The reason it's stuck in my brain, is this. After I got coil bind and broke both my lower control arms, I went through a massive process of figuring out why, and how. I spoke with John at Radflo, Greg at PRG, and @jsexton about a hundred times. I ended up replacing the Eibac 12" 600 lb coils that came stock on the shocks, with ICON 13" 650's , then I added a 1/2" spacer to to achieve the optimal 18 3/8" that Greg had talked about, and was indeed verified against MaxGear Armor's 2.5 remote res that were infact purchased from PRG. So, I can definitively tell you from spending WAY too much time on this very subject that 18 3/8" is what you want.

When I said Nisstec got it wrong, I was speaking from experience, because that's what I'm running.
 
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TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
I have, many times. It's 18 3/8" The reason it's stuck in my brain, is this. After I got coil bind and broke both my lower control arms, I went through a massive process of figuring out why, and how. I spoke with John at Radflo, Greg at PRG, and @jsexton about a hundred times. I ended up replacing the Eibac 12" 600 lb coils that came stock on the shocks, with ICON 13" 650's , then I added a 1/2" spacer to to achieve the optimal 18 3/8" that Greg had talked about, and was indeed verified against MaxGear Armor's 2.5 remote res that were infact purchased from PRG. So, I can definitively tell you from spending WAY too much time on this very subject that 18 3/8" is what you want.

When I said Nisstec got it wrong, I was speaking from experience, because that's what I'm running.
So your shocks are actually about 17 7/8" then?

Are they IFP or remote reservoir?
 
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IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
So your shocks are actually about 17 7/8" then?

Are they IFP or remote reservoir?
Yes the were built to Nisstec Spec at 17 7/8" (which is not great)
And they are remote res.

The ideal length for any titan swap shock is 18 3/8" from coil bucket to bolt center.
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
Now I gotta go and measure my TS coils. I had the same discussion with Greg about 6 years ago when I did my basic 3" lift then. Did the full droop 'til bind, then back off 1/4" for TS same as I did before. I wonder how close I am to that 18 3/8" now that I'm TS. I'm also now using Nisstec's TS MKII, so I'll also check their shock length for comparison.
Yes the were built to Nisstec Spec at 17 7/8" (which is not great)
And they are remote res.

The ideal length for any titan swap shock is 18 3/8" from coil bucket to bolt center.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
My 2.0 Radflos are more Nisstec bastard length, "kinda extended" 16.5" length.

I'm running a 1.5" thick PRG lift spacer on top for a total of 18" OAL.

I am just shy of CV bind with my Rock Auto QX56 shafts.
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
You know, on this topic, there is zero reason people at Z1 or AllDogsOffroad can't grab one of each shock off the shelf, put them on a table, and measure them and do a comparison. It's really frustrating that people that claim to be experts have the ability to find this information within minutes and yet choose not to do it. I've been on the phone with Z1 three times in the last week asking basic questions they just can't answer. I don't get it. AllDogsOffroad seem like great guys, but they always recommend whatever the newest thing is, and that makes me skeptical of their recommendations. I haven't asked them directly, but they also don't put basic info like length, spring rate, etc on their product pages.

Sorry for the rant. I'm just tired of half-assed support from the very few vendors that remain.
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
I'm just tired of half-assed support from the very few vendors that remain.
To be fair the only person who has never been half-assed, is Steve from Rugged Rocks. The bummer is, he just hasn't had the community support. And, as noted above, with regard to Radflo or any other custom shock, the retailer is the one who specs the shock, so they tend to be different. i.e. PRG and Nisstec; same shock different specs.
 
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