Xterrorista's "the X"

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
received_525176554828426.jpeg received_655449621914805.jpeg 20191023_234533.jpg 20190824_130950.jpg Xterrorista
2007 Xterra X 4x4 5AT 214k miles
Avalanche White
"The X" first name The, last name X

Mudflap delete, rear hatch squeak delete
265/75R16 Big O Linglong AT

SUSPENSION
Front
-SPC LCA camber bolts
-All Dogs Coop 2" lift springs @ 500#
-Adj Bilstein 5100's p/n 24-187053
Rear
-Nisstec adj lift shackles @ 2"
-Bilstein 2-4" 5100's
-All Dogs U-bolt flip kit

ARMOR
-Shrockworks front bumper w/ pre runner hoop, shackles and winch
-SW's sliders with step plates
-SW's transfer case skid

Will eventually armor the rest of the bottom

Extras, Goodies and Dodads
-glass breaker tool on visor
-Smittybilt XRC 9500 cable winch
-fog lights with 5200 lumen amber bulbs
-McMaster 175# liftgate struts & Hardware
-OG rear diff breather extension w/ filter
-14" rear wiper blade
-WeatherTech rain vents and floor pans
-Wireless Bluetooth device links phone to factory stereo
-Fire extinguisher
-Bug out bag with clothes, food, water, flashlights, batteries, fire starter, knives, duct tape, am/fm/sw/NOAA/solar/hand-crank/battery radio
-Tool bag, straps and bungies

Things to install
-President Andy CB, 4' Firestick Firefly, ext speaker and PA speaker under the hood (cuz I could)
-Digital 12V current gauge with dual USB ports. Replaces one cig light socket
-Some select stickers, yeah an XN one but it'd be cooler if it said "supporter" or something

Wants and Needs
-More recovery gear
-More armor
-
285/75R16 aggressive
-M226 w/e locker and an r180 @ 3.69
-LED forward off-road lights, thinking two or three KC style rounds
-LED side, rear and underhood lighting
-Power management system-fuse/relay box
-Maxterra rear bumper with all the goodies and a tire swing.
-RTT
-Fridge
-P4X rims
 
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Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Found out the shackles that didn't fit just right weren't even for this truck. Time to bitch at an Amazon seller.received_156180135805548.jpeg received_647224942778259.jpegLuckily Nisstec had a set here locally and when I showed up to take them to the shop Meeko had just finished powder coating them, nice~20200421_160803.jpg received_252981822555223.jpeg
And the U-bolt flip installed20200425_174653.jpg 20200425_174615.jpg
My leaves are about flat.. Time to take some measurements and put her on scales before calling Alcan.
 
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Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
20200425_174054.jpg Someone's put some knarly ass scratches on this hoop before it was even on there all the way..

What should I do, clear coat it? It's powder coated.
 
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TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
View attachment 13856 Someone's put some knarly ass scratches on this hoop before it was even on there all the way..

What should I do, clear coat it? It's powder coated.
I sprayed glossy Rustoleum on a piece of cardboard and used a brush with it to touch up the spots where mine fell off the pallet when I was installing it.

I just use Rustoleum spray to touch up my sliders too. Use some cardboard to block the overspray from hitting the body. But my X it's dark blue not bright white.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
All Dogs called me this am about the email I sent asking for advice on this 5100 and coil setup and why it's making so much noise.

Come to find out this set of springs I've got are 500# not 650#, I thought it felt a bit soft.
He also said they've put this combo on lifted 2nd gens with plate bumpers for over two years and the only reason it would make clanking noises is if the shop forgot to put a washer or gromet in with the shocks or they were not put together in the correct order. I got to the shop but didn't have room to lift it throw a torque wrench on anything but everything is solid looking and tight.

The lift adjustment is under the boot I guess as I couldn't find it by glance..
Whatcha think @TerryD ?
20200502_132247_HDR.jpg 20200502_132251.jpg 20200502_132303.jpg 20200502_134343.jpg 20200502_134355.jpg 20200502_134401.jpg 20200502_134409.jpg
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
It looks like the spring seat is assembled correctly. I'm not sure about how it's supposed to be put together on the top but it seems most shops just can't get that right with these.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Do you want to bring it by the house and I can take a look?
Ahh, I thought you'd never ask! Haha

I need to hit up the shop and see if he had leftover parts when he put these together. He also still has the hardware for my xfer skid, well, I'm hoping he does. It's just a pain getting up to Longmont and back to Aurora.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
It's back together and running smooth. I took it back to my buddies shop and asked wtfigoh?! I talked with Alldogs Offroad via email and phone and we assumed the shock was put together without the bottom washer or that the bottom washer was actually put on the top. After pulling the assembly out and apart we noticed the top hat/top strut mount with the captive rubber and washer was torn up and worn out with way too much play. Napa had them in stock for 21$ and once back together it cinched up a lot tighter and rides nice and smooth. No more bouncing on the hwy and zero noise.

I notice it added a little slop to the wheel at ~70 but it's not bothersome.

Now to get out on trail and see the differences. Next step is taking off both sway bars and get a feel for those differences too..
 
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Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
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So.. The saga continued after leaving the shop for the 2nd time. I didn't notice anything but improvement after the front strut mounts were replaced. I drove it home and parked it for a week. On the way home from the 2nd time driving it I got off the hwy and went into a severe left/right front & back sway. I came to a stop and tried pulling to the side but heard a huge clank and the truck slamming down.

All 6 lugnuts were gone and the tire had laid over wedging into the wheel well, the truck was now resting on it. DAMNIT! I just worked 13hrs and am exhausted standing in traffic.

Long story longer, I managed to find a block to jack it up enuff to get it back on. I was able to find 5 lugnuts that were scattered around but they wouldn't thread on. I ended up taking a nut off the other 3 wheels and limped it home.

Back at the shop for the 3rd time and was told the alignment shop must not have torqued them down although I don't think they'd have messed with the rear... The shop bought me a new 'used' rim that matched, replaced 6 studs and 12 longer lugnuts. They went back over everything and retorqued everything they had worked on and assured me it was right..

While waiting the day it took to get the rim, I was given an Outback with a brand new motor and turbo. I hate small cars but this was fun. 20200519_093854.jpg
I'm sorta kinda nervous about driving the X.. Not sure what to expect next~
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Well, I think I'd try a new shop. I'm all for giving someone the benefit of the doubt but damn...

Just get your tools out and go over everything yourself. It won't take but about 3 beers to do the entire suspension. Just do it one corner at a time. The specs are listed on the service manual.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Well, I think I'd try a new shop. I'm all for giving someone the benefit of the doubt but damn...

Just get your tools out and go over everything yourself. It won't take but about 3 beers to do the entire suspension. Just do it one corner at a time. The specs are listed on the service manual.
Yep, now that it's nicer weather I want to go over everything done below. I've been down there but never rolled around and really inspected it all. I know I've got a loose muffler shroud and plan to clamp it down. Seeing how everything I've touched so far has been OE, with 215k on it now I plan to start replacing worn parts.

Do you think I'd still have original ball joints and other steering components with this many miles?
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Another q for you @TerryD..

I plan to deal with the differentials as far as clean up, change fluids and maybe paint what I can. Would you go with synthetic or conv diif fluid?

With the engine I put a syn blend in when I bought it and have only changed it once with the same, seeing I've only put about 7k on it.
Would you swap to a full synthetic?

I'm going to go search around for those answers as I'm sure they've been discussed, I just knew you were a wealth of info and could probably save my eyes from these tiny phone letters~
Thx man, I appreciate all your input!
 

Newb

Bought an X
View attachment 14321 View attachment 14322
So.. The saga continued after leaving the shop for the 2nd time. I didn't notice anything but improvement after the front strut mounts were replaced. I drove it home and parked it for a week. On the way home from the 2nd time driving it I got off the hwy and went into a severe left/right front & back sway. I came to a stop and tried pulling to the side but heard a huge clank and the truck slamming down.

All 6 lugnuts were gone and the tire had laid over wedging into the wheel well, the truck was now resting on it. DAMNIT! I just worked 13hrs and am exhausted standing in traffic.

Long story longer, I managed to find a block to jack it up enuff to get it back on. I was able to find 5 lugnuts that were scattered around but they wouldn't thread on. I ended up taking a nut off the other 3 wheels and limped it home.

Back at the shop for the 3rd time and was told the alignment shop must not have torqued them down although I don't think they'd have messed with the rear... The shop bought me a new 'used' rim that matched, replaced 6 studs and 12 longer lugnuts. They went back over everything and retorqued everything they had worked on and assured me it was right..

While waiting the day it took to get the rim, I was given an Outback with a brand new motor and turbo. I hate small cars but this was fun. View attachment 14323
I'm sorta kinda nervous about driving the X.. Not sure what to expect next~
Simmilar thing last week. Forgot to tighten the lugs. Fortunately i noticed an odd noise while backing put of the garrage... Got it fixed w/o damage, but it was a lesson to pay attention and inspect my work. Humble pie. And this after installing a shackle backwards... Glad your rig survived.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Another q for you @TerryD..

I plan to deal with the differentials as far as clean up, change fluids and maybe paint what I can. Would you go with synthetic or conv diif fluid?

With the engine I put a syn blend in when I bought it and have only changed it once with the same, seeing I've only put about 7k on it.
Would you swap to a full synthetic?

I'm going to go search around for those answers as I'm sure they've been discussed, I just knew you were a wealth of info and could probably save my eyes from these tiny phone letters~
Thx man, I appreciate all your input!

I did with mine. At about 150k on the OE fluids I went with Amsoil in the diffs. The t-case got Amsoil IIRC and the transmission and engine both have Valvoline Maxlife in them. I also use a green synthetic grease in my suspension joints that is marine rated since the suspension sees a lot of direct high pressure washing after off-road use.

My new diffs have cheap dino-lube in them right now but the next time I change the oil I plan on swapping them both to Amsoil. I just wanted something inexpensive to flush them and make sure they weren't leaking and needed pulled apart again. I plan on putting on my ARB diff cover then as well. It's coming time, only a couple hundred miles left on this oil change.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
I also use a green synthetic grease in my suspension joints that is marine rated since the suspension sees a lot of direct high pressure washing after off-road use.
Yea, that's probably a smart idea.. I hadn't thought or heard of that but seems good till you get all over everything! You pack it up while you were putting it together or just squeeze it in there?
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Yea, that's probably a smart idea.. I hadn't thought or heard of that but seems good till you get all over everything! You pack it up while you were putting it together or just squeeze it in there?
I use it in a grease gun for suspension joints. I also put it in my leaf spring bushings when I assembled them.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
I'm a big fan of using marine grease in my grease gun. If it can hold up to salt water, it can hold up do damn near anything.
My buddy with the F150 truggy and I started using it when we built his truck and we've both stuck with it for everyday use. It turns gray when it gets wet so you know how it you need to flush or not when you grease your ball joints or u-joints.

It works great for wheel bearings as well. It's the only thing I use, even on my bang sticks.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
How did you wire it up? That's something I've wanted to do from day 1.
It's got several hot wires that are connected and tied to an accessory power from under dash, it's got a constant power also that I think is for a home link. Thermometer is run thru firewall to the front fender area away from radiator and headlight.
 

Brunnie

Bumpers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Colorado Springs
Need it. Where to buy?
Why the "Parts Store" of course. ;)

OK... for those that have never done this "mod" here is where you get it------ U Pull it Yard (@Prime you want to hit either Littleton U Pull or either of the U-Pull-&-Pay yards in Denver area)
You are looking for a Saturn Vue. You need the mirror and associated connector (cut about 12 inches back from the connector) and you need the temp sensor and connector from behind the grill, it should be mounted close to the center. Total cost so far should be about $10. You will also need either a 10, 15, or 20 size torx (I can't remember exactly which size) to get the mirror off the mount on the windshield. Once you have those things, shoot me a PM/Conversation and I can get you the instructions on how I wired mine and what you need to know.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
20200625_063328.jpg 20200625_063306.jpg 20200625_055727.jpg I jumped in the truck yesterday and found my mirror hanging. Looks like the arm that fits onto the mount on the windshield broke off. I can scrape off the glue that was used to repair it in the past. It looks like the whole arm will need to be replaced as it's one piece.

Gotta go to sleep but later I'm gonna crack the case open and see if it can be replaced.. maybe look online and see.. I was thinking it's a Gentex but not sure of the markings on it. I'll have to research it further.
 
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