In the up holder on the door.
My little 1st gen doors don't have cupholders...
In the up holder on the door.
You CAN. But they suck. 5100s don't have the valving to deal with that mess. Mine was hopping when it came out of pot holes. Lifting the front tires. It sucked.
Get the 6100s or Rads or really anything but converted 5100s with over 550lb coils.
Hmm.. I'm trying to wrap my head around how my travel will be affected.. I'm fixing to put mine together and get them on. I went with All Dogs Coop springs equivalent to about 650# they say and will give me the ~2" of lift I was looking for without using a spacer. They advised to set the 5100s to 0.Lifting reduces down travel. The preload accomplishes the lift. So yeah kinda.
You can't increase the lift and not change the control arm, steering and front diff mounting locations and keep the up/down travel #s you had stock. You gain up travel but lose down travel because the range of travel of the joints are still the same.
Stiffer springs carry more load. They also reduce body roll. The factory sway bar and spring rates are designed for best ride and handling. You increase the spring rates and you mess with that balance.
Now. I have been without sway bars running 650lb/in coils and Rads for a couple years carrying a full frame Warn winch in a full Shrockworks bumper. I'm satisfied with how it works but there's a little part of me that wants to drop back to 600lb/in coils and put on a smaller sway bar like from a 2wd 4cyl Fronty just to see what it affects.
Hmm.. I'm trying to wrap my head around how my travel will be affected.. I'm fixing to put mine together and get them on. I went with All Dogs Coop springs equivalent to about 650# they say and will give me the ~2" of lift I was looking for without using a spacer. They advised to set the 5100s to 0.
Would this change the loss in down travel compared to a spacer lift? I've been up too long to visualize this..
Thx for the insight. That's kinda what I thought. I looked into it quite awhile and this is what I decided to get until upgrading it all down the road. I chatted with a CPL guys that used the All Dogs lift springs with the 5100s and they enjoyed it with about the same weight I'll have so we'll see. I'm done second guessing.Lemme try this. It may take a few renditions...
View attachment 13414
The shock sets the travel window for the suspension. Your suspension can not move more than the shock's travel. A spacer lift moves the travel window down.
You have the same travel as when it was stock but you've moved that window down to gain the lift. You "up travel/down travel %" is unchanged from stock (assuming you don't have coil bucket contact but that's for later). If you had 4" down travel, you still have 4" of down travel.
When you lift by using heavier rate springs, longer springs or the preload adjustment on the 5100s or Rads or whatever, you are keeping the travel window the same as without the spacer and changing your "up travel/down travel %" within that window.
Let's say (because I don't have a stock X or access to the actual measurements) you have a shock that has a total stroke of 8". At OE ride height you have a 50/50% of up/ down travel. 4" up and 4" down.
You add a x" lift top spacer to that shock to lift the vehicle. You have not changed the weight of the vehicle or the spring rate. So you get x" of lift by lowering the entire travel of the shock but you maintain your 50/50 split in up/ down travel.
Now. Let's say you pull that spacer and instead you use the 5100's adjustable spring seat to get x" lift. Now what you've done is gained x" of lift by subtracting x" from your down travel amount and adding it to the up travel amount. You are still operating in the same hypothetical 8" of travel, but you are in a different location in that travel window. (4" + x") up and (4" - x") down. Adding a heavier rate spring to lift or a longer spring will have the same effect as moving the spring seat.
ufck yeah it does. Way new.
@Prime will have to verify but I think it will only let you capitalize the first letters of each word or something like that.I am having issues capitalizing letters in the thread title for my build thread. How do I resolve this?
True story@Prime will have to verify but I think it will only let you capitalize the first letters of each word or something like that.
I guess that inoculates the site against the dreaded SCREAMING CAPS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! phenomena.@Prime will have to verify but I think it will only let you capitalize the first letters of each word or something like that.
Anyone torqued wheel spacers on the front wheels without someone else pressing the brakes? /how?
Length of 2x4 between brake pedal and seat, slide seat forward to depress pedal. Or put it in 4wd.
Yeah, when I did mine I took a piece of pipe and set it against the spacer in between the studs, let the hub turn until the pipe was then braced against the ground.Anyone torqued wheel spacers on the front wheels without someone else pressing the brakes? /how?
Snorkel heads are fine in the rain. The water hits the back wall of the head and runs out of the drain grooves. The problem is snow. Because of how snow moves, it goes all the way to the airbox. My old YJ had a snorkel. First snorked vehicle I'd ever owned. Stalled on me in a bad snowstorm because the neck of the snorkel filled with ice.Time for my Dumb question ;; It seem's to me that having a snorkel facing forward would catch a lot of water when it rain's ? Do the head's pivot around to help stop that or is there some other way that stop's water entry ?? I ask because I HAD a Buick GS 350 back in high school with the functional hood scoop/vent's and when it rained at say med type rain shower the engine would be stuttering, at a serious down pour I would pull over and wait it out !!
You'd have to unbolt the UCA to get that much droop. Otherwise you'd be limited by the ball joints.
I find the concept dubious at best and scary as hell at worst.
You'd have to unbolt the UCA to get that much droop. Otherwise you'd be limited by the ball joints.
I find the concept dubious at best and scary as hell at worst.
Haha well I promise if I end up doing it and don't have any teeth afterwards I'll make it my avatar
I've read through a few threads on one of the tacoma forums where people have been able to remove a coil spring from the front coilovers by leaving it attached, jacking up the LCA, unbolting the nut on the shock shaft and then lowering the LCA down until all of the pressure is released on the coil spring, removing the lower coilover bolt, and the removing the whole assembly.
I'm trying to think through some suspension stuff and need a little outside help.
A few years ago PRG Greg put together a chart on TNX of the travel numbers most of the coilover options available for the X. He list 5.8" travel for the Bilstein 5100 on an otherwise stock truck but the actual length difference in the collapsed/extended 5100 is 4.71" at the coilover.
So I'm thinking the 5.8" of travel he listed is what it actually translates to at the wheel meaning the wheel can travel up/down 2.9" in either direction from its neutral position?
I remember reading Greg's thread over there, have you seen this other one though? Some good info re: shock and wheel travel numbers.
https://www.thenewx.org/threads/strut-length-and-travel-comparison.59917/
Greg's post is probably the most comprehensive of its type.I'm trying to think through some suspension stuff and need a little outside help.
A few years ago PRG Greg put together a chart on TNX of the travel numbers most of the coilover options available for the X. He list 5.8" travel for the Bilstein 5100 on an otherwise stock truck but the actual length difference in the collapsed/extended 5100 is 4.71" at the coilover.
So I'm thinking the 5.8" of travel he listed is what it actually translates to at the wheel meaning the wheel can travel up/down 2.9" in either direction from its neutral position?
The answer to your first question is yes the numbers translate to wheel travel.
Sorta like Nisstec says T-swapped can get 12" of travel, which it can't, 10.5" is T-swapped travel and that is without the shock in the mix at all. Ball joint bind to ball joint bind. Period.
Think about it like this. The wheel is outboard of the shock, if you draw a triangle with the outside line being wheel travel, then draw a line a little farther in on the same side, it will be shorter than the wheel travel line..... that's your shock travel.
Greg's post is probably the most comprehensive of its type.
What exactly are you asking though?
I've got 30k miles on Cooper Discoverer AT3s. I've been really happy with them. We do a lot of family travel and on the east coast it's a fair mix of terrain.have choices an AT or a MT not my dd but I hate the noise,, more rock and dirt where I live thoughts?
Does wheel offset come into play at all by extending that outer point even further?
have choices an AT or a MT not my dd but I hate the noise,, more rock and dirt where I live thoughts?
No it doesn't Because wheel offset doesn't extend the same line of the triangle. That would be extending the bottom flat line of the triangle.
If you are serious about noise and rolling resistance, go with M&S/4 season tires. I never have a problem on loose rock on steep surfaces, old logging roads or skidder trails, vegetation growth permitting.have choices an AT or a MT not my dd but I hate the noise,, more rock and dirt where I live thoughts?
My. Life.MT's are a bit harsh for DD... ask me how I know.