Backing Plate -- Parking Brakes

westslope

Wheeling
I am in the middle of removing and cleaning the parking brake components. I noticed a few rust-generated holes in the backing plate, especially on the left hand, driver side backing or back plate.

IMG_4188_1.jpg

Where can I find inexpensive replacements? Rockauto.com does not appear to carry them.

Nissanpartsdeal.com has them listed at US$104.16 each.


In the meantime, I am thinking of using duct tape to block the holes. Anybody got a better idea?
 

westslope

Wheeling
The yard crushed them and that's about the going rate I've found them for.

Thanks. I won't look for cheaper ones. NissanPartsDeal.com will crucify me on border handling and shipping but the local dealer is probably even more expensive.

How did the yard crush them? Stacked in a junk yard? Or was it the long grass on your lawn? Or is that nickname for a favourite off-road trail?
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Junk yard the X was at I bought the diffs from. Them pull the wheels so they don't get stolen and just set it on the axles. Crushed both backing plates...
 

westslope

Wheeling
So I am about to place an order with NissanPartsDeal.com and thought I would share with you the bill, especially the shipping costs.

NissanPartsDeal.com order PCV Backing Plate February 2020_1.jpg


C$107 in shipping costs come to almost US$81. C$121 translates into ~US$91.

Oh well. None of the options are better.

And then the total bill which comes with taxes and duties (but not broken out):

NissanPartsDeal.com order PCV Backing Plate February 2020 FULL ORDER_1.jpg


The total bill comes to roughly US$388.

Cry me a river! Maybe I will check with the local Nissan dealership on Monday before pulling the plug.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Yeah. I would have wire wheeled it and plug welded the holes. Then paint.

Before spending $400.

FYI. The backing plates for the Titan axle are $15.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Just ordered mine. $296 for the two plates and some seals for the two diffs. Still coming in cheaper than regearing and adding a locker to my C200k....
 

westslope

Wheeling
Yeah. I would have wire wheeled it and plug welded the holes. Then paint.

Before spending $400.

FYI. The backing plates for the Titan axle are $15.

To use backing plates for the Titan axle, I would have to do a swap, correct?

The last time I welded something was probably in Grade 7 shop class. Do not currently own a welding torch/unit. Should I get one? Can I justify it? I might be able to borrow a welding unit from a buddy in town..... Decisions, decisions, ......
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Yes. You'd need the entire Titan axle. I was just pointing out that parts for the Xterra 226 are disproportionately expensive compared to the Titan 226.
 

29erClan

Bought an X
Location
Meh
Do not currently own a welding torch/unit. Should I get one? Can I justify it? I might be able to borrow a welding unit from a buddy in town..... Decisions, decisions, ......
The <$200 inverter welders like harbor freight sell would be fine for hobby use like that. Flux core so you don't need to buy gas. Anything thinner than 1mm would be a challenge with minimum 30Amp output but is still doable without tig if you have enough patience. Just borrowing a friend's rig would be far cheaper even if you gave him a case of his favorite beer. Mostly depends on if you want to get into welding as a hobby I guess.

@TerryD, would you be willing to mail me your damaged plates?
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
The <$200 inverter welders like harbor freight sell would be fine for hobby use like that. Flux core so you don't need to buy gas. Anything thinner than 1mm would be a challenge with minimum 30Amp output but is still doable without tig if you have enough patience. Just borrowing a friend's rig would be far cheaper even if you gave him a case of his favorite beer. Mostly depends on if you want to get into welding as a hobby I guess.

@TerryD, would you be willing to mail me your damaged plates?
Sure. I don't have a use for them and have no interest in trying to straighten them myself. Should be able to get them in a flat rate box.
 

westslope

Wheeling
follow up.

I decided against getting a welding kit and ordered from Nissanpartsdeal.com because the regional Nissan dealership was a day late getting the estimate to me. The dealership (1.5 hours drive away) was actually less expensive.

The order included two rear back plates and torque members along with a PCV valve and the PCV valve blow-by hose. Nissanpartsdeal.com charged me C$513.78; the dealership would have charged an estimated C$464.48.

The Nissanpartsdeal.com package was delivered by Fedex (the Fedex delivery man now knows where we live!) and it came loose in a large cardboard box. One of the rear back plates + torque member was slightly bent and scratched. Not bad enough to send back but annoying all the same.

That was the last time I order anything from Nissanpartsdeal.com.

Photos follow. The first one shows the dent. The second one shows the paint that was scratched off one of them during delivery and the third one shows the empty box with all the packing paper it came in.



IMG_4292.JPG IMG_4290_1.jpg



IMG_4295_1.jpg
 

westslope

Wheeling
Questions.

I was about to remove and replace the old back plates and torque members and noticed that the 2006 FSM recommends that the 4 nuts holding the Axle shaft bearing cage should be replaced every time they are removed.

I also noticed that the ABS sensor rotor sits in the Axle shaft bearing cage. (Better late than never!)

The rear axle seals are leaking and in the near future I do want to remove the axles, get a shop to press off the old axle bearings, press on new axle bearings and then re-install with new axle seals.

The FSM calls for a number of parts to be replaced in addition to the Axle shaft bearing cage : ABS sensor rotor, Axle oil seal and the Bearing ring retainer.

=> Should I wait until I remove the rear axles before replacing the back plates/torque members?

I would rather have to avoid replacing parts twice. Or can I replace the backing plates without replacing any other additional parts?


RAX-19 from the 2006 FSM attached:


RAX-19 2006 FSM.jpg
 

westslope

Wheeling
Don't replace the abs rotor unless it's damaged. I reused the nuts when I replaced my bearings. No issue.
Thanks Jay.

So, when it comes time, do replace the Bearing ring retainer in addition to the Axle oil seal?

If I understand correctly, in order to switch the out the backing plate, the axle must be pulled. If that is the case, I will wait until I pull the axle and have new bearings pressed on.

-Erik
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
If you need bearings you replace the entire assembly. There is a race that gets stuck in the end of the axle tube. You pull that, cut off the old bearing retainer, cage, & inner race (I used an angle grinder and then a dremel when that got too much). Then you can take the seal off. Install a new seal, press on the new bearing and retainer. Then the axle is ready for reinstall.
 

29erClan

Bought an X
Location
Meh
In case anybody is interested:
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/f...4c105a118b13e228c4/e/db779881edabd2f0c94ebdc8

I didn't put much detail into the rotor shield, it's 1mm steel and just has to clear the rotor. It isn't in the bolt stack with the main 4.5mm plate and the smaller 1.5mm parking shoe plate.

I included the section view so you can see how welding/repairing the rotor shield isn't all that close to the main plate the caliper bolts to. Still might warp the parking shoe plate if you go nuts with heat.
driver side.jpg
section view.jpg
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
In case anybody is interested:
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/f...4c105a118b13e228c4/e/db779881edabd2f0c94ebdc8

I didn't put much detail into the rotor shield, it's 1mm steel and just has to clear the rotor. It isn't in the bolt stack with the main 4.5mm plate and the smaller 1.5mm parking shoe plate.

I included the section view so you can see how welding/repairing the rotor shield isn't all that close to the main plate the caliper bolts to. Still might warp the parking shoe plate if you go nuts with heat.
View attachment 13392
View attachment 13393

There was a little part of me that wanted to just slice off the shield and let the rotors run open the way we did D44s and D30s in college. I don't know if I'm older and wiser or just too cautious....
 

29erClan

Bought an X
Location
Meh
Terry, don't lose any sleep over it. The parking shoe plates are crushed / folded so tight I doubt I can fix them. The massive caliper plates are in fine shape though.

For a dedicated tail rig, aka "we don't need no stinking parking brake", they would hold the calipers fine. But couldn't get a road sticker here without a working parking brake.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Terry, don't lose any sleep over it. The parking shoe plates are crushed / folded so tight I doubt I can fix them. The massive caliper plates are in fine shape though.

For a dedicated tail rig, aka "we don't need no stinking parking brake", they would hold the calipers fine. But couldn't get a road sticker here without a working parking brake.
Same here and I'd rather have the brake my self. That's why I just popped the $$ to get new ones. I guess that yard doesn't sell many axles because they seemed surprised anyone would want it. Even more so when I asked about the front diff.
 
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