bigskypylot 's new bigskyX build thread

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
giphy.gif
 

bigskypylot

Bought an X
IMG_02451.jpg

Sorry for the lack of posts, things have been a bit slow but should start picking up soon. Got these bad boys from CJD and some boots to cover the heim joints to keep road grime off 'em.
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Get some Rust Cure Formula 3000 to spray the heims before you install the boots. Oil spraying is the only thing that's going to keep them from seizing and corroding.
 

bigskypylot

Bought an X
Get some Rust Cure Formula 3000 to spray the heims before you install the boots. Oil spraying is the only thing that's going to keep them from seizing and corroding.
from Mike D (CJD) himself

You can definitely spray them. It's not going to hurt. The inner balls are stainless and the outer of the heim has a coating in them. So nothing is raw. But like I said, spatting them will not hurt.
 

bigskypylot

Bought an X
Get some Rust Cure Formula 3000 to spray the heims before you install the boots. Oil spraying is the only thing that's going to keep them from seizing and corroding.

Mike said to use TriFlow (which I use on my coilovers already) so that'll work just fine :)
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Good, we get 6-7months of snow and the salt that goes on the roads would make you cry but my truck has zero rust because I oil spray it every year. The two best are Formula 3000 and Krown from extensive testing by the Canadian Army. TriFlow might not be designed to be a long term rust prevention spray. Both Krown and F3000 turn into a dusty/sticky film once they dry that wicks moisture away from the metal and they are specifically designed for this. A lot of sprays once they dry essentially stop working. All that to say if you use it on the coilovers and it's working fine then it's all good, but don't assume you can spray it and forget it. Even with Krown and F3000 you have to re-apply it at least every two years, but better every year.
 

bigskypylot

Bought an X
i spray this everytime I wash the X https://www.triflowlubricants.com/

Tri-Flow® superior lubricant is the superior, light viscosity lube that allows for deep penetration into hard to reach moving parts. The drip bottle application, with a convenient straw, allows for deep penetration in hard to reach moving parts. High-grade petroleum oils provide optimum lubrication under extreme temperatures (-60 to 475°F) and humidity. Formulated solvents soften and remove dirt and contaminants, while special additives displace moisture and prevent rust and corrosion.

also this gets done every year

https://www.fluid-film.com/automotive-applications/
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Fluid film from the spray can is ok, I've seen people use it all battery terminals and alternators. However, you linked me their automotive spray so I don't know about that product and can't say either way. The best here (according to the military testing) is called Corrosion Free but it's hard to find a place that will spray your vehicle, a close second is Krown in terms of effectiveness and dealers are everywhere around here so it's convenient. Formula 3000 is better IMO when you want to buy your own spray can/tubs. Fluid Film was not tested in the study. Here is the military doc with all the specs they were testing: https://shufti.files.wordpress.com/2010/05/p526285.pdf

The main thing is you're putting something on them!
 

bigskypylot

Bought an X
Fluid film from the spray can is ok, I've seen people use it all battery terminals and alternators. However, you linked me their automotive spray so I don't know about that product and can't say either way. The best here (according to the military testing) is called Corrosion Free but it's hard to find a place that will spray your vehicle, a close second is Krown in terms of effectiveness and dealers are everywhere around here so it's convenient. Formula 3000 is better IMO when you want to buy your own spray can/tubs. Fluid Film was not tested in the study. Here is the military doc with all the specs they were testing: https://shufti.files.wordpress.com/2010/05/p526285.pdf

The main thing is you're putting something on them!

indeed
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Since you are going to be rocking all that extra power, you might want to do one more upgrade. The Titan brake booster and master cylinder bolts in. You can get low mile boosters for like $50 and a new master is approx. $130 but will have to do your own brake lines, or alternatively FatBob's or Nisstec sell the package for about $450.. It's not an expensive mod, but it adds a lot more braking force to the calipers to help with stopping. Also I highly recommend Hawk LTS brake pads. Those pads made a huge difference offroad on steep grades, and bite hard when you get on the brakes.
 

bigskypylot

Bought an X
Since you are going to be rocking all that extra power, you might want to do one more upgrade. The Titan brake booster and master cylinder bolts in. You can get low mile boosters for like $50 and a new master is approx. $130 but will have to do your own brake lines, or alternatively FatBob's or Nisstec sell the package for about $450.. It's not an expensive mod, but it adds a lot more braking force to the calipers to help with stopping. Also I highly recommend Hawk LTS brake pads. Those pads made a huge difference offroad on steep grades, and bite hard when you get on the brakes.

Already done :)
 

bigskypylot

Bought an X
Since you are going to be rocking all that extra power, you might want to do one more upgrade. The Titan brake booster and master cylinder bolts in. You can get low mile boosters for like $50 and a new master is approx. $130 but will have to do your own brake lines, or alternatively FatBob's or Nisstec sell the package for about $450.. It's not an expensive mod, but it adds a lot more braking force to the calipers to help with stopping. Also I highly recommend Hawk LTS brake pads. Those pads made a huge difference offroad on steep grades, and bite hard when you get on the brakes.

I had Hawk LTS prior to the swap and trying the Akebono Ceramic pads this time around.
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
I had Hawk LTS prior to the swap and trying the Akebono Ceramic pads this time around.

I put Akebonos on a few months ago after I kept getting wheel shake from the Rayebstos EHT's I had at the time leaving deposits on the rotors. They've been great, tons of stopping power and after a few thousand miles they cleaned all the Raysbestos deposits off.
 

bigskypylot

Bought an X
So, we ran in to an issue with the rear shocks being too short. I had picked up the Bilstein 5165 with Remote res at 24" I was sent a pair that was 22 3/8" i need 25.5" lol

So, on that note, I'll be selling these NEW 5165s at a discounted rate in the next month or so, tthey were $399 for the pair.

I ended up ordering a pair of Radflo 2.5 smooth body remote reservoir with compression adjusters . They are exactly 25.5" so I wont lose any travel. They just started building them today. Hoping two weeks out. Wiring is being worked on currently. Also, we had to order the UpRev MAF GT since the stock MAF would be overwhelmed more than likely. Hopefully we get it to the tuner in the next few weeks. Brennan is working his tail off and doing a great job. Stay tuned for more updates
 
Last edited:
Top