PhullD's Build Thread

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
If he was aired down and in a situation where it was pulling the bottom of the tire outward I could see the top of the tire leaning in and contacting.

It doesn't appear to be causing any damage, so I wouldn't worry about it myself. But you could probably ease the ball joint outboard a little and they can chase it with the cam bolts.

It's not the top of the tire that touches, it's the portion bulging out closer to the wheel itself, I can feel some abrasion marks. Probably harmless, but it is more the way it feels when it happens that I dislike if anything. Will for sure set it different when I get home.

Oil change done, starting the 1790 mile journey home tomorrow. The wife decided to head back a couple days sooner (misses the dog lol) and I can't say I blame her. Definitely will be back to Moab and/or Ouray!
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
So my cb radio (Midland 75-822) crapped out on me. We determined it is the adapter piece that slides onto the unit that has the antenna and 12V connector in one. The exact part is Midland 18-821 DC adapter. Midland doesn't sell that piece anymore and it is a unicorn it seems from all the google/ebay/amazon searching I've done. The fuse was good. I really don't want to buy a whole new radio, any ideas?
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Re-greased all my bushings with silicon grease all quiet now! Here are some vid that were taken during my trip.

Top of the World:
Fins and Things:
Backroad into Arches:

Also finished all my rust maintenance and going in for an oil spray Tuesday. Managed to get a replacement piece for my CB.
 

Brunnie

Bumpers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Colorado Springs
Thanks for all the fun. I took your advice and ditched the spring on the antenna, so much better now.
Glad to hear you could get the piece for your CB.

BTW.... that was Tower Arch
 
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PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Dude! Give me a shout when you start laying out details.
For sure!

Planning on ordering some 2.5 shocks for the rear next week or the week after (depends if they are open). I went back and forth about the 2.0 emulsions or these and I just can't do the 2.0's after having the 5125's back there. Automatic guys probably don't notice as much, but I find the truck is always a rockin when shifting/braking and I've only had the 5125's a short time. Combine that with mixed reviews/opinion on the 5125's or the 2.0 emulsions and I decided on just moving passed both. I'd also rather have the 2.5's and kill that "what if" or "should have" feeling. If I'm still disappointed at least I'll know that's the best it is gonna get and I have to live with it. That's my logic and I'm sticking to it lol!
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
Automatic guys probably don't notice as much, but I find the truck is always a rockin when shifting/braking and I've only had the 5125's a short time.

Yeah that's a thing for sure, it got better when I added a helper leaf to the pack but sometimes I think the ride is like a rally truck because of that. To other people it probably looks like it has some ridiculous high horsepower engine or something.
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Yeah that's a thing for sure, it got better when I added a helper leaf to the pack but sometimes I think the ride is like a rally truck because of that. To other people it probably looks like it has some ridiculous high horsepower engine or something.

That's it exactly, but the give is in the shocks cause these leafs are like 800lbs over stock IIRC. The video above shows it all, keeps squatting back there.

I called Rugged Rocks to ask about the lift options because there are no drop downs on the website. Steven told me to just order it from Radflo. :S Checked Radflo's site and there were no 2.5 options for Nissan Xterras and I didn't feel like talking with someone to get all the specs down. It's gross outside and I don't want to get sleeve diameters, shock lengths, valving measurements. Anyway ordered off of Nisstec, the long wait begins.
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
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Location
Ottawa, Ontario
So a bit of a crappy day today. I was hearing a rattling sound from under the truck and took it in because I couldn't figure out what it was. Turns out it is the Tom Woods driveshaft. There are two issues: 1. The grease fitting for the inner ball of the double cardan was broken off and there are some broken remnants of some sort of seal, however the ball moves like new. 2. The rattling itself seems to be coming from inside the driveshaft, maybe the inner tube broke or something?? The shop I had install the driveshaft was going to call Tom Woods, I hope they are more helpful/polite than when we ordered the shaft. This has to be a defect, I literally had it put in a year ago and went on one trail other than my trip the weekend before I left so it's not like I punished it. The couple people I did wheel with on here I'm sure will vouch for me when I say I'm not a crazy person on the trails either.
 

Brunnie

Bumpers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Colorado Springs
So a bit of a crappy day today. I was hearing a rattling sound from under the truck and took it in because I couldn't figure out what it was. Turns out it is the Tom Woods driveshaft. There are two issues: 1. The grease fitting for the inner ball of the double cardan was broken off and there are some broken remnants of some sort of seal, however the ball moves like new. 2. The rattling itself seems to be coming from inside the driveshaft, maybe the inner tube broke or something?? The shop I had install the driveshaft was going to call Tom Woods, I hope they are more helpful/polite than when we ordered the shaft. This has to be a defect, I literally had it put in a year ago and went on one trail other than my trip the weekend before I left so it's not like I punished it. The couple people I did wheel with on here I'm sure will vouch for me when I say I'm not a crazy person on the trails either.

Did you put that on just before the fall Ouray/Moab trip?
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Still, what you and I did was a piece of cake, and from what I saw in the other videos, those trails weren't all that bad. Nothing around Ouray is very difficult either.

Sure hope Tom Woods does right by you.

I hope so, I should know more today.

Ah man, that sucks! Good luck man!

Thanks, hope for the best, prepare for the worst lol!
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
I thought when someone was willing to put their name on something it was supposed to be a straight up badass, whatever it may be..
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
I just got off the phone with the shop, they pulled the broken fitting and replaced it, added grease. They went for a decent road test and there is no more rattle. Tom Woods said there is no way the fitting can be broken by the cardan itself, which means either the fitting was bad (cracked) and with the pressure from being greased broke off or it was a 1 in a million rock that somehow got in there while it flexed. Those fittings are cheap metal so seems the likelihood is the former. Regardless, Tom Woods said there might be some wear on the joint, but it is also probably gonna last a long time. I decided to drive it as is and replace it if I need to down the road. Looks like I got lucky this time!

Edit: I should also mention that my dad has a philosophy not to take a vehicle in unless it literally breaks down...don't do this, something is strange or noisy take it in ASAP lol!
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Looking to pick up some new lug nuts, gobble it is such a PITA finding decent lugs. The OEM ones are 1.01" long (sucks to thread them in) and the caps popped off. I replaced them with some black steel ones from Ebay but they are only 3/4" (19mm) key and still short and now rusting. Was looking at the Gorilla Automotive, bulge acorn black (12x1.25). Says they are 1.4" long. I'm hoping to avoid the plastic cap or sleeved kind of lug (the ones that have a nice finish but weak metal sleeved over the body of the lug).

Anyone ever use these?
Anyone have any other go to's for this?
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
Looking to pick up some new lug nuts, gobble it is such a PITA finding decent lugs. The OEM ones are 1.01" long (sucks to thread them in) and the caps popped off. I replaced them with some black steel ones from Ebay but they are only 3/4" (19mm) key and still short and now rusting. Was looking at the Gorilla Automotive, bulge acorn black (12x1.25). Says they are 1.4" long. I'm hoping to avoid the plastic cap or sleeved kind of lug (the ones that have a nice finish but weak metal sleeved over the body of the lug).

Anyone ever use these?
Anyone have any other go to's for this?


I bought 6 from Napa a couple years ago, I can't find the brand anywhere though. The cap part is rounded instead of flat like our OE lug nuts are. They've held up great and have no rust at all even after my beach adventures.
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
I bought 6 from Napa a couple years ago, I can't find the brand anywhere though. The cap part is rounded instead of flat like our OE lug nuts are. They've held up great and have no rust at all even after my beach adventures.

Napa just has the generic Dorman lug nuts, they are 19-21mm long, way too short to work with the OEM p4x wheels.
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
Napa just has the generic Dorman lug nuts, they are 19-21mm long, way too short to work with the OEM p4x wheels.

Maybe they worked for me because they're attaching to the spidertrax spacer. I wish I could find the paperwork for the ones I bought because I remember trying to get the OE length.
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
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Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Maybe they worked for me because they're attaching to the spidertrax spacer. I wish I could find the paperwork for the ones I bought because I remember trying to get the OE length.

Different wheels too, the p4x wheels have deep pits, it's a PITA to thread by hand if the lug is too short especially in the cold.
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
How many turns do you think you get with the impact? Kind of.. sorta.. sounds sketch..
Not sure about General_Tarfun, but mine goes in quite a bit so I'm not concerned about it not having enough threads holding the nut on, it is just a pain getting it going. After it is tightened to spec, the lugs are 1/2" inside the wheel (ie no lug sticking out at all). Also I forgot to mention the key of these ebay lugs I got were 3/4" (19mm) instead of 13/16" so a lot of Nissan techs mucked them up with 21mm sockets thinking it was the same as OEM.
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
How many turns do you think you get with the impact? Kind of.. sorta.. sounds sketch..

Oh it's not that there aren't enough threads to hold it on, the issue is that when the wheel is put on the hub the studs are far back in the cutouts on the wheel. So they thread fine once you get it started it's just a pain to make sure you don't cross thread them.
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
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Location
Ottawa, Ontario
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