Lizardking's Minivan...

lizardking

Bought an X
Location
wilkes-barre, PA
Intro Comments: One trip to Rausch Creek and I was hooked. Running blues/blacks now. The truck not as family friendly as it used to be. It is no longer the main family vehicle. I still till love to drive it everywhere even to it isn't the DD anymore.

Username: Lizardking

Real Name: Keith

Make: Nissan
Year: 2011
Model: Xterra
Trim: Pro4X 6MT
Color: Metalic Green

MODS

Suspension/Drivetrain:
4.56 Gears
M205 w/ gear and ARB locker
Titan LCAs
Nisstec extended brake lines
SB1010 Speed Bleeders
Titan SPC UCA
PRG adjustable shackles
Timbren SES
315/75r16 Mickey Thompson MTZ P3 on stock rims
Bilstein 5100 rear shocks 3-4"
Tundra 5100s front w/ FJ passenger springs set up 1 notch (I can replace m205s CVs without disconnecting the UCA)
OME HD Rear leaf pack with extra alcan parts. AKA bastard pack.

Exterior:
Airflow Snorkel
rocky road outfitters diff guard
Hefty front bumper and radiator skid
Hefty engine skid

Shrocksworks Rock Sliders
Hefty transmission skid
Hefty transfer case skid
Hefty fab gas tank skid

2' NGP firestick antenna
Garvin adventure rack

Calmini rear Tire Carrier
PIAA ion crystal driving lamps
Volant airbox w/o the cut out.
Smittybilt X2O Gen2 10,000 Pound Wireless Waterproof
arb air compressor

Interior:
BullyDog GT Gas Tuner
Weather Tech floor mats
CB
External CB speaker
JVC KW-V840BT head unit

Misc:
adjusted clutch pedal



Removed:
x2o 8000 comp series winch
Harbor Freight wireless winch remote (direct plug to x2o)
RIXN Large ceiling net
Alcans 3" + 300#

Coverking Neosupreme seat covers
285/75r16 General Grabber AT2 on stock rims
Mud flaps
front sway
rear sway
Shrocksworks rad skid
Shrocksworks engine skid
Nissan hood protector
Shrocksworks diff cover
Radflo 0-3" rear shock
Stock leaf packs
Nisstec AAL
255/80r17 KM2s
Lokka Locker
285/75r16 Goodyear MTR on stock rims
PRG Radflo 2.5 coils extended+ 2" spacer
Femco Oil drian
Viair 400P

On order/not installed:

Wishlist:
Maybe some type of shelving

Comments: Not sure what is next. Rock lights? SAS?

Update: I have had a few growing pains along the way. I came from a background where I was waxing my car every other day and it has been difficult to see the truck get beat up. At the same time, I am having much more fun than I ever did with my "fast" cars. The truck no longer has to be a minivan (we leased a real minivan) so I have decided to make her even more off-road worthy and stop sweating the scratches and rust. I still want to maintain her and make her last as long as possible, but I will learn from my mistakes and push on. Hell, who knows if she will even survive... she is going to try to make it through 3 kids learning to drive.

Lessons learned so far:
1. "Go as slow as possible, but as fast as necessary." Still working on that one. The funny thing is that might be a life lesson, not just an off-road lesson.

2. Do not join x forums or follow facebook groups because it will make you spend money.

3. 4 low is your friend when you drive a manual.

4. You will kick yourself for not getting 33s. Nothing wrong with the 32s.... they just are not 33s.

5. Sliders are way cool. They will do their job. They will pay for themselves. They should be mod #1.

6. Clutch cancel can be used for hills but after reading some horror stories about shifting in deep mud I found it is very important to use if your transmission is covered in mud or water.

7. Only use Nissan trans fluid!

8. Magnetic antennas suck.

9. Watch out for the trees! They are sneaky bastards.

10. Check your skid bolts! I lost two and a third was on the way out!

11. Check to make sure your sliders are not rotting your frame...

12. In case you missed it the first time: Do not join x forums or follow facebook groups because it will make you spend money.

13. Re-spool your winch under load. It is embarrassing when you can't pull a Subaru out of a ditch in the snow because the line is slipping.

14. Powdercoat does not like North East winters.

15. LCA mounts do not like rocks. (or LCAs)

16. Replace your rear springs when they are worn. Preferably a few thousand miles before you need it. My helwigs held up ok, but I think they eventually lead to my pinion angle issues. If I had replaced my springs they would have saved me the cost of another drive shaft.

17. Pay attention to your pinion angle. The boot on the drive shaft can only take so much abuse.

18. Stuck CVs are no fun.

19. I loathe rust.

20. I am addicted to wheeling and enjoying a few cold ones with good friends.

21. Dismounting and mounting your own tires is a pain in the rear.

22. What a dumb hobby. I spend lots of money making my truck better offroad. I take it offroad. I beat it to hell and break something. I fix it with something better so that when I take it out again I need to do harder trails to break it even worse. Very dumb. Why the hell do I love it so much??!??

PHOTOS

Maiden Voyage
23283366875_db5c3cacde_b.jpg


As she sits now
7Rksezy.jpg

hLPqeJr.jpg

35282369374_8806c23ee8_b.jpg

28367600625_ab85e2586f_b.jpg

28345230551_8f81704897_b.jpg

30842234902_88bdbecbe3_b.jpg

32212726771_f92d8e9411_b.jpg

32413153730_f39efca175_b.jpg
 
Last edited:

gorillamel

Lockers Installed
Founding Member
Location
Idaho!
Glad you made it over here! It's nice to see someone else piece-mealing their skid plate purchases, haha. After 2 years of shopping, I almost have a full set! :)

And, to reiterate what everyone else has said, that metallic green is such a great color. I'm jealous of all your treed trails out East.
 

Xado89

Skid Plates
Location
Ocala, FL
Nice looking truck man. Great pics! I will add in on the awesome wheels as well.

Sent using highly technical equipment involving satelites and space and nerds.....lots of nerds...
 

lizardking

Bought an X
Location
wilkes-barre, PA
Yup.. Trees are sneaky. More room would be nice. ;-)

eos+001.JPG



I straightened this out a bit and currently have it covered with plasti dip. I am deciding if I am going to bed line or not. The plasti dip is a pain to tape off and doens't look great if you standing next to it but it is not so bad from a distance.
 
Last edited:

bigjim247365

Anime boobs & male genitals? Sign me up!
Supporting Member
Location
Hainesville IL
Yup.. Trees are sneaky. More room would be nice. ;-)

eos+001.JPG



I straightened this out a bit and currently have it covered with plasti dip. I am deciding if I am going to bed line or not. The plasti dip is a pain to tape off and doens't look great if you standing next to it but it is not so bad from a distance.

theres a great story behind every battle scar!
 

lizardking

Bought an X
Location
wilkes-barre, PA
Great day to work on the truck. Spring cleaning!!


I pulled off the sliders again to check on frame rot and it was the same has last year. Mud and grime (and probably salt) worked its way in there and was rubbing on the frame. I didn't get a good picture but it looks the same as last year.


eos+007.JPG



I will probably get them welded if/when I get a body lift and get the body lift version. Until them I am okay pulling them off every year. The sliders needed a coat of paint anyway.




Hefty powder coat??? WTF!?!?!?


iphone+009.JPG

iphone+007.JPG

iphone+012.JPG



Not happy. Not even a year old yet. Lots and lots of bubbled powder coat. Sanded it down put a coat of Rustoleum bed liner on. My 3 year old shrock sliders look new (at least the powder coated part does)
 

drbandkgb

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Bad prep I'm sure in the powder coating guys part.. These should be sand blasted before powder...

I would put a few coats of plasti dip on the frame, where it meets the connection points...
 

Macland

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Hefty has had trouble with powdercoating since their first bumper run. Whether with time at the powder coater, the PC not following directions, or quality like your issue. Unfortunately it stinks having to depend on second parties when building a product.
 

lizardking

Bought an X
Location
wilkes-barre, PA
Bad prep I'm sure in the powder coating guys part.. These should be sand blasted before powder...

I would put a few coats of plasti dip on the frame, where it meets the connection points...

Thanks. I have some amsoil heavy duty metal protector there already. It should be ok. It probably wouldn't be an issue expect all the salt they use on the roads here. Still, it should be better quality... I found out it is a know issue and apparently people get it shipped bare metal and power coat it local... Live and learn .
 

lizardking

Bought an X
Location
wilkes-barre, PA
Updated the first post with new pictures and changes to the build.

Recent additions include:
KM2 full spare
PIAA ion crystal driving lamps
Viair 400P
Coverking Neosupreme seat covers
Milwaukee M18 Cordless impact wrench
Rear Tire Carrier
Replacing OEM length Radflos 600# with Extended length Radflos 650#
Misc trail spare parts and camping gear
 

lizardking

Bought an X
Location
wilkes-barre, PA
Mini review of newly acquired booty:




1) Milwaukee 2652-22 M18 Cordless Impact wrench.
OMFG. Is this just one of those secrets that you just have to learn on your own? Should have picked up an impact wrench a long time ago. I have nothing to compare it to so I couldn't tell you if it is good or bad... but it is awesome just jacking up the truck and zipping off lug nuts! Tire swaps made easy. It made short work of the lower shock mount bolt too.


2) Coverking Neosupreme seat covers.
Magic. Dirt, dog hair and sticky kids come right off. The seat covers look nice too. I should have bought these sooner.


3) PIAA ion crystal driving lamps
Meh. Lights on front of truck light up road... but they look sexy.


4) Viair 400P
Nice! 8 minute air up is much nicer then 30+ minutes (Longer if I actually waited till the tires were really full). I am kicking myself for not getting the 100% duty cycle one but this one is faster.


5) Extended length Radflos 650#
I liked my OEM length Radflos but anything over 2" and the ride was harsh. 2" Turned into 1.5" with bumper and winch. Cranking them up made the ride harsh. The 1/2" spacer (1" lift) helped get me back near 2.5" but the 600# springs with the bumper and winch felt just a tiny bit too soft. So far the 650# feel perfect and they ride at 2.5" of lift (no extra spacer ...yet) all day with no issue. I am looking forward to testing them off road. It was getting close to rebuild time anyway so I am going to sell the old ones. I will say that if anyone is thinking of getting OEM length ones and keeping their stock ucas, these work. You miss out on around 1.5" of travel but they drove great and worked well on the trails.


nikon+006.JPG
 

drbandkgb

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
I need a pair of these bad for our Gen2. We have a blown Bilstien and I have not been happy with spacer lifts at all...



I say it all the time but.. This is the best color on the X T E R R A E V E R
 

lizardking

Bought an X
Location
wilkes-barre, PA
I keep meaning to come here more. I am going to make an extra effort especially since I am heading to WENT this year (fingers crossed). I updated the first post to make it current. Recent mods are 33" MTRs (love), Alcans, longer rear shocks, new wheels and lokka up front. Recent maintenance has been new CVs, Hubs and UCA SPC ball joints.

Some eye candy:
Fw2cMzvtcuvz6cMnlvDCs1Zho7YrwGibbxM0uqRL3ZBh=w1487-h1115-no

OAQDBJfnvgHBCn_SD4eoHwg7srVqlfcgMXw3_viT7Lna=w1487-h1115-no

QWVpmfU-oLu7dX9wI33IGrY31_yzocQ6qO-cKbAMzy-J=w1487-h1115-no

5oMAczevH3aCijTQ6kIcOt46_KdPHx6zVorc1Oec_sQi=w1487-h1115-no
 

lizardking

Bought an X
Location
wilkes-barre, PA
Freshened up the first page. Going to try and spend some time here...


Starting to seriously consider titian swapping especially since my lokka appears to be slipping. Going to have to see what funds allow.

From this weekend NE eXposure
32212726771_405c6d11cd_k.jpg

31955821130_581c904a10_k.jpg

32332452855_a4eaab4fa1_k.jpg
 
Last edited:

Fromfrontier2Xterra

I bought a Taco
Super Moderator
Supporting Member
Location
All over PA
Very glad to hear it! Did the lokka just start slipping this weekend?

Stinks to hear but ironic since the convo we had Fri with Josh about not knowing lifespan of the lokka's yet.

Keep us posted on it as much as it sucks to hear.
 

lizardking

Bought an X
Location
wilkes-barre, PA
Alright, so even though it is effin cold and my garage isn't heated, I started the process of diagnosing this. Dropped the engine skid and emptied the fluid. It had a bit of metal in it and what looked a very small amount of flakes. Very hard to tell what the flakes were from but they were small and few. Nothing like when I shredded my spiders. There were big chunks of metal then. Still not sure what the issue is. On to the CVs next. Hope I don't have to drop the whole diff.


31877944983_5cb3280d19_k.jpg


31847400184_a5d3303b1e_k.jpg
 

Fromfrontier2Xterra

I bought a Taco
Super Moderator
Supporting Member
Location
All over PA
Alright, so even though it is effin cold and my garage isn't heated, I started the process of diagnosing this. Dropped the engine skid and emptied the fluid. It had a bit of metal in it and what looked a very small amount of flakes. Very hard to tell what the flakes were from but they were small and few. Nothing like when I shredded my spiders. There were big chunks of metal then. Still not sure what the issue is. On to the CVs next. Hope I don't have to drop the whole diff.


31877944983_5cb3280d19_k.jpg


31847400184_a5d3303b1e_k.jpg

Man, I hope you don't have to either. Fingers crossed for you.
 

lizardking

Bought an X
Location
wilkes-barre, PA
Those rock auto CVs definitely have me thinking. Too bad the cheapest m205 I can currently find is north of $600 pre-shipping. Plus another $500 to regear it to 3.73 (or $1000 if I go 4.56). Plus a couple hundred more for install. Slippery slope. Doesn't help that I can find r180s for $200.

Last night I was gungho on dropping the whole diff and opening it up just to check it out. This morning I feel like putting on my spare CVs and see if it is still popping.
 

lizardking

Bought an X
Location
wilkes-barre, PA
Something is about to happen.
31975521873_666e5e4409_b.jpg



I am a little worried about binding at full drop but it will be a while before I can test.


32666387781_b470a81303_b.jpg





I don't think I posted about this on here, but my lokka is starting to slip. I changed half shafts in hopes that one of those were going bad but no luck. It is still slipping. Emptying the diff oil showed a bit of excess metal in the fluid but no chunks.


After some more research on aussie/lunchbox lockers, they all start to do this after a while and at some point in the future it will just stop holding altogether. I believe it has some life in it. It just has noticeably started to pop. I also think that the lokka is still a good purchase. It does fix the weakness of the R180 and I think it protects the weaker half shafts by giving the system an easier place for the energy to go. Bottom line is, I still believe if you are staying 33s and stock width (or even extended R180 half shafts) the lokka is still a good choice.


However, since apparently my end goal is 35s, it would just make the lokka issue worse on 410s and R180. ARB 4.10s and the R180 might work but I think you would need to invest in RCVs to keep from snapping axles. It is a sign to start getting parts for 4.56 and M205. Of course, I still have to do things differently because it is my DNA to learn the hard way, so I am staying stock width. At least for a while.
 

Fromfrontier2Xterra

I bought a Taco
Super Moderator
Supporting Member
Location
All over PA
Something is about to happen.
31975521873_666e5e4409_b.jpg



I am a little worried about binding at full drop but it will be a while before I can test.


32666387781_b470a81303_b.jpg





I don't think I posted about this on here, but my lokka is starting to slip. I changed half shafts in hopes that one of those were going bad but no luck. It is still slipping. Emptying the diff oil showed a bit of excess metal in the fluid but no chunks.


After some more research on aussie/lunchbox lockers, they all start to do this after a while and at some point in the future it will just stop holding altogether. I believe it has some life in it. It just has noticeably started to pop. I also think that the lokka is still a good purchase. It does fix the weakness of the R180 and I think it protects the weaker half shafts by giving the system an easier place for the energy to go. Bottom line is, I still believe if you are staying 33s and stock width (or even extended R180 half shafts) the lokka is still a good choice.


However, since apparently my end goal is 35s, it would just make the lokka issue worse on 410s and R180. ARB 4.10s and the R180 might work but I think you would need to invest in RCVs to keep from snapping axles. It is a sign to start getting parts for 4.56 and M205. Of course, I still have to do things differently because it is my DNA to learn the hard way, so I am staying stock width. At least for a while.

Good to know on the lokka. Thanks for overview and write up. Nice pick up on the shafts. As always, can't wait to see where you go with it.
 

lizardking

Bought an X
Location
wilkes-barre, PA
Ok. I am really going to try and post here! Honestly! I know I have said it before. In my defense, I really haven't been posting anywhere for a while.

After a going back and forth on how to resolve my slipping lokka issues and decide how far I am really going with this crazy hobby, I pulled the trigger on 4.56s and a m205 arb locker. Still working on the logistics of getting the right m205 where and when I want it but it is in motion. My current plan is to stay stock width and use the v8 pathy axles I picked up. I might also run my 33s for a while before I bump up. I want to see how cool it is to have super low gears on the hard trails. It will help me decide if I go 34s or full on 35s (or 33.8 vs 34.6 depending who is measuring).

Plus, I have to see what my cash pool looks like after I finish dicking around with all these parts.


Lokka diag for anyone interested.:

I took advantage of our great spring weather and started to pull her apart for spring cleaning and to diagnose my clicking r180.


I hate salt.
33776621652_17a919e655_k.jpg


r180 out. Don't mind the oil. I had a bad seal after swapping the CVs for testing.
33092047374_bae5d37f1d_k.jpg


I was hoping to find something obvious but everything seems fine. I am a little low on the tolerance side .145" but that is what it read when it went in.
33777995572_415c99b3a5_k.jpg


Found a little rubbing but I am pretty sure that isn't the noise.
33096687064_41a36ca639_k.jpg


I went digging further to try and find some clue. Nothing. I guess maybe the tiniest of rounding on the teeth but they look pretty good. Center pin looks fine. Spring and pins good.
33784360962_35bf29b280_k.jpg





I put it back together and got the tolerance to .155 exactly with amazon shims. Next time out it was still making noise. My diagnosis? They just eventually start slipping after enough use. It still works. It probably helps protect my axles but it's currently like a very strong LSD. Which, isn't horrible. It just doesn't keep it locked 100% of the time.
 

Fromfrontier2Xterra

I bought a Taco
Super Moderator
Supporting Member
Location
All over PA
What was rubbing on the coilover? Axle shaft? Guarantee you'll be on 35's within a year!

Ha. I bet on this as well.

Nice write up and diagnosis on the Lokka. Glad to see a review on them after some hard use. Would you still recommend for those looking for a cheap alternative to an ARB?
 

lizardking

Bought an X
Location
wilkes-barre, PA
What was rubbing on the coilover? Axle shaft? Guarantee you'll be on 35's within a year!

The axles. Specifically, the clamps holding on the boot.

And probably on 35s. I am very curious how it drives on 33s though because if I have a complaint with the manual, it's that the bigger the rocks get the more I have to feather the clutch. It would be nice to let it just crawl. Depending on how that goes, 34s may be a serious contender. Plus I already have 17" rims so 305/70R17 would be on the list.

Ha. I bet on this as well.

Nice write up and diagnosis on the Lokka. Glad to see a review on them after some hard use. Would you still recommend for those looking for a cheap alternative to an ARB?

It's definitely a solid alternative to the arb. Particularly if you busted the R180 spiders or are a 6 speed and a m205 swap isn't really an affordable option due to the regearing.
 

lizardking

Bought an X
Location
wilkes-barre, PA
Well, I am a convert. The titan swap is great. It is very expensive for the 6-speed guys but if you are eventually going to go 34s or 35s and need the m205 anyway, it's a better choice than staying stock width. The extra 2" of down travel helps everywhere and the 1" extra under the engine skid is nice as well.
35977853001_9caf586bcf_h.jpg


The gears are great but it didn't stop the need for clutch work. It isn't an issue. It is just that it doesn't make we want to stay 33s when 35s are so close. I did stall a bit less overall.

And my transfer case is the noise maker. Apparently, the 6-speed and auto case have different part numbers and I am not sure why. I found a local junkyard that has one from a 2012 6 speed X for a reasonable price so it shouldn't matter anyway. Once I get the old transfer case out, I hope to crack it open and take a look. If it seems simple enough, I may replace the chain and keep it for a spare.
 

lizardking

Bought an X
Location
wilkes-barre, PA
Updated first page.


Installing a used t-case from a 2012 manual in the near future. Hopefully, after this, I can take advantage of my front locker again!

35996352352_09903a67e4_h.jpg
 
Last edited:
Top