How to R34 Radiator!

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
I had tossed the idea of installing an R34 radiator into my 2001 Xterra. After doing some research I had found that the R32/R34 radiator with passenger side inlet and outlet. Both inlet and outlet are 34mm

I found this one on ebay for $135
http://www.ebay.com/itm/180995934236?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
After receiving the radiator I did some measuring and found that the bottom pins of the radiator were exactly the same as OEM. I then found that the upper pins were more narrow than the OEM so at this point I knew that I would have to make a custom upper mount plate. (more on this later)


Here you can see the thickness of the radiator's upper tank


After removing the OEM radiator I just simply dropped the new R34 radiator into place while making sure the lower pins drop into the bushings down low.


The hoses SHOULD all line up without much effort. (my upper hose was modified to fit my water temp gauge sensor)


The next thing was to make an upper mounting plate. Here is where things get a little vague as this was done for my application and I'm not sure how things vary between vehicles.

I started off with threading the upper pins to 3/8" NF and threading as far down as I possibly could.


I started off with a 28"x6" sheet of Aluminum diamond plate however you can make it from whatever type or material you would like. I then cut the plate to 26" on the rear and left the front of the plate to 28" making a slightly trapezoid shaped plate. I then found where I needed to drill the holes for the pins, I also notched out the center of the plate for the filler neck.



I then made my own rubber washers to fit on the top and bottom of the plate, these measure 1.25" with a 3/8" center hole. Also in this picture you can see where I notched the plate to fit the upper radiator hose inlet.


At this point I started to clean things up, I cleaned the edges up and rounded them out, I drilled the hole for the hood holder rod clip, and smoothed out all the burred up edges.


I opted not to contour the plate to the upper radiator crossmember, however it would be an easy thing to do.


And what is the benefit of doing the R34 radiator over the SC drop in you ask? Well after 30 minutes of idling in 75* my temps were hovering between 168*-173*


After 20-30minutes of highway driving in 85* ambient temps, followed by 5 minutes of stationary idling the highest temp I had seen was 183*

I hope you enjoy this writeup and hope that you chose this option to replace your OEM single row!


Also, I have an AT so an external transmission cooler will be need to be added in, I chose 2x Torqflo 12"x5.5"




 

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Last edited:

Jbat

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Utah
How do the temps you are seeing now relate to the temps you saw with your old radiator?
 

Jbat

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Utah
That's awesome man. I like the all aluminum structure too, might have to give this a shot
 

DC xterra

Wheeling
Location
CT
I thought about this as well, I run a more coolant based mix during the winter to cope with the -32* temps we get here in NE Wyoming. I just have to let my rig warm up before I try driving anywhere

i think thats you're best bet, you can also block the grill wit something when you drive so there isn't to much cold air hitting the rad
 

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
When my radiator comes time for replacment I might do the same

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Might as well, I figure the aluminum structure of this radiator is alot stronger than having the plastic tanks on top and bottom. the aluminum will stay strong while the plastic will get brittle.
 

mantree

Wheeling
Location
Fort Collins
Might as well, I figure the aluminum structure of this radiator is alot stronger than having the plastic tanks on top and bottom. the aluminum will stay strong while the plastic will get brittle.
My thought exactly, the last owner had the radiator replaced 3 years ago so I have some time and I think I would just relocate the straps that hold the radiator with some flat bar welded in and drilled and tapped for suport. I also plan on someday doing a diesle swap wih a 2.7 turbo diesle from the narvada

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
Quick little update on this. Over this past weekend I drove from my home in NE Wyoming to Denver and back in less than 24 hours. The trip is 5.5 hours one way. On the way there it was raining and so this wasnt a very accurate way to see what temps I was getting, however I never got above 165*. On the way home it was clear and about 75* I ran about 80-85mph the whole time and never went above 170*.
 

bottobro

I'm a pretty girl!
Supporting Member
Location
Long Island NY
I think my tstat is shot or my truck is just jeffed up. I run 200 at highway speeds and goes up from there depending on hills and such. This will be an upgrade in the near future

Sent from Nov. 5 1955
 

Nd4SpdSe

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Quebec, QC
Cptpackrat said:
After removing the OEM radiator I just simply dropped the new R34 radiator into place while making sure the lower pins drop into the bushings down low.
13925079_1271486972870769_3509403003647847959_n.jpg

You mean to say that the rad just dropped right into the original lower rad support mounts and bushings?
 

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
You mean to say that the rad just dropped right into the original lower rad support mounts and bushings?

Yessir, just need to make an upper mount of some kind

Keep in mind guys that I have my trans cooler separated from the radiator which Im sure helps. I still dont have a fan shroud figured out either, but im sure it would help also.

JEFFED UP! I like it
 
Last edited:

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
Whoa! I may have to re-upgrade! Another Q; Is it wider then the stock rad? I know with my dual batteries it's tight with the overflow reservoir already. There seems to be another style with a larger upper reservoir...does that one have fitament issues?
Something like this for a cheap and easy electric fan upgrade?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/52MM-For-NI...ash=item27cc505893:g:PtsAAOxywZ1SMWvC&vxp=mtr

Its about the same width as stock, a little thicker. It is shorter by about 2" which makes it sit flush with the upper radiator support if you look in my install photos. That shroud SHOULD work, but dont quote me on it, there is plenty of room between the clutch fan and the back of the rad.
 

Nd4SpdSe

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Quebec, QC
I take it the R33/R34 is good cause it's shorter, but the R34-only is onyl for the R34 because it's just that tad taller.
 

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
I take it the R33/R34 is good cause it's shorter, but the R34-only is onyl for the R34 because it's just that tad taller.

The R33/R34 Rad is the same size, however the factory Xterra Rad is larger than the R34 in overall size. This doesnt always mean its better. the SC is only a 2-row. The R34 may be smaller overall dimensions but it is a 3-row. I hope this makes sense
 

Nd4SpdSe

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Quebec, QC
I thought you were saying that the one I found for the R33/R43 with the fans was a different size from the one you got.
 

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
I've researched it as well and haven't really found a definitive answer. I'd like to add that gauge sometime though.

I think what I may do is try to find a dual barbed T-fitting with 1/8" NPT that I can put on the transmission cooler return line to get a reading of how well the temps are managing. Easy enough to do, hard to find the right fitting
 
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