DIY Body lift parts

drbandkgb

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Who wants to pay 200 or more for a body lift? If you want to run 33" tires and not cut your Xterra up your going to need a 2" BL
You can piece together a Bodlylift (BL) for 70.00$ range.

You will need 10 - 2" tall 3" wide lift blocks.
Screenshot2011-10-27at44723PM.png


Zoneoffroad.com (ZON3296) or Ebay is the best place I have found on these..
Range 2.75 to 3.00 So your looking at 30.00 Plus shipping right there.

Next you need the bolts to add to the kit.
Since all the bolts holding your Xterra on the frame right now will be useless your going to need new Grade 8 bolts
Allensfasteners.com is one of the best places I have seen for these..(Those #s at the front are the parts numbers from Allen) You may look local 1st vut most Big Box stores do not carry some of the sizes.

70329 10mm-1.25 10.9 HEX BOLT 2 $3.95 $7.90
LENGTH: 10mm-1.25 X 160 10.9 HEX CS
-------------------------------------------------------
70303 10mm-1.25 HEX BOLT 8.8 2 $1.24 $2.48
LENGTH: 10mm-1.25 X 80 8.8 HEX CS (part thread) plain
-------------------------------------------------------
70333 12mm-1.25 10.9 HEX BOLT 2 $5.75 $11.50
LENGTH: 12mm-1.25 X 180 10.9 HEX CS
-------------------------------------------------------
0027 7/16-14 GRADE 8 HEX BOLT 6 $1.00 $6.00
LENGTH: 7/16-14 X 6 GR8 HEX CS
-------------------------------------------------------
20287 AMERICAN GRADE 8 SAE FLAT WASHER 12 $0.11 $1.32
SIZE: 7/16 GR8 SAE FW (.925 O.D.)
-------------------------------------------------------
00006 GRADE C LOCK NUT (STOVER) 6 $0.17 $1.02
SIZE: 7/16-14 GRC NUT (STOVER) (11/16 hex size)
-------------------------------------------------------
First number in each bolt listing should be a part number on allensfasteners.com
thats 30.22 (Prices 5/11)

*Some people will use Grade 10.9 on every bolt*.. Up to you


4 nylon/rubber washers for those who want to keep their driveshaft safety loop
Now you will still need to raise the front bumper 2"
Many people will buy a 2x2 box metal and drill it to match the holes from the bumper.

UPDATE

Here is the numbers for a 1" BL as done by a member here.

I just installed my 1" BL today. Below is my hardware list and everything was the right size:


Hardware used:
(2) 10mm-1.25 x 55 8.8 HEX CS
(2) 10mm-1.25 x 140 10.9 HEX CS
(2) 12mm-1.25 x 14010.9 HEX CS
(6) 7/16 -14 x 5 GR8 HEX CS
(6) 7/16-14 GRC NUT
(16) 7/16 GR8 SAE FW (.925 OD) flat washer
 
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RATTFINK

XN OG Admin.
Founding Member
Location
Conroe, TX
Same here. I advise going through ZoneOffroad for the pucks. The turnaround time with the ones from eBay are lengthy. That and they sell the ZoneOffroad pucks anyway lol

Posted from the depths of Hell.
 

Hugetanker

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Founding Member
Location
Nesquehoning, PA
Same here. I advise going through ZoneOffroad for the pucks. The turnaround time with the ones from eBay are lengthy. That and they sell the ZoneOffroad pucks anyway lol

Posted from the depths of Hell.

^^X2 with the zoneoffroad, my pucks were at my door within days.
 

xearth

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
Dayton, OH
Does anyone have recommendations or tips for completing the body lift? I've got a DIY thread somewhere but since I haven't done it yet I was just curious. I do have plenty of PB :)
 

drbandkgb

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Tips.. take your time.. CX has a good write up on it.. Im hoping to make our own soon...
 

drbandkgb

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
YEs but we all have done a few of them :)

And yet some one forgot to pull something too..
 

NismoFire

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Smyrna, TN
Just depends on the money...that's why I'm working 12hrs tomorrow! I'll be getting a significant raise in January, so I'm looking at shocks and tires right now to go along with it. I tried to look up the pucks on ZO's website, but I can't find the individual part listings (I may just be blind).



ETA: Disregard, I found them...

http://zoneoffroad.com/product-acc?ki=402&gr=
 
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AbuseTheElderly

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Founding Member
Location
Pearl, MS
Thanks for posting this up, I just got done ordering all the parts necessary. I won't be installing them until January though, cause we are driving to California from Mississippi on Dec 22nd and driving back Jan 1st, I don't want to make that drive with the extra wind resistance. That and I won't be getting the new tires until I get back anyway. The total after shipping and all is right at $80, I cannot wait until I can install it.
 

AbuseTheElderly

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Founding Member
Location
Pearl, MS
Thanks for the tip Doodle, I disconnected the black plastic clip that holds the hoses on the engine.

I do have an issue though, after the body lift I have noticed a vibration/rattle coming from the passenger side floorboard. I can feel it whether the truck is sitting (running) or driving, but I feel it the most when taking off from a stop or backing up with the steering wheel cut right. I think it may be a catalytic converter heat shield, but since I have done the lift it has been rainy and I can't get underneath the X. I'm just wondering if anyone knows what it is before I tear into it.
 

SnickerDoodle

Life's Better Seeing Pink
Founding Member
Location
Winlsow Twsp, NJ
could be a heat shield or even the bumper. my lower half of the bumper does nothing but rattle. I fix it, its good for a bit then the damn rattle comes back. it drives me freaking insane.
 

AbuseTheElderly

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Founding Member
Location
Pearl, MS
Thanks for the tips, I was able to find out what it was. I found that the heat shield that is attached to the body was raised and caused it to make contact with the passenger side catalytic converter. I just bent the shield slightly away from it and the sound/vibration is gone.
 

xterror

Bought an X
Founding Member
Location
Arvada, CO
I hear the 3" BL is much more involved. Is that true?
I'm trying to figure out what I should go with... 2 or 3
 

xterror

Bought an X
Founding Member
Location
Arvada, CO
At least 33's. I know the 2" would be sufficient since I already have a 2.5SL.
But If I could stuff something bigger in there then I would. Just seeing how much work its gonna be for the 3" and what tires to look at. I wanna upgrade to 16 rims too
 

NMTerras

Suspension Lift
Location
New Mexico
OK, has anyone tried just a 1" BL? I have a buddy who has done them on other vehicles, and he just cuts the 2" pucks in half. So my question is, if I do that, does it change the specs on the bolts at all?
 

NMTerras

Suspension Lift
Location
New Mexico
Another question, since I decided to go ahead and order the bolts as suggested anyway, anyone know where I can find the 180mm length 12mm-1.25 10.9 HEX BOLTS? Nothing longer than 140mm at Allen...and it appears from my interweb searches I am not the first person to encounter this issue...anyone???
 

Hugetanker

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Founding Member
Location
Nesquehoning, PA
I got them from a place in Cali. Pretty expensive though. I'll try and find the name of the place give me a few mins.
 

drbandkgb

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
OK, has anyone tried just a 1" BL? I have a buddy who has done them on other vehicles, and he just cuts the 2" pucks in half. So my question is, if I do that, does it change the specs on the bolts at all?
Why though?

The 2"s is very easy to do and Ive had 2 of them with zero issue.
 

NMTerras

Suspension Lift
Location
New Mexico
Why though?

The 2"s is very easy to do and Ive had 2 of them with zero issue.

My effing garage is why. I've squeezed every last inch out of the door height, too. Also, with the 1", you don't have to relocate anything, or so I am told. We shall see.

edit: also, I like to be contrary :D
 

drbandkgb

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
You will still have a gap in the bumpers.. and thats the only thing you would need to relocate..


And I get wanting to be different.. but yes Id say your going to need to find there bolts a inch shorter
 

NMTerras

Suspension Lift
Location
New Mexico
You will still have a gap in the bumpers.. and thats the only thing you would need to relocate..


And I get wanting to be different.. but yes Id say your going to need to find there bolts a inch shorter

New tube bumpers being built in conjunction with the lift! Dom tubing arrives Thursday! Heheheheh....
 

Hugetanker

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Founding Member
Location
Nesquehoning, PA
Bumper relocation and radiator shenanigans, some trimming to accommodate 4w lo shifter. Nothing serious. 1" avoids much of it.

Bumper relocation is cake. For the front you just space it up with 2" square steel stock and drill holes for the rear. All you have to do for the radiator is take the lower half of the shroud off (2 mins). And some don't even have to trim for 4 Lo, but even if you do, it still isn't that much work.
 

simps19

Test Drive
Location
Cambridge, Ont
Another question, since I decided to go ahead and order the bolts as suggested anyway, anyone know where I can find the 180mm length 12mm-1.25 10.9 HEX BOLTS? Nothing longer than 140mm at Allen...and it appears from my interweb searches I am not the first person to encounter this issue...anyone???

Does this 180mm bolt use a nut that is welded in the truck?? Can this bolt be changed to imperial to get the correct length??

Simps
 

Hugetanker

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Founding Member
Location
Nesquehoning, PA
The 4 metric bolts that you need to order use bolts that are welded to the body of the truck. As far as being able to change them...I'm not sure it's worth it. It's easier to just order the size that's there. You would probably spend more time/aggrevation/money swapping them.
 

BlOwNXT

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Sweetwater, TN
So I don’t understand why you need 12 bolts but only 6 lock nuts? I must be missing something :wut:

EDIT: Unless that is what you are talking about with the nuts welded to the body.
 
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