Revolvers

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
Well, the tests performed used ramps and truck scales to plot the down force at the drooped tires.

The plots showed what you would logically expect to see: The packs would be progressively harder to bow as you bow them to get droop....and, if they don't have to bow as much, for the same amount of droop, there is less resistance for that amount of droop.

The longer the shackle, the further down the tire could drop before the pack's bowing pulled back up at it...and, for any given amount of droop, the pack didn't have to bow as much for a longer shackle.

The Revolvers simply acted as longer shackles, and, therefore, allowed more droop before the pack had to bow.


The coil sprung rigs allowed droop to continue without pulling back up on the dropping side...as there was no connection between the coil and the frame/axle to pull on it.


When a coil sprung rig was drooped enough to relax the coil, there was still down force....as the higher side leveraged the dropped side down. The down force smoothly transitioned during the droop, because the coil's down force contribution was negligible compared to the leverage contribution.

This also dispelled/disproved another myth about coil springs. One myth was that once the coil was no longer in contact/pushing down the drooped side axle, the tire would have no down force. In fact, the down force was similar with or without the coil, as the leverage action was the primary force.

This is the same for a live axle with leaves...its the leverage, not the pack or shackles, that is pushing the tire down when drooped.

The same myth was applied to revolvers as to coils, due to the same lack of understanding of how they worked...and repeated ad nauseam by those who heard it and believed it, spreading the misunderstandings.


When the tests involved teeter boards and ramps, they also showed what would be logically expected. Gravity pulls things down, and, a rig's center of gravity is what is acted upon.

So, if you have a board, and, put a toy truck on it, and tilt it, the truck rolls down the board.

If you chock the front tires, and repeat the experiment, so the truck can't roll down the board, you will reach a point at which the truck can somersault over its front tires.

This angle will be the angle that puts the truck's COG FORWARD of the front tires. It will not flip until the COG is passed that point.

If you changed the truck's tires to taller ones, it would raise its COG, and, decrease the angle needed to get that higher COG ahead of the tires.

If the toy truck had a suspension, for the same height, etc, the COG would not be different, and the angle required to flip it would not change.


If the truck had a coil suspension, tilting it enough can make it lean forward, as the front end compresses. This tends to lift the rear. If the COG point is more to the rear, this would raise the COG point. If the COG point is more to the front, this would lower the COG point. Typically, tilting a rig to go down a steep hill puts more weight to the front.

This unweights the rear. Coil sprung rigs have the sprung weight supported on the coil. If the rig is not about to flip, gravity makes the sprung weight rest on SOMETHING.

As the coil sprung rig is progressively tilted down, at some point, the COG is forward enough to flip it...and, the coil sprung rig will go over.

So will any other rig...including rigs with leaf sprung suspensions. Essentially, gravity exerts the same forces, and doesn't care if you have coils, leaves or t-bars, etc.


Where the confusion seemed to be based was illustrated by the way any flexy suspension tended to allow more body motion. For a analogous scenario, consider being off camber/side hilling.

If your rig is stiffly sprung, so it rides with little lean in turns, when side hilled, your roof will be more parallel to the slope, because your D and P side suspensions are at ~ equal travel.

If your rig is softly sprung, the down hill side might be very compressed...leaning you to the down hill side more.


The UPhill side will tend to be ~ ride height in travel if its still supporting the weight of the rig it normally does.

If the COG tilts out past the line of the downhill tires, over you go.


So, on a steep slope, its more about the suspension's stiffness or softness...and if its letting your downhill side compress enough to be a problem.

The UPHILL side is not "Holding you down"....whatever weight the rig is supporting on that side is being supported....not anchored. Its the DOWNHILL side that pulls you over, when the COG passes the down hill tires. (As then there's no weight FOR the uphill side TO support).


So, a coil sprung jeep for example is not more likely to do an end over or side roll than a leaf sprung jeep, for the same COG, etc. A leaf pack doesn't magically hold down the jeep.

A more softly sprung rig is more likely to suffer from weight transfer related to body lean, regardless of if it has coils or leaves.


The tests found that the conditions associated with soft suspensions were exacerbated by taller lifts in the above scenarios.

Some jeeps for example used soft/off road anti-roll bars (Curie, etc) to help with off camber scenarios for example, to help reduce the off camber lean.


Much of the confusion essentially was due to blaming the revolvers for soft suspension and tall lift/high COG characteristics...as its not unusual for many changes to be installed in conjunction with each other.

Back to back runs with revolvers and long shackles for example did not show any increased forward weight transfer/"unloading" on steep down hills. The revolvers typically resulted in a lower rear ride height, which improved, rather than worsened, front lean.


Coil sprung rigs also showed no "unloading"....they worked the same as leaf sprung rigs as far as the suspension, merely supporting the rig's weight, not holding the rig down.

Once people understand that the suspension supports weight, and doesn't hold the weight down onto itself....the rest falls into place.


The "coils not touching the bucket means the tire is not pushed onto the ground" crowd is loud and numerous...and, are under the same misunderstanding as the "Revolvers are just for show, because the tires are not pushed down" crowd, which is equally loud, numerous, and wrong.

:D
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
^I agree with everything you just said.

Now what happens in a dynamic situation... This is not civil engineering here **** moves.


LOL

Excellent question. I will summarize the answer: Momentum.

:D

If nothing moved, you would not need a suspension. Pillars/blocks, etc, would suffice.

So you take the masses (Sprung weight) supported by the suspension, and the suspension (Unsprung weight) and move them along. The damping by shocks, etc, helps to control these motions...for a coil sprung rig, the cycles are related to the compression and springing back of the coils, for leaves, its the bowing and unbowing of the pack, the swinging in/out of the shackles, etc.

For an ideal suspension, the tires go up/down with the terrain, and the rig stays level.


The faster the rig is going, the more momentum the tires are subject to....and they can be launched upwards by a bump, or bounce up upon a landing, etc.

The shocks damp those motions. When there is weight on the rig that needs to be supported, the suspension supports it. IE: When the suspension is not supporting the frame, it is relaxed.

Generally, the shackles are swinging in to allow downtravel and back on compression cycles. For the revolvers, the same thing is happening, with the shackle also folding when no load is on it and the axle is rising, etc. IE: The pack supports weight, or, doesn't. In motion, it will be cycling between support and relaxation.

For a leaf sprung rig, the pack itself exerts forces on ride motions, as it cycles, as once flexed, it wants to spring back to its relaxed state. If the pack is flexed up a lot on compression for example, it now has stored kinetic energy, which then wants to push the axle down harder on the way down to its relaxed state. If it over shoots the relaxed state due to the momentum of the moving parts, it can then be flexed down too far, and, then, want to flex back UP to its relaxed state, etc.

This can result in pogo-ing, etc. Again, shocks are to damp that potential oscillation. As revolvers can also fold when not needed for support (The axle/tire rising with the terrain means the suspension is not supporting weight on that corner yet...), the pack doesn't need to flex up as much on the compression cycle.

So, if there's no weight to support, starting with the frame staying level while the tire dropped with the terrain....the shackle can unfold to let the axle drop more easily with the terrain.

When the tire rises again, it folds back up as it rises, again allowing less pack bowing to do it.

A stiffer suspension that resists the rising axle, causes the rise to also lift the frame at that corner...which is the opposite of the desired level rig/moving tire scenario.

As revolvers folding/unfolding is a version of the longer shackle's swinging in/out, both help to reduce the upwards forces on the frame when in motion.


So, in motion, as the suspension cycles, each corner will have cycling loads on it. The rig will be able to maintain a more stable attitude in motion, if the tires can go up/down w/o exerting these forces on the frame...so, the more easily this can happen, the better.
 

robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
TJTJ from a clubX post:

The left side of the chart is the weight (LB) on the freight scale (the tire’s weight available for traction)


The bottom of the chart is the amount the truck was lifted with the fork lift, in inches, to UN-Weight the drooped tire on the scale.

The 0 inch (No droop) numbers were the same, the scale begins at 1”.

Both graphs show approx 1,300 lbs on the rear tire with all tires on the ground.

Both graphs show the rear tire "unweighting" in a fairly linear fashion as the front tire is lifted.

The standard lift shackle is down to 0 lbs at a front wheel height of approx 19".

At this same height the Revolver setup still had over 400 lbs of weight on the same tire.

The revolver shackle reaches 0 lbs at a front wheel height of approx 24"….5 more inches of droop….WITH weight on the tire.


So the traction of the regular lift shackle and the Revolver shackle is similar for the first 8” of droop…

At about 8”, the regular lift shackles’ droop is starting to be resisted by the leaf pack arch, and, the amount of down force it can apply to the tire is less linear, and the tire starts to unweight more sharply.

The Revolver Shackles’ droop stays fairly linear – applying down force to the tire long after the regular lift shackle’s down force at the tire was zero.


At ~16” of droop, the regular shackle’s down force had dropped to ~ 400 lb, but the Revolver Shackles’ downforce was still ~ 600 lb, about a third more than a regular shackle could provide.

At NO point did the Revolver Shackle provide LESS downforce than the regular lift shackle, it provided about the same until the regular shackle reached the leaf pack’s arch range….then more and more than the regular shackle could.


As soon as the regular lift shackle started fighting the leaf pack, the leaf pack started to allow less and less weight on the regular shackles’ drooping tire.


From that point on, the Revolver Shackle provided MORE AND MORE of an improvement in downforce on the drooped tire.


This improvement not only provided more down force as the tire was drooped, it also allowed that traction to be available for more inches of droop, allowing an additional 5” of USEFUL droop over the regular shackles.

Of course, after the added 5” of droop, the leaf pack arch ALSO pulls back the tire for the Revolver Shackle the same way…as its still just a shackle.

RevolverGraph.jpg



My own observations:

For you to hit a bump and "unload" the shackles...you have to hit a bump large enough and fast enough create a force that can push the entire truck upward so that the springs are no longer supporting any weight (IE: frame/truck is free floating in no mans land while the shackle is partially unfolded). The only difference compared to a rigid shackle is that the frame can't "free-float"/"unload"...because the weight of the axle is rigidly attached. An axle weighs what...a couple hundred pounds with the tires? Really negligible when compared to the armor we put on, cargo, a heavy passenger, etc. The point is that the rigid shackle does NOT hold the frame and truck down to the axle...gravity does. You don't NEED a rigid shackle to keep the rear end set. Gravity does that due to the weight of the cab, frame, bumper, cargo, etc.

The equivalent point where a revolver axle starts to unload on a bump would basically be the point where your standard shackle leaf springs are supporting no weight and your rear tires are leaving the ground. If you aren't worried about your tires leaving the ground on big bumps, there is no reason to expect the rear end of your truck to float away with revolvers.

Think about it this way:

Picture your leaf spring with no weight on it (IE: free state...you are doing a PML shackle and raise the rear end enough to reach that magic point that no weight is on the shackle hardware). That leaf spring pack is arched quite a bit. Now lower the weight of the truck on to the leaf spring. The spring pack flattens quite a bit from the weight (static equilibrium). The VAST amount of vibration and oscillation you will get on bumps (slow bumps, at speed bumps, on road, etc)...is centered around that static equilibrium position. Very rarely (unless you are trying to) do you get to the point that your rear tires leave the ground because the bump sent you all the way back up to the free state position. That is true with revolvers or rigid shackles.

At first glance ... it makes sense to think..."oh they can unfold...the rear end isn't being held down it will bounce everywhere!" When you look into what is actually happening...a rigid shackle doesn't hold the truck down...it just connects to the spring to hold it up. Gravity and the weight of the truck keep the revolvers folded until you need them to flex.

When they do flex...the frame is no longer being supported on that spring...but you DO have the weight of the axle dragging it down, and the cantilever action of the stuffed side pushing it down for traction. Yes, no frame weight is being supported on that side...which means with regular rigid shackles, you would be three wheeling (IE: in my avatar by my name).
 
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TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ

Yup, read it, and, its the same tired (wrong) BS myth crap that's confusing people.

Physics is the answer on this one, and people endlessly repeating wrong info doesn't change that.

:D


The vast majority of the misunderstandings boil down to not understanding the physics...especially WHY there IS MORE down force with a drooped tire with revolvers, not NONE.

A huge number of people fail to observe that the stuffed side's leaf/axle point is the fulcrum, and the drooped tire is the side that's PUSHED DOWN.


Go find a see saw in a park, etc...Have a friend PICK UP one side, and you pull the OTHER side UP too.

Feel the force exerted from the OTHER SIDE?

THAT'S the same force the drooped tire gets from the stuffed side (Your friend) pushing your side down by picking his side up.


As soon as the concept is internalized, and applied to the suspension, it will all be clear....but, too many have been brainwashed by the chanting misinformed....and seem unwilling or unable to understand how the see saw works.

:D


If they start to get how the see saw works, after that, you'd need to start understanding how the more a pack has to bow to allow droop, the more the force to MAKE IT BOW means less force left to push the tire harder onto the ground.


Its like a beach ball in a swimming pool that you need to hold on the bottom of the pool...you can't push the ball down onto the bottom as hard, because some of your strength is spent just trying to submerge it/keep it from bobbing back UP....

...just like the bowed leaf spring is trying to pull the axle back up as you're drooping it.

:D


The chart above shows that the inches of droop (Inches, Along the bottom) causes the revolver and std lift shackle to be pretty close in down force for the first 8" or so....then the regular shackle pack is bowing, and, fighting the droop, and the down force starts to plummet (Pounds, Along the left side).

Eventually, as the revolver is just a shackle, it too finally runs out of stretch/swing, and, the pack bows...

...but the reg lift shackle had zero lb at 19", and the revolver still had down force.


Its data, not opinion.
 
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robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
[video=youtube;tBFO3ZcgPec]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBFO3ZcgPec[/video]

[video=youtube;9wRs9gF5lAU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wRs9gF5lAU[/video]


This is a great video that shows how they work in a side by side comparison to a fixed shackle of the same length.

You most definitely have traction on the drooped tire with the revolver. Note that once the revolver shackle starts to unfold, there is no weight (frame/body/gear, etc) being supported by that side of the spring (the truck is not PUSHING down on the shackle, which allows it to unfold). The weight is completely held on the opposite side. This point corresponds to that static equilibrium point with a solid shackle which is getting where the leaf pack is fighting the axle droop and your tire would be coming off the ground shortly. Once the revolver is fully unfolded...it acts a rigid shackle as far as the leaf pack now is resisting flex and the tire is off the ground. Everything during that flex range of the revolver is basically after the solid shackle tire is off the ground already.
 

Intender

Wheeling
Location
Lewisville NC
well, if you are open or lsd for that matter since they really suck on an xterra, the more time you can spend with both rear tires on the ground the more traction you will have, because as soon as a tire starts to lift, the tire in the air is going to spin and the tire on the ground isnt going to spin at all. before I had my revolvers I tried running around Uwharrie in 2wd and they have berms/bumps that they build all over the trail system there to control speed, and help with water runoff. some of them are really off camber or just ridiculously tall and even with a very worn lsd i would occasionally lift a tire off the ground and couldnt get over them without hitting it with speed, or locking in 4wd. with the revolvers I can drive around most of the park in 2wd until I hit an obstacle because I dont lift tires anymore. and since we are ifs its really easy to end up in a situation where you are 3 wheeling or sometimes teetering on two wheels and you end up with just 2 tires in the air spinning even if your in 4wd. Again the longer you can keep both rear tires on the ground the easier to keep traction and avoid those situation.
 

Tex Terra

Bought an X
Maybe I am totally missing the point to revolver shackles but in the above vid you can clearly see the tire start to spin....meaning it has lost all traction. I was thinking about getting myself some revolvers but the more I think about it the less sense it makes to me. Already have both front and rear arb lockers ....don't think I need revolvers. Next X will be SAS'd for sure.
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
Maybe I am totally missing the point to revolver shackles but in the above vid you can clearly see the tire start to spin....meaning it has lost all traction. I was thinking about getting myself some revolvers but the more I think about it the less sense it makes to me. Already have both front and rear arb lockers ....don't think I need revolvers. Next X will be SAS'd for sure.

LOL

You missed the point, it didn't lose traction until the pack flex resistance picked it up...same as for a regular shackle, except the revolver version went a LOT farther before losing traction. (ALL leaf sprung rigs lose traction when the pack bow resistance picks up the tire)

If you looked at the first vid, the tire spun SOONER with the reg lift shackle.


If you have IFS, you are COUNTING on the rear tires to stay on the ground, so the CAN push you along...as a front open diff is so likely to let a tire slip/taking that diff out of the equation.

If you have a rear locker, it means at least ONE tire can push you, even if the other is hanging in mid air. With an OPEN rear, if one tire is in mid air, the one on the ground might decide to just sit and watch instead of pushing you, etc.

So, the Revolvers (Or coil springs, etc...) that allow more rear travel, help keep the rear tires on the ground, so BOTH tires are more likely to be able to push you along, etc.


Again, all the revolvers are doing is giving MORE traction by making the drooped tire have more down force on it after a given amount of droop, than a regular lift shackle can.


A coil sprung live axle takes it one step further, because there's no pack to pull the tire up at the end of the droop range.
 

robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
Maybe I am totally missing the point to revolver shackles but in the above vid you can clearly see the tire start to spin....meaning it has lost all traction. I was thinking about getting myself some revolvers but the more I think about it the less sense it makes to me. Already have both front and rear arb lockers ....don't think I need revolvers. Next X will be SAS'd for sure.

The point where the revolver shackle FIRST starts to unfold is ~ the same point where the solid shackle lost all traction. ALL travel after the revolver first starts to unfold is EXTRA travel that you wouldn't have been able to get otherwise. If you had "no traction" once the revolver shackle began to unfold...it would never unfold on that ramp because you would not be able to move forward in RWD with an open differential. You have traction up until the point where it is FULLY open.

Once the revolver fully unfolds, it acts just like a normal rigid shackle (of a much longer length), in the sense that the shackle is now pulling upwards on the axle, which is when you are fighting the leaf pack and your tire comes off the ground. The revolver shackles allow your rear tires to stay on the ground longer before ending up on three wheels.
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
I beg to differ. He totally gets it. A locker will do more for you, and a SAS is better too.

"LOL"

You missed the point too, which was discussing that the tire lost traction....on both the regular and revolver, except the regular shackle version lost traction earlier.

So, HE missed that BOTH slipped, eventually...but that the revolver gave traction for more of the travel....

..and YOU missed that the relevant part was about the regular vs revolver shackle....not SAS or locker vs revolver.


So, sure, a locker is great...and so is a SAS, I don't think anyone is saying a revolver does anything except increase available traction by helping the rear tires stay on the ground, etc.

A SAS helps do the same for the front tires, a locker helps if a tire slips so the other one can keep pushing you, etc...super useful.


ALL are good, but, there's no reason to say, essentially, "sliders are better than gas tank skids, so if you have one you don't need the other".

All of these mods can be done independently.


IE: You can have revolvers and a SAS with F/R lockers, you can combine a BL and SL, and so forth.


Its hard to DO a SAS for the cost of revolvers though, so, if I could only do ONE, and they were free, sure, SAS sounds great....but, they are not free, and, I can do both if I could afford it.

Same with lockers...they are in a different plane than shackles. You can't really compare them as if they are two choices that are mutually exclusive.
 

Intender

Wheeling
Location
Lewisville NC
Both of those things are better. But if you are on a limited budget lockers and sas are probably beyond your means. While we are at it I would love to have a nice 5 link setup in the rear instead of revolvers and leafs.
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
Both of those things are better. But if you are on a limited budget lockers and sas are probably beyond your means. While we are at it I would love to have a nice 5 link setup in the rear instead of revolvers and leafs.

Exactly. A coil sprung axle is better than a leaf sprung axle, and all the revolvers do is make the leaf sprung version get closer to the coil sprung version than a regular shackle can.

Changing shackles is not in the same league as installing lockers or replacing drivetrains and suspension systems....is faster, easier, and cheaper...but, sure, with enough time and money, lockers and coils are the way to go.

:D
 

NMTerras

Suspension Lift
Location
New Mexico
You missed the point too, which was discussing that the tire lost traction....on both the regular and revolver, except the regular shackle version lost traction earlier.

So, HE missed that BOTH slipped, eventually...but that the revolver gave traction for more of the travel....

..and YOU missed that the relevant part was about the regular vs revolver shackle....not SAS or locker vs revolver.


So, sure, a locker is great...and so is a SAS, I don't think anyone is saying a revolver does anything except increase available traction by helping the rear tires stay on the ground, etc.

A SAS helps do the same for the front tires, a locker helps if a tire slips so the other one can keep pushing you, etc...super useful.


ALL are good, but, there's no reason to say, essentially, "sliders are better than gas tank skids, so if you have one you don't need the other".

All of these mods can be done independently.


IE: You can have revolvers and a SAS with F/R lockers, you can combine a BL and SL, and so forth.


Its hard to DO a SAS for the cost of revolvers though, so, if I could only do ONE, and they were free, sure, SAS sounds great....but, they are not free, and, I can do both if I could afford it.

Same with lockers...they are in a different plane than shackles. You can't really compare them as if they are two choices that are mutually exclusive.

I didn't miss jack, TJ. Sometimes I just like to wind you up and watch what comes out of your keyboard hole...all in good fun, of course. You have valuable insight and your willingness to share it is appreciated. But you can't act like you're the smartest kid in class all the time and not catch some flak for it...;-)
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
I didn't miss jack, TJ. Sometimes I just like to wind you up and watch what comes out of your keyboard hole...all in good fun, of course. You have valuable insight and your willingness to share it is appreciated. But you can't act like you're the smartest kid in class all the time and not catch some flak for it...;-)


I'm not saying anything about ME....Just trying to correct misconceptions about modifications...and this particular one is so deeply entrenched in the dogma it needs more attention to drag it into the light.

So, OK, smack me about....sigh.

:)
 
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