Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
I am new to these forums and I was wondering what upgrades I should do first to my X. I have a 2002 XE. I was looking into getting a RLC front bumper soon. What are your opinions on these bumpers?
Upgrades
- Thread starter Bdcottom
- Start date
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Welcome to XN! You've made the right decision for your furthering of Xterra knowledge.
So you're completely stock at the moment?
So many things can be done.
First question, what do you want to do with the truck? Looks? Off Road performance? Both? Which is more important? That will kind of guide where you go with mods.
Also, we like pictures. So let's see what you're starting with!
So you're completely stock at the moment?
So many things can be done.
First question, what do you want to do with the truck? Looks? Off Road performance? Both? Which is more important? That will kind of guide where you go with mods.
Also, we like pictures. So let's see what you're starting with!
Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
Thanks! I am going for a practical around town car but a good off-road car. But most of all I want to build a bad*** off-road rig!
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Before you decide what you need to do to it, take it out and see what she can do. Once you know that, you'll know where you need to make improvements, be it tires, lifts, armor, etc.
I do think you need to lose the brush guard; they tend to cause more damage in an accident than if you didn't have one. Also, if you do want to wheel in more rocky areas, you'll want to lose the steps as they are very thin and will damage your doors if you come off a rock wrong. Even to the point you can't open it.
I do think you need to lose the brush guard; they tend to cause more damage in an accident than if you didn't have one. Also, if you do want to wheel in more rocky areas, you'll want to lose the steps as they are very thin and will damage your doors if you come off a rock wrong. Even to the point you can't open it.
Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
I have had it out before. Could've used a little more flex in places but it handled good. I might have to get new locking hubs because one of mine is kinda seized. As for the running boards I was planning on taking them off this weekend and possibly the rear sway bar too.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
The rear sway bar is a definite scrap metal item. Whole heartedly agree with Deeb regarding the steps and brush guard. Or as I like to call them, damage multipliers.
The reduced backspacing on your aftermarket wheels is going to make larger tires a lot of fun. Fun with a Sawzall that is. If you're going to wheel it, I suppose you'll want bigger tires. Best way to do that is a 2" body lift. With those wheels, you'll still have to do some cutting, but it'll be greatly reduced by the body lift.
The reduced backspacing on your aftermarket wheels is going to make larger tires a lot of fun. Fun with a Sawzall that is. If you're going to wheel it, I suppose you'll want bigger tires. Best way to do that is a 2" body lift. With those wheels, you'll still have to do some cutting, but it'll be greatly reduced by the body lift.
Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
Bigger tires and wheels are on the list. Body lift too. I am wanting to go with 33s eventually once I get everything set up for them.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
You can run 33s w/ a body lift and PML. I did it on stock 15x7 Nissan wheels and only had some minor cutting that needed to happen.
That being said, I believe the right way to go is full on 3" suspension lift and 2 body lift.
That being said, I believe the right way to go is full on 3" suspension lift and 2 body lift.
Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
Ok. I do love how they sit when they're lifted like that. Now I just need a bigger paycheck lol
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
The body lift can be done for dirt cheap. About $80-90 if you are willing to buy all the pieces yourself. 3" rear lift (AAL and shackles) figure about $200. Front lift is a little but more. You need upper control arms ($250-350 depending on vendor), if you are going to do a bumper, winch, etc, I strongly recommend new torsion bars ($180), plus at that point you have to address the steering. Start with a $75 idler arm brace, and eventually you'll end up in full custom steering or one of the $1000+ kits from either Calmini or Total Kaos. Or maybe somewhere in the middle. Heh.
Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
Are there any linkages or hoses I'll have to extend if I get a body lift?
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
The only thing you need to be concerned about is the power steering reservoir. Suggestion there is to get a new piece of hose the correct dimension for the run but two inches longer and replace it. At the very least, you'll want to remove the bottle from the mount while you do the lift. Otherwise you'll just crack the bottom of it. Ask me how I know.
Other than that, you need to loosten the spline lock bolt on the steering shaft under the hood so it can expand a little.
Other than that, you need to loosten the spline lock bolt on the steering shaft under the hood so it can expand a little.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Oh. And I forgot about these.
They're behind a metal plate on the passenger side frame rail behind the tire. You'll need to remove the plate, remove the bolt that holds the lines down and either let them hang loose under the plate or refasten them to the frame rail once the lift is done.
/credit to Extraterrain for the picture
//stole it from his body lift thread
///found here: http://www.xterranation.org/showthread.php?t=6582
They're behind a metal plate on the passenger side frame rail behind the tire. You'll need to remove the plate, remove the bolt that holds the lines down and either let them hang loose under the plate or refasten them to the frame rail once the lift is done.
/credit to Extraterrain for the picture
//stole it from his body lift thread
///found here: http://www.xterranation.org/showthread.php?t=6582
ellisfamilyokc
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- OKC
Heater hoses must be disconnected rm the back of the block. But, do not try to disconnect them from the core. The core has plastic nipples that self-destruct if you look at them wrong. Then you get to take out the dash to replace them.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
I won't say "must" as long as you're careful t. Should be an issue.
Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
Thanks guys! I will have to look into getting a body lift after I get my bumper.
Jack Stilts
Skid Plates
- Location
- Michigan
The RLC is top-notch, and it's already pre-built to accommodate either no body lift or the 2" body lift, so you'll be good!
Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
Oh sweet! That'll work out for when I get a body lift later down the road.
Also I asked my dad(cuz he makes me ask him about what I want to do to my car) about the rear sway bar and he said I can't take it out. Would rear sway bar disconnects work just as well?
Also I asked my dad(cuz he makes me ask him about what I want to do to my car) about the rear sway bar and he said I can't take it out. Would rear sway bar disconnects work just as well?
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Thanks guys! I will have to look into getting a body lift after I get my bumper.
Do the BL first, as it will change the way you'd fit the bumper....or, just end up doing the bumper mounting twice instead of once.
Your dad doesn't know about the rear sway bar problems, so he thinks its safer WITH it.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
In general, sway bars are a good thing. But when you wheel an X with one, you end up with a broken shock.
Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
I don't mind remounting the bumper. And I already have the go ahead on the bumper. I still have to convince my parents to let me put a BL on.
Sorry to rain on your parade but my dad was a mechanic for 20 years. No offense but I think he has more knowledge in this aspect than you.
Sorry to rain on your parade but my dad was a mechanic for 20 years. No offense but I think he has more knowledge in this aspect than you.
Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
I'll just get the disconnects then I can get the best of both worlds. I don't plan on going on very rough trails soon. Mostly because I don't know where any are right now but I'm going to explore in the next couple weeks
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- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Just to give you a heads up, TJ has an encyclopedic knowledge of Xs. While his opinions may be questioned, his X knowledge is beyond reproach.
Plus, you can rain on people's parades all you want. In fact, sometimes it's encouraged. But if you don't have to be rude about it.
Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
Sorry wasn't trying to be rude I just have to have a little fun every now and then. I get where he's coming from but I also get where my dad is coming from too. I just know that 100% of what my dad says mechanically wise is true. I don't know you guys at all but it'd be fun if I did more people to wheel with
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
No worries. And no one is calling your dad wrong. We're just going off of our experience with sway bars on these particular vehicles.
I took mine off a week after I bought the truck. Never missed it for a minute. And when I wheel, I don't have to lay on the ground to disconnect it or risk forgetting and damaging my truck.
I took mine off a week after I bought the truck. Never missed it for a minute. And when I wheel, I don't have to lay on the ground to disconnect it or risk forgetting and damaging my truck.
Ask him why the rear sway bar breaks the passenger side rear shocks on 2000 - 2004 X's. He should then be able to tell you why....w/o needing to go out and look.
People have had:
1) The rear bar's link breaks that shock, so they have no p-side rear shock,, which is dangerous.
2) The link breaks, and the sway bar then whips about under there, breaking other stuff, including people who've had their brake lines ripped, which is also dangerous.
3) The whipping sway bars have also slashed sidewalls and wedged tire/well areas, etc.
And, they don't do much to prevent sway either.
The FRONT bar works like a charm though.
So, I'm sure you're dad is a great and knowledgeable mechanic, but, experts have FIELDS. A Great brain surgeon might not be familiar with how to treat Ebola.
If he has not worked on Xterra suspensions, it would be unlikely he would have come across this issue.
As you are a kid, and he's your dad, obviously, you do what he says, and if he makes you get some rattlers under there, just do it to avoid a fight.
The rattling from the disconnects is a small price to pay for listening to your dad.
Do try to arrange the disconnects so as to not break the shock on droop though...people have had the shocks, and the links, break from simply pulling into driveways or driving on a snowy road, etc...not even off roading.
Its one thing to be obedient, but your dad is trying to protect his son...and, if he KNEW about the issues, he would help you to do a good work around. Talk to him about it....and you'll see, he'll figure out a way to protect you one way or the other, its what dads DO.
Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
Ya. I'll have to ask him. Sometimes I think he just doesn't want my car to go everywhere that his '07 rubicon will go
Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
It's a 4dr. It's actually really fun to take offroading where it comes factory with remote sway bar disconnect and lockers. But he ruined it when he put big chrome wheels on it. And it sits to low for the tires it has. But I can't be mad cuz it's been a lot more places than my car.
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Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
There's a lot of things he wants to do but its all about the $$$$$
Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
Quick question. I have been wanting to get a light bar for my X but it bothers me every time I get in because I cant find a good place to put switches. Where do you guys mount them?
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
You should have one blank to the left of the steering wheel and another one that just says security and had a blinking light. I popped that out and left it behind the dash. There's two switch positions.
Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
Ya that's where mine are at right now but it just seems a little inconvenient having to reach kinda under the steering wheel. And eventually I want to have more switches for air lockers and an air compressor.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Check out my build thread. I have a lot of switches.
Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
Ya I like your setup. How do you like your light bar mounts?
Bdcottom
Bought an X
- Location
- Paul, Idaho
Would you be willing to PM me better pics of your switches by chance?
Jack Stilts
Skid Plates
- Location
- Michigan
These are the switches he's talking about:
Convenient location, easy to pop those little panels out, and plenty of room to wire.
Convenient location, easy to pop those little panels out, and plenty of room to wire.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Which ones? I've the the three in the center stack, one in the overhead, two on either side of the steering wheel.... Heh... So many.