This. I haven't dug into the heater circuit, but if you use a relay with a transistor based circuit, you _NEED_ a diode in reverse across the coil so it doesn't spike current back to the transistor. The diode doesn't need to be anything huge, I've typically used a 1n4148.
Prime'z X
- Thread starter Prime
- Start date
This. I haven't dug into the heater circuit, but if you use a relay with a transistor based circuit, you _NEED_ a diode in reverse across the coil so it doesn't spike current back to the transistor. The diode doesn't need to be anything huge, I've typically used a 1n4148.
My suggestion would be to remove the hatch switch from the SECU circuit and use the switch to trigger the loading lights that way. The dome lights wouldn't come on with the hatch, but you have a light with a switch right there in the ceiling to flip on if you need it.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Good to know. Where and in what direction the diode needs to be?
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
But I want everything!
OffRdX
Lockers Installed
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
I have this problem too. When I'm doing a project my buddies always come up with a simpler way to accomplish it but I'd lose some functionality. So I hold my ground and make it difficult, always happy in the end though.
Sent from my portable electronic device.
- Location
- Amarillo, TX
Sounds like me and my antenna plans...
- Location
- Amarillo, TX
This is confirmed btw, cargo dome doesn't come on with doors...
As an easy solution, find out if the door sensor breaks or completes the circuit, then put a relay, switched from the hatch open switch/sensor, if the door completes when open use a regular normal open relay, if switch/sensor breaks the circuit then use a normally closed relay
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
The hatch switch supplies ground when the door is open. However, it supplies ground to the computer, not to the light. Which is the complication.
- Location
- Amarillo, TX
Let me finish driving to get the sketchpad and I'll see what I can come up with
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
I think Deeb is on the right track. If I put a diode in line for the ground on the lights, then I tap that in line to the body ground that the switch goes to the light should be able to use the switch and body ground without back feeding to the computer.
Just a question of how big of a diode do I need. Unfortunately, I can't find any specs on these lights to calculate the load.
Just a question of how big of a diode do I need. Unfortunately, I can't find any specs on these lights to calculate the load.
Just a signal diode is fine. 1n4148. I've use those in 12v circuits without issue.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
If this works, Imma buy you a present Deeb.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Me: No, Radio Shack I don't need 10 diodes.
RS: TOO BAD!!!
RS: TOO BAD!!!
- Location
- Amarillo, TX
So, here's the issue I find...in my sketching of the diagram,
If the diode stops the juice from the relay "switch" it shouldn't function as the ground, correct? Given that you'll be hooking it to a negative lead....
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
No relay. I'm just going to pull 12v from my fuse block and loop the ground through the switch.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
I may still install a Carling switch in he cargo area so I can cut them off. But that simply interrupting the 12v leg.
On a side note, got everything I need hook it up and test. And I got the hot line run from the hatch to my fuse box. Didn't have time to hook anything up today. Maybe tomorrow, be definitely by the weekend.
On a side note, got everything I need hook it up and test. And I got the hot line run from the hatch to my fuse box. Didn't have time to hook anything up today. Maybe tomorrow, be definitely by the weekend.
caseycamby
Suspension Lift
- Location
- Marion, NC
I know this is a bigtime flashback but I'm about to do the install this coming weekend and I need all my questions answered
On the other two holes, did you just use some self-tapping screws or what? I don't know with the snorkel I have that I can use the windshield frame screw..
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
I just left the one. Didn't add anything else.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
This came today.
Because no chrome.
Because no chrome.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
On the downside, the finish is pretty terrible. I'm gonna send it back and see if someone local can anodize the one that came with the winch.
caseycamby
Suspension Lift
- Location
- Marion, NC
Oh ok. I got some screws for a dollar just in case. It didn't act like it wanted to swivel on you?
Also, yes. Because no chrome!!
Also, yes. Because no chrome!!
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Yeah until it's bolted to the fender. Then it's all good. Having on a nit of a pivot helps when lining things up on the fender. Attach that one point and then spin the body of the snorkel until you get an even line up the A pillar
caseycamby
Suspension Lift
- Location
- Marion, NC
Ah that makes sense. Good tip!
02Xterra
Wheeling
- Location
- Central VA
I've used Global Metal Finishing in Roanoke with very good results for anodizing aluminum parts for various projects for work over the years.. and it looks like they're running a free shipping deal at the moment
http://www.globalmetalfinishing.com/#
Their prices are reasonable.. If u call em up, talk to Ben Lawhorn and tell him Shaun from Babcock & Wilcox referred ya. I designed a retirement gift for upper management at my work a few years back.. all aluminum and 15 separate pieces, some as small as 1/4" square lol. The sub body is a little over 12" long, 1-1/4" diameter. They did an awesome job with them.. we made 6 initially lol http://www.globalmetalfinishing.com/content.aspx?ContentID=1398
Last edited:
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Let there be light!........ Again........
No diode required. Simply tapped the ground from the lights to the red wire coming from the latch. Everything works exactly as I wanted it to.
No diode required. Simply tapped the ground from the lights to the red wire coming from the latch. Everything works exactly as I wanted it to.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Thanks! I'll check them out.
D33DsY
Test Drive
- Location
- Galax, Virginia
Clean CB install! Keep it up
Chetter
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- Chattanooga, TN
Just to make sure I got this straight....(being the electrical genius that I am...lol). So tapping the ground into the red wire makes the lights only come on when the hatch is opened (hatch latch is released)?
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Yeah. Hot wire for the lights goes straight to battery, ground goes to red/blue wire on latch harness. Lights only come on when hatch is opened. No complications.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Interesting thing popped up this evening. Turns out that the rear doors and the hatch are all in the same loop. Now I knew that from reading the diagram. However, I didn't grasp that if one of the doors opens it completes the SAME circuit on the hatch switch. So when someone opens the back door, the loading lights come on. Not the end of the world since I hardly ever use the back seat. For now! But just a heads up to anyone looking to do this mod.
Jack Stilts
Skid Plates
- Location
- Michigan
Oooooh, so pretty.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Interesting. If I'm so inclined, I might try that.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Just got off the phone with James at RLC. Bumper is done and shipping tomorrow!
caseycamby
Suspension Lift
- Location
- Marion, NC
Let the badassery ensue!
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Yeah, once I figure out the finish.
caseycamby
Suspension Lift
- Location
- Marion, NC
I suggest bedliner but I'm biased haha
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
DIY bedliner is cheap and can be touched up at home, powder coat is expensive and can't be touched up, Line-X is also expensive but with the lifetime warranty touch ups are not my problem.