Prime'z X

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Yeah. Already had the Calmini AAL. I used that instead of shackles for the PML. And I already installed the 3" lift Bilsteins about 4 months ago.

So the suspension is:

Rear:
Calmini 2 leaf AAL
AC lift shackles
Bilstein 3" lift 5100s

Front:
Calmini UCAs
SwayAway Torsion Bars
3" lift yellow/blue Bilsteins
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
How are your cv angles? Mine were pretty bad after installing my a arms needed up lowering it two inches from how I had it

Doesn't seem to be much more than w/ just the PML. I certainly don't think it out of operable spec. I think my original PML was cranked a little higher than it should have been and I haven't had an issue. We'll see.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Took a picture of the CV axle with the weight on the truck. Doesn't look too bad.

je7e2yzy.jpg


Also, need to install the extended brake line bad. This is at full droop.

jesu7eza.jpg


Have plenty of extra air line under the hood. And need to reroute the ABS wires as well.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Headers!

So. Special tools. E10 external Torx socket, 12mm Allen key, lots of 14mm sockets and a 14mm open ended wrench.

By far and away the easiest header install I've ever done. Mainly due to the body lift. W/o the body lift this would have been damn near impossible and I would have given up a long time ago. All the factory studs came out nice and easy except for one. But it was a short stud and the nut came off clean. So I left it.

Pictures!

eqa4e5u5.jpg


pytu6evy.jpg


guveregy.jpg


Here you can see the supplied plug for the EGR valve that required the 12mm Allen wrench.

Also fitted new PaceSetter cat'd mid pipes. Boltted right up w/ the appropriate gaskets, no leaks whatsoever.

syhe2u9u.jpg


de2ezu4u.jpg


ahu2y9ud.jpg


In the last pic you can clearly see my aft passenger O2 sensor. Unfortunately, with the right angle CEL eliminators, this was the ONLY position it would work. So I ordered a straight one and that should be here this week so I can fix that.

Also, picked up some clevis shackles from Fastenal today. Unfortunately they are bright freaking yellow. I hate the color. Hate. So I'm repainting them blue to match the truck. More on that when the paint is dry.

ysyrazu8.jpg
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
And I had to extend the front passenger side O2 sensor to make it work.

edezutyt.jpg


And wow. I did not realize how crappy that picture was until right now.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Removal. Hands down. You have to be able to get a socket and breaker bar on a nut you can't see. You MIGHT be able to get the bottom ones through the wheel well. I don't remember how much gap there used to be.

You'll have to pull the intake tube between the air box and throttle body. And use the 14mm open ended wrench a lot more.

A word of advice, don't bother unbolt the factory mid pipes. Just get out the sawzall.

You do have to unbolt the upper cats from the manifolds in order to get to all the manifold bolts. 3x 14mm. And those will be a chore. I was able to get 3 feet worth of extensions and break those loose through and well above the engine bay.
 

KChurch86

Banned
Founding Member
I'll have the luxury of an overhead lift for this job. I'm more at home on a driveway or sometimes a creeper, but not a lift...maybe that'll make the job easier? Not sure.

My mechanic buddy is convinced that the transmission cross member will have to come out to have room to work and remove the parts. I'm not convinced. He also says he might like to try to cut as much as we can get at...including the manifolds. I've never laid eyes on my manifold studs but the pessimist in me is telling me they're going to want to break.

Thanks for the pointers man, I appreciate all your help through this process.

And no CEL I assume?
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
In fact, you might want to run to sears and get one of those fancy ratcheting open ended wrenches. It'll make your life a lot easier.

On top of that, when you do the install, you have to leave the headers about half way down the studs to seat and start a few of the nuts on the top side.

And on the passenger side you HAVE to pull the studs for the most rearward port because the headers use the opposite ones. There are four holes that form a square. The factory manifolds use two corners, the headers, the opposite corners.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
No need to pull the crossmember. Cut the mid pipes into small enough pieces and they'll come right out. I cut mine just in front of the downstream O2s so I didn't have to fight the upper cat to mid pipe nuts.

The studs actually came out really easily. Just make sure to remove them by hand w/ a ratchet once loose. I backed a few out with an impact and slightly ate the threads in the head, but luckily not so much that I couldn't get the new studs in and tight. And make sure that the E10 socket is perfectly square and tight before breaking the stud loose. That's how I managed to round off one of the studs. Pretty much all of the long studs came out when I tried to break the nuts. So don't be surprised by that.
 

yellowx16

Need Bigger Tires
Founding Member
Location
Rochester, NY
jealous of those yellow Clevis shackles!! I was going to paint my current black ones, I may just have to go pick up some yellow ones.
 

Mirage

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Founding Member
Location
Greenville SC

Dephep

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Site Sponsor
Location
Warsaw IN.
Hey Jay, you and Jack ready to get busy on the front of those racks? I forgot to get the tray so a template might be in order for the contour.
 

Jack Stilts

Skid Plates
Location
Michigan
I also forgot to get the tray to you...my bad. I was planning on just bringing it down to the GLX run on the 12th. If you need it before then, I can ship it to you.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I'm ready. I'll grab some measurements and get them to you ASAP. Brian, if you want me to pitch in on shipping that basket to Tony, let me know.
 

drbandkgb

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Hey Jay, you and Jack ready to get busy on the front of those racks? I forgot to get the tray so a template might be in order for the contour.

Are you planning in doing a basket? I can get you my basic design and measurements
 

Dephep

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Site Sponsor
Location
Warsaw IN.
No need to ship, I wanted to talk more any way, I like what Boondox did with his leaving room for the LED bar. I like the idea of keeping the airdam and having the lights behind/above that edge, He says less drag and no wind noise. thanks Dave I'll get it from Brian at Xtoberfest.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Bi-Xenon HID build has been completed!

See the complete build HERE: http://www.xterranation.org/showthr...Bake-Open-Paint-Install-HID-Projectors-Profit

And now, for some pictures.
384p.jpg


0zyn.jpg


65k7.jpg


0g6y.jpg


qdue.jpg


px2e.jpg


63s3.jpg


8uqp.jpg


yq7o.jpg


35w8.jpg


This last one is the view from inside with ALL forward facing light on.

vztu.jpg


And just the HID low beams:

q456.jpg


As usual with night time pictures, they just don't do it justice. Trust me. These things are super awesome. And a really fun project to do.
 

Kyle

Wheeling
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Looks good! :smile:

(is that snow?? ...where in the hell did you find that??! It didn't snow. It just rained for a damn week straight ROFL)
 
Last edited:
Top