- Location
- Conroe, TX
I think you do.
- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
So my most recent project has accented the painting job I'm still in the process of finishing on my house. This was an easy project that I'd say ANYONE could do.
I decided to build my own shutters (non-functional) to make the colors on my house pop.
I started off with 8 foot 1"x4"s as my long boards. I started off thinking I'd do just to on each side of the window but it looked more proportional to do three. I cut them to run the full length of the window.
Next I cut an 8 foot 1"x2" down to fit the width of the three 1"x4"s with the spacing of a 1"x2" set on it's side between them.
I then painted all of the pieces before putting them together.
I used a nail gun to piece it all together and followed up by drilling 1/4" holes in the mortar between the bricks with a 1/4" concrete bit. I put in those plastic counter sinks and used 3/16"x1 3/4 screws to get through the wood and into the hole sufficiently. I pre-drilled the wood and the wall by holding the shutter where I wanted it and drilling through the wood into the wall with a 5/32" concrete bit.
I gave all of it a second coat of paint after I had them mounted because I figured I could cover up any blemishes inflicted during mounting and the bright blue screws I used.
Before:
After:
and I've got landscaping plans this summer for that sad little tree on the right
I decided to build my own shutters (non-functional) to make the colors on my house pop.
I started off with 8 foot 1"x4"s as my long boards. I started off thinking I'd do just to on each side of the window but it looked more proportional to do three. I cut them to run the full length of the window.
Next I cut an 8 foot 1"x2" down to fit the width of the three 1"x4"s with the spacing of a 1"x2" set on it's side between them.
I then painted all of the pieces before putting them together.
I used a nail gun to piece it all together and followed up by drilling 1/4" holes in the mortar between the bricks with a 1/4" concrete bit. I put in those plastic counter sinks and used 3/16"x1 3/4 screws to get through the wood and into the hole sufficiently. I pre-drilled the wood and the wall by holding the shutter where I wanted it and drilling through the wood into the wall with a 5/32" concrete bit.
I gave all of it a second coat of paint after I had them mounted because I figured I could cover up any blemishes inflicted during mounting and the bright blue screws I used.
Before:
After:
and I've got landscaping plans this summer for that sad little tree on the right
- Location
- Dickinson, TX
Looks real good Mac, there is a guy just outside of our neighborhood that did that and painted them red and now that house stands out so much more then it ever did before.
- Location
- Central FL
Nice work Mac! Love the pallet shelves and the shutters look awesome!
- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
I'm working on a new project.
- Location
- Dickinson, TX
I really love the placement and color choice of the trash cans!!
- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
Thanks, those things have seen better days. We are really working then hard with this project. That poor brown one was buckling really bad so we reinforced it.
- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
I still need to make one for my chemicals for the yard.
- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
All together now...
- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
- Location
- Dickinson, TX
Looks good sir, I too have a back patio with no cover and want to do something like this.
- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
I budgeted $400 and came up really close to that. This is 12'x12' with 7-2x6x12s, 2-4x4x10s, 30-2x4x12s, 5 joist hangers, 10 z style clips, screws, lag bolts and washers, and a gallon of stain treatment. All of the wood was treated before hand but the stain treatment was mainly for coloring.
- Location
- Dickinson, TX
Thanks for the prcicng, I hate asking stuff like that but like everyone else I do want to know. I' am suprised you only posted two pictures of it, I imagined to myself that the gentleman in the picture prolly told you to put the camera down and get this done or else...he looks like a no nonsense kind of guy. And I think we are going to need to get a better shot of the young lady in the door way too!!
- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
Haha, yeah I was going to take more pictures but my dad has become much more busy lately so you're definitely right about but taking pictures. I will happily answer any questions anyone has. We made the gaps in the top between the 2x4s 1 3/4" apart.
- Location
- Probably in class..
Per Macs request. This is a shelf I built in my materials and processes class. It's made of all mahogany and blued steel. Along with stainless steel..
The shelf is double tapered (meaning that from left to right it is tapered and then from the wall to the front edge is also tapered) and the vertical piece is tapered on the back. The illusion is that the shelf is coming out of the wall, both horizontal and vertical pieces are angled to create this.
I made everything on this shelf except for the cable. Which looking back I could have made..
Also the horizontal member is supported to the vertical piece by the cable but also two steel pins that are in the gap between the two pieces.
The shelf is double tapered (meaning that from left to right it is tapered and then from the wall to the front edge is also tapered) and the vertical piece is tapered on the back. The illusion is that the shelf is coming out of the wall, both horizontal and vertical pieces are angled to create this.
I made everything on this shelf except for the cable. Which looking back I could have made..
Also the horizontal member is supported to the vertical piece by the cable but also two steel pins that are in the gap between the two pieces.
- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
That's really cool man. Did you buy the blued steel or did your have a process of blueing it?
- Location
- Probably in class..
I blued it.. And Az, like dis?
metzican
Suspension Lift
- Location
- Lafaytte, la
Well this is what I have been doing while waiting for parts and money for my X. This is my second one the first one ended up horrible and I did it about a year ago. This one is going much better
- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
Holy cow, is that for people use? That's awesome.
ThePlasticOne
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- Boston, MA
I haven't done much with wood lately (I'm all about the metal, baby) but back in art school I crafted this:
My woodworking professor made guitars. I learned from the best.
Factoid: it was completely glued and stringed when I cut the top and bottom body panels on a band saw. Only minimal sanding required afterward - I am a band saw gobble!
My woodworking professor made guitars. I learned from the best.
Factoid: it was completely glued and stringed when I cut the top and bottom body panels on a band saw. Only minimal sanding required afterward - I am a band saw gobble!
Last edited:
metzican
Suspension Lift
- Location
- Lafaytte, la
No its not for people use, it is about 38" long. One day when I'm more at a permanent house location I want to do a canoe and little row/fishing boat.
- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
Ahhh gotcha, I couldn't tell on my phone.
- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
That stuff Cameron used for his car emblem table would probably work.
brett
Bought an X
- Location
- Little Rock, AR
For a few years, I've been looking at this hackjob done to my father-in-law's bed frame. His bedroom furniture was bought by his great-grandfather around the year 1890. Apparently back in the day, people were not as tall - so beds were shorter in length. This bed my father-in-law has been using for years was lengthened by his father by 8", which permitted a full-size mattress to fit. The headboard and footboard are beautiful pieces of oak, the grain is unlike any you can buy today. The two rails were cut and an 8" piece of plywood was added to each solid oak rail. Then some dark red stain was applied, here's a couple of pictures of the hack job:
The visible side, notice the carriage bolts, very attractive
The hidden side, even prettier
By adding this patch in the middle, the rails became unstable and my father in law even had coat hangers and duct tape to keep them from spreading out and the slats dropping. It was a real rig to say the least, for me it seemed so pitiful to see such a pretty piece of furniture in such sad shape. I discovered that my father in law was purchasing a new mattress, so I sprang into action - purchased about $150 in red oak, and went to work.
The rails hang into the headboard and footboard by these steel brackets. I made a test piece as to experiment with hanging this bracket, and testing the finish. There are actually a couple of 5/16" steel pins that hold the bracket into the rail, but then the rail sits on a couple more steel pins inside the foot/head boards. It was really no problem to transfer the bracket over, here's my test piece, and a trial fit.
After installing the bracket, the test piece is sitting on top of the footboard - this will give you an idea of why I wanted to repair it:
The bracket fit well into the footboard, only a couple of minor adjustments were needed after I did the final fit on the real rails later:
You can probably see the scratches in the footboard above, I can only figure that was from years of abuse from the old steel springs used under mattresses. I'm not too worried about those scratches because they are hidden when the box springs and mattress are in the frame.
Here are the full length rails after completion, with the wood conditioner applied just prior to staining.
I had made a couple of attempts at paint stores to have the finish matched, but no luck. I assume the original manufacturers had techniques that are not in use today. Who knows what 120 years may do to finishes? So I reached into my supply of pieces of cans of stain and started experimenting. I used Ipswitch pine as the first coat, then dark walnut as the second coat of stain. I didn't wipe the excess off from the walnut stain, I just let it dry a couple of days. It seemed to match the original finish pretty well.
Here's the rails after applying the walnut stain - looks like it has the polyurethane on it, but it doesn't.
The final finish, includes 3 coats of minwax fast drying polyurethane, sanded after the first two coats:
It's not exact, but I'm very satisfied with the color match. Looks way better than the original hack-job:
Here's a picture of the headboard, part of my inspiration for repairing it. Wonder who might inherit this family heirloom?
The visible side, notice the carriage bolts, very attractive
The hidden side, even prettier
By adding this patch in the middle, the rails became unstable and my father in law even had coat hangers and duct tape to keep them from spreading out and the slats dropping. It was a real rig to say the least, for me it seemed so pitiful to see such a pretty piece of furniture in such sad shape. I discovered that my father in law was purchasing a new mattress, so I sprang into action - purchased about $150 in red oak, and went to work.
The rails hang into the headboard and footboard by these steel brackets. I made a test piece as to experiment with hanging this bracket, and testing the finish. There are actually a couple of 5/16" steel pins that hold the bracket into the rail, but then the rail sits on a couple more steel pins inside the foot/head boards. It was really no problem to transfer the bracket over, here's my test piece, and a trial fit.
After installing the bracket, the test piece is sitting on top of the footboard - this will give you an idea of why I wanted to repair it:
The bracket fit well into the footboard, only a couple of minor adjustments were needed after I did the final fit on the real rails later:
You can probably see the scratches in the footboard above, I can only figure that was from years of abuse from the old steel springs used under mattresses. I'm not too worried about those scratches because they are hidden when the box springs and mattress are in the frame.
Here are the full length rails after completion, with the wood conditioner applied just prior to staining.
I had made a couple of attempts at paint stores to have the finish matched, but no luck. I assume the original manufacturers had techniques that are not in use today. Who knows what 120 years may do to finishes? So I reached into my supply of pieces of cans of stain and started experimenting. I used Ipswitch pine as the first coat, then dark walnut as the second coat of stain. I didn't wipe the excess off from the walnut stain, I just let it dry a couple of days. It seemed to match the original finish pretty well.
Here's the rails after applying the walnut stain - looks like it has the polyurethane on it, but it doesn't.
The final finish, includes 3 coats of minwax fast drying polyurethane, sanded after the first two coats:
It's not exact, but I'm very satisfied with the color match. Looks way better than the original hack-job:
Here's a picture of the headboard, part of my inspiration for repairing it. Wonder who might inherit this family heirloom?
- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
That's some awesome work Brett. I may be building a bed for my sons future twin bed pretty soon. It's nice to see that restoring something can turn out so nice.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
That is really great work. I don't blame you for restoring the bed. craftsmanship like that is a lost art on modern day furniture. My grandson is using a dresser that I as a child. It went from me to my son then to him. A few scratches but still going strong.
metzican
Suspension Lift
- Location
- Lafaytte, la
That is great work Brett. I remember my parents restoring old furniture as a kid and I did not get it. Now that I buy my own I fully understand. I wish I could find a great used headboard and foot board.
metzican
Suspension Lift
- Location
- Lafaytte, la
On a different note. Does anyone have any experience with applying fiberglass over wood? is there anything special I should know? Anything you wish someone told you?
- Location
- Probably in class..
I've been told to make sure you put down a layer of the epoxy on the wood before you lay down your first layer, or else the wood becomes a mold for the fiberglass
brett
Bought an X
- Location
- Little Rock, AR
Thanks for the kind comments above. I do enjoy projects such as this for home furnishings, wish I had more time to do more. Probably like many of you, my inspiration/interest in wood work comes from my father. We've built several houses over the years, as in every nail, stud, etc. You pick up a lot of knowledge that way. Dad always had the table saws, band saws, etc., to play with as a teenager. As you get older, you develop much more patience - which aids your level of quality tremendously.
Much of the skill can be taught/learned, but there are those rock stars that have all the talent (or gift really). That is who I grew up with and learned a few things from. Among Dad's many gifts, he also wood carved for many years. When I was a child in the late 1970's, dad was busy wood carving some chess sets for all three of his sons.
It's a pretty neat story - he worked for 44 years in a large paper mill. Always kept his eye on the many crates that came in containing the pumps, electric motors, etc. Just about any type of wood could be found in the boards of these crates if you kept your eye open. He collected pieces of hard rock maple, oak, bass wood. He sawed most of these on the table saw into 2" square stock, then that was the last power tool he used. Most of his carving knives and tools he made himself - high carbon steel was commonly used on the cutters for the huge paper rolls in the mill. Occasionally he used the coping saw, lots of hours with files and such for the near perfect round bases.
The carving of the chess sets went on for 2 a couple of years, he carved during his 30 minute lunch and his pair of 15 minute breaks. His ability to replicate the pawns and other pieces was amazing. Side by side you can see slight variations, but as you can see below it's real art. I continue to be impressed every time I look at them.
The pieces are very special to me obviously. In a conversation with Dad recently about these I learned that the dark set is actually red oak, stained with walnut stain. For years I thought it was walnut - after close examination, I recognize the grain as red oak.
Much of the skill can be taught/learned, but there are those rock stars that have all the talent (or gift really). That is who I grew up with and learned a few things from. Among Dad's many gifts, he also wood carved for many years. When I was a child in the late 1970's, dad was busy wood carving some chess sets for all three of his sons.
It's a pretty neat story - he worked for 44 years in a large paper mill. Always kept his eye on the many crates that came in containing the pumps, electric motors, etc. Just about any type of wood could be found in the boards of these crates if you kept your eye open. He collected pieces of hard rock maple, oak, bass wood. He sawed most of these on the table saw into 2" square stock, then that was the last power tool he used. Most of his carving knives and tools he made himself - high carbon steel was commonly used on the cutters for the huge paper rolls in the mill. Occasionally he used the coping saw, lots of hours with files and such for the near perfect round bases.
The carving of the chess sets went on for 2 a couple of years, he carved during his 30 minute lunch and his pair of 15 minute breaks. His ability to replicate the pawns and other pieces was amazing. Side by side you can see slight variations, but as you can see below it's real art. I continue to be impressed every time I look at them.
The pieces are very special to me obviously. In a conversation with Dad recently about these I learned that the dark set is actually red oak, stained with walnut stain. For years I thought it was walnut - after close examination, I recognize the grain as red oak.
- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
That is phenomenal. You can't find that stuff in stores.
metzican
Suspension Lift
- Location
- Lafaytte, la
Even if you could the price would blow you away with the number of man hours into them.
metzican
Suspension Lift
- Location
- Lafaytte, la
So I talked to the local lumber yard that all the cabinet makers use. They don't have anything in stock for the sizes I want. But they can order anything I want. So with price in mind. What would you recommend for the walls and ceiling of a tear drop camper.
I need:
internal wall support and floor 5x10 3/4"
External wall 5x10 1/4"
Internal wall and roof 5x10 1/8"
Ceiling truss 2"x2" (people say use Spruce-Pine-Fir)
Everything I read says use Birch. I want it strong but the thinner sheets have to be flexible to go on the roof of the camper.
Along with this what type of core, MDF, vaneer, ect..
What type of birch, sap, white, ect...
Anything else I should know?
Another thing is all the bent roof pieces have to be placed the short way so they can bend more easily
I need:
internal wall support and floor 5x10 3/4"
External wall 5x10 1/4"
Internal wall and roof 5x10 1/8"
Ceiling truss 2"x2" (people say use Spruce-Pine-Fir)
Everything I read says use Birch. I want it strong but the thinner sheets have to be flexible to go on the roof of the camper.
Along with this what type of core, MDF, vaneer, ect..
What type of birch, sap, white, ect...
Anything else I should know?
Another thing is all the bent roof pieces have to be placed the short way so they can bend more easily
- Location
- All over PA