Prime'z X

NismoFire

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Smyrna, TN
If you look to the right hand side of the picture, you'll see a red 4ga wire. That is the direct run from the battery. It's on a 100A fuse. As long as you use a heavy enough wire, it's just another circuit.

The silver wire is the hot for my audio amp. Which is direct fed from the battery. So my fuse panel is I line w/ that. No kind of appreciable voltage drop. Of course, I am scouting for a Quest alternator.


Gotcha. I am not an electrical guru by any means. Hell this LED install will be a major deal for me.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
The key thing going to remember on automotive electrical wiring is that any bolt, screw, body panel, anything metal that is in the frame or body can be a ground (or earth, if you're feeling British). And all grounds are the same. No matter where you get it from. So you could have 15 circuits and they can all have the same ground. But each is individually operated by applying voltage to the other end of the circuit. On my roof lights, every single one of them has the same ground. I have 4 circuits and one ground. Then each set of lights has a hot 12v feed. And like magic, it works.
 

Jack Stilts

Skid Plates
Location
Michigan
Dude...what you did with that storage area is impressive.



You are a continuing source of inspiration.
 
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TKDx00

Lockers Installed
Founding Member
I finished all of my light wiring and fuse panel in the back of the truck today. Once my new center stack bezel comes in ill be able do the switch wiring and reassemble the dash.
upuby2a4.jpg


Are the 30A relays overkill for the LEDs? Absolutely. However, my switches don't support enough amperage to wire straight through them. You can't see it w/ the cover on, but the roof and side relays are only fed by a 10A fuse. The circuit for the grill lights and reverse lights are on a 15A.

HOLY CRAP!!! That's a wonderful place to put the wiring!!! DAMN I should have used it instead of buying all this wood and re-making my center console for the fuses and relays. Too late now though, the storage unit covers all that up.
 
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Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Thanks guys. Much appreciated.

And Jack, don't post South Park garbage in my thread pls. I hate that damn show and want nothing to do with it. Feel free to post quite literally anything else. Heh.

/kthxbai
 
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Jack Stilts

Skid Plates
Location
Michigan
Thanks guys. Much appreciated.

And Jack, don't post South Park garbage in my thread pls. I hate that damn show and want nothing to do with it. Feel free to post quite literally anything else. Heh.

/kthxbai



Hahahahahaha! Noted. Noted.

Also, I wanted to ask if you could do a how-to on the mutant brake light. I thought about the center brake light being covered by my (future) tire carrier, and I was initially going to attempt to re-route the center brake light to the top of the rear glass. After looking into that more, it looks like a roof-mounted brake light might be easier. Thoughts?
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Yeah. I too some pictures during the build. I'll get those up tomorrow.

In the meantime, I used a hella FF75 housing, a drilled out H3 bulb back plate, and a red LED bulb.....and some superglue....

Like I said....pics to come.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Or I'll just waddle over to my phone and post them now.

This whole thing came about because I already had the FF75 housings (I still have one more for a spare....). I wanted to use it as a 3rd brake light. So I found some red H3 bulbs on eBay. But there was a problem. The base of the bulb I received was completely incompatible with the Hella housing.

So, I took the H3 bulb that came with the Hella light and drilled out the 3 little spot welds that held the two pieces together. This allowed me to carefully remove the glass halogen bulb and toss it. I then drilled out the remaining plastic.

y8a2egu7.jpg


So I had to think of a way to attach the two. While still completing the circuit. Because instead of having two spades on this bulb there was one spade for the hot and the body of the bulb is the ground.

ne8ugyny.jpg


I tried solder. But I couldn't get the stuff to stick to the metal ring no matter how hot I got it. Enter the Super Glue.

u5yvy8u4.jpg


And BAM one H3 Led in red.
 
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Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Well crap....that didn't take long. Yeah, the FF75s are made for an H7. That makes a lot more sense. I feel really stupid right about now.
 

Xterraforce

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Founding Member
Location
Signal Mtn., TN
That was still an impressive job you did making it all work. Would you say the light output enough to justify changing out the H3s in my Hella 500FFs?
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
That's unsure. Since the LED I dropped in is red the output is not really comparable. If you get some of the ones w/the huge SMT LEDs it might be pretty good.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Well, I found a Chinese shipper on eBay that has H7 bulbs in Red. They're impressive looking and use huge Cree LED's....so we'll see how that works instead of my hacked up H3.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
It's stressful picking up a $115 part from the dealership only to take it home and immediately try to VERY carefully drill three HUGE holes in it.

But, in the end, it was worth it.

de9aqu5y.jpg


Now that the switches are where they belong:
y2udu9ej.jpg


I can finish up the rest of the wiring and put this thing back together.

Oh, and got a shipment from Creepy. Couple new additions and some new overall pictures.

ype3ujes.jpg

9u7avaza.jpg

5uha3y3a.jpg

pu7esabe.jpg
 

Xterraforce

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Founding Member
Location
Signal Mtn., TN
Nice job on those switches. If I knew that part cost that much I would have been even more nervous when I opened up the two original holes in mine.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
This is the 3rd center stack. I ruined the factory one, then the last eBay one I bought went all wrong, and now this new OEM part. I'm glad it's done and over with. No more stressing over it.
 

Roadwarrior

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
If I have to fix mine (it's sticker bombed) I'm going to a JY for mine, but those switches look clean.

Btws, you are going to laugh at my envelope when you get it.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Remember that epic movie True Lies? Toward the middle where Arnold and Jamie Lee Curtis escape from the bomb and lands on one of the Florida Keys? He picks up a cell phone and says, "we have a bright boy alert. No this is not a drill."

He wasn't talking about any nuclear bomb.

He was predicting the future of my truck:

de9apeda.jpg


mu7yge7e.jpg


apy3u9ej.jpg


va2u3azy.jpg


Also, finished all my switches and replaced the old carling rockers for new laser etched LED ones.

qy5ezuvy.jpg


uve2edus.jpg


ujujazy5.jpg


9yjuqy5y.jpg
 

Jack Stilts

Skid Plates
Location
Michigan
Tuck, I hate you so much for posting that. I've watched it like ten times and I'm still dyin.' It might even be as good as the "Wanna see what animals look like when they eat their food."

Jay, all I can say is...if you need a sidekick when you invade Jupiter, I'll be right there with ya. IT LOOKS LIKE A SPACESHIP and it's awesome.
 
I finished all of my light wiring and fuse panel in the back of the truck today. Once my new center stack bezel comes in ill be able do the switch wiring and reassemble the dash.
upuby2a4.jpg


Are the 30A relays overkill for the LEDs? Absolutely. However, my switches don't support enough amperage to wire straight through them. You can't see it w/ the cover on, but the roof and side relays are only fed by a 10A fuse. The circuit for the grill lights and reverse lights are on a 15A.

What are the specifics? I'm also thinking of a battery dedicated to commo n light systems or any other "extras". Only question is, how to keep it charged without alternator system. May look into solar as there's a local off-the-grid ham who, if he'll talk with you, is a solar genius. Is there a higher fire risk with this set-up? What about risk for going boom as its so near gas tank?
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Its actually not near the gas tank at all. The gas tank is under the back passenger seat. As long as its done correctly, you would be absolutely fine w/ any wiring. Loose connections lead to sparks. So no loose connections, no problems.

As far as a second battery, I see it as a waste. Get a good quality battery, and do a Quest alternator upgrade. that'll give you more than enough juice to run anything you can think of.

As far as specifics, the fuse panel is fed via 4-ga cable from the battery through a 100A fuse. From there I have a 5A fuse feeding power to all my switches, a 10A fuse feeding the relays for the reverse and grill lights, a 10A fuse feeding the relay for the roof lights, and a 10A fuse feeding the relay for the side (or "Alley") lights.

The trigger wires for the relay are run to the switches. Since I installed the amplifier for the stereo, I took advantage of the 4 existing rear speaker wires that run up behind the radio. One of them is my amp trigger, one is feeding my switch power to the dash, one is the trigger wire for the reverse light relay, and one is the trigger wire for the grill light relay. I only had to run two more wires forward for the roof light and the side light triggers. Since I'm using relays, the draw of the switches is non existant. 12v simply passes through. Once the switch is active, it sends that minute 12v charge to the relay which closes the circuit and lights up the world.

The relays are all 30A Automotive relays available at radio shack, the 4GA wire came w/ the amplifier wiring kit I ordered, the fuse panel is a Blue Sea: http://www.bluesea.com/products/5029/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_12_Circuits_with_Cover

what else would you like to know?
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Mmmmm.....shrockie......

avehybuv.jpg


jyhetyra.jpg


na2a7uha.jpg


a4ymyteq.jpg


Like no one has ever seen a Shrock before, but whatever. I still have to pull the bulbs from the stock 3rd brake light as its distracting shining off the inside of the tire.

Also, I definitely need some more center caps.

As far as the angle of the spare, I wedged a washer in behind the top bolt to hold the tire up like that. I think it works better than straight out.

Oh, and I just have to say, for as much money as this thing costs, I'm surprised at the lack of gusseting and re-enforcement on the back of the bumper. I always kinda thought that at least the D-ring mounts would have tied into the frame.
 
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idratherbe

Skid Plates
Location
North Shore, MA
Looking sweet! I was glad I had a backup camera after I put my on. Tough to see out the window wouldn't you say? I was wondering how you got your tire pitched up like that and now I know.

Nice work as usual!
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Shrrrrrroooooccckkkkkk

I love that canted tire. Much better than straight.

Had to do SOMETHING different. So many Shrocks.

Also, I have to find a way to get the license plate wire to auto retract. I can't deal with it just hanging loose like that. I took the other bulb socket and dunked it in DIP! to seal it up and keep the circuit safe.
 

Jmac289gt

Sliders
Founding Member
Location
Dickinson, TX
Very nice sir, Im trying not to think about doing a rear bumper now but it is getting hard to fight the urge....not sure how long I can hold off.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Lifted.

The 3" Calmini kit w/ AC Shackles. Let me tell you, it was a ***** to install. Not because of the new parts, but because of getting the old parts out. I also did the lower ball joints at the same time.

syrazy3a.jpg


5uzapequ.jpg


3ydezage.jpg


As a point of reference, I used the SwayAway torsion bars available from AC. Because of the higher spring rate, I had to start the adjusters at 25° in order to get the proper ride height and the adjuster bolts are flush w/ the bottom of the cross member. So I have plenty of sag/weight adjustment down the road.
 
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