Nissan lockers for $299!!!

NismoFire

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Smyrna, TN
The answer to that question is simple. The point at which the Lokka will disengage can only be one point, and that point is when the front end is not receiving any power. If you have an automatic transmission, it can only be when you're maintaining speed, in the gear that allows it. This means that if you're doing 10 miles an hour, in 4WD, you have to be maintaining the speed with the throttle while manually selecting the gear. If you leave it in D, with the OD on, the transmission will automatically try to get to the next higher gear that's within range and keep pressure on the locker. So with an automatic, there is always tension on the drive train. This is also why folks with automatics don't like Detroit lockers, because they want to be engaged all the time because there's power going to the rear regardless if you're in 4WD or 2WD.

Or you put it in neutral while going around the corner.

If you're in 2WD, with the hubs unlocked, you typically won't have anything to worry about. It's only when you're in 4WD, no matter the situation, that you have to worry about it.

You could even have your hubs locked in, but then you'll get the ratcheting noise whenever the tires turn at different speeds (turns, parking lot, etc.) because without power from the transmission, the Lokka won't try to keep it locked. But the spring will try to keep the cogs engaged.

If you had the springs in hand, and tried to compress them with just your hands, you'll see that they're actually much stronger than the spring you'd find in a pen.

Look at the size of the wire for the springs and how tightly they're wound. Add to the fact that there are four (4) of them, the angle of the cogs and force necessary for them to be pushed apart if they were travelling in opposite direction (the coupler would have to stay with the axle, so it's travelling at the same speed as the tire it's connected to, the driver is driven by the carrier it's installed in and can't move due to the pins behind the springs and the springs are trying to keep the driver engaged into the coupler) and you can see that it will take a LOT more effort than clicking a pen for it to disengage. That's just part of the advertising BS that they're using to get you to buy it.

lokka-bg.jpg


So what about manual trans?
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
I ordered mine tonight. Perfect for the wheeling I do and never engage 4wd on the street anyway.

so, I can't seem to find it in the FSM, but, I was 90% positive that I've read in multiple places that the front axle on a gen2 is ALWAYS engaged, so, you're going to fight the locker even in 2WD, you just won't have engine power to the axle....
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
On snow and ice I wouldn't be on the gas in a turn at least normally I wouldn't be unless I was making doughnuts.

so, on snow and ice you don't turn out of a driveway, onto another street, follow a curve in a road, or anything else? it doesn't say hard on the gas, it says on the gas, and there are TONS of times in which you're turning and have power going to the front tires....
 

Intender

Wheeling
Location
Lewisville NC
so, I can't seem to find it in the FSM, but, I was 90% positive that I've read in multiple places that the front axle on a gen2 is ALWAYS engaged, so, you're going to fight the locker even in 2WD, you just won't have engine power to the axle....

not so much fighting it, as much as just clicking as it ratchets open when you turn. without power going to the front wheels it should open up easily but would probably be annoying to listen to going down the road, and would probably damage the lokka eventually. Unless you figure out a way to convert the 2nd gen to manual hubs (not sure if its possible or ever been attempted) it wouldnt really work in the 2nd gens too well.
 

drbandkgb

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
so, I can't seem to find it in the FSM, but, I was 90% positive that I've read in multiple places that the front axle on a gen2 is ALWAYS engaged, so, you're going to fight the locker even in 2WD, you just won't have engine power to the axle....

The gen 2 axles are always in gaged.
The 4wd is based on the hubs..
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
The axles may be always engaged, but, if I'm understanding the physics of the locker correctly, as long as power isn't coming down the driveshaft (which it isn't while in 2wd) the locker will uncouple and allow you to corner freely, albeit, with a little ratcheting noise. But it shouldn't affect you in 2wd at all.
 

TKDx00

Lockers Installed
Founding Member
so, on snow and ice you don't turn out of a driveway, onto another street, follow a curve in a road, or anything else? it doesn't say hard on the gas, it says on the gas, and there are TONS of times in which you're turning and have power going to the front tires....

I was taught how to use 4wd and driving in general during a snow storm in New Hampshire and part of that was to coast into a turn on loose snow and ice. Then use the pedal once the front end was in the direction you wanted to go. Now mine may have been different teaching from popular thinking and/or teachings but it has served me for almost 35 years without an accident or lose of control. People tend to do what works for them in a pinch.
 

Diadaga

Suspension Lift
Founding Member
Location
Virginia
I was taught how to use 4wd and driving in general during a snow storm in New Hampshire and part of that was to coast into a turn on loose snow and ice. Then use the pedal once the front end was in the direction you wanted to go. Now mine may have been different teaching from popular thinking and/or teachings but it has served me for almost 35 years without an accident or lose of control. People tend to do what works for them in a pinch.

That's the way I was taught as well.
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
The axles may be always engaged, but, if I'm understanding the physics of the locker correctly, as long as power isn't coming down the driveshaft (which it isn't while in 2wd) the locker will uncouple and allow you to corner freely, albeit, with a little ratcheting noise. But it shouldn't affect you in 2wd at all.

The "physics" of the locker won't change that it's *going* to cause one or both tires to slip in snow or ice, 2wd or 4wd, doesn't matter...
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
The "physics" of the locker won't change that it's *going* to cause one or both tires to slip in snow or ice, 2wd or 4wd, doesn't matter...

Correct, if a tire doesn't have enough traction to grab, its not going to grab, no matter what gear you're in or 2wd or 4wd.

The physics do dictate that you can change how MUCH traction a tire has for propulsion, or turning though, because the contact patch has a limited amount of traction, and, if you use some of it to change direction, you have less of it for propulsion, and, visa versa.

This is WHY you are (Most are at least, if it came up...) taught to coast in the turn if its slippery enough, as if you are on the gas, you have less traction to make the rig change direction...and you tend to make a wider turn (understeer) or in extreme cases, just plow straight with the wheel turned, etc.

This is the physics used in drifting for example. You can use the throttle to steer with depending on the balance of the vehicle. Inducing spin on purpose is used to swing an end around, and getting sideways but facing the exit acceleration direction, and using a 4 wheel power slide to get through a turn by adding a little propulsion to the crabbing to make it around the turn and then hooking up already facing the right direction, and so forth, all take advantage of that physics.

So a locker can't make your rubber stickier, and, if it is fully locked w/o differentiating, it FORCES one tire to slip in a turn, because it is NOT differentiating/allowing the outside tire to make more revolutions because that tire is on the longer, outside track.

A locker that ALLOWS differentiation acts more like an open diff would, in that it DOES allow the outside tire to go faster if it needs to.so the outside tire can freewheel around the turn, with ALL its traction being available for steering as none is used for propulsion.

The INSIDE tire under those circumstances is still powered though, unlike the open diff that coasts the inside tire and powers the outside tire.

In a turn, the inside tire has less leverage than the outside tire, so the traction and steering input of an inside tire is less than that of an outside tire.

In a straight line, the open diff and the locked diff are doing the same thing...both tires are powered.

In the turn, the open diff, assuming the outside tire has some traction, it's powered, and the inside tire is coasting...so the propulsion is ENTIRELY from the outside tire, and the steering is MOSTLY from the inside tire with some help from whatever traction the outside tire has left.

In the turn, with a differentiating locker, the opposite happens, in that the outside tire is coasting, and the inside tire is powered...so that the propulsion is ENTIRELY from the inside tire, and the steering force is MOSTLY from the outside tire with some help from what ever traction the inside tire has left.


The above difference is typically subtle but can feel different, and depending on the rig, can require various degrees of familiarity to get used to.

For example, the traction for pulling or turning is going to come from the opposite side you were used to...so the handling in transitions will feel "different".

The side that used to bite and pull but not steer as well, is making you turn more but pulling less, and the side that used to steer you more and pull less is now pulling more and steering less.

The act of disengaging the gears on the faster side is a small amount of tire rotation, a few degrees...and if slippery enough to not rotate the tire itself, the side will not differentiate/disengage.


In other words, when going around a turn, a diff doesn't KNOW there's a turn, the ROAD is simply rotating the tire faster than the drive train gearing is rotating it. This works for a simple little red wagon with no gears at all, just a shaft between two tires, or a car, etc.

If the turn makes the road rotate the tire faster, the differentiating diff lets it. If its an open diff, its designed to only POWER the faster side though. If its an autolocker, its designed to CONTINUE to power the slower tire and let the faster one go unpowered by letting that side's gears ride up if the road rotates them faster than the drive train gears.


So the road is what disengages the autolocker's faster side...the same way is ENGAGES the open diffs faster side. The difference between them is that for the autolocker, the slower side is powered instead of the faster side....and there are NO cases where NO side is powered.


The Lokka -

Starting from straight ahead, it's driving both axles with the Cam gears meshed to the Axle gears.

When one tire starts to roll faster than the Cam gear is driving it (when cornering), it rolls off the cam altogether, then the little teeth ride up and separate the Cam/Axle gears...... so the outer side tire (which is now turning faster) is able to 'free wheel' around the corner.

That's how it disengages that one side for turns.
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
Sure, my point is, from what has been said, since the front axle is always engaged (just not always powered), anything short of a fully selectable locker, or open diff, is potentially dangerous for a 2nd gen. The extra tension that would exist between the tires will create increased risk of hydroplaning, sliding(pushing) on snow, and any other time when a locked front end could cause a loss of traction.

From what I'm seeing being said, this would be fine for a dedicated trail rig, but, for anything that a family is in on a daily basis, not the smartest, or safest thing to put on. While it's considerably cheaper than an ARB, it's also exponentially more dangerous, both in repairs and in driving itself
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
Sure, my point is, from what has been said, since the front axle is always engaged (just not always powered), anything short of a fully selectable locker, or open diff, is potentially dangerous for a 2nd gen. The extra tension that would exist between the tires will create increased risk of hydroplaning, sliding(pushing) on snow, and any other time when a locked front end could cause a loss of traction.

From what I'm seeing being said, this would be fine for a dedicated trail rig, but, for anything that a family is in on a daily basis, not the smartest, or safest thing to put on. While it's considerably cheaper than an ARB, it's also exponentially more dangerous, both in repairs and in driving itself


OK, you you are referring to rigs that power the front tires even if you are in 2wd?

IE: The cv's turn, but there's no force to the tires in 2wd...except in 2wd, on your 2nd gen, you still are sending power to a tire....is what you are saying.

I don't have a 2nd Gen, but, I'm pretty sure that while the CV's are freewheeling along, the hubs are not engaged...if that's incorrect, then you are correct, but, its in 4wd even in 2wd it seems?

In other words, if the hubs are not engaged, what's putting the stress on the drive train in 2wd? It would simply mean the shafts are spinning at the same rpm, but are not connected to the tires...in my understanding of it.

Are you talking about a scenario where you WERE in 4wd, and did not reverse to disengage the hubs? I could see that as a potential issue.

Is that what you mean?
 
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dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
No, I'm saying from hub to hub it's always engaged, so, if there's a locker that needs to have more force exerted on one than the other (faster rotation) it still stands to cause a loss of traction, because the tires themselves, combined with the locker, can (and will) exert force, which, could cause a loss of traction, just the same as if it were locked in to 4wd
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
No, I'm saying from hub to hub it's always engaged, so, if there's a locker that needs to have more force exerted on one than the other (faster rotation) it still stands to cause a loss of traction, because the tires themselves, combined with the locker, can (and will) exert force, which, could cause a loss of traction, just the same as if it were locked in to 4wd


So you mean that on the 2nd gen's, the truck's tires are always spinning the drive train, but the disconnect is at the front output shaft so that the engine is not driving the diff...and there's no need to unlock/lock hubs, because they are always engaged.

That's a lot of added drag in 2wd, I'm glad I have the 1st gen.

:D

OK, so let me work through what that might mean.

You are going around a turn, and the diff is exerting only drag on the two tires, the outside one IS rotated faster, by the road, and the inside one is coasting but spinning the diff just like it always does.

That sounds about the same.

If it were slippery enough to have the road NOT rotate the outer tire faster, then (THEN) the two sides WOULD stay locked though, and you'd under steer, because the outer tire would be going the same speed as the inner tire.

I have to assume that this would be the scenario of concern...and for that drivetrain on the 2nd gen X's, I would probably not get an autolocker either.


Of course, if this is how your front end works, on an open diff, in the same turn, the outer tire would not be rotated by the road due to it being too slippery, and, it would simply continue to turn at the same speed as the other inside tire. I've seen that happen on black ice for example, where the open diffed front has both tires at full lock, and the rig plows straight ahead.

In both cases (Autolocker and open diff) the ROAD needs to make the tire spin faster to cause differentiation.

I would assume that the open diff would need LESS road traction to differentiate though, so that the autolocker would understeer more easily.

That would mean that you would go a bit slower to compensate and allow the locker to get some bite if you had one, and at least I'd be less likely to get stuck with the front end being lockable.

If its a DD with that wonky always connected front end though, it does sound safer for those not willing to sacrifice to get more off road performance to get an ARB instead.
 
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dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
So you mean that on the 2nd gen's, the truck's tires are always spinning the drive train, but the disconnect is at the front output shaft so that the engine is not driving the diff...and there's no need to unlock/lock hubs, because they are always engaged.
That's exactly what I'm saying.
That's a lot of added drag in 2wd, I'm glad I have the 1st gen. :D
It's ok, we make up for it with more power, and, better fuel economy ;)
OK, so let me work through what that might mean. You are going around a turn, and the diff is exerting only drag on the two tires, the outside one IS rotated faster, by the road, and the inside one is coasting but spinning the diff just like it always does. That sounds about the same. If it were slippery enough to have the road NOT rotate the outer tire faster, then (THEN) the two sides WOULD stay locked though, and you'd under steer, because the outer tire would be going the same speed as the inner tire. I have to assume that this would be the scenario of concern...and for that drivetrain on the 2nd gen X's, I would probably not get an autolocker either.
Exactly my point sir;)
Of course, if this is how your front end works, on an open diff, in the same turn, the outer tire would not be rotated by the road due to it being too slippery, and, it would simply continue to turn at the same speed as the other inside tire. I've seen that happen on black ice for example, where the open diffed front has both tires at full lock, and the rig plows straight ahead. In both cases (Autolocker and open diff) the ROAD needs to make the tire spin faster to cause differentiation. I would assume that the open diff would need LESS road traction to differentiate though, so that the autolocker would understeer more easily.
Agreed, except, the auto locker has the potential to much more easily cause a total loss of front traction, because if one tire has zero resistance and the one getting traction is suddenly the "faster moving tire", it could get broken loose by the locker before the locker disengages, putting you in full-plow mode.
That would mean that you would go a bit slower to compensate and allow the locker to get some bite if you had one, and at least I'd be less likely to get stuck with the front end being lockable. If its a DD with that wonky always connected front end though, it does sound safer for those not willing to sacrifice to get more off road performance to get an ARB instead.
Agreed... From what I've learned in talking to friends about auto lockers, in general, the variety that require positive power from the input shaft to engage the locker is always the best (the same applies in my experience with RC stuff, the setups that allow 100% uninhibited freewheeling unless the input shaft is making the diff try to drive the axles faster than they currently are moving, always worked best, and made everything the smoothest. Buddy is digging to figure out what that auto-locker was that he had that ran this way, so we can see if they would hook us up with a sweet deal....

For a 2nd gen, grab this for the rear in a heartbeat, for 1st gens, grab it for front and rear...
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
no rear one? no fun....maybe look to see if there's a rear one for a fronty, since it's the same rear diff? what about a titan?
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
Normally, the real world issues with autolockers is that they can take ~ 1/3 rotation to work...and that ~ 1/3 rotation is what gives things time to bind, etc.

The Lokka only needs ~ 1/20 or less of a rotation to work, so, there is less distance traveled to allow binding, etc.
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
Agreed... From what I've learned in talking to friends about auto lockers, in general, the variety that require positive power from the input shaft to engage the locker is always the best (the same applies in my experience with RC stuff, the setups that allow 100% uninhibited freewheeling unless the input shaft is making the diff try to drive the axles faster than they currently are moving, always worked best, and made everything the smoothest. Buddy is digging to figure out what that auto-locker was that he had that ran this way, so we can see if they would hook us up with a sweet deal....

For a 2nd gen, grab this for the rear in a heartbeat, for 1st gens, grab it for front and rear...

OK, so you want the diff to have power from the input shaft to lock it...but, that would lock it as soon as you put it into 4wd, correct?

If your front drive train, in 2wd, has the TIRES spinning the CV, and the CV spinning the diff, the diff is being spun by the tires as you roll in 2wd...and the diff will simply STILL be spinning when you shift into 4wd, except now its ALSO being spun by the front drive shaft...so when coasting in gear, in 4wd, there is engine braking, but in 2wd, there is only diff/CV braking, etc.

If the diff locker is engaged by input from the shaft, it would essentially be need to be able to tell the difference between the shaft spinning it and the tires spinning it....an interesting idea.

:D

I'm not sure why it would be better for a truck though...I can see it for a more or less direct drive RC, etc...but for a full sized rig?



And, yeah, there are front lockers for SOME 2nd Gens, but not all the diffs are covered....and there's no rear Nissans that I saw at least.

The 1st gen X WITH a front Lokka has driven it around and says it corners and drives in 2wd exactly like there's no locker or change at all....and in 4wd, he says he feels the steering system working but the turning is w/o binding or drama, it just makes the turns as before the install, even when he tried 4wd on the road.

He's going on vakay for 2 weeks and will report back on more detail, but, so far, on a 1st gen, its problem free as far as handling quirks, etc...seems seamless even on the road in 4wd...at least the same as stock in behavior.
 
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dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
OK, so you want the diff to have power from the input shaft to lock it...but, that would lock it as soon as you put it into 4wd, correct?

close, if you don't apply positive acceleration, it shouldn't lock in

If your front drive train, in 2wd, has the TIRES spinning the CV, and the CV spinning the diff, the diff is being spun by the tires as you roll in 2wd...and the diff will simply STILL be spinning when you shift into 4wd, except now its ALSO being spun by the front drive shaft...so when coasting in gear, in 4wd, there is engine braking, but in 2wd, there is only diff/CV braking, etc.
the way my friend explains other auto-lockers, is that it's open, unless the diff is being driven to spin faster than the axle shafts are currently spinning, aka the tires aren't moving as fast as the motor wants them to.


If the diff locker is engaged by input from the shaft, it would essentially be need to be able to tell the difference between the shaft spinning it and the tires spinning it....an interesting idea.

pretty easy I'd think, engagement should come from the ring gear, not from the axle shafts


I'm not sure why it would be better for a truck though...I can see it for a more or less direct drive RC, etc...but for a full sized rig?

you can't see the merit of a locker that only locks when you're actually applying throttle enough to make the ring gear turn? why (on a front axle) would you want a locker that acts otherwise, unless it's a selectable one? Having the TIRES be able to actuate the locker would make it VERY unpredictable, having the ring gear control the locker, would make the thing VERY predictable, if you aren't touching the throttle and trying to move under power, it would freewheel, if you're trying to move under power, then it would lock, unless a tire was trying to move FASTER than the ring gear.



And, yeah, there are front lockers for SOME 2nd Gens, but not all the diffs are covered....and there's no rear Nissans that I saw at least.

The 1st gen X WITH a front Lokka has driven it around and says it corners and drives in 2wd exactly like there's no locker or change at all....and in 4wd, he says he feels the steering system working but the turning is w/o binding or drama, it just makes the turns as before the install, even when he tried 4wd on the road.

so, here's the deal, 2nd gen xterras have the same front diff, period. as far as the performance of the 1st gen, I'd expect it to be normal, since it has lock/unlock hubs...hell, from what I hear, you can even put manual locking hubs on it, which, would be pretty effin awesome I say....
 
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TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
OK, I entered 2005 Xterra, and it lists a front lokka for it: NIS-FO-41

NIS-FO-61 is listed for 2006

FO-46 for 2007 - 2013's

So, its says it has them....did someone try to order and could not?
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
OK, I entered 2005 Xterra, and it lists a front lokka for it: NIS-FO-41 NIS-FO-61 is listed for 2006 FO-46 for 2007 - 2013's So, its says it has them....did someone try to order and could not?

Scary, almost worrisome that it uses 3 different parts for the same diff... 2005-2014, same diff, same part numbers for all parts even according to nissan's exploded parts diagrams....
 

P&P

Need Bigger Tires
Site Sponsor
Location
Middle TN
Scary, almost worrisome that it uses 3 different parts for the same diff... 2005-2014, same diff, same part numbers for all parts even according to nissan's exploded parts diagrams....


You have to be careful about Nissa part numbers. Usually what is available to the public is not a part # that can tell you if a part is different from another. Even the same part, such as Front differential output shaft, on a different truck that we know has a different differential with a different number of splines on the output will have the same number on a parts diagram.

For example:

38230Y

38 designates "final drive, front"
230 designates right output shaft
Y is the first model that it was on

then 4 more digits is the real part number that are not on the diagram
 

Cyclemut

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
Morrison, CO
So TJ, you were thinking the 2nd Gens had hubs? There are no hubs at all on a 2nd Gen, the outer CV shaft is splined directly to the flange, just like a front wheel drive car. Same for the Pathfinders of this generation, Titans, Frontiers and Armadas.

If there's ANY drag on that front driveshaft, it WILL engage that Lokka.

I'd probably try to find out what the vehicles have that you're trying to sell the lockers too in the future. Not having that information but telling everyone that it will fit their vehicle and perform without incident is dangerous.
 

NMTerras

Suspension Lift
Location
New Mexico
I'm going to hear about that shovel for the rest of my life. I guess if I had a snorkel that day, I could have busted it off and used it to dig myself out.


-Rok

Or the rest of mine, whichever comes first...

...Besides, you started it with the snorkel bizness...
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
No, the lokka is always locked, and needs a tire to spin faster than the driveshaft to try to unlock it, that was my worry.

The driveshaft always spins faster than the wheels. Something like 4.6, 4.9, 3.5 times faster (depending on your gear ratio). What disengages the locker is when one WHEEL spins faster than the other while there is no input power coming from the pinion gear.

/methinks
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
The driveshaft always spins faster than the wheels. Something like 4.6, 4.9, 3.5 times faster (depending on your gear ratio). What disengages the locker is when one WHEEL spins faster than the other while there is no input power coming from the pinion gear. /methinks

Smartass. my understanding is that any time one tire moves faster than the other is being driven it'll unlock.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Smartass.

Well duh.....


I'd say that's correct, but unless there is some drastic departure from lunchbox locker design, that disengage only happens when there is no power coming down the driveshaft. If it unlocked when one tire was moving faster than the other under power, it wouldn't be a locker. If you're on a trail and one tire starts to slip, the locker would unlock and be useless.
 

Cyclemut

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
Morrison, CO
No, the lokka is always locked, and needs a tire to spin faster than the driveshaft to try to unlock it, that was my worry.

Yes and no. If you look at the pic of the lunchbox, if the driveshaft (connected to the pinion gear, engages the ring gear which is bolted to the carrier which has the cross shaft going through it that is in between the ramps of the Lokka, so we'll just say "driveshaft") has ANY drag on it, while your tires are turning (straight ahead or when turning, even if you're coasting through a corner) then the cross shaft WILL engage the ramps and lock the two CV's together, as it was designed to do. Otherwise, yes, the springs keep the drive plates engaged into the side plates, keeping it locked until the power of traction (which isn't that much on ice/snow, is it?) brakes it loose. So on slick terrain, ice/snow, it's locked.

So, you can't have ANY drag on the driveshaft worth mentioning AT ALL or the Lokka will engage and cause the plowing effect, without any forewarning at all. You'll just eat a curb, no matter what your driving habits are.

But hey, what do I know? I just ran one on a previous rig and subsequently took it out. In fact, I might still have that thing floating around in my garage. I know I have a couple of D44 carriers floating around, along with a couple of gear sets. Yeah, I fell in love with it SOOOOOOO much that I have an entire carrier with a Loc Right in it that I've never put into another diff. Go figure.

And the 2nd Gens don't even have hubs! And we all know that nothing ever goes wrong with the 4WD of a 2nd Gen. Hell, it took me over 5 minutes to get my 2nd Gen out of 4Hi this morning, but it was -18° this morning while driving through Evergreen.

Interesting point though, with the ABLS/VDC, and how they won't see what they'll need to see in order to operate correctly. Funny how the 1st Gens don't have that, right TJ?
 
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