gamecock257s AR build

gamecock257

Skid Plates
Location
Clinton, SC
EDIT: I've decided to build a rifle. As of 4/8/13 I have my stripped lower.

Drawing inspiration from Nismo Fires current thread, I thought I'd start my own as to not clutter up someone else's.

So I have a M&P 15 Sport. Nothing added to it yet except a Magpul MOE stock, handguard, and forward grip. If you know anything about these they are budget ARs (non milspec, no forward assist, no dust cover). I at one time wanted to build a new AR that had all those features, but with parts availability and prices currently, I'm going to stick with the Sport for now. I have had no problems with it as of yet and don't expect to, and at this point I would trust my life with it.

Goals for this build are to turn an already good performing rifle into something I can use in a SHTF/close quarters/plinking situations. I would use it for home defense if needed, but I have a 12gauge for that. I'd like to keep it as light as I can, and simple yet functional. I've done a fair amount of research, but am still new to ARs, especially building/modifying them. So Id like all of your inputs and comments since I'd rather deal with the XN family that i know than an AR forum that I don't.

Anyways, my plan is to mount an Aimpoint PRO on it. They are going for around $400 with mounts now, and that's a heck of a deal for a quality red dot.

With that said, I feel like I will want to get rid of my A2 front sight post because I think it will bother me looking through an optic. If I choose to do so, will I be able to remove the flash suppressor, take off the whole sight/gas block and be able to replace it with a railed gas block? I know many low profile gas blocks go under free floated rails, but I'm looking to stay away from that as it adds a lot of weight.

Also the trigger on the M&P 15 Sport leaves some to be desired. I don't think changing my trigger would be too hard. I'd like to keep a simple single stage trigger, but get one that's smoother, has a lighter pull, and has a better reset. Anyone have any thoughts on a trigger?

Thanks for the help and sorry for the long winded post.
 
Last edited:

jmnielsen

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Lincoln, NE
It's terribly easy to remove the front sight. All you need is a heavy hammer, some steel punches (got mine at harbor freight) and a wrench for the flash hider. I took mine off and cut off the sight, ground it down, painted it, and installed a ff rail.

emu2umyd.jpg


I didn't want a lo pro because no gas block is as good as the original pinned one.
 

gamecock257

Skid Plates
Location
Clinton, SC
Well, for some reason I got on PSAs website after work and they just happened to have in stock lowers. It's like it was a sign, so I went ahead and ordered one. That's what I would use if I started a rifle from scratch anyways, plus there located in my home state of SC and have a really nice shop/store/and range. Plus they haven't really started gouging prices as much as some of the bigger guys, at least not yet. So it's good to support them and I look forward to having a lower that has Columbia, SC on the side.

So what does this do for my plan? Ill answer myself, I don't really know yet. I had planed on buying a bolt action deer gun later in the year, but since then my step dad has offered to let me hunt with his old .270 Sako. So I may end up just trying to piece together my perfect AR.
 

NismoFire

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Smyrna, TN
I bought PSA strictly for the roll mark. Oh, and the fact that it said PALMETTO on it (family is from Hartsville, I lived there for a brief spell).
 

gamecock257

Skid Plates
Location
Clinton, SC
Yeah, I'm gonna take pride in repping my home state on my rifle. Not trying to still your ideas or anything Nis, I've just been tossing around some ideas of my own lately and figured I'd document them here. Maybe get some new perspectives on things and learn some stuff along the way. The lower today was definitely an impulse buy, but I'm happy I'm getting one.

If I do turn this in to a full on build I'm probably going to go with a mid length gas system and a low profile or railed gas block. Main thing now is to just nail down exactly what I want to do. If I'm going to tackle a full on build then the Aimpoint will have to wait for right now, and I'll just buy parts as they become available if I have the cash.

Other than the lower that I already have, what seems to be the hardest parts to find now? I haven't even looked at anything else yet.
 

NismoFire

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Smyrna, TN
Honestly, everything is hard to find right now. Besides lowers, though, the hardest is bolt carrier groups. I still don't have one. I have a bolt, but no carrier.

I've seen small parts start coming back in within the last few weeks. Check Midway for small parts. I've scored all my upper parts from them in the last month.



You're not copying me. "This is my rifle. There are many like it, but this one is mine."
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
Nothing added to it yet except a Magpul MOE stock, handguard, and forward grip.
move that forward grip all of the way forward...they make a fantastic forward stop for your hand if you're holding the foregrip, you can transition to the VFG easily for close quarters maneuvering, and, you already have a rearward grip...it's the magazine well ;) (sorry, it's the firearms instructor in me)

Goals for this build are to turn an already good performing rifle into something I can use in a SHTF/close quarters/plinking situations.

well...SHTF means you want to go one of two ways, easy to disassemble and clean gas driven, or, spend the extra chunk of monies and convert to piston driven. CQ is great, I'll find you some training manuals for that if I can do so legally ;)

I would use it for home defense if needed, but I have a 12gauge for that. I'd like to keep it as light as I can, and simple yet functional. I've done a fair amount of research, but am still new to ARs, especially building/modifying them. So Id like all of your inputs and comments since I'd rather deal with the XN family that i know than an AR forum that I don't.

home defense: take it out, and do your own ballistic testing, see how many "walls" it'll penetrate, and then, re-evaluate that choice when you do the same with your 12ga with slugs or buckshot.

as far as function: drop the MOE foregrip as soon as you can afford a decent free-floating foregrip, it'll do wonderous things for your shot grouping, as well as being lighter weight too.

Anyways, my plan is to mount an Aimpoint PRO on it. They are going for around $400 with mounts now, and that's a heck of a deal for a quality red dot.

just make sure if you're going red dot, that it's not the type that just reflects a red dot onto the glass in a way that the dot moves all over if you didn't shoulder and get the same cheek weld from one time to the next.

With that said, I feel like I will want to get rid of my A2 front sight post because I think it will bother me looking through an optic. If I choose to do so, will I be able to remove the flash suppressor, take off the whole sight/gas block and be able to replace it with a railed gas block? I know many low profile gas blocks go under free floated rails, but I'm looking to stay away from that as it adds a lot of weight.

uh...that makes no sense at all....if you have an A2 FSP, you might as well keep it, and get a good flip up rear sight, so that you can zero in nice and tight, then you have something you use to set the zero on your red dot with...drop the rear sight and use the front sight to your advantage with the red dot, if the dot and the FSP agree you're on target, you're more accurate that way. low profile gas blocks under a free floated handguard isn't adding weight, in fact, it's still lighter than what your stock setup is...(you have a heavier gas block now, and I promise the delta ring and other hardware associated with your MOE handguard weighs more than a mid length free float)

Also the trigger on the M&P 15 Sport leaves some to be desired. I don't think changing my trigger would be too hard. I'd like to keep a simple single stage trigger, but get one that's smoother, has a lighter pull, and has a better reset. Anyone have any thoughts on a trigger?

well, if your trigger break doesn't bother you too much, you can just insert this part instead (http://www.brownells.com/rifle-part.../ar-15-reduced-power-spring-kit-prod7582.aspx)

most higher grade triggers that I've found are dual-stage...I'm like you however, I like one weight pull on my rifles...in fact, I love the heavier deliberate trigger pull of my DPMS's stock setup.

Thanks for the help and sorry for the long winded post.

sorry for the long winded multi-quoted reply ;) hopefully there's some useful info in there...
 

gamecock257

Skid Plates
Location
Clinton, SC
dhyde79: thanks for that long winded reply, anything I learn or any different perspective I get is a plus for me. The main thing I need to do is get rounds down range. I got this rifle right before sandyhook, and since I can't find/can't afford ammo for it. I'm just not going to pay the prices being asked right now.

Anyways I've decided that I'm going to build a completely new rifle since I've got the lower coming and all. Probably will take me a while, but it'll be fun and educational at least.

As for the hand guard, I did a bit of quick research and was shocked at how light some of the free floated rails are. I saw many 10 and 11" rails about the sams or only an ounce or two heavier than the mid length moe. So now my only objection to free floaters is cost lol.

The deal with the A2 FSP. I haven't shot a rifle with a red dot yet, so I don't really know how I'll like it with the FSP I just assume ill like the option to fold the front down better. I also like the look of one continuous rail so with this new build I'm probably going mid length gas with a free floated rail. Mid lengths are 9" correct? So if I want a low profile gas block that is completely covered by the hand guard ill need a 10" or 11" I assume.

Still have a lot to learn about ARs and a lot to figure out about this build. If I could get my hands on some reasonably priced ammo I really want to shoot a few different types of ARs just to see how different they really are.
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
dhyde79: thanks for that long winded reply, anything I learn or any different perspective I get is a plus for me. The main thing I need to do is get rounds down range. I got this rifle right before sandyhook, and since I can't find/can't afford ammo for it. I'm just not going to pay the prices being asked right now.

go talk to your local walmart, ask them when their shipments come in (ammo specifically) so that you can be waiting, you'll get it for normal shelf price, and, at walmart, it's pretty effin cheap (if you buy the bulk packs, you're getting it for under .40/rd and that's fantastic).

Anyways I've decided that I'm going to build a completely new rifle since I've got the lower coming and all. Probably will take me a while, but it'll be fun and educational at least.

I'd agree with you, but, you need to do a few things first.
1. GO SHOOT
2. have a VERY clear picture in your head of what you want the rifle to do
3. have a clear picture of what you want it to look like
4. lay it out like a roadmap, find the place that prices each part you need the cheapest, and, since you already have a functional rifle, take your time.
5. if you aren't savvy, take your pile-o-parts to an armorer, and ask that they assist you in assembly. This is VERY important. A competent armorer will have the headspace gauges so that you can check your barrel to make sure it's safe, as well as the knowledge of how to build the rifle properly, and any other tools that you may need.
6. remember, check it 5-6 times, build it once. make sure you have each and every part you will need.
7. probably the most important part here: do NOT go buy something cheap first because you'll go buy something better later to replace it with. that's like saying "oh I know I need new tires, but here, let me take these little 27" tires for now because I really need new tires, I'll just buy my stock 32's here in a couple of months" not only did you waste your time and money buying a cheap alternative first, now, you may have damaged the rest of the parts, or worse, you may have to cut the bad parts off because they've critically failed.

As for the hand guard, I did a bit of quick research and was shocked at how light some of the free floated rails are. I saw many 10 and 11" rails about the same or only an ounce or two heavier than the mid length moe. So now my only objection to free floaters is cost lol.

amazon.com has some decent prices on free floaters, this is the one spot where I firmly believe that spending a buttload of money because of the name on something is stupid. if you go check, I've got a free float thread I just made, both of them are 7" carbine length ones and right at $62+shipping (and I've got prime, so, no shipping for me)

The deal with the A2 FSP. I haven't shot a rifle with a red dot yet, so I don't really know how I'll like it with the FSP I just assume ill like the option to fold the front down better. I also like the look of one continuous rail so with this new build I'm probably going mid length gas with a free floated rail. Mid lengths are 9" correct? So if I want a low profile gas block that is completely covered by the hand guard ill need a 10" or 11" I assume.

mids are 9-10", so, if you want to cover a mid profiled barrel with a low profile gas block, you'll probably want a rifle length free float tube, at which point you're looking around 12"

Still have a lot to learn about ARs and a lot to figure out about this build. If I could get my hands on some reasonably priced ammo I really want to shoot a few different types of ARs just to see how different they really are.

if you were nearby, I'd take ya out and let ya shoot mine, my wife's, and my neighbors....mine's the most built and accurate of the bunch at long range, at 100m or less, they're all about equal...
 

gamecock257

Skid Plates
Location
Clinton, SC
So I just got a tracking number for my lower, it's scheduled to be here later today.

My birthday is coming up so hopefully ill have some spare cash to get a LPK, then ill just throw my M&P 15 Sport upper on the new PSA lower for the time being. However I am considering getting an Aimpoint and a nice sling and mounts for my current AR before I do anything to this lower.
 

gamecock257

Skid Plates
Location
Clinton, SC
Got my stripped lower today, looks good. Plan right now is if I buy something for the rifle I put at least that much into savings before I buy anything else. That way I don't let the kid spending habits that are still in me get out of control.

4A97B2C3-1054-4861-8E78-80A1C277A500-742-000000844458DB6C_zpsf277abdf.jpg


This has an extremely long way to go, but at least I have the FFL part out of the way.
 

jmnielsen

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Lincoln, NE
It will be nice for you that everything from here out can be shipped directly to your door. My two PSA lowers showed up at my FFL as well, now just to go pick them up!
 

gamecock257

Skid Plates
Location
Clinton, SC
Definitely. A week or so ago PSA had a mid length upper with barrel and an Aimpoint PRO for $700. Considering the optic itself is $400 that's a hell of a deal I'd say. Going to take a while to save up that kind of coin, but I'd love to jump on a deal like that.
 

gamecock257

Skid Plates
Location
Clinton, SC
Bought myself a lower build kit from PSA yesterday. Everything I need to get my stripped lower put together.

They opened a new retail store in Greenville which is right up the road from me. So I bought it in store. Impressive selection of pistols rifles and shotguns plus a good variety of ammo. But I was very disappointed in the employees.

One I spoke to said he had never taken an AR apart and didn't know what a buffer tube was when I asked him about them. Another didn't know what a pistol length gas tube was when my buddy asked if they had any. Unusual for PSA since all the guys in the Columbia store are very knowledgable and helpful and most are ex armed forces or police it seems like.
 

jmnielsen

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Lincoln, NE
What are you going to build your lower in to? As far as gun store employees, 9/10 that I've talked to don't know Jack S. Hit, but think they do. Pretty common in the gun store world.
 

gamecock257

Skid Plates
Location
Clinton, SC
I'm probably gonna leave the stock PSA trigger in it for now. I may look into a better trigger down the line. But I like single stage and this isn't a precision build.

Gonna be putting a mid length upper with a light weight free float rail on it eventually. And run an aim point red dot. Will be a CQB type rifle that I could use in a SHTF situation. But mainly it's just to have fun with.
 

jmnielsen

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Lincoln, NE
If you ever decide to upgrade triggers I can recommend the Geissele SSA. It's freaking amazing! That or the Geissele G2S, basically an SSA but without the laser etching and extra testing making it cheaper.
 
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