Best CV's ?

granitex

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
Columbus OH
OEM originals are going to be your best, but in all actuality being locked up front is what is adding to the stress.

I normally keep two of them as spares when I go out. Anymore I can change one in the driveway in about 30-45 min. depending on how hot it is outside. And weather I need to do a brake job while I am in there.
 

Gravity

Test Drive
Location
Desert
How often do you guys go through CVs, and how much are you lifted? I have a Lokka that I plan on installing along with the diff-drop bushings (I'm only lifted 1.5") and want to know what to expect. I knew I'd go through CVs, but I was hoping it wasn't going to be too bad. I figured one spare set of CVs would keep me ready for at least a couple years. Any reassurances or is this going to be something I need to be ready to repair a whole hell of a lot?
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I was running a full 3" lift in the front and even cranked a little higher so it was almost level with the back. No diff drop.

That said, I wasn't locked in the front, but I never broke a CV on 33s and I don't take it easy.
 

granitex

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
Columbus OH
I end up tearing boots, not actually breaking the cv itself. That being said I am running 33's with a three inch suspension lift. A lot of it comes down to your driving style and conditions. If you are a friction wheeler instead of a traction wheeler you will break more stuff, without question. When you go from no traction to all traction that is a huge shock load going through the system.

I have just been getting the advance auto ones with the lifetime, I don't even spend the time rebuilding them any more. They have always had one or two for me the next day so I just call ahead and swap them out.
 

Bklyn.X

Skid Plates
Moderator
Supporting Member
Founding Member
Location
Brooklyn, NY
I've broken a CV on the trail more times than I care to remember. I bring two spares with me every time I wheel anyplace besides sand (never broke one on the beach). I've had a cheap Chinese made one blow up in the hub taking out one of my beautiful hard to find Hard Body Manual hubs and the spindle. Last year I had one take out the needle bearing. Long trail fix yo and I now carry a spare.
I've changed so many on many different 1st gens that my friend Dave and I were able to change one on Misha's truck in twenty minutes!
I drive a 2001, lifted, locked front and back, diff drop.
OEM is normally better than after market although you can get lucky and find a rebuilt one at your local auto parts store. I believe Nissan warranties theirs for one year after purchase but they are pricey.
 
Last edited:

Gravity

Test Drive
Location
Desert
I was running a full 3" lift in the front and even cranked a little higher so it was almost level with the back. No diff drop.

That said, I wasn't locked in the front, but I never broke a CV on 33s and I don't take it easy.

So you basically have a 4" lift in the front and have no troubles with CVs? I had a mechanic telling me that my 1.5" lift was causing my CVs to bind and cutting my boots and I shouldn't be using my 4wd. Anyone else run into a mechanic saying this crap? I've seen the kind of rigs the community runs and I was super skeptical, but with what you said above, there's NO WAY my 1.5" lift (actually a 1" since my rear bumper pulled everything down and I re-adjusted for proper rake) is tearing my CVs up. They said that with the hubs locked in in front, up on jack stands, they couldn't spin the wheel and it was because the CVs were bound up and couldn't turn. While maybe they couldn't turn it by hand, does their explanation of the CVs being bound smell like BS to everyone else?
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Yeah I used to run close to 4" in the front and never had any problems. As granite said, traction is your friend.

That all sounds like BS.
 

granitex

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
Columbus OH
That mechanic is a moron, no two ways about it. Find a new one because either he just does not know what he is doing, does not want to do the work, or is just plain talking out of his ass. Regardless you need another mechanic that you can trust.

There are like four people who I would trust to wrench on my truck. They are all on this site, and all have a proven track record. The fact that three of them are in Colorado and I have never asked for them to do anything puts a lot more pressure on myself and the one nissan master tech here to do it all.

Find one that you can trust and talk to, I met my most trusted one when he was replacing my tranny, some of you might know him as the guy that won the white knuckle a few years in a row.
 
Top