1st Gen. Exhaust options

[Prime]

Don't believe so. Tis where I ordered the Headers from....and I did a pretty exhaustive search of the site.

 

[KChurch86]

Don't believe so. Tis where I ordered the Headers from....and I did a pretty exhaustive search of the site.

I see what you did there...

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Prime]

Okay, so I talked to a legit exhaust shop. Not some mechanic shop that has a pipe bender, but a guy that does exhaust for a living. The volume of air that is moved by the engine is not in any way limited by the size of the factory mid pipes. Simply getting rid of the first cat and doing long tube headers will see way more of a benefit than redoing the entire midpipe assy in 2.5" pipe. So based on that, I've ordered a factory Y-Pipe (amazon...$60) and when I get paid next I'm going to get the off the shelf direct fit mid pipes. Because doing it that way is going to save me about $250 vs having all the pipes custom built and having the cats custom fitted under the truck. So Since my headers are in and I have the muffler, as soon as the Y-Pipe gets here and I order the mid pipes, I'm getting it all done.

DT headers
factory spec Mid & Y-Pipe
2.5" Borla Muffler and custom pipe
Borla "Intercooled" exhaust tip

That'll be it for now.

 

[Kuzmovka]

I just unbolted mine at the Y pipe, just like you do with a catback. I kept all the pieces and parts and can bolt it back up whenever I so choose. It sounds pretty awesome, absolutely no restriction from mufflers and piping and crap, just the 4 cats and the Y pipe. So I actually have an exhaust dump underneath my drivers seat.

 

[Roadwarrior]

I'd like a new exhaust, but that's far down the pipeline.

See what I did there?

But in all honesty, I don't want much louder, maybe a little just a bit more "throat" to it.

 

[Prime]

I wish I'd only have to want a new exhaust. If that was the case I wouldn't be doing it. It's a need. Mine is trashed.

 

[Clayboy]

im getting 2.5 inch mandrell bent exhast ran from the cats back, brand new piping from the tip of the cats, into a Y, then run right out the back like the stock does, but right befor it turns left like the stock piping does, im going to run it right out the back. i talked to a muffler shop here in knoxville, they know what there doing, very repuatable, and im going to have them do the piping saturday,and when i get some cash flow in, they are gonna custom fit the metal mulisha dual exhaust made for the jeep JK into the back of my xterra. the muffer will sit where the spare tire used to, its like a split muffler i think they call it, but basically, the way the 3.6 sounds with that exhaust, theres no way the xterra will sound BAD with this setup.

im going from a sawzalled off muffler to a full custom 2.5 so i hope to see a difference.. ill post up a video when its done!

 

[Edodrian]

But in all honesty, I don't want much louder, maybe a little just a bit more "throat" to it.

2.25 - 2.5" pipe cats back into something known for a throaty sound. Magnaflows seem to sound good. Borla has a good tone too. Any chambered muffler will let the 3.3L sound a bit more throaty. Just be prepared for the rasp it has too.

When I ran true dual out the back I lost a noticeable part of my bottom end power.

Sent from my SPH-L720

 

[KChurch86]

So this is a direct copy-paste from my ongoing thread documenting my current troubles. If you haven't been following along, basically I've found out that my catalytic converters are clogged. Not sure if it's primary or secondary that are fouled, not sure if it matters. Either way, my truck needs cats. As I'm sure you may know, OE-style cats are expensive, especially the primary ones. Here's what I'm thinking about doing, to fix the problem and gain some HP and torque, and save money for the future:


So, from RuggedRocks, I'll get a pair of these:

$456.95


And from 4x4Parts I'll get:

A pair of these:

$80


A set of these:

$27


A set of these:

$26


A set of these:

$39.95


A pair of these:

$8.50


And a pair of these?:

$199.90


Bringing my total to:

$838.30

Not too bad I guess, considering the cost of a full set of all 4 catalytic converters.

Am I forgetting anything? O2 sensors, right? How many would I need with this set up?

 

[KChurch86]

I should mention that I just installed an OEM y-pipe and the hanger pipe after it as well.

 

[CrazySteve911]

You have inspection up in Mass? If so you have to get some O2's. I believe you only need 2. One for the beginning of each Y-Pipe. I may be wrong though. I'm taking out all of that gunk soon, as SC has no inspection.

 

[KChurch86]

You have inspection up in Mass? If so you have to get some O2's. I believe you only need 2. One for the beginning of each Y-Pipe. I may be wrong though. I'm taking out all of that gunk soon, as SC has no inspection.

I do have inspection, but the only emissions testing they do now is based on whether or not there's a CEL on in the dash. They used to use the sniffer to detect high exhaust gas levels, but they don't do it that way anymore.

 

[CrazySteve911]

I do have inspection, but the only emissions testing they do now is based on whether or not there's a CEL on in the dash. They used to use the sniffer to detect high exhaust gas levels, but they don't do it that way anymore.

Okay okay, and you got the CEL eleminators right?

Alright, just looked it up and you need 4 02 Sensors for a stock exhuast, my bad for the false hope ahaha. I honestly dont know how many youd need for that setup.

 

[dhyde79]

"CEL eliminators" aka electrical tape...

 

[CrazySteve911]

"CEL eliminators" aka electrical tape...

I have never heard that before. That's hilariously cheap.

 

[Edodrian]

If your running cats on both sides you shouldn't need CEL eliminators. If u run the front two before cats and rear after cats... thats the whole point behind the rear o2 sensors. They make sure the cats are doing thier jobs.

Sent from my SPH-L720

 

[dhyde79]

If your running cats on both sides you shouldn't need CEL eliminators. If u run the front two before cats and rear after cats... thats the whole point behind the rear o2 sensors. They make sure the cats are doing thier jobs.

Sent from my SPH-L720

Or, you can get CEL eliminators and take the cats out completely...just saying...

 

[Muadeeb]

If your running cats on both sides you shouldn't need CEL eliminators. If u run the front two before cats and rear after cats... thats the whole point behind the rear o2 sensors. They make sure the cats are doing thier jobs.

Sent from my SPH-L720

2x you said you're getting a pair of cats, so no CELs are needed. The stock setup is manifold / sensor 1 / cat / sensor 2 / 'cat'. You're replacing all but the last component, so just extend the wiring and done.

Sent via wild ferrets on crack

 

[Prime]

See responses in line. As I'm currently playing the same game.

So, from RuggedRocks, I'll get a pair of these:

$456.95

Or from ORPP. Whichever has them in stock.

And from 4x4Parts I'll get:

A pair of these:

$80

Instead go for the ones on bigdaddiesgarage.com. They're stainless steel and $20 cheaper overall.

A set of these:

$27

Check the stealership for these. Can usually be had for the same or less money and no shipping time/cost.

A set of these:

$26

AutoZone. FelPro. $18

A set of these:

$39.95

Stealership again. I think I paid $28 for all of the studs and nuts.

A pair of these:

$8.50

Again. AutoZone. $3 each

And a pair of these?:

$199.90

Did you account for custom metal work to get those cats in there? You can buy straight hi flow cats for $60 each. But you still have to have the plumbing custom including a bung for an O2 sensor in the mid pipes. I ran into the same math and found it would be cheaper In the long run to get the pre-made PaceSetter mid pipes that had cats in them and just bolt the stuff together.

Bringing my total to:

$838.30

Not too bad I guess, considering the cost of a full set of all 4 catalytic converters.

Am I forgetting anything? O2 sensors, right? How many would I need with this set up?

By going to the DT headers you are eliminating the first cat. So yous only be left with the ones in the mid pipes. Which may not do well enough on their own and cause a CEL (or MIL for Malfunction Indicated light). That's where the eliminators come in as an insurance against a light.

There are 4 O2 sensors. Two immediately before the first cat and two more in the mid pipes. Before you drop $180 more on replacing them, do the exhaust system and see if they even need replacing.

Also of note, the DT headers come with collector bolts to bolt to the mid pipes.

Pulling the studs and installing the new studs requires a female Torx socket. An 8mm is a close fit, but there us stripping danger. It took me 30 minutes at Sears to find the right tool. I didn't even know there was such a thing.

Also, if you don't have the CA emissions package, you'll need a 12mm Allen Wrench to install the EGR plug into the drivers side header. That was hard to find as well.

I plan to do a full writeup on installing g everything next weekend.

 

[DC xterra]

my exhaust sounds like crap now it dosnt rumble it just spits and whistles like theres air leaks after i got the headers installed, and i have new o2 sensors in the headers what did you use the eliminator for and did you get a custom exhaust or are you running stock? mine is stock and i hate the way my x sounds now.

 

[KChurch86]

Thanks for the replies everyone. So Prime, if I'm thinking correctly, I can get all those parts I linked, be it from a local source or online supplier, I can get OEM-style secondary cats instead of those high-flow cats, and it'll be a bolt-together system without the need for custom plumbing?

As far as I know I don't have the CA emissions package so I'd have to source a plug (how can I tell? VIN lookup? Door jamb sticker?) and it wouldn't hurt to install the CEL Eliminators to be sure I didn't throw a light.

I'd rather run cats than no cats, and being in Massachusetts I cannot have a CEL on when it's inspection time.

Am I seeing this correctly?

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Prime]

The DT headers comes with the EGR plug. You just need a 12mm Allen Wrench to screw it in. On the drivers side factory manifold you'll either have a hose or a giant bolt right in the top. If you have the bolt then you don't have the CA emissions package. And yeah, if you get direct fit secondary cats it'll be a bolt on affair.

 

[KChurch86]

The DT headers comes with the EGR plug. You just need a 12mm Allen Wrench to screw it in. On the drivers side factory manifold you'll either have a hose or a giant bolt right in the top. If you have the bolt then you don't have the CA emissions package. And yeah, if you get direct fit secondary cats it'll be a bolt on affair.

Right right, that's what I meant, sorry. I'll check on the bolt. I don't think I have it.

Thanks again, this is a huge help.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[dhyde79]

Thanks for the replies everyone. So Prime, if I'm thinking correctly, I can get all those parts I linked, be it from a local source or online supplier, I can get OEM-style secondary cats instead of those high-flow cats, and it'll be a bolt-together system without the need for custom plumbing?

As far as I know I don't have the CA emissions package so I'd have to source a plug (how can I tell? VIN lookup? Door jamb sticker?) and it wouldn't hurt to install the CEL Eliminators to be sure I didn't throw a light.

I'd rather run cats than no cats, and being in Massachusetts I cannot have a CEL on when it's inspection time.

Am I seeing this correctly?

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

Am I the only one thinking it? Get cel eliminators, delete all of the cats? Humor me, why do you want to run cats, it creates more pressure and costs you power....

 

[Prime]

Because I have to pass a state inspection and while they don't do a sniffer test, when they look under the truck and see no cats it's an automatic fail.

 

[KChurch86]

Am I the only one thinking it? Get cel eliminators, delete all of the cats? Humor me, why do you want to run cats, it creates more pressure and costs you power....

Because I have to pass a state inspection and while they don't do a sniffer test, when they look under the truck and see no cats it's an automatic fail.

Same here. That's why I was thinking that the high-flow cats would help save some of the power that the OE-style cats take away, but I'm not in a position right now to have custom piping done. I've been without my truck for almost a full month now and have paid far more money trying to get it back on the road than I can handle; so custom isn't an option - I just need my truck back.

EDIT: Figured I'd just add to this existing post...


So I'm about to jump on it and order the headers from whoever has them in stock, either ORPP or RR. Then, once I know somebody's got them in stock and I can order them, I'll order the OE-style secondary cats from PaceSetter that Prime linked me to, as they're having a "today only new customer" sale that knocks 15% off the order with free shipping...amazing timing there.

Then I'll pick up block-to-header gaskets and lower crush gaskets at AutoZone, studs and nuts from the dealership, and a pair of the stainless steel CEL eliminators to be good and sure I don't throw a code.

I'll also track down a 12mm allen key and a Torx socket for the studs - anybody know what size?

Sidenote: Those of you that have headers, how difficult was it to remove the old exhaust studs from the block? My greatest fear is that they'll break...

 

[Prime]

I'll check the size on the Torx socket when I get home tonight. I had to buy a whole kit in order to get it.

 

[gots_a_sol]

It is an E10.


I was eyeing my exhaust manifolds today (have heads off the truck right now, plus they are cracked and need replaced anyway) and it looks like if someone wanted to be a super cheap ass/in a pinch, the studs/nuts that attach the main cat to the manifold are the same as the short studs you need for headers.

 

[KChurch86]

Those of you with the DT headers:

Did you have any issues with the EGR tube not fitting correctly? Seems to me like the bung in the headers isn't deep enough to accept the EGR tube. Modification to my EGR tube was necessary...

...and when the modification got all screwy, replacement was necessary. I ordered 2 more EGR tubes in case the 2nd round of modification doesn't go as planned. We'll be cutting one of the new tubes in half, and then cutting a section out of my original tube to weld in between the halves of the new one.

EDIT: I should note, that not only is the bung on the header not deep enough to accept the EGR tube, it's not even tall enough to reach the tube. I considered just blocking off the EGR system all-together and installing the included EGR bung seal, but doing so would cause my CEL/SES light(s) to come on which would be an automatic fail here in Massachusetts...which means I need to find a way to make the EGR tube work.

 

[Collin]

Replaced the restrictive, cheap muffler with an 18 inch cherrybomb glasspack. Spent about $70 for muffler and install, great sound for the price!

 

[KChurch86]

Just popped back in here to re-read some posts and get ideas, I'll be re-doing the tail end of my exhaust soon and probably replacing the Super 44 with something more light weight and a bit quieter.

Upon reading these old posts, I gotta ask: You guys that run with your exhaust cut off at various points, how does your truck even run? I had to drive home the other day after the back of my exhaust fell off after the y-pipe and I had like, no power. Acceleration was abysmal, maintaining speed took far more throttle than usual, it was completely gutless.

Sent while mobile

 

[diablo3662]

I'm planning on going Gibson Stainless and AC short headers .. And I have the AEM Brute force CAI getting that on Tuesday

 

[diablo3662]

I'm wanting to go with Gibson exhaust and Ac's headers.. On my 2004 X which headers work best short or long ? And is that a good exhaust system ?

 

[Xaggerated]

I'm running DT headers and then custom dual straight pipes from the headers back. Thing is LOUD... will add a video when I get a better one

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[Gen X]

See responses in line. As I'm currently playing the same game.



Or from ORPP. Whichever has them in stock.



Instead go for the ones on bigdaddiesgarage.com. They're stainless steel and $20 cheaper overall.



Check the stealership for these. Can usually be had for the same or less money and no shipping time/cost.



AutoZone. FelPro. $18



Stealership again. I think I paid $28 for all of the studs and nuts.



Again. AutoZone. $3 each



Did you account for custom metal work to get those cats in there? You can buy straight hi flow cats for $60 each. But you still have to have the plumbing custom including a bung for an O2 sensor in the mid pipes. I ran into the same math and found it would be cheaper In the long run to get the pre-made PaceSetter mid pipes that had cats in them and just bolt the stuff together.



By going to the DT headers you are eliminating the first cat. So yous only be left with the ones in the mid pipes. Which may not do well enough on their own and cause a CEL (or MIL for Malfunction Indicated light). That's where the eliminators come in as an insurance against a light.

There are 4 O2 sensors. Two immediately before the first cat and two more in the mid pipes. Before you drop $180 more on replacing them, do the exhaust system and see if they even need replacing.

Also of note, the DT headers come with collector bolts to bolt to the mid pipes.

Pulling the studs and installing the new studs requires a female Torx socket. An 8mm is a close fit, but there us stripping danger. It took me 30 minutes at Sears to find the right tool. I didn't even know there was such a thing.

Also, if you don't have the CA emissions package, you'll need a 12mm Allen Wrench to install the EGR plug into the drivers side header. That was hard to find as well.

I plan to do a full writeup on installing g everything next weekend.

Apologies for resurrecting this one, but I couldn't find the write-up. I'm going this route as well as my front cats are bad. I had some questions on the parts. Do I need the new studs and nuts in the above part list? Are the stock ones sufficient as long as they don't break on removal of the old headers? Also, where do the CEL eliminators get installed? Are they placed in the O2 bungs in the DT headers or attached to the sensors after where the primary cats would be?

 

[Muadeeb]

Studs and nuts are recommended. Partly because they can break on removal, and partly because the DT headers only need short studs, not long ones.

Front O2 sensor goes in the header, rear one goes in the CEL somewhere after the front. Distance between the two really doesn't matter.

 

[Prime]

Correct. You don't need to replace ALLLLL the studs. But I'd get enough to do it. The stock manifolds use long and short studs. The headers need only short studs. And I just like new stuff when putting in exhaust. When I did mine all but two came out of the head when I was trying to get the nuts off. So it only makes sense to put new stuff back in.

Speaking of the studs, make sure you get an E10 socket (external torx) that fits the studs for easy removal.

 

[Gen X]

Thanks for the info, gotta get the parts ordered and get this done. Soon hopefully.

 

[Gen X]

Only missing item is a case of your favorite grown up soda. Gonna give it a go this weekend. Now don't be upset, these aren't Thorleys or ACs. After a week of soaking, torching, and tugging, I couldn't get the O2 sensors out of the secondary cats. Plus, the cats are a bit rough anyway. So, decided to replace them with new sensors. The budget had to flex. The headers are some eBay specials but should be better than stock and at least they delete my shot front cats. Hopefully everything comes out easily this weekend.

A couple concerns...the new O2 sensors look short. I hope it's just appearances and they're long enough. Also, looks as though the passenger side upstream O2 sensor gets moved a bit down the line. I think i'll need to splice in some wire to lengthen it out. Have others had to do this or is the stock length enough? Last, the items came with all the gaskets. I got the round crush gaskets and the triangle shaped gaskets that go between the headers and the cats. Do I put them both in?

 

[Prime]

I had to extend one of my O2 sensor wires when I did the DT headers. Just do it w/ solder and not a crimp connection. And keep it as short as possible. The circuit will read a bit of extra resistance which could trip a CEL.

Throw those gaskets in the garbage and go get you some FelPro gaskets. Lastly, don't use that hardware either. Swing by a dealership and get all new OEM studs and nuts. You need an E10 (external Torx) to remove the old studs and secure the new ones. Some will come out when you try to break the nuts loose. That's ok. Just put all new ones in. You'll be happy you did vs that cheap garbage.