1st Gen Brake Upgrade Megathread

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I think this is something we need.

This post will serve as a reference for anyone looking for brake upgrade information. I'll be linking to other threads where relevant as well as posting upgrade info to this thread.

If any SAS guys want to bring threads to my attention that are brake related, I'll add them in.

Front upgrades

Easy one is slotted rotors in the front. The rotors are already 11.14 inches in diameter. Which is plenty big enough to stop the truck. The reason for slotted rotors is that it allows the easier expulsion of heat and gasses produced by braking. So if you have to brake hard it allows the for less brake fade. There are also cross drilled options which puts little holes through the rotor, but to me those little holes are just something to fill with mud when wheeling. Then they're serving no purpose.

Front Xterra slotted rotors
- There are two different parts. Specific ones for left and right.
- Source: Rock Auto
- P/N: 12642063SL & 12642063SR
- Cost: $65.97 Each

We already have dual piston calipers. But, what if you want more stopping power?

96-04 Pathys have a 12" rotor and the same dual piston caliper. So that kind of move would necessitate 16" or larger wheels, but that may also be an option. Larger rotor == more stopping force.

The Z32 had a 4 piston caliper and almost identical rotor dimensions. I'm currently looking around to see the potential of a caliper upgrade. More pistons == more clamping force. If those calipers will work, they'd still fit under 15" wheels. I'll be ordering one of these soon and we'll see if they fit.

Another easy upgrade is stainless steel lines. The steel webbing over the rubber line prevents expansion of the line and ensures that all of the hydraulic pressure makes it to the actual brakes. The kit linked below covers the stock setup on the X. The longer rear line is required for anyone with a full 3" suspension lift in the rear and suggested for anyone with a PML using longer shackles.

IFS Xterra Stainless steel lines
- Source: 4x4Parts
- P/N: APSB00022
- Cost: $87.50
- Link

The picture just shows the rear line but the description reads all three w/ suspension lift. Thanks to SRStaff for pointing that out.
_____________________________________

Rear Pathy disc upgrade

I've made a How-to thread for the swap. It can be found here -> Pathfinder Disc Brake Swap How-To

This thread will include a full parts list and instructions on the swap. It's an involved process requiring special tools and some mechanical know-how.

______________________________________

Master Cylinder Upgrade

This one comes from the SAS side of things.

Credit to Jbat for the information.

1999 Dodge RAM 1500 master cylinder. Same bolt configuration, requires two line adapters, has a 1¼" bore, and larger reservoir. Stock X master cylinder only has a 1" bore. The larger bore pushes more fluid down the lines. Also, on the front brake line you will need a m10x1.0 bubble flare to m10x1.0 inverted flare adapter and on the rear brake line you will need a m12x1.0 bubble flare to m10x1.0 inverted flare adapter. Alternatively, you can cut and reflare with the appropriate flare nuts (if you're so inclined).

With going to rear disc, this may be a good upgrade as well and I will investigate further.

Part Specifics
99 Dodge RAM 1500 master cylinder
- Source: Rock Auto
- P/N: DORMAN M390426
- Cost: $40.79
 
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NismoFire

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Smyrna, TN
Tag.


I chew through brake pads like nobody's business for some reason. Could be because I can't keep my foot out of it so downshifting isn't enough, could also be because I can't afford EBC brakes.





Oh haaaaaaaiiiiii.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
That could be because your drums are not properly adjusted. If they're not doing their share of the stopping the fronts will wear faster.

Also, haii
 

KChurch86

Banned
Founding Member
Sub'd. I love this thread idea.

I read through a very detailed how-to on the Pathy rear disc swap a long time ago and it really peaked my interest. Not necessarily something I'd do (can't afford it, don't have access to the necessary tools, just don't need it) but it was definitely a great read and got my gears turning.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
It's not expensive. Junk yard axles, bolts, & brackets. rock auto for calipers and rotors.

Past that, some pressing and bam. Done.
 

Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
Stainless steel lines.
This is a simple no brainer bolt on. One problem. Can't find lines for the front. Someone has to have a source. I've checked the big 3 sites and of course there's the one for the rear frame to axle, but nothing for the front. What gives?

http://www.redline360.com/goodridge-stainless-brake-lines-xterra-22113



Some earlier Pathy trucks had dual piston calipers. So I'm looking at that as a possibility. Also, I found a guy that makes adapter kits to put Z32 front brakes on a hardbody. Since our set up is essentially identical, I'm talking to him to see if they'll work on a 4wd axle.

I believe we are currently using dual piston calipers on the front. Regarding the Z31 no way no how unless 2wd.




It's not expensive. Junk yard axles, bolts, & brackets. rock auto for calipers and rotors.

Past that, some pressing and bam. Done.

Yeah, that plus plumbing lines and fabricating a parking brake setup. Fairly easy though NissanNut outlines it well. http://nissannut.com/projects/H233b_disc_brakes/


I know my brakes suck but it's mostly the rear I feel not really adding to the braking. If I lock them up the front will lock solid and the rear will just keep on rolling. Could be the weight transfer, could be the added weight from my armor, could be the large tires I fitted, could be the aging brake adjusters not adjusting. Multiple factors that I think would be improved with rear disks. I've just never run across one in a savage yard, pathys all around here seem to be fitted with drums.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent

Hallelujah!


I believe we are currently using dual piston calipers on the front. Regarding the Z31 no way no how unless 2wd.

Lemme dig the link out so you can have a look. He was fabricating brackets to go inside z32 rotors that still have the opening in the middle and looked spot on for the rotors that we're running now.

Yeah, that plus plumbing lines and fabricating a parking brake setup. Fairly easy though NissanNut outlines it well. http://nissannut.com/projects/H233b_disc_brakes/

No plumbing except cutting and reflaring the hard lines so that the bolt to the soft lines.

I know my brakes suck but it's mostly the rear I feel not really adding to the braking. If I lock them up the front will lock solid and the rear will just keep on rolling. Could be the weight transfer, could be the added weight from my armor, could be the large tires I fitted, could be the aging brake adjusters not adjusting. Multiple factors that I think would be improved with rear disks. I've just never run across one in a savage yard, pathys all around here seem to be fitted with drums.

That's the number one reason I want to do the disc swap. There's actually a complete 95 rear end on a truck at the junk yard right now. Thinking about heading over there tomorrow and getting the shafts out.
 

SRStaff

Bought an X
Location
Central Alabama
4x4 parts has all three SS braided lines. Go for around $88. Help someone do the rear Pathfinder disc brake setup. They held up well when we tested them(35 degree decline).
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
OK...so the more I look at this, the more it seems like I just need the calipers. The rotors in that vs what we carry stock is virtually the same spec. And his "adapters" are simply doing the same thing that the hub assembly does on our truck. Its built to put the hardbody rotors on a D21 pickup. Which has a different setup.

The difference would be the 4-pot Z Calipers. If they bolt up to our knuckle, that'd be a HUGE upgrade in stopping power over the two piston we have now. I might have to invest in one and find out.
 

Mirage

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Founding Member
Location
Greenville SC
I thought about this a bunch last year, all I remember at the moment is I wanted to try '00-02 qx4 rotors with the R33 GTS-T calipers (same as the Z caliper just uses a 296mm rotor versus 280mm for the z32) I have on the 240. Most nissan calipers will interchange chassis to chassis, they have the same mounting ears, its just a matter of getting the rotor diameter and offset right. Getting the offset right with Z32 calipers would be the issue with the trucks as far as getting an off the shelf rotor to work since we have that completely different hub setup. I remember the qx4 rotor was very close looking at numbers and bolts to the hub like our trucks, so I wanted to give it a whirl while the car is down and I can take the calipers off. Maybe I should get off my butt and try.

edit: your line of thinking with that maybe the z32 caliper will bolt right up might actually work, i was looking for ~296mm diameter rotors, but the Z32 being smaller may just fit our trucks rotors.
edit 2: stock rotor 11.1" = 281.94mm, if it doesn't fit it would be very close, nothing a lathe couldn't knock out, so if the rotor offset worked you would be good to go.
 
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Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
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Location
Denver Adjacent
Stock on the X is 280 from what I can find. The z32 was 281. The only other difference is a 30mm width vs the X at 28mm. So as long as the alignment is good and I source the 30mm calipers (as the other is 26mm) it should be rock and roll.
 

Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
Stock xterra is 283mm but should be close enough.
15226750030_4e2ea3b8e0_b_zps9sqxdgcx.jpg


One of the issues is the min spec for the Z32 disk is 28mm. So the caliper maybe at its max while on a new Xterra rotor. It's hard to say how it would react.

Link to Z32 rotor
http://brembo.mycarparts.net/products/Brembo-09593110?product_application_id=6685140051
 
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Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Which version of the z32 rotor is that link for? Because they had a 26mm caliper and a 30mm caliper. With the width of the X rotor, I'm thinking the 30mm would be the one to get.
 

Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
Z32 rotor link I posted was 30mm wide.

Interestingly though if you dig into that 300zx brake upgrade thread you posted. Every one says to use the 26mm versions. They are using the Hardbody V6 rotors the same ones we are using.

It makes sense as Xterra rotors can be cut to a 26mm width if necessary as 26mm is the minimum width.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I was looking at the specs for the rotors that the guy was using and they were 87 hardbody rotors. And they are a little smaller. 276mm diameter w/ 26mm width. Which necessitated the 26mm Z calipers. Since the X rotors are at 28mm it makes sense to use the 30mm Z calipers, yes?
 

Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
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SRStaff

Bought an X
Location
Central Alabama
That was the very easy part. The rest can be a pain swapping over without the right tools. A hydraulic press is your friend. Did it without and it was a pain. Looks damn good behind the wheel when you are done though.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Yeah, I'm gonna pick up a press next week. I'm also thinking about getting a set of Xterra shafts too so I can do all the prep before even disassembling my truck.
 

SRStaff

Bought an X
Location
Central Alabama
Not a bad idea with the extra 33 spline shafts. There is not tool cheaply available for the nut against the bearing on the inboard side of the axle holding it all in place.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Yeah. I was wondering if that had to be threaded off or what. That's a bizarre looking nut. Customer of mine owns a dealership, so I might be able to get something.
 

SRStaff

Bought an X
Location
Central Alabama
The good thing is that you are planning it out to get everything to work before doing it. Much better job than most people. The e-brake setup will have to be altered for it to work for the rear discs also. My buddy did not set his e-brake up yet since his is still rusted in place and useless as is. Have not really looked at the routing differences for the e-brake cables between the two setups.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I've got my dealership contact looking to see if they have the two special tools that the FSM lists for the bearing and nut removal. Hopefully that comes through and my life will get easier.
 

J Everett

Suspension Lift
Founding Member
Location
Houma, LA
Even though I gain nothing from any of this, it's still a very interesting thread. I'm anxiously awaiting the conclusion!
 
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